WEST PAPUA: THE RAJA AMPAT ARCHIPELAGO

A Seriously Remote Expedition

Friday 19th September ­ Saturday 4th October 2003 (16 days)

Leader: Malcolm Hey

Group size limit: 8 divers plus leader

West Papua, the western half of the Island of New Guinea, was until recently known as Irian Jaya. Its next door neighbour and much better known to divers, Papa New Guinea, is an independent country that occupies the eastern end of this massive island. The vast and rugged province of West Papua was perhaps the last of planet Earth's regions to remain untouched by civilization. Although the coastal areas and more populous highland areas have become more worldly, even today there are some tribal groups in the interior who fend off missionaries and government workers with spears, and even ritual cannibalism may still be practised.

We will fly into Sorong Airport which is situated on a small island separated from the mainland of the Vogelkop (or Bird's Head) Peninsula, West Papua's westernmost part. We will be met at the airport by Irian Diving representatives, our dive bags and camera gear will be stowed aboard their speedboats and we will head off in a northwesterly direction into the Raja Ampat archipelago and to the remote and uninhabited island of Kri. There can be few places in our oceans that have remained undiscovered by scuba divers, yet to all but a few adventurous travellers and liveaboard divers who have been lucky enough to call en passant, the Raja Ampat archipelago has been left virtually unexplored.

The island group's location enjoys plenty of shelter and we will be travelling at a time of year when both sea and weather conditions are expected to be favourable. During our extended stay with Irian Diving we will experience world class diving on reef slopes, ridges, coral gardens and wrecks. Marine life enthusiasts (fish-watchers in particular) and underwater photographers will be equally well pleased.

Sardine Reef, the photographers' favourite, and close by Cape Kri have coral bommies and slopes covered with soft coral, sea fans, sponges and crinoids. Here, as everywhere we dive, the corals are in pristine condition. Dr. Gerry Allen, author of over 25 marine life books, recorded 273 fish species during a single dive at Cape Kri. On his last visit to the area Malcolm Hey made a note that he had "never seen so many fish before". As many as two dozen sweetlips huddled together under a bommie, several species sharing the same shelter, schools of batfish, schools of fusiliers, schools of snappers, schools schools schools Along these reefs divers can expect to see wobbegong sharks sheltering in the many hidey-holes and sometimes resting in the open on dish corals.

Manta Reef is a regular feeding ground for Manta Rays. Although it can never be guaranteed, dozens of Manta Ray sightings are generally made on every dive. Giants with 4-metre wingspans, some white bellied, some black bellied, feed near the surface and cruise along the reef.

Nine aircraft were ditched around Wai Island during WWII, and several of the wrecks are now established dive sites. The P-47B 'Razorback' wreck, is intact and lies upright on the sloping reef at around 28 metres, nose pointing up the reef and propeller standing proud. The cockpit is open, allowing access, and all its machine guns, four in each wing, can be clearly seen.

After all the colourful reefs and abundance of fish we can have a muck dive! In just a few metres of water near the Old Jetty on Wai Island we will spend a happy hour or so amongst the sand, rubble and seagrass. Here we will find sea hares, Bamboo Sharks, several unusual species of urchin, cornetfish, Saddleback Anemonefish, Humpback Scorpionfish, mantis shrimp, upside-down jellyfish, and the rare double-ended pipefish, which is the same shade of green as the blade of seagrass it shadows.

As we speed across the sea we will keep a watch out for sargassum weed floating on the surface. Odds on when we do, we will find sargassum frogfish living amongst the weed. Even when resting from diving we can observe sea mammals. Spotted Eagle Rays have been known to swim in close to the shore in just a few feet of water. And dolphins and whales are occasionally spotted from the end of the jetty.

Vividly coloured parrots are frequently seen (and heard!) around the camp and whilst having dinner we are likely to be visited by a Spotted Cuscus. A friendly animal (a form of tree kangaroo) that lives in the wild, it regularly appears amongst the roof timbers looking down on guests knowing that its goo-goo eyes won't fail to attract attention and food handouts.

Night dives are available but compete with the temptation to join a sundowner soirée on the jetty. Sunsets are a real spectacle from Kri Island and the 140-metre long jetty must surely have been positioned to take full advantage of nature's wonder.

Saturday is a day of rest from diving and we will have the opportunity to join a bird watching trip. West Papua is noted for its rare and exotic birds including parrots, hornbills and some unique birds of paradise.

The Dive Resort has no pretensions of being a luxury dive resort but offers simple yet comfortable and spacious accommodation modified for use by Western guests. The simply furnished rooms are in traditional Papuan wooden huts with rattan roofs and elevated on stilts above the sea. 220 volts electric power sockets and a well-lit camera worktable are provided in each room. Papuan-type showers and western-style toilets are housed in open-air structures close by. The central concourse, again open and built traditionally, acts as bar, dining hall, kitchen and library.

Although planned primarily for photographers, the expedition will also appeal to other divers who enjoy observing marine life. This is a rare opportunity to join an expedition to explore this remote and exotic destination and enjoy world class diving. There will be no formal underwater photography teaching, but Malcolm Hey will be happy to pass on tips or discuss problems. The company of like-minded travellers and the rare opportunity to visit this seriously remote location are, perhaps, the best incentives for becoming an expedition member.

Itinerary

Friday 19th September: Singapore Airlines evening flight from London (Heathrow) bound for Singapore.

Saturday 20th September: Afternoon arrival in Singapore. Transfer to the Golden Landmark Hotel for an overnight stay.

Sunday 21st September: Morning departure on Silkair flight to Makassar, arriving later the same morning. Overnight in Makassar.

Monday 22nd September: Merpati morning flight bound for Sorong, arriving in the early afternoon. Transfer by boat to Kri Island (he boat journey takes one and a half hours) arriving at 1600.

Tuesday 23rd September-Friday 26th September: 3 boat dives and 1 night boat dive daily.

Saturday 27th September: Relax, overhaul your camera or take a nature trip to observe the island's wildlife.

Sunday 28th September-Thursday 2nd October: 3 boat dives and night boat dive on 2 evenings (with a half day of diving on the day before departure to allow 24 hours of no flying time).

Friday 3rd October: Return to Sorong Airport. Morning departure from Sorong to Singapore via Makassar with Merpati and Silkair. Afternoon arrival in Singapore. Evening departure on Singapore Airlines bound for London (Heathrow).

Saturday 4th October: Early morning arrival at London (Heathrow).

£2295 London/London

Includes:

· Scheduled flights London(Heathrow)/Singapore/Makassar/Sorong/Makassar/Singapore/London (Heathrow) by Singapore Airlines, Silkair and Merpati.

· Airport/hotel transfers.

· 1 night room-only accommodation at the Golden Landmark Hotel, Singapore on a twin/share basis.

· 1 night room-only accommodation at an hotel in Makassar on a twin/share basis.

· 11 nights full board accommodation at Irian Diving (excluding alcoholic and/or carbonated drinks) on a twin/share basis.

· 8 full days diving (3 day boat dives daily and 6 night dives), plus morning diving on the day before departure, cylinders and weights at Irian Diving.

· Services of Malcolm Hey as group leader.

Important: There is a free baggage allowance of only 10 Kgs on the flights between Makassar and Sorong. Excess baggage is currently charged at US $0.75 per kilogram.

Single Occupancy Supplement: £273. Please note that, while we will endeavour to find a room-mate for those on the expedition who are travelling alone and would prefer to share accommodation, in the event of a rom-mate not being available the single occupancy supplement will apply. Room-mates will be allocated on a first-come first served basis.

Deposit: £300