BORA BORA, FRENCH POLYNESIA

Year:2005

Diving in Paradise

Season: Year-round diving

Visibility: 25-50 metres

Water temperature: 26-28°C

The islands of French Polynesia, which provided the inspiration for the artist Paul Gauguin's vivid and passionate images of the South Seas, must be everyone's dream of the South Pacific. Australia lies to the west, South America to the east and directly north lies Hawaii. Towering mountains clad in dense vegetation, atolls and lagoons formed by strings of idyllic low-lying coral islands  little wonder that the crew of the Bounty defied Captain Bligh in order to stay on in these beautiful islands with their beautiful inhabitants! Add to this some of the most stunning pelagic encounters and pristine hard coral reefs and it is clear why divers are happy to make the long journey to the South Pacific.

French Polynesia comprises five distinct island groups: the Society Islands, the Tuamotu Islands, the Gambier Islands, the Austral Islands and the far-flung Marquesas Islands, most of which offer superb diving (or, in the case of the Australs, amazing snorkeling with whales). The mountainous Society Islands have beautiful lagoons protected by barrier reefs. A bounty of exquisite reef fish, fine reefs and the special attraction of Manta Rays and sharks lure divers in this direction. The low-lying Tuamotus, with their classic coral islands and islets, offer divers some of the most exhilarating pelagic, and particularly shark, encounters anywhere in the world. The Australs, far to the south, have a remarkable attraction in the form of the Humpback Whales which migrate to these islands to mate and calve from July to October each year. It will be so difficult to decide which islands to visit that you will want to sample all of them!

The Society Islands run in a line directly north-west from Tahiti, with Bora Bora lying 250 kilometres away. If there ever was a picture-postcard-perfect island in the Pacific Ocean then Bora Bora is surely it! Conical volcanic peaks reach skywards. Verdant vegetation and swaying palm trees coat the island and shimmering, crystal clear, azure blue waters with soft vanilla-tinged sand tempt the visitor into romantic barefoot strolls along the shore. Add to this fine reefs and frequent Manta Ray and shark encounters and it is possible to imagine that diving heaven lies here! There has to be a downside and in today's Bora Bora it is surely the presence of many large and mostly over-priced resort hotels catering mainly for the American tourist market. However, it is possible to enjoy the wonderful diving of Bora Bora without breaking the bank, although it may well be worth popping along to one of the five star hotels to watch a Polynesian dance performance whilst sipping an exotic cocktail before dinner (after all, you are on holiday!).

The main island, around 9 kilometres in length and 4 kilometres wide, is encircled by a wide and sheltered lagoon. A series of smaller islets encircle the main island to the west, north and east, thus forming Bora Bora's lagoon. Manta Rays and sharks can be encountered both inside and outside the lagoon and the fine coral population supports a good variety of reef fish. Boat journeys can be quite long as there is only one pass into and out of the lagoon.

For Manta Ray fans, Anau , on the east of the island and within the lagoon, is likely to please. This sandy pass of around 20-25 metres depth is used by Manta Rays to travel north and south as well as to patrol the coral reefs. Drop over the edge of the reef and look out for the mantas, which may occur in groups of five or ten. A quiet and relaxed approach should bring them in as these fabulous creatures are used to divers and often like to take a look at their weird visitors from above the waves. The mantas here have wing spans of between 2-3 metres, but occasional giants' with wing spans of up to 4 metres have been spotted. What can be more wonderful than watching a gently flapping Manta Ray passing by? Here, too, can be found Black-tipped Reef Sharks patrolling the reef as well as good populations of reef fish. Big Napoleo n Wrasse may come to take a look at you. Teira (or Long-finned) Batfish, angelfish in many guises, schools of smart black, yellow and white Threadfin Butterflyfish and parrotfish brighten the reef in a kaleidoscope of colour. The best time to dive at this site is from May to December, when the visibility is at its best and the Manta Rays are present in good numbers and giving birth to their young. From January to April the chances of a manta encounter drops to about 40-50% from almost 100% in high season.

Tapu is outside the barrier reef and sharks are a major attraction here. As the boat moors, in about 15 metres of water, you are likely to see Black-tipped Reef Sharks gliding below. Descend the anchor line and start to explore the gently sloping shelf with its coral patches. Clouds of delightful black, white and yellow Threadfin Butterflyfish colour the water. Triggerfish and tangs are also common here, as well as larger fish such as the hulking and handsome-in-its-way Napoleon Wrasse, Dogtooth Tuna and jacks. Lemon Sharks are often seen hugging the lower slopes of the reef, or gracefully moving between the corals. At the end of the dive it is worth hanging around to watch the action when the divemaster dumps the contents of his feeding bag and the sharks chase off the small fish in their eagerness for a snack!

A more advanced dive, and another on the outside of the reef, is Tupitipiti. Located on the southwest of the island, divers descend to 20 metres or so in open water, then swim north to meet the reef  and what a reef it is! Here you will find a steep drop-off with a healthy population of reef fish. Fish, however, are not the main focus of the dive. The reef here is filled with caves, undercuts, swimthroughs, chasms and canyons. There are so many fascinating nooks and crannies to explore. The superb corals in red, purple, orange, vermilion and blue branch from the walls, making intricate patterns and criss-crossing over themselves in a complex and delicate filigree of life. Bright sponges, like large blots on blotting paper, also grow from the walls. One might almost imagine Paul Gauguin finding inspiration for his colourful paintings on this reef!

Bora Bora is not only the preserve of divers, for excellent snorkeling can be found here. Thanks to the staff of the Bora Bora Hotel feeding the fish and keeping away the fishermen, a superb unofficial snorkeling site has been created next to our dive centre. Other good snorkeling sites require a trip in the boat and can be arranged with the dive centre.

HOTEL MATIRA

The very pleasant Matira Hotel lies right on the beach, near the south tip of the main island of Bora Bora. The hotel consists of 20 simple, thatched-roof bungalows with en-suite bathrooms, ceiling fans and refrigerators. The rooms are furnished with two twin beds and a wardrobe. Each bungalow is surrounded by a spacious terrace with plenty of chairs for relaxing between dives. The hotel is situated about a ten minute walk from Bora Diving Centre, but the dive boat will come to collect you from the beach in front of the hotel each day. There is a good restaurant and a small shop close by. The hotel is divided into two sections with the reception area, boutique and the Beach Bungalows in one area and the Lagoon View, Garden View and Standard Bungalows a short distance away.

Bora Diving Centre is run by Anne and Michel Condesse and is located on the beach next to the Bora Bora Hotel, on one of the island's most beautiful beaches. Anne and Michel have been running their dive centre since 1992 and in 1999 were awarded full PADI status. Bora Diving Centre is equipped with a small shop, showers and toilets and a classroom. They open from 0800 to 1200 and again from 1350 to 1700 each day. Five speed boats whisk divers out to the dive sites. The boats can take from 6 to 21 divers in comfort and all have full first aid kits, VHF radio and oxygen cylinders. Fruit, water and fruit juice are provided on the boat. The international instructors can speak fluent French, English, Spanish, Portuguese and Tahitian. They can also speak a little Italian, German and Japanese when necessary! Speciality courses are offered for Deep Diving, Night Diving and Underwater Naturalist. One instructor specializes in diving for the disabled. It is essential that Bora Diving Centre divemasters take at least two dives with their client to evaluate them fully before embarking on any of the more difficult dives (although most of the diving is easy and with little current).

Divers leave each morning at 0830 for either one or two dives, depending on the chosen location, and return for lunch. One dive can be taken in the afternoon, departing at 1330. Night dives (to be arranged locally) leave the dock at 1830. Dives usually last between 45 minutes and one hour, with the emphasis on going slowly, searching for interesting creatures and enjoying the underwater world, rather than embarking on a diving marathon. The pace is relaxed and there is no need to rush. Non-divers are happily accepted on the boats if there is sufficient space.

As the owners of the dive centre have small children, child-minding services are available for both babies and young children with the owners' children's nurse. A fee, currently CFP3000 (about £18), is payable locally for 3 hours child-minding.

Standard Bungalow

£737 (non-divers: £305) from 1 January-28/29 February, 1 November-31 December

£779 (non-divers: £347) from 1 March-30 June

£814 (non-divers: £382) from 1 July-31 October

Garden View Bungalow

£821 (non-divers: £389) from 1 January-28/29 February, 1 November-31 December

£863 (non-divers: £431) from 1 March-30 June

£898 (non-divers: £466) from 1 July-31 October

Lagoon View Bungalow

£884 (non-divers: £452) from 1 January-28/29 February, 1 November-31 December

£912 (non-divers: £480) from 1 March-30 June

£947 (non-divers: £515) from 1 July-31 October

Beach Bungalow

£919 (non-divers: £487) from 1 January-28/29 February, 1 November-31 December

£947 (non-divers: £515) from 1 March-30 June

£975 (non-divers: £543) from 1 July-31 October

Includes:

" Airport transfers.

" 7 nights room-only accommodation on a twin/share basis at Hotel Matira.

" 6 days diving (2 boat dives daily), cylinders and weights.

Supplement for 3 boat dives: £36 per day

Meal Plans:

£10 per day for Continental breakfast

£14 per day for American breakfast

£32 per day for breakfast and dinner

£54 per day for breakfast, lunch and dinner

Additional Nights:

Standard Bungalow

£114 (without diving: £42) from 1 January-28/29 February, 1 November-31 December

£120 (without diving: £48) from 1 March-30 June

£125 (without diving: £53) from 1 July-31 October

Garden View Bungalow

£126 (without diving: £54) from 1 January-28/29 February, 1 November-31 December

£132 (without diving: £60) from 1 March-30 June

£137 (without diving: £65) from 1 July-31 October

Lagoon View Bungalow

£135 (without diving: £63) from 1 January-28/29 February, 1 November-31 December

£139 (without diving: £67) from 1 March-30 June

£144 (without diving: £72) from 1 July-31 October

Beach Bungalow

£140 (without diving: £68) from 1 January-28/29 February, 1 November-31 December

£144 (without diving: £72) from 1 March-30 June

£148 (without diving: £76) from 1 July-31 October

Important: those making short stays at Matira Hotel will be charged the additional night price for each night spent at the resort, plus £11 for transfers, plus a supplement of £3 per dive if under 10 dives taken.

Single Occupancy Supplement:

Standard Bungalow

£12 per night from 1 January-28/29 February, 1 November-31 December

£18 per night from 1 March-30 June

£33 per night from 1 July-31 October

Garden View Bungalow

£23 per night from 1 January-28/29 February, 1 November-31 December

£39 per night from 1 March-30 June

£42 per night from 1 July-31 October

Lagoon View Bungalow

£36 per night from 1 January-28/29 February, 1 November-31 December

£55 per night from 1 March-30 June

£58 per night from 1 July-31 October

Beach Bungalow

£54 per night from 1 January-28/29 February, 1 November-31 December

£58 per night from 1 March-30 June

£61 per night from 1 July-31 October

Deposit: £200

FLIGHTS

The airfares shown are the least expensive fare category available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class availability, at the time of booking. The usual airfare deposit is £100.

AIR NEW ZEALAND

Depart from London (Heathrow) on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings via Los Angeles, arriving in Papeete early on Thursday, Saturday, Sunday or Monday morning respectively. Return flights leave Papeete very early in the morning on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday or Sunday, arriving back at London (Heathrow) the following morning.

Concessionary rates are available for connecting flights between Leeds/Bradford, Manchester, Teesside, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Belfast and London. Please contact our office for details.

£795 for departures 16 April-15 June

£833 for departures 16-30 June

£920 for departures 16 January-15 April, 1 October-9 December

£958 for departures 15 August-30 September

£1120 for departures 1-15 January, 1 July-14 August, 24-31 December

£1320 for departures 10-23 December

Includes:

" Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Los Angeles/Papeete/Los Angeles/London(Heathrow) by Air New Zealand.

INTER-ISLAND FLIGHTS

Bora Bora: £183 for scheduled flights Papeete/Bora Bora/Papeete by Air Tahiti. ( £201 between 1 June-31 October.)

Bora Bora & Rangiroa: £369 for scheduled flights Papeete/Bora Bora/Rangiroa/Papeete or vice versa by Air Tahiti. ( £389 between 1 June-31 October.)

Rangiroa: £187 for scheduled flights Papeete/Rangiroa/Papeete by Air Tahiti. ( £201 between 1 June-31 October.)

Fakarava: £187 for scheduled flights Papeete/Fakarava/Papeete by Air Tahiti. ( £201 between 1 June-31 October.)

Rangiroa/Fakarava: £185 for scheduled flights Papeete/Rangiroa and Fakarava/Papeete or vice versa in connection with Tahiti Aggressor cruises. ( £201 between 1 June-31 October.)

Rurutu: £227 for scheduled flights Papeete/Rurutu/Papeete by Air Tahiti.

It is easy to link island destinations, although an overnight stay in Papeete between flights may be necessary. If you would like to visit more than one island contact us and we will work out a workable itinerary and flight costing for you.

Overnights in Papeete: £70 room-only (£76 from 1st June-31st October) at the Tahiti Beachcomber Hotel on a twin/share basis in a Garden View Room. Upgrade to Panoramic Room: £23 (£25 from 1st June-31st October). Single occupancy rates are double. This luxury hotel is just over a kilometre from the airport, is fully air-conditioned and has many facilities including two swimming pools, tennis courts, bars and restaurants (one of which features a Tahitian Dance Show, performed nightly at the water's edge). Please note that airport/hotel transfers are not included: local taxis are safe, readily available and currently cost approximately CFP1500 (about £9) one way.