EXPLORE CUBA

Reefs, wrecks, Bull Sharks and salsa

Saturday 11th November - Sunday 26th November 2006 (16 days)

Leader: Gavin Parsons

Group size limit: 11 divers plus leader

The Caribbean Island of Cuba may be less than 100 miles from the United States, but it seems a world away. Well mostly. The influx of tourism has grown steadily over the last few years as it has become easier to visit this old-world Caribbean haven. Yet tourists are generally herded into all-inclusive resorts, well away from the real Cuba, and live a luxurious, sheltered but artificial life without experiencing the reality of the land all around them.

The only way to experience the best of Cuba is to leave the big resorts to those who want them and travel. Here, at last, is your opportunity. For divers, Cuba has much to offer, but you have to know where to look. Its secrets are often well away from the main tourist spots like Varadero, which is why this tour winds its way across this large Caribbean Island, stopping off wherever good diving is to be found.

We start in the west of the island at La Habana, known as Havana to English-speakers. On landing we transfer to Playa Larga on the edge of the infamous Bay of Pigs (where the Americans launched a failed attack on Cuba in the 1960s). Here the diving is characterized by the drop off, which is generally less than 100 metres from the beach. The wall is coated in sponges and hard corals and contains many undercuts and tunnels, which shelter all manner of marine life. It is difficult to say what we will find, but all the usual Caribbean reef species are present and there is a chance to get 'buzzed' by some oceanic creatures as well. It is well worth looking carefully within the walls and under overhangs for the telltale whipping antennae of a Caribbean Lobster, or watching for the brightly coloured angelfish which adorn the reefs. This area is resplendent in sponges and they grow everywhere. There are numerous varieties, in a variety of colour patterns and shapes. They really are an impressive sight.

Nearby Playa Giron is just to the east the Bay of Pigs and is next on our list. The dive sites here are a mixture of shallow coral gardens and steep walls close to shore with plenty of undercuts and tunnels to explore.

The Cienfuegos region is our next stopping off point and here we stay and dive at Faro Luna . Flanked by coastal forest, the beach at Faro Luna is superb and the hotel is quaint and has great views over the Caribbean Sea. Diving here is a mixture of coral gardens, dramatic swim-throughs and, (weather depending) an offshore coral stack. The coral gardens are lovely to see, shallow and easy to explore. There is a host of marine life, although not much in the way of big fish close to shore. Near the swim-throughs are the wrecks of two recently sunk fishing boats. These are good to explore as they are becoming increasingly colonised by marine life. It is also worth keeping an eye on the blue water as the wrecks are often buzzed by oceanic species such as Pompanos (which the Cubans simply call 'jacks'), Spanish Mackerels and Rainbow Runners. However, provided we have good weather, we plan to get out to the offshore stack which is abundant with all manner of marine life from turtles to sharks and a plethora of large fish.

The next stop is Cuba's second city and its cultural centre. Havana may be Cuba's most famous town, but Santiago de Cuba is still swinging with an authentic Latin beat! The drive from Faro Luna to Santiago de Cuba is a long one and, traffic-wise, like Christmas Day in the UK. No-one around! It is surreal in a country of 11 million people to find so few cars in the 21st century!

Fidel Castro's government is essentially to blame for the lack of economic development, though it is not altogether their fault. When they nationalized the US-owned oil companies and everything else in the early 1960s, the USA stopped all commerce, pushing them towards the power of the Soviet Rouble. Under the veil of the Soviet Block, Cuba prospered as it became part of the massive Soviet trading partnership. It was Cuba's job to supply sugar, so huge canefields and processing plants dotted the countryside and supplied the Red world with sweet gold. Oil, food and anything else Cuba needed was delivered from other partners, and life was good under the warm Caribbean sun. Until, that is, Moscow shut its doors on business one day and didn't reopen them the next. Cuba had nothing to offer the world but sugar, and the price was low. The government kept the loss-making sugar business afloat by pumping in huge quantities of money and an economic meltdown ensued. People soon found themselves desperately poor. The 1990s were a dark time for Cuba, but tourism is now a big part of Castro's plans to turn the tide.

The government still owns the main businesses, but each company is nowadays in competition, creating a sort of quasi-capitalist economy that is set to grow, which is one reason why Cubans welcome visitors. But Cuba is unlike almost anywhere else that tourists visit, because as yet the man in the street is not after your money. He just wants to make you smile, which is something you will hopefully be doing a lot of on this tour!

Santiago de Cuba is the country's main Caribbean port, and a big cultural centre. It is also a place of music - both in the main square and in the cafes. It is an enjoyable place to visit and a living, breathing step back to Cuba's heyday. The people may not be prosperous, but in spirit and warmth they are millionaires. The reefs here are excellent with corals, seafans and sponges in abundance. Fish life is good too and there will be plenty of opportunities for photography and exploration as the diving is relaxed and not too taxing.

All the diving so far is a prelude to one of Cuba's, if not the Caribbean's, best wreck dives - the Cristobal Colon . At the end of the 19th century Cuba was desperately trying to gain its independence from Spain. There had been fighting on and off since 1868 and Spain was exhausted by the conflict by the time America came sniffing around and looking for a fight. The impetus for a full-blown war was the unexpected destruction of a US warship anchored in Havana harbour in 1898. It is now widely believed to have been a 'fix', but in any event it was the spark the conflict needed. Later that year, a group of US warships pounced on the Cristobal Colon , a formidable Spanish, steel-armoured battle-cruiser some 100 metres long, with an 18.2 metre beam and displacing 6,840 tons. Steam-expansion engines pushed her at 19 knots and she carried weapons ranging from 6-inch guns to 22-millimetre machine-guns, and even torpedoes. She was not a match for the Americans, though, and her captain headed for the safety of the coast, but ended up running the vessel aground.

The wreck now lies just outside the surf zone on the sand slope from around 6 metres down to 35 metres, and is to shipwrecks what the Grand Canyon is to landscapes! As the only thing to stick up for some distance, it is coated in benthic marine life and shrouded in fish. Huge sponges hang from the bow, which points out to sea, and every inch is covered in coral or other growth. All the guns are visible, though time and rough seas have smashed the stern down a little and knocked the larger guns from their mounts.

It is possible to get inside the wreck in some areas, but deep penetration is not advised because of the age of the vessel and the delicate growth. Swimming out from the bow and turning gives you one of the most spectacular views of any wreck that Gavin Parsons has ever seen. From here, work your way slowly up the ship into the shallows. Photographically the wreck is brilliant, but if you are here just to experience a piece of history you will not be disappointed as there is so much history to see. Weather and time permitting, we will do two dives on this impressive wreck, exploring as much as possible and having time to take as many pictures as we wish.

Saint Lucia on the north coast is the next stop and our turning around point. To get there we drive through some of Cuba's most stunning scenery. The interior of Cuba is dotted with rugged mountain ranges where, in the 1950s, Castro's rebels hid before making their assault on Batista's regime. Something that changed the face of Cuba forever. We also get to see the true nature of Cuba here. As we drive through the heart of the nation, we pass through local towns and villages and get to see real Cubans in the real Cuba.

Saint Lucia is home of high adrenaline diving as it is one of the few places in the world where you can reliably and safely dive with Bull Sharks . Known also as the Zambezi Shark, the Bull Shark is a formidable fish with a thickset, powerful body and a fearsome reputation. Yet the dive guides at our dive centre have been hand-feeding (yes, you read that right!) a group of bull sharks in a sheltered channel for many years. The dive is tidal and highly time-dependant, and simply awe-inspiring. The Bull Sharks are all adults and used to being fed. Even so, safety is a priority and each group is accompanied by a feeder and also by safety divers to keep the animals in check. There is no fancy chain-mail and no macho hype with this dive. It is just a pure elasmobranch experience! For photographers, this dive is amazing as we know of nowhere else in the world where you can get so close to Bull Sharks now that Walkers Cay has stopped its feeding programme. The site itself is on a 27m deep sandy seabed next to a very pretty old freighter. Even without the sharks, this is a fantastic dive in its own right.

We stop at Cayo Coco on the north coast for the next round of reef diving. One Spaniard who was a regular here loved one of the reefs so much that his ashes were placed there when he died. There is a mini shrine to the man now, which is surrounded by a beautiful reef system. The accommodation at Cayo Coco is a little larger and more touristy than many of the other resorts we stay at, but don't let that put you off. The hotel may be a little sprawling, but the beach is beautiful, the dive centre first rate and the service impeccable. You cannot fault the Cubans for their hospitality.

We wind up in Havana where we finish the diving at the local dive sites. There are several dives in the area, including a variety of wrecks (some accidental, some intentionally sunk) and a reef that drops into the Atlantic in a series of steps, which has created a good place for a variety of sponges and corals to colonize.

The last day of the trip can be spent either relaxing or exploring Havana itself. The old town is under renovation after years of neglect and is a major tourist attraction. Even so, just beneath the façade of the tourist trade, there is real Cuba going on all around you and it is easy to keep away from the tourist shops and enjoy the real atmosphere of Cuba as it sways to its unique Latin beat.

This special trip is scheduled for November, which comes after the hurricane season and is considered the best time to visit many of Cuba's dive sites, and takes in as much of Cuba and Cuban diving as can be put into two weeks. Visitors to Cuba generally enter one hotel complex and stay there, with just a couple of excursions to tourist sites during their stay. This trip breaks out of that mould and shows you some of what Cuba is all about, both above and below the water. When you get back home you really can say you dived Cuba, and not just a small part of it. Our expedition combines exhilarating sharks, superb wrecks, awesome walls and pretty reefs and coral gardens.

Some of the sites, although dependent on the weather and the whims of marine life, are fixed, the others, because of the trip's nature, are flexible, but we will be getting the best out of each area we visit. Most days will see two or three dives and at most locations there is also the opportunity to do an optional night dive. Cuba is a large island and there is quite a lot of travelling involved, but that is how you see the country. And it gives you the opportunity to stop and see the countryside and even meet the locals. Cubans on the whole are very friendly and welcome attention from visitors to their homeland. Those famous 1950s American cars still run through the streets, as they are the only form of mechanised transport most families possess. Sometimes a town looks like a classic car meet, with huge tail fins and wide wheels everywhere, but it is actually just people going to the shops or to work. Spontaneous music sparks up unexpectedly from cafes, and in the many towns and villages horses are, for many, the chosen form of transport. Cuba really is a step back in time.

Cuba is a diverse island with a host of natural and cultural experiences awaiting discovery. Some are beneath the waves, but others are had simply by saying hello to a farmer at the side of the road. In fact there are few places in the world where a policeman will apologize for stopping your vehicle to check paperwork, where a poor farmer will insist you try his guava or where you can receive a smile just by looking at someone in the street. Cuba has that and so much more.

Gavin has a love of travel and meeting people. He is an accomplished travel photographer as well an underwater photographer and is happy to pass on his knowledge to anyone. He loves the Cuban people and has written several articles about the island. He is not one for package holidays and loves the freedom that travelling gives, especially in a place like Cuba, which has a plethora of wonders spread across it. The only way to experience them is to explore the island. On land Gavin is keen to photograph the local environment and the local people whenever possible. He is happy for you to join him. A spirit of adventure is called for in those who accompany Gavin to Cuba. Prepare yourself for being half-submerged in a mangrove forest, talking in pigeon Spanish to a local farmer or staying very still so as not to disturb the local wildlife.

If you are looking for a trip that takes in the best of Cuban diving and gives you the chance to see a great deal of the island then you have found it. There is quite a lot of travel involved for sure, but you will not be locked away in a tourist resort, denied forever the opportunity to understand what Cuba is all about. You will be right there in it.

The standard of accommodation varies, but is generally good to very good. Some of the hotel arrangements are on a full-board basis, and where this is not the case lunch or dinner will be taken in a local café or restaurant. On some days packed or picnic lunches will be arranged. In general the food in Cuba is very good, well prepared and plentiful. There is generally a choice of Caribbean dishes and more western fare. Beer and wine are widely available, but what many people come to Cuba to sample, beverage-wise, is the rum. Havana Club was born here, as was Bacardi and the tipple is divine (well if you like that sort of thing).

Diving safety: All the dive staff at Cuba's centres are Cuban. Ordinarily locals could not afford to train as divers, which is where the government comes in. Cubanacan Nautica (which owns all the dive centres we will visit) employs Cubans with the right aptitude and keenness. Once taught, they are employed at a centre to learn the sites and, after a couple of years, start divemaster training. After working as a guide and assistant for another few years they may reach instructor level, a privileged position for Cubans. Because of the US embargo, Cuba is one of the few places where PADI is a rarity. All diving is conducted under the CMAS-affiliated ACUC organisation based in Spain, which is similar to PADI training-wise. As guides and instructors remain with a centre for years, they have intimate knowledge of the sites and procedures and are very experienced. It is one of the best-run systems in the world, and is far above many popular destinations where staff turnover is high.

All but one of our dive centres have the facility to offer night dives. Night dives are optional and are not included in the tour price. The cost of night dives is £25 per dive.

Due the nature of this tour, dive sites are chosen depending on the weather, sea conditions and marine life. The Bull Sharks are present for most of the year but do, from time to time, fail to show at the feeding station. The sea condition can also affect some sites such as the wreck of the Cristobal Colon and other offshore sites. Alternative sites will be chosen if this is the case. This trip is designed to provide some of the best diving available in Cuba and therefore the itinerary could be subject to changes before or even during the tour, should new sites become available or existing sites change due to local conditions. It is, therefore, important for those joining this tour to have a spirit of adventure, to be flexible and to be able to cope both with the travelling and any last minute changes. All the accommodation is in comfortable hotels with good facilities and diving is run by reputable dive centres with fully qualified staff.

Itinerary

Saturday 11th November: Air France morning flight from London (Heathrow) bound for Havana via Paris, arriving in the late afternoon. Transfer to an hotel in Playa Larga.

Sunday 12th November - Friday 24th November: Discover the lovely island of Cuba, with 13 nights hotel accommodation on a twin/share basis. 2 or 3 boat dives on most days. (Optional night dives will be available at some locations, but are not included in the holiday cost.)

Saturday 25th November: Relax and top up your sun tan or explore Havana. Early evening flight from Havana bound for London via Paris.

Sunday 26th November: Early afternoon arrival in London.

£1913 London/London (or £1437 Havana/Havana)

Non-divers: £1538 London/London (or £1062 Havana/Havana)

Includes:

" Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Paris/Havana/Paris/London (Heathrow) by Air France.

" Road transport throughout the itinerary.

" 14 nights hotel accommodation on a twin/share basis, including all meals. " 22 boat dives, including dive guide, tanks and weights.

" Services of Gavin Parsons as group leader.

Important: The airfare component of the tour price is a typical economy fare available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class availability, at the time of booking, based on your individual requirements (for example, you may want to extend your holiday, or travel from an airport other than London, or use a different airline). Our quote, which will include all taxes and fuel supplements applicable at the time of quotation, as well as our service charge, may be higher or lower than the airfare included here.

Single Occupancy Supplement: £126. Please note that, while we will endeavour to find a room-mate for those on the tour who are single travellers and would prefer to share accommodation, in the event of a room-mate not being available the single occupancy supplement will apply. Room-mates will be allocated on a first-come first-served basis.

Note: Should two people travelling together apply for the last place on the tour, we may, at our discretion, increase the group size by one.