NEW IRELAND, PAPUA NEW GUINEA

Year:2006

Melanesian Magic: the outer limits

Season: Year-round diving

Visibility: 15-40 metres

Water temperature: 28-30°C

New Ireland is a long narrow tropical island that forms part of the Bismarck Archipelago. Situated to the north of the island of New Guinea, it divides the Pacific Ocean from the Bismarck Sea. Off its northwestern tip is the island of New Hanover, whose people were once known for their strange 'cargo-cult' beliefs. The inhabitants came to suppose that with only the correct worship, or magic, ships and planes loaded with goods would arrive for their use! Arching towards the south east, New Ireland points towards the larger island of New Britain and far off Bougainville Island, where political problems mean it is unlikely that visitors will be welcome for some time.

KAVIENG & NEW HANOVER

Situated beside a wonderful natural harbour at the tip of the island of New Ireland is the small provincial town of Kavieng, capital of New Ireland Province. Between here and New Hanover is a truly amazing series of islands, straits and passages that create some really exciting diving: Steffen Strait , Northeast Pass , Planet Channel , Albatross Passage and Byron Strait . Currents can be strong here at times, but as the tide comes in, so too, come the fish to feed and the soft corals bloom in the rich waters. The tidal currents that sweep backwards and forwards between the myriad of tiny islands bring nutrients to tempt the larger fish from their open ocean homes. Although many dive guides emphasize the superb pelagic encounters to be found in the waters off Kavieng, there are also many beautiful and colourful smaller fish and invertebrates. Lagoons and mangroves around the islands form nurseries for many species of fish while sandy shelves, too shallow for large fish to hunt, provide some fascinating dive sites.

Nusa Blowholes near Nusa Island is formed from an eroded limestone costal reef, with blowholes that send fountains of water several metres into the air each time a wave hits the shore. In spite of the surge that is characteristic of this dive site it is one well worth visiting with a long 'wish-list' of creatures to seek, perhaps ranging from the amazing mantis shrimp to a resting Tawny Nurse Shark beneath a rock. Several species of nudibranchs can be found here, many of them very brightly coloured: some green and orange, others in shades of blue and white. Search carefully and you may find the amazing decorator crab, beautifully adorned with small pieces of sponge or seaweed.

Situated in one of the channels between New Ireland and Binnegem Island, Albatross Pass , in Albatross Channel can be subject to strong currents, but on an incoming tide this can be an exhilarating and rewarding dive. The sandy reef top is home to a colony of garden eels, but appears mostly barren due to the wave and current action on its surface. If the current runs too strongly it is worth dropping down the anchor line, hand over hand, until the current becomes weak at about 30 metres. Here, large black coral 'bushes', gorgonians and soft corals decorate the walls and overhangs, and swim-throughs create interesting diving. Grey Reef Sharks are often found here and from time to time are joined by Manta Rays. Barracuda patrol in large schools and beautiful black, silver and gold Teira Batfish seem to enjoy the diver's presence.

It may be a long boat ride out to Silvertip Reef (also known as Valerie's Reef) in the Northeast Pass, close to New Hanover, but it is certainly worth the trip. Initially discovered by Valerie Taylor, this shallow dive on an otherwise fairly unremarkable reef is the place for really close encounters of the Silvertip kind. Divers drop close to the reef surface, above the hard corals, and look around through the water searching for the sharks. It is not long before these creatures appear: first one, then another, then perhaps three or four of these big elegant sharks, swimming in the characteristic 'S' shape and seemingly un-bothered by the divers. Closing to within a metre of two of the divers, the sharks know exactly what they are looking for as they can scent the small piece of fish that is usually brought by the divemaster for their treat! What can be more exhilarating or exciting than being truly so close to these wild and wonderful fish. The dive time simply flies by as the sharks weave about between the coral heads, disappearing into the blue beyond only to suddenly reappear behind one! All too soon it is time to ascend. Watch out. Perhaps the sharks are coming too!

Lissenung Island itself offers some great shore diving and photographic opportunities. At least six species of anemonefish can be found on the 'house reef', as well as many other reef fish including the strange Bigmouth Mackerel (schools of which open their mouths in unison to trawl for food), hawkfish, delightful little Black-tailed Dascyllus and shrimp gobies. Juvenile Black-tip Reef Sharks hunt the border between the sand flat and the reef. At night there are iridescent squid, octopus and numerous shrimps and crabs.

LISSENUNG ISLAND

For those who really want to get away from it all and stay on a tiny tropical island, this has to be the place to stay. The Austrian owner of the dive centre here, Dietmar Amon, also manages a tiny resort comprising only two semi-detached wooden chalets with banana-leaf roofs and offers a maximum of 8 guests the chance to stay on the island itself. It is unusual for there to be full occupancy, and you might even be the only guests here! Lissenung is surrounded by a fringe of beautiful coral sand beach that shelves gently into the warm blue sea. Tall palm trees sway in the breeze and flowering bushes and scrub form a dense fringe of undergrowth that hides the tiny resort from the outside world. Within the fringe of vegetation, in the more open centre of the island, sandy pathways have been formed that link the dive centre, the restaurant, the bungalows and the shower and toilet block.

Bungalows, built in traditional local style on stilts, are reached by climbing several steps to a veranda. The decidedly simple rooms are furnished with two beds, each covered by a mosquito net. Open shelving provides basic storage space for clothes and there is a ceiling fan and simple lighting. One bungalow has a private bathroom. Electricity is provided from seven in the morning until about eleven at night. If you forget the torch; simply 'feel' your way back to your room in the glorious velvet dark night with the light of the stars and moon to show you the way.

Simple meals are taken in the restaurant area, where there are books, magazines and easy chairs for those moments of relaxation. There are plans for upgrading the accommodation, but as yet they remain simply plans and, if you are the romantic type, it may be better to visit the island now before the 'improvements' take place!

There is one dive boat which takes divers to the various dive sites, taking from 10 minutes up to an hour and a quarter depending on the chosen venue. The boat usually leaves the island in the morning for two or three dives, with lunch and surface intervals being taken on the boat. The boat usually returns to the island some time during the afternoon.

Excellent shore diving and snorkeling is available, as are night dives.

£383 (non-divers: £215) for 5 nights

£482 (non-divers: £258) for 6 nights

£581 (non-divers: £301) for 7 nights

£680 (non-divers: £344) for 8 nights

Includes:

" Transfers between Kavieng and Lissenung Island by open motor boat.

" 5, 6, 7 or 8 nights full board accommodation (breakfast, lunch and dinner), including tea, coffee and orange squash, on a twin/share basis at Lissenung Island.

" 3, 4, 5 or 6 days diving (2 boat dives daily and unlimited use of tanks for shore diving), dive guide on boat dives, cylinders and weights.

Kindly note that divers will be required to pay a local recompression chamber fee of US$2 per day per person.

Supplement for an additional day of diving: £56

Supplement for 3 boat dives: £25 per day

Supplement for bungalow with private bathroom: £9 per person per night

Additional Nights: £99 (without diving: £43)

Single Occupancy Supplement: £6 per night

Deposit: £100

MALAGAN BEACH RESORT

Malagan Beach Resort is Kavieng's best hotel and offers a much more comfortable standard of accommodation than the basic but pleasant little 'resort' on Lissenung Island. With its wooden built, air-conditioned rooms and en suite facilities, the Malagan Beach Resort overlooks Kavieng Bay with a view of the islands beyond. Each room has a refrigerator, along with telephone and satellite TV. A pleasant bar and beach-front restaurant offers local and 'continental' meals. The hotel is a few minutes walk from the centre of the town.

Divers who wish to stay at Malagan Beach Resort will dive with Lissenung Island Divers and will be collected by boat from the beach in front of the hotel each morning and returned in the afternoon.

£408 (non-divers: £240) for 5 nights

£512 (non-divers: £288) for 6 nights

£616 (non-divers: £336) for 7 nights

£720 (non-divers: £384) for 8 nights

Includes:

" Airport transfers.

" 5, 6, 7 or 8 nights room-only accommodation on a twin/share basis at Malagan Beach Resort.

" 3, 4, 5 or 6 days diving (2 boat dives daily), dive guide, cylinders and weights, including boat transfers between the hotel and Lissenung Island.

Supplement for an additional day of diving: £56

Supplement for 3 boat dives: £25 per day

Additional Nights: £104 (without diving: £48)

Single Occupancy Supplement: £48 per night

Deposit: £100

FE BRINA

Fe Brina operates a series of 8-12 nights cruises between northern New Ireland and Kimbe Bay (Walindi Plantation Resort) in New Britain, or in New Ireland itself, departing from opposite the Malagan Beach Resort, from April to December. New Ireland cruises explore the channels and islands of northern New Ireland and also make a loop around New Hanover to dive the recently discovered dive sites in that area. For full details of Fe Brina cruises see the New Britain entry in this brochure.

FLIGHTS

See the New Britain entry for flight details and airfares.

SINGAPORE STOP-OVERS

Why not take the opportunity to explore Singapore as part of your holiday? Singapore Airlines fly between London and Singapore daily and stop-overs are available at no additional airfare. We can arrange your hotel accommodation: for details please see the Southern Thailand entry in this brochure.

COMBINING NEW IRELAND WITH NEW BRITAIN OR LOLOATA ISLAND

Why not extend your holiday in PNG and visit New Britain? Walindi Plantation Resort offers a superb range of shore-based diving with marvellous 'macro life' as well as good numbers of big fish. Alternatively take a cruise on S tar Dancer or Fe Brina . See the New Britain brochure entry for details. A small additional airfare will be applicable and additional hotel nights in Kavieng or Walindi may be required between liveaboard cruises. Alternatively, why not visit Loloata Island near Port Moresby. Stopovers in Port Moresby, for a visit to nearby Loloata Island, are available at no additional airfare.