LAYANG LAYANG, BORNEO

Year:2005

Pelagic encounters in the South China Sea

Season: March-September

Visibility: 15-40 metres

Water temperature: 27-29°C

In the middle of the South China Sea, 300 kilometres off the north coast of Sabah (East Malaysia) in Borneo, lies the remote coral atoll of Layang Layang. Here, thirteen coral reefs are linked together to form an atoll some 14 square kilometres in extent, yet only one reef breaks the surface of the deep turquoise ocean to form a mere scrap of an island. The island rather surprisingly supports a three-star diving resort, a 1,000-metre runway and a naval base as well as thousands of breeding sea birds! The combination of rich and nutritious ocean currents, the unique off-shore location and the deep water surrounding the atoll makes Layang Layang an exciting destination for pelagic encounters and stunning coral-rich diving.

The finest diving is to be found at the outer fringes of the atoll along the dramatic, coral-festooned, plunging walls. All the dives are slow drifts along the walls. The coral species found on the seaward edge of the atoll are of the Acropora and Porite varieties which have the type of structure which endures the wave action of the open sea. On the reef crest, coral gardens support superb populations of invertebrates with cowries, cone shells and several varieties of nudibranchs (the latter found particularly on ledges or shelves). Huge domes of brain coral, forests of staghorn coral and, at deeper depths, elegant gorgonians, bushes of black coral, sea fans and enormous barrel sponges all add to the diversity of this coral paradise. It is, however, the pelagic encounters that lure adventurous divers to the remote reefs at Layang Layang.

At most dive sites the crests of the reefs can be found at depths of between 5 and 10 metres and D-Wall is no exception to the rule. The pretty coral garden on the reef crest supports an abundance of small, brightly-coloured tropical fish that forage for food amongst the coral. On the wall, at deeper depths, Emperor Angelfish and Coral Groupers trawl the reef while several large snarling' morays can be found hiding in the crevices. Large schools of elegant Schooling Bannerfish, surgeonfish, jacks and fusiliers are also found in the open water and Manta Ray sightings are not unusual.

There can be few more awesome sites than a school of Scalloped Hammerhead sharks sweeping their weirdly shaped heads backwards and forwards in their search for food and at Gorgonian Forest you are likely to encounter a formation of these startling creatures cruising the open water. Close to the reefs it is possible to find individual hammerheads or maybe come across a Leopard Shark resting on a ledge. At more shallow levels are the forests' of gorgonians that lend their name to this dive site along with wonderful whirls of whip coral and the rare black coral.

At Dogtooth Lair some divers have described seeing hammerhead wallpaper' after they have witnessed the sight of weird and fascinating hammerhead silhouettes against a background of deep blue. Here the sometimes fierce currents bring rich nutrients which provide the essential base for the food chain which ends with these mighty sharks. As the name suggests, Dogtooth Tuna are frequently encountered cruising the steep walls.

Diving at Layang Layang can be quite unpredictable due to its off-shore situation but, at its best, the superb visibility and the possibility of exciting pelagic encounters offers the diver some most unusual experiences.

For those wanting the very best chances of seeing schooling hammerheads, we recommend a visit to Layang Layang in April or May. These bizarre-looking sharks can turn up at Layang Layang at any time of year, but for some reason they are consistently recorded within safe sport diving limits between April and May. Even then they can be unpredictable.

LAYANG LAYANG ISLAND RESORT

Layang Layang Island Resort is a dedicated dive resort which currently has 86 rooms. Each air-conditioned room has two queen-sized beds, refrigerator, satellite TV and attached shower room with toilet. A dip in the freshwater swimming pool is a welcome way to cool down in the midday heat. Five meals a day, featuring both Asian and International cuisine, are served at the pool-side veranda. The island is self-sufficient in fresh water as the desalination plant ensures a constant supply.

Three boat dives a day are offered by the resort's dive centre; two in the morning and one in the afternoon. Fast catamarans speed divers to the dive sites which are from 10 to 20 minutes boat ride from the main dock. Shore diving is available in the lagoon for those who wish, but, in keeping with most lagoons, fish life is rather limited.

The resort is served by a daily charter flight during the season. An overnight stay in Kota Kinabalu is normally required before onward travel to Layang Layang as the outbound charter flight operates in the morning. On the return journey you will arrive back in Kota Kinabalu by mid-morning, in time to connect with flights to Kuala Lumpur etc.

£710 (non-divers: £562) for 5 nights

£790 (non-divers: £618) for 6 nights

£880 (non-divers: £674) for 7 nights

Includes:

" Charter flights Kota Kinabalu/Layang Layang/Kota Kinabalu.

" 5, 6 or 7 nights full board accommodation (breakfast, lunch and dinner) on a twin-share basis at Layang Layang Island Resort.

" 5, 6 or 7 days diving (usually 3 boat dives daily, but only 2 on day of arrival and 1 on day prior to departure), dive guide, cylinders and weights.

Additional Nights: £80 (without diving: £56)

Single Occupancy Supplement: £25 per night

Deposit: £100

FLIGHTS

The airfares shown are the least expensive fare category available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class availability, at the time of booking. the usual airfare deposit is £100.

MALAYSIA AIRLINES

Malaysia Airlines has daily midday departures from London (Heathrow) to Kota Kinabalu via Kuala Lumpur, arriving the following morning or midday. After an overnight in Kota Kinabalu, continue to Layang Layang next morning. Return from Layang Layang to Kota Kinabalu on any day of the week. There are daily return flights in the evening from Kota Kinabalu via Kuala Lumpur, arriving at London (Heathrow) the following morning.

Flight connections are also available from Manchester to Kuala Lumpur at no additional cost. Flights depart from Manchester on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday. Return flights leave Kuala Lumpur on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday.

Concessionary rates are available for connecting flights between Leeds/Bradford, Manchester, Teesside, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Belfast and London. Please contact our office for details.

£688 for departures 1 January-30 June (excluding Easter), 1 September-9 December

£763 for departures at Easter, 1-7 July, 18-31 August, 25-31 December

£875 for departures 8 July-17 August 10-24 December

Weekend Supplement: £12 each way for departures from London, Manchester or Kota Kinabalu on Fridays, Saturdays or Sundays.

Includes:

" Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Kuala Lumpur/Kota Kinabalu/Kuala Lumpur/London (Heathrow) by Malaysia Airlines.

Business Class Upgrades: These are available on Malaysia Airlines between the UK and Kuala Lumpur or Kota Kinabalu at attractive rates. Please contact our office for details.

Overnights in Kota Kinabalu: £40 per night room-only at the luxurious Shangri-La's Tanjung Aru Resort on a twin/share basis. A single occupancy supplement of £40 per night applies. Airport/hotel transfers cost £7 each way.

SINGAPORE STOP-OVERS

Why not take the opportunity to explore Singapore as part of your holiday? Malaysia Airlines fly between London and Singapore, via Kual;a Lumpur, daily and stop-overs are available for an additional charge. We can arrange your hotel accommodation: for details please see the Southern Thailand entry in this brochure.

COMBINING LAYANG LAYANG WITH SIPADAN & MABUL

Why not extend your holiday in Borneo and combine a visit to Layang Layang with a visit to world famous Sipadan island with its incredible diving and Mabul island with its fascinating macro life'? No intervening night is required in Kota Kinabalu between Layang Layang and Sipadan & Mabul as one can travel between islands during a single day (but only in this direction).

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