SECRETS OF BALI: A QUEST FOR DIVERSITY A QUEST FOR DIVERSITY SECRETS OF BALI: A QUEST FOR DIVERSITY

Enigmatic pelagics, rare creatures, abundant reef fish, a famous wreck and a marine biologist

Saturday 3rd September - Friday 16th September 2005 (16 days)

Leader: Alex Mustard

Group size 10 divers plus leader

The small, exotic island of Bali is world famous for its beautiful landscapes and rich cultural heritage, but its world class diving is a much better kept secret. Dive sites such the Tulamben Wreck have been rightly famous for years, and photographs taken here have filled many coffee-table books. Add to this some great 'small creature' dive sites (frequently referred to as 'muck diving' sites), discovered in the last couple of years, that rival the best in the world, and offshore reef dives that produce regular encounters with Manta Rays and, during September, the huge and bizarre Sunfish, or Mola mola , and in Bali we have a diversity of superb and recently discovered diving to rival anywhere in the world.

To take in all the characteristics of Balinese diving this group tour will take a circular route around Bali, staying at three locations from where we can explore a multitude of very different sites. New sites are being discovered on Bali all the time and we may modify this itinerary slightly to include the hottest dive sites of the moment.

Our starting point is hidden away on the northwest coast next to the Bali Barat National Park. From the first glimpse, through the trees of the mainland, it is clear that Menjangan Island is going to provide great diving. Steep craggy walls and grottoes dominate the reefs, which are draped in red, pink, orange and yellow sea fans. This environment is home to a profusion of all the usual tropical reef fish as well as turtles and the occasional reef shark. The dramatic scenery and good visibility make this an ideal location for wide angle and reef fish photography. For the dedicated macro enthusiast, or the keen fish watcher, this area is also home to pygmy seahorses: both the Barbiganti Pygmy Seahorse ( Hippocampus barbiganti) and an attractive, naked-looking variety known locally as the 'Plucked Chicken' pygmy seahorse (a type of H. denise )!

In stark contrast, while staying on the northwest coast, we can also access the shallow, sandy Gilimanuk or Secret Bay . Visibility is limited, and the topography flat and featureless, but don't be fooled into thinking that this means that the diving is not exciting. Secret Bay is famous with critter-hunting underwater photographers and fish watchers for turning up, on their first dive here, creatures that have eluded them for years. The flat, dark sandy seabed is home to a multitude of nudibranchs, seahorses, cuttlefish, octopuses (including the Mimic Octopus), ghost pipefish, frogfish, seamoths and scorpionfish. We will probably spend just one day exploring Secret Bay. Although it is a classic, more recently discovered sites are now rated even better and we know where they are!

Our next stop is Tulamben on the northeast coast of Bali. Here we are on the doorstep of what many proclaim as 'the best shore dive in the world', the Liberty Wreck . This picturesque wreck is covered in soft corals, seafans and a moving shroud of fish. Fish life on the Liberty is incredible in diversity and friendliness. For many photographers this site is known simply as the best place to photograph fish in Southeast Asia. There is everything from the large school of circling Bigeye Jacks to groupers, snappers and sweetlips, as well as all the typical smaller reef fish and a range of oddball critters. Have a look at Australian photographer Roger Steene's fantastic book Coral Reefs to get a flavour of the diversity found at Tulamben. This is one of those dives where photographers can never go in with the wrong lens (or enough film)!

Staying at Tulamben also provides us with the chance to sample several new 'critter diving' sites in the area. New sites are being discovered all the time and the very few photographers who have dived them come out of the water raving. At a newly discovered dive spot on the east coast it is quite common to see more than one species of Rhinopias (scorpionfish) on a dive as well as multiple ghost pipefish, frogfish and the fascinating boxer crab that holds stinging anemones in its claws to use for its protection. One new site here is phenomenal for nudibranchs: Australian photographer Michael Aw counted no less than 41 species on one afternoon dive, breaking his personal record of 28 previously set in Lembeh Strait! Another newly discovered dive site on the north coast is probably the best spot on Bali for both Mimic and Blue Ring Octopuses, but this site seethes with all the 'usual' species, such as seahorses, assorted scorpionfish (including Ambon Scorpionfish), frogfish and, of course, a multitude of invertebrates. Few dive outfits know this site since it has only been on the map since 2004!

Our final stop is Nusa Dua on the west side the island. Padang Bai and three small offshore islands, Tepekong and Mimpang and Biaha offer some of the most scenic diving in Bali. Reefs dominated by healthy corals are home to dense populations of all the familiar reef fish. Encounters with reef sharks are also common. The Padang Bai area also provides the chance to see more Rhinopias scorpionfish, Leaf Scorpionfish and the camouflaged Tasselled Wobbegong Shark hiding amongst the coral.

The grand finale to the trip is diving Nusa Penida , a small island between Bali and Lombok. The narrow channel between Bali and Lombok has great significance to biologists because these 20 miles of water divide the very different animals and birds of the Oriental realm from those of Australasia. Alfred Russell Wallace, the Victorian naturalist and co-author with Charles Darwin of the theory of evolution by natural selection, first recorded this boundary between Bali and Lombok (known as Wallace's Line) and noted there are two distinct faunas rigidly circumscribed, which differ as much as those of South America and Africa, and more than those of Europe and North America. Nusa Penida sits right on Wallace's Line, so here we may find a mixture of species from both areas!

One main reason that this trip is scheduled for September is that this is the Sunfish season. Sunfish ( Mola mola ) are without doubt one of the most bizarre and mysterious fish in the ocean. Sunfish not only hold the record for the most eggs produced by any vertebrate (one 'small' 1.4metre female has over 300 million eggs), they are also the heaviest bony fish (a 3.1metre-long, 4.2metre high specimen weighed 2.2 tonnes)! Nusa Penida is one of the very few places where encounters with the enigmatic Sunfish are common at this time of the year. The dramatic reefs here reliably attract the big stuff: reef sharks, tunas and barracudas, but if Sunfish are around you really will not care! Check out the Gallery section of the brochure to see what you are in for! At Manta Point , on Nusa Penida, there is always a good chance of seeing Manta Rays, and some people claim to have seen more than 50 on one dive as the Manta Rays come into the shallows to be cleaned!

Much of the diving on Bali has developed to cater for general holidaymakers and a number of the commonly dived sites offer good, but not outstanding, diving. To experience the exceptional it is crucial to select dive sites carefully. Even going into the water a couple of hundred metres in the wrong direction can make the difference between a good dive and a world class dive. This is the main benefit of joining this group trip that has been planned to provide the diversity of first class encounters that underwater photographers adore. The unique mix of wildlife experiences also makes this a fabulous opportunity for those with a keen interest in marine life who like to enter the water armed with a magnifying glass! Keen amateurs are constantly discovering rare species and even species new to science on Bali. Travelling with knowledgeable and experienced marine biologist, Dr Alexander Mustard, is an ideal way to informally learn about some of the most unusual marine life you will ever see.

The itinerary and dive sites remain flexible to take advantage of any new dive sites that may be found between now and the trip, as well as responding to local conditions and information. There will be 3 dives on each day where ever possible, with 2 dives on transfer days. At least one night dive will be included in the Menjangan area and night dives will be included where possible at the Liberty Wreck in Tulamben and possibly other locations too. When night dives are arranged the number of day dives will reduce to two.

Alex has also been responsible for pushing forward digital underwater photography in the UK, as the main digital speaker at the last two 'Visions in the Sea' conferences and as a co-ordinator of the international digital photography website Wetpixel.com. Alex feels that the sheer abundance and variety of subjects in Bali makes this an ideal trip for digital photographers. Throughout the trip, he will always be available for any informal discussions about photography and marine life.

Finally, above the water, Bali is extremely rich in culture and has a staggeringly beautiful landscape of terraced rice paddies and steep volcanic peaks. The Balinese are probably the most welcoming people in the world. Their friendly smiles are usually the first thing most visitors notice and also everyone's most vivid memory of their visit to Bali. This lovely and fascinating place, sometimes called 'The Island of the Gods', is an ideal place to extend your holiday.

If you are looking for a really unusual diving trip and are happy to be flexible in your approach, responding to local conditions and new discoveries, then this is the trip for you. We have withheld the names of several newly discovered dive sites specifically to protect their anonymity. Both shore diving and day boat diving are included.

Itinerary

Saturday 3rd September: Singapore Airlines midday flight from London (Heathrow) bound for Denpasar via Singapore.

Sunday 4th September: Early afternoon arrival in Denpasar. Transfer to Menjangan (3.5 hours from the airport) for a 4 nights stay at Mimpi Menjangan Resort.

Monday 5th - Wednesday 7th September : 3 days diving with three dives per day in the Menjangan and Secret Bay areas (including some exciting newly discovered dive sites!). Transfer time to dive sites will vary from 30 minutes to 1.5 hours.

Thursday 8th September : Morning transfer to Tulamben (3.5 hours) for a 6 nights stay at Mimpi Tulamben Resort. Afternoon dive and night dive on house reef.

Friday 9th - Tuesday 13th September : 5 days diving in the Tulamben area including one full day on the Liberty Wreck. There will be some full day excursions to our 'secret' dive sites, involving transfer times from 10 minutes to 2 hours.

Wednesday 14th September: Morning transfer to Candidasa (one hour) for a 3 nights stay at the lovely Watergarden Hotel. Two dives in the afternoon.

Thursday 15th September: Transfer to Padangbai (30 minutes) to take boats to Nusa Penida (about 1 hour). Three day boat dives at Nusa Penida/Lembongan.

Friday 16th September: Shallow diving at Nusa Penida/Lembongan or Padang Bai. Afternoon at leisure.

Saturday 17th September: Morning of leisure at resort (by the pool?!) or an opportunity to take a cultural trip, before departing for Denpasar airport after lunch. Early evening flight from Denpasar bound for London via Singapore.

Sunday 18th September: Morning arrival in London.

£2026 London/London

Includes:

" Scheduled flights London(Heathrow) or Manchester/Singapore/Denpasar/Singapore/London (Heathrow) or Manchester by Singapore Airlines.

" 4 nights room and breakfast on a twin/share basis in a Patio Room at Mimpi Menjangan Resort.

" 6 nights room and breakfast on a twin/share basis in a Standard Room at Mimpi Tulamben Resort.

" 3 nights room and breakfast on a twin/share basis in a Deluxe Bungalow at Watergarden Hotel, Candidasa.

" Lunches on diving days.

" 2 or 3 dives per day, boat and shore diving, to include day and night dives subject to local conditions, including tanks and weights.

" Road transport

" Boat transport

" Portage and local taxes/fees

" Dive guides (one guide to every 3 or 4 divers)

" Beach towels

" Services of Alexander Mustard as marine biologist, underwater photographer and group leader

Single Occupancy Supplement: £427. Please note that, while we will endeavour to find a room-mate for those on the tour who are single travellers and would prefer to share accommodation, in the event of a room-mate not being available the single occupancy supplement will apply. Room-mates will be allocated on a first-come first-served basis.

Important notes: Due to the nature of this tour dive sites will be chosen on the basis of the latest information available at the time of the tour and the local conditions. If new information comes available before or even during the tour, the itinerary will be altered to allow for this. It is important that those joining this tour should be flexible in their approach and able to cope with last minute changes of itinerary. Our accommodation will be in comfortable hotels with good facilities.

September is during the southwest monsoon, or the dry season in Bali. There is less rain on land and hence better visibility in the water. The southwest monsoon drives upwelling, injecting nutrients into the ocean surface and allowing life to flourish. Upwelling also brings cooler water and we may experience strong thermoclines, particularly on wall sites. Ideally bring layered wetsuit options to ensure you don't get too cold.

Critter diving is fantastic, rated by many as equal with the very best. Creatures that are rare in Sulawesi, for example, can be common in Bali (and, to be fair, vice versa). The slightly different mix in Bali makes it a great place to fill those gaps in the portfolio from other locations.

Black sand and pebbles at shore-based dive sites equals hot feet! It is best to have booties rather than foot fins.

Note: Should two people travelling together apply for the last place on the tour, we may, at our discretion, increase the group size by one.