IMAGES OF SANGALAKI: GREEN TURTLES AND MANTA RAYS

Adventure diving in the Celebes Sea

Tuesday 10th September - Friday 20th September 2002 (11 days)

Leader: Malcolm Hey

Group size limit: 12 divers plus leader

Few dive locations can offer more than one major attraction, yet still be left alone by the diving masses. Sangalaki, however, with its reliable Manta Rays and profuse population of Green Turtles, fits this description accurately. Approximately two degrees north of the equator, off the northeast coast of the Indonesian state of Kalimantan (Borneo), lies the small, remote and unspoilt island of Sangalaki. Not surprisingly, 'Sangalaki', when translated from the local language, means 'male manta', for the waters around the island are feeding and breeding grounds for Manta Rays and sightings are a daily phenomenon. It is to dive with the Manta Rays that is our main objective on this adventurous tour, which is suitable for underwater photographers, videographers and those who simply wish to enjoy the manta meetings. This will be Malcolm Hey's third visit to Sangalaki. Due to its remote location and lack of non-diving amenities this trip is not suitable for non-divers, unless they are content with simple accommodation and a beach.

The white sandy beach that encircles the island of Sangalaki is criss-crossed with distinctive trails, tell-tale signs of turtles seeking their nesting place. Sangalaki has one of the largest breeding populations of Green Turtles still in existence and between 40 and 50 Green Turtles swim ashore here on the high tide each night to dig their nests and lay their eggs in the soft sand.

Just a 20-minutes boat ride away the ancient volcanic ring of Kakaban Island encloses a land-locked saltwater lake, similar to its better known, fresh-water counterpart in Palau. The mangrove-edged lake is home to four different species of stingless jellyfish, including one that swims upside down.

The 30 densely-forested acres of Sangalaki Island are surrounded by a strip of soft white sand strewn with logs and fallen trees washed ashore over many years. It takes just 25 minutes to walk round the shoreline at a leisurely pace during which one is likely to encounter some of the island's land-based wildlife such as monitor lizards that can grow up to a metre in length. Uninhabited, apart from guests and staff at the dive lodge and an enclave of half a dozen turtle-egg collectors, it is an idyllic, timeless, Robinson Crusoe-like island.

Everything on Sangalaki is done at a leisurely pace. Time will wait for everyone. Typically, breakfast is served when everyone gets up. The first dive is when everyone is ready. The second dive is after the first one and the third dive is later in the day. It does pan out to a sort of time schedule, with lunch being taken between the second and third dives. What a way to live. What a way to dive!

A sand ridge and shallow reef extend out to 600 metres or so from the shoreline, with only one entrance channel through the reef. At low tide even the channel dries out, which does mean a bit of a walk to and from the boats during the low-tide phase. At high and mid-water tides the boat is able to get to within a few paces of the dive lodge.

Although Sangalaki offers a wide variety of diving, most visitors make the journey to dive with the Manta Rays, for which the diving here is famous. Along the north and east sides of the island they gather to feed. Dive sites are named appropriately and so you will dive sites such as Manta Run, Manta Parade and Manta Avenue, which are found along a sandy valley with gentle sand slopes interspersed with coral heads. Although Mother Nature's gifts can never be guaranteed, several Manta Ray sightings are generally made on every dive. Sometimes schools of 20 or 30 Manta Rays will be seen. Giants with 4-metre wingspans, some white-bellied, some black-bellied, feed near the surface in currents of about 1.5 knots, so to enjoy one's own personal 'manta show' there is rarely need to dive deeper than 5 metres! Each Manta Ray bears unique markings and can be easily identified by the keen and careful observer. When drifting along the valley keep a watch for the elegant shape of an inquisitive Leopard Shark or the characteristic silhouette of Green Turtles.

Lighthouse Reef on the island's eastern point provides a good afternoon dive in a barely noticeable current. A gentle sand slope with scattered coral heads harbours a good variety of marine life. One small bommie in particular attracts schools of silvery sweepers, four species of shrimps, leafish, nudibranchs in many colours and shapes, gently floating lionfish and discreetly coloured scorpionfish. It is all too easy to spend the entire dive on this one bommy!

Coral Gardens, close to the channel entrance at the south side of the island, is an extensive area of pristine hard corals of many varieties. This seems to be a favourite location for dozens of Green Turtles waiting to swim ashore before commencing their night's nesting duty.

Speed across to neighbouring Kakaban Island in the lodge's dive boat for a spectacular dive at high speed round Barracuda Point on the island's sheer outer wall. Here you will be well rewarded with beautiful soft corals, the awesome sight of myriads of blue tails belonging to Redtooth Triggerfish sticking out of the reef and a school of Chevron (or Blackfin) Barracudas out in the blue. After the exhilaration of the wall dive, step ashore for a picnic lunch before a climb up the rocky bank and a hike to the edge of Jellyfish Lake, a tricky but worthwhile 20-minute trek over sharp rocks. Snorkel around the mangrove roots lining the edge, which support algae, sponges, tube worms and tunicates, before heading out into the eerie green water of the lake. Jellyfish of four different species rise and fall through the green water column in what can best be described as jellyfish soup. Some divers here report that swimming leisurely amongst the pulsating bodies of the smooth jellyfish is a truly sensual experience that should not be missed! Be thankful that evolution has taken away their stinging capability!

Night diving is available, but evenings are also an opportunity to be close to nature and observe turtles nesting. With between 40 and 50 turtles coming ashore each night it is inevitable that many will haul themselves up the beach in front of the dive lodge. In the still of the evening, whilst relaxing on the lobby veranda, a rustling in the bushes along the edge of the beach will mark the arrival of a gravid turtle. Watch from a respectable distance as she labours for several hours digging her nest and egg chamber and depositing her clutch of eggs before covering them up and dragging her huge bulk back to the water.

Borneo Divers' Dive Lodge with its spacious lobby-cum-dining hall is, like the accommodation huts, built in traditional style from local timber. The 12 detached, twin-bedded huts each have a veranda, attached bathroom with tropical temperature shower and a ceiling fan. The buildings blend in unobstrusively with the environment and are set far enough back on the beach to give the turtles ample space and arranged so that gentle sea breezes cool each bungalow. Additional centralised toilets and showers have separate male and female rooms.

Breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and evening dinner of Indonesian cuisine are served buffet-style in the dining hall. Tea, coffee, fruit juice and water are available throughout the day.

Divers set up their gear before their first dive. Thereafter the dive staff load and unload on and off the boat, rinse the gear, fill the tanks and set up the gear for the following dives. Secure personal stowage is provided and separate rinsing tanks for diving and camera equipment are available.

Itinerary

Tuesday 10th September: Malaysia Airlines midday flight bound for Kuala Lumpur.

Wednesday 11th September: Morning arrival in Kuala Lumpur where we will connect with a Malaysia Airlines flight to Kota Kinabalu, arriving in the late morning. Transfer to the luxurious Shangri-La's Tanjung Aru Resort for an overnight stay.

Thursday 12th September: Morning departure on Malaysia Airlines flight to Tawau, connecting with an onwards flight to Tarakan in Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo)), arriving at midday. Depart from Tarakan harbour in the early afternoon. The boat journey to Sangalaki takes 3-4 hours. Late afternoon arrival on Sangalaki.

Friday 13th September - Tuesday 17th September: 3 boat dives daily including 1 trip to Kakaban Island for the Jelly Fish Lake dive.

Wednesday 18th September: Relax and dry out your gear before lunch, which will be served at noon. Afternoon boat transfer to Tarakan. Overnight at Tarakan Plaza Hotel.

Thursday 19th September: After breakfast we will depart from Tarakan Airport in time for the Malaysia Airlines morning flight to Kuala Lumpur via Tawau and Kota Kinabalu, connecting with the evening flight bound for London.

Friday 20th September: Morning arrival at London (Heathrow) Airport.

£1695 London/London

Includes:

· Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Kuala Lumpur/Kota Kinabalu/Tawau/Tarakan/Tawau/Kota Kinabalu/Kuala Lumpur/London (Heathrow) by Malaysia Airlines.

· Airport and hotel transfers.

· 1 night room-only accommodation at the luxurious Shangri-La's Tanjung Aru Resort, Kota Kinabalu on a twin/share basis.

· 6 nights full board accommodation at Borneo Diver's Dive Lodge, Sangalaki (excluding alcoholic and/or carbonated drinks) on a twin/share basis.

· 5 days diving (3 boat dives daily), cylinders and weights at Borneo Divers' Dive Lodge.

· 1 night room and breakfast at Tarakan Plaza Hotel on a twin/share basis.

· Services of Malcolm Hey as group leader.

Important: There is a free baggage allowance of 10 Kgs on the flights between Tawau and Tarakan. Excess baggage is currently charged at US $0.75 per kilogram.

Single Occupancy Supplement: £374. Please note that, while we will endeavour to find a room-mate for those on the expedition who are travelling alone and would prefer to share accommodation, in the event of a rom-mate not being available the single occupancy supplement will apply. Room-mates will be allocated on a first-come first served basis.

Deposit: £300

Staying on in Borneo: As the journey to and from Sangalaki involves passing through both Kota Kinabalu and Tawau in the Malaysian state of Sabah, why not combine this tour with a stay on famous Sipadan, at beautiful Water Village on Mabul, or on remote Layang Layang? Any length of stay is possible as flights back to London from Kota Kinabalu operate daily. For details of the fantastic diving and information about the accommodation on Sipadan, Mabul or Layang Layang, please see the relevant entries in this brochure. Contact our office for precise costings.