RANGIROA & FAKARAVA, FRENCH POLYNESIA

Year:2006

The South Pacific's Kingdom of the Pelagics

Season: Year-round diving

Visibility: 25-60 metres

Water temperature: 26-28°C

The Tuamotus lie within the heart of French Polynesia and comprise almost 80 atolls stretching in an arc over 1,500 kilometres long and 500 kilometres wide. None of these 'islands' reaches higher than a few metres above sea-level. Each is individually shaped. Some, like Fakarava and Rangiroa, have their outer rings cut by passes. Some are square, some circular and some irregular. It is here, in the Tuamotus, that pearl culture dominates the economy. These lustrous 'fruits of the sea' range in colour from the palest shade of ivory to dark pewter (the famous black pearls) and are surely some of the most beautiful jewellery a woman can own. There will be simply no excuse for not bringing home a lovely gift if you visit the Tuamotus!

For lovers of pelagic fish and shark species in particular, Rangiroa has some unique and unforgettable dives. This classic atoll, with narrow passages, squeezes water in and out of the lagoon in rhythm with the tidal flow. At Shark Cave at Tiputa Pass divers are dropped at the edge of the reef wall and descend through intensely blue water to a cave entrance at 35 metres. Sheltering from the current in the mouth of the cave, a wondrous show unfolds. Grey Reef Sharks fill the water column from the surface to the sea floor at 45 metres. Claims of several hundreds of these elegant fish may be a little exaggerated, but divers are likely to witness between 30 and 60 individuals. At The Valley , another Tiputa Pass dive, advanced divers will be treated to a really unforgettable experience. Drop to the bottom of the pass at 45 metres and join the Scalloped Hammerheads. The current can whisk you along so that you glide with the sharks and join their procession, gradually rising until you reach some coral boulders where it will be time to leave the sharks and return to the boat.

If you have never had the privilege of meeting those elegant super-predators, Silvertip Sharks, then you should try and get out to La Passe d'Avatoru (Avatoru Pass) where several Silvertip Sharks turn up for a feed of fish brought by the local divemasters. Swooping in from the blue, these sharks will warily circle the bait and then lunge for a tit-bit, making a superb show to be captured as images by those with cameras or, for those without, to etch forever on the memory banks. On rare occasions (mostly during March-May) even Great Hammerhead turns up here!

Fakarava is a huge Tuamotu atoll, comprising a thin strip of land wrapped around a 'rectangle' of lagoon 60 kilometres long and 25 kilometres wide. Happily for us the tourist trail has not yet hit this lovely, out of the way destination and if a genuine sense of wilderness appeals and you are happy to stay in simple but wonderfully positioned beach-side accommodation, you cannot make a better choice. The main 'town' on Fakarava is Rotoava which currently has a population of 248 people. As a measure of Fakarava's remote location, kindly note that there are currently no films available for purchase, there are no post cards, credit cards are not accepted, and food variety is fairly limited. There is no bank, but there is a post office and 3 telephone boxes. If this still appeals, keep reading ...

The atoll is pierced on the north-west side by the Garuae Pass and again on the south-east by the Tumakohua Pass and diving here will soon teach you the true meaning of the Polynesian term 'moana' - deep and intense blue. It is at Garuae Pass where your pelagic dreams will be realized! Spinner Dolphins can be seen leaping and spinning as their name suggests in the waters on the outside of the lagoon. At this enormous pass, over 800 metres wide, you will ride the 'Garuae Express'. Dropping over the back of the boat, you will sink down in the blue until the powerful incoming current will pick you up and sweep you along with a swarm of reef fish. As the reef slope comes into view many inquisitive sharks, including numerous Grey reef Sharks (up to 100 or more) and some massive Silvertip Sharks can be seen gathered in the pass. Once at the reef it is easy to find anchorage amongst the coral rubble to watch, film or photograph this amazing sight, until computers (and the sound of the air horn from the divemaster) indicate that it is time to lift off again. The strength of the current varies with the cycle of the moon and tides, but often creates an exhilarating drift dive needing some experience to manage the speed with control. The coral here is low growing hard coral that can withstand the fast-flowing current. After several minutes of gliding past huge schools of bigeyes, unicornfish, snappers and squirrelfish, the aim is usually to settle down on an anchorage point within a depression in the coral and spend the rest of the dive marvelling at schools of thousands of bigeyes and other reef fish. Try your hand at action art by carving shapes in the school as you swim through the fish, shearing off mini-schools or changing the direction of this fishy mass by a movement of an arm or fin. Divers follow the divemaster as he inflates his SMB and drifts upwards towards the waiting RIB. Manta Rays can also be found in the waters around the pass, and it is not uncommon for dolphins to join you on your dive. In July, Marbled Groupers congregate in vast, swirling schools to breed. The more relaxing Tumakohua Pass has conditions which are easier to handle, but still manages to retain a degree of the wildness found at Garaue. Once again, divers drop into blue water and swim into the pass to be greeted by schools of reef fish including Napoleon Wrasse, Moorish Idols, triggerfish, angelfish of many varieties, Bigeye Trevallys and Forster's Seapikes (a type of barracuda). Once over a ridge at 12 metres, the sea bed slopes away into the lagoon. Peek into a cave at around 28 metres to see the dark-dwelling soldierfish, or take a rest and gaze out into the blue for patrols of Grey Reef Sharks. Within the atoll, the dive is completed, along with schools of goatfish and snappers, beneath the restaurant of the Tetamanu Village Guest House - handy for lunch!

Not far away to the north is the atoll of Toau , only half the size of Fakarava and with only a handful of inhabitants. No airport, no roads: only passing divers visiting. This is virgin territory and here you will find some really big fish and a host of reef dwellers. As the divemaster says, "faune tres riches!" The current here can give you a really spectacular ride with Silvertip Sharks and Dogtooth Tuna often spotted lurking outside the pass.

LES RELAIS DE JOSEPHINE

Three hand-built, wooden-framed, thatched-roof bungalows sit perched in a most romantic setting right on the shore of the Tiputa Pass at Rangiroa atoll. Three more sit a little further back from the shore and have views of the beautiful tropical gardens. Each of these simply furnished, idyllic and very comfortable bungalows has double or twin beds, en-suite bathroom and a patio with sunloungers and chairs. The views over the pass are stunning as this narrow gap in the atoll funnels the water in or out of the lagoon, depending on the tide. Relax on a sunlounger and watch the local fishermen pass by and playful Bottle-nosed Dolphins leaping over the waves. Breakfast is taken on the terrace overlooking the shore and dinner is served in the small dining room, either at the hosts' table, or at a private table. The cuisine is French, but uses local ingredients: try Pacific Fish Soup or Grilled Scampi. Deserts could be Coconut, Chocolate or Rum Tart, or sorbet made from local fruits. No need to stick to beer at Les Relais de Josephine: the hosts invite their guests to study and taste wine ...

Les Relais de Josephine is located near to The 6 Passengers dive centre and guests are collected from the beach each day. Good swimmers can swim just in front of the bungalows, but there is usually a strong current. A choice of more relaxed swimming is available five minutes walk from the property, where there is a choice of swimming in the peaceful lagoon or swimming from the ocean beaches.

For those who want a day off from diving there is a choice of excursions that can be arranged locally. The Blue Lagoon is about a one hour boat trip to the western edge of the atoll. Sparkling white sand and waving palm trees form a background for the most stunning shallow, lapis-lazuli-coloured water you are ever likely to see. Swimming, snorkeling, eating barbecued fish and sunbathing are the main 'activities' here. Les Sables Roses, or Pink Sand Beach, is a little further away, being one and a half to two hours by boat. Coral residues glow beneath the strong sunlight to give the sand a pink rosy glow. Once again, 'activities' include relaxing, swimming and snorkeling.

The 6 Passengers dive centre on Rangiroa atoll is run by Nanou Chapuisat and has been in existence since 1995. With a maximum of only 6 divers per boat, personal service is guaranteed. A RIB goes out to the two passes twice a day, at 0730 and again at 1330, for one dive on each occasion. If four or more divers wish to take a trip to the outside of the reef, or a 2-tank day trip, then a larger boat is used and a supplement is payable. Unless four divers are travelling together and wish to pre-book these dives, it is not possible to pre-book or pre-pay for these special arrangements, which should be made locally. An underwater video service is offered.

£912 (non-divers: £552)

Includes:

" Airport transfers at Rangiroa.

" 6 nights half-board accommodation (breakfast and dinner) on a twin/share basis at Les Relais de Josephine at Rangiroa.

" 5 days diving (2 boat dives daily), cylinders and weights.

Additional Nights: £155 (without diving: £83)

Please note: Those making stays of less than 6 nights at Les Relais de Josephine will be charged £92 per night, plus £39 per dive. Airport transfers are included.

Single Occupancy Supplement: £23 per night (reducing to £21 per night from the 7th night)

Deposit: £200

PENSION HAVAIKI

Simple wooden framed, banana leaf bungalows rest on a fine white coral sandy beach on the outskirts of Rotoava village at Fakarava atoll. Locally made furniture decorates the bungalows, each of which has a shady terrace and stunning views over the turquoise waters of the lagoon. Shower rooms with lavatory and hand washbasin are en-suite. Built amongst tall coconut palms and natural shrubs, Pension Havaiki offers simple half-board accommodation and the owners, Jochim and Clothilde do everything they can to make sure that their guests are happy and well-catered for. Rain water is collected for use in the bathrooms. Picnic lunches can be provided for day trips and a local café is available for lunches. There is no bar, but it is a short cycle ride (bicycles provided free of charge) to the 'supermarket', where you can stock up on cans of beer or bottles of wine which can be chilled in the fridge in the main house. The owners run a small pearl farm, which makes for an interesting visit.

Te Ava Nui (or The Infinite Channel) dive centre takes its name from the Garaue Pass and is situated in the village of Rotoava. The dive boat, Topikite, carries a maximum of 12 divers and is equipped with VHF radio, oxygen cylinders and first aid kit. The dive centre is owned and run by Jean Christophe Lapeyre who places his emphasis on personal attention and tells us "it is the life of Robinson that you will approach!" Two dives per day are offered. Divers will take one dive in the morning and either return to the pension for lunch or relax over a picnic lunch on a deserted island complete with pink or white sand before completing the diving day in the afternoon. One dive will be taken during slack tide exploring the outside rim of the pass, where there is time to study the very rich fish population. The other dive will be an exciting drift dive at one of the passes. Day trips to remote Toau atoll can be made during calm weather.

£838 (non-divers: £406)

Includes:

" Airport transfers at Fakarava.

" 7 nights half-board accommodation (breakfast and dinner) on a twin/share basis at Pension Havaiki at Fakarava.

" 6 days diving (2 boat dives daily), cylinders and weights.

Additional Nights: £130 (without diving: £58)

Important: There is a minimum stay of 3 nights at Pension Havaiki. Those wanting to stay for only one or two nights on Fakarava can do so at the very comfortable Matai Dream resort, which costs £87 per night room-only on a twin/share basis. (Single occupancy supplement £87.) Airport transfers are £16 per person.

Single Occupancy Supplement: £22 per night

Deposit: £200

FLIGHTS

See the preceding Bora Bora entry for flight details and airfares.