Holidays

COCOS ISLAND, COSTA RICA & MALPELO ISLAND, COLOMBIA

Year:2006

The Lost World of the sharks

Cocos Island:

Season: Year-round diving

Visibility: 25-40 metres

Water temperature: 24-26°C

Malpelo Island:

Season: February-July.

Visibility: 10-50 metres (best in the deeper, cooler water)

Water temperature: 15-28°C (thermoclines lower the temperatures at depth)

Far out into the Pacific, 260 miles southwest of Costa Rica, is a lost world rising from the ocean depths. The precipitous cliffs, covered in luxuriant vegetation and decorated with numerous spectacular, cascading waterfalls, are often swathed in mist, giving this remote island a mysterious, other-worldly feel. This is Cocos Island (or Isla del Coco), the Holy Grail at the end of the diver's quest, the veritable 'Kingdom of the Sharks'.

A truly undiscovered paradise awaits the adventurous diver who makes the 36-hour boat journey from the port of Puntarenas. It seems fitting that such a rite of passage should be undergone before one is allowed to experience Cocos, for such a place is not of the modern world with its noise, crowds and pollution it is a relic of a wild, primeval time in the history of our earth, a time that is now long past. As you awake on the first morning after leaving the coast of Costa Rica you will be surrounded by the vast expanse of the sea, with only an occasional seabird to remind you that there is land somewhere out there. By the second evening excitement is reaching fever pitch and then, as dawn breaks next morning, Cocos Island lies dead ahead!

Those in search of uncommon marine life need look no further than Cocos Island. This remote and mountainous island, just 4 miles long with the highest point reaching an amazing 3000 feet, is covered in lush and verdant rainforest. With no human residents apart from temporary marine park and coastguard staff, it is populated by tropical birds, exotic plants and colourful butterflies, many of which are found nowhere else on earth.

Diving Cocos Island is an incredible electrifying, once-in-a-lifetime experience! Many of the dive sites are sheer pinnacles with steep walls where the largest animals are commonplace. Here you can drive your adrenalin levels into overload as you dive amid gliding swarms of Scalloped Hammerheads and White-tip Reef Sharks, sometimes numbering into the hundreds. Grey Reef Sharks are common and even the impressive Oceanic White-tip Shark is a regular visitor here. The huge Whale Shark, which can reach a length of nearly 20 metres, is a frequent visitor to Cocos. These plankton-eating giants of the shark family are completely harmless, but it can sometimes be hard to persuade oneself of this when confronted by a truck-sized creature with a huge broad snout and an immense mouth!

Apart from the ubiquitous sharks, Manta Rays, Marbled Rays, tuna and dolphins are all commonly sighted, while Pilot Whales, False Killer Whales, Marlin and Sailfish have also been sighted here regularly. The enormous but graceful Manta Rays tend to go around alone or in small groups, but if you are fortunate you will see an entire school of their smaller, more sociable cousin, the Pygmy Devil Ray (or Mobula). Although the major attraction here is the fantastic and abundant population of big animals there is also a stunning variety of the smaller creatures of the reef. Frogfish, Snowflake Moray Eels, Harlequin Shrimps and clouds of tropical fish provide excellent subjects for the keen underwater photographer who can bear to drag his or her attention away from the wide-angle lens for a short time! Huge schools of snapper and jacks sometimes blot out the light and the sheer abundance of fish, undiminished by fishing, is the prime reason why Cocos attracts so many large predators.

On most cruises Okeanos Aggressor circumnavigates Cocos Island and off-shore rocks, islets and seamounts are the usual dive sites. You may start your diving amongst the schools of Scalloped Hammerheads at Manuelita , where large gatherings of White-tip Reef Sharks are also a common sight. Dirty Rock (not a rock at all, but an island), also home to hammerheads, often yields sightings of Marbled Rays foraging for food on the seabed. Alcyone , a submerged rock that reaches to within 20 metres of the surface, has provided many sightings of Marlin and Sailfish, while Manta Corner often lives up to its name.

Diving off Cocos Island is for the more experienced diver: thermoclines and upwellings cause a considerable variation in temperature, while unpredictable currents and surface chop are also a feature of diving in this area. Visibility can vary from 25 metres up to 40 metres and dive depths usually range from 15-35 metres. Because the average dive depth is deeper than usual, liveaboards normally features four dives per day at Cocos (including a night dive).

The very best time of year at Cocos Island for sharks and other pelagics is typically June-October, although conditions vary from year to year.

MALPELO ISLAND

The forbidding Malpelo Island is located 360 miles off the coast of Buenaventura, Colombia. A small Colombian naval garrison has been in place since 1986 and Malpelo is now recognized as a Colombian Fauna and Flora Sanctuary, with a marine protected area of six nautical miles around the island.

Malpelo, more of a rock than an island, is the peak of a large submarine volcanic ridge that extends for 150 miles, lying from northeast to southwest. The Malpelo ridge rises from depths of 4000 metres and breaks the surface in just one place: the tiny solitary rock of Malpelo. The rock has three distinct peaks, the highest of which, El Cerro de La Mona, reaches 376 metres. Maritime weather and sea action has eroded the island in its own inimitable style, forming steep cliffs and sea caves along its borders. Off the northern and southern sides of the island are 11 smaller satellite rocks, each with its individually characteristic dive sites.

There are few protected anchorages and the currents that flow through the area are strong. So what is the big attraction? Sharks, lots of them. Big fish in big numbers. At Malpelo divers are treated to schooling Scalloped Hammerheads (in possibly greater concentrations than at Cocos Island), often in shallower areas where cold thermoclines meet warm surface water. Dive sites at Malpelo share some features with Cocos Island; a remote location and dramatic marine life.

At The Altar of the Virgin divers can see hundreds of free swimming moray eels. One of Malpelo's most famous and most common species is the Fine-spotted Moray Eel. They are everywhere: free swimming or in clusters inside crevices. The eels can be found snarling from their rocky lairs, undulating over rocks, or simply gliding sinuously through the water. Dolphins and Manta Rays sightings are not uncommon in this area. Also known as The Reef , this is the part of the island with the least vertical walls. For this reason corals have been able to take a hold and have formed terraces which receive a greater amount of light (so important for their growth). Numerous species of reef fish are thus called to pray at this altar: snappers, sea bass, surgeons, King Angelfish, damselfish, Moorish Idols, eels, Trumpetfish and goatfish congregate here. Schools of barracudas and jacks are also common here and hammerheads are seen on occasion.

Most of Malpelo's dive sites are on the north coast. A group of pinnacles of the northern end, The Three Musketeers , comprises a series of tunnels and caverns filled with silvery baitfish, lobsters, schools of goatfish, grunts, groupers and jacks. One pinnacle has a large tunnel, Cathedral , that passes through it from a sandy bottom at 20 metres until almost reaching the surface on the other side. The walls of this tunnel are completely covered in corals and sponges and the interior is completely fish-filled, including huge aggregations of sweepers, creating a mystic atmosphere. Welcome to church!

Of course it is the shark action that lures divers to Malpelo and shark enthusiasts will certainly be in seventh heaven at The Fridge and Freezer Wall , where dense columns of Scalloped Hammerheads line up in the strong currents off the granite wall. There have been sightings of armies of Black-tipped Reef Sharks, so densely packed that it is impossible to distinguish individuals, and forming a panorama of sharks as far as the eye can see. Large female Hammerhead Sharks bully smaller ones with intimidating displays to win their place at the centre of the school. This area forms a small bay that hosts an important cleaning station for Almaco Jacks and Hammerhead Sharks. A high concentration of Creole Fish, together with a good chance of groups of Spotted Eagle Rays or other pelagics, make this place absolutely incredible, especially when the spectacle is completed by waves of Silky Sharks that can sometimes be counted in the hundreds.

La Gringa is the biggest rock on the south side of Malpelo. There is a cave that passes through part of this pinnacle between 25 and 40 metres. From here, with good visibility, it is possible to see three seamounts. A big school of Bigeye Jacks inhabit the exposed side of the rock where one frequently encounters groups of Scalloped Hammerheads. Sometimes Galapagos Sharks visit this area.

Diving off Malpelo, like Cocos, is for the more experienced diver: thermoclines and upwellings cause a considerable variation in temperature, while unpredictable currents and surface chop are also a feature of diving in this area. Visibility can vary from 10 metres in the warmer, upper levels to 40 or even 50 metres once you have dived below the wiggly disruptions that mark the thermocline. There are no sheltered anchorages and the boat must lay anchor close to the cliff face on the most protected side of the island. Crew members take it in turns to keep watch through the night and make sure that the boat does not drag its anchor and drift too close to the rocks.

UNDERSEA HUNTER

Undersea Hunter , sister ship to Sea Hunter , has six comfortable, air-conditioned cabins, taking a maximum of 14 guests. There are four double cabins and two triple cabins and five heads with showers. Six crew provide superb service throughout the cruise and make sure your diving holiday runs smoothly. The boat is completely equipped with full safety equipment as well as large water storage and water making facilities. She cruises at 9 knots and has a range of 6000 miles.

A large camera/video work station has plenty of space for equipment assembly or preparation and separate rinse tanks are kept for cameras and videos. A full range of dive gear is available for hire. Diving usually takes place from the two 24-foot fibreglass boats or the 18-foot RIB. Both Nitrox and air are provided and there are 4 semi-closed Dolphin Rebreathers. The vessel offers full TDI training in Nitrox and with re-breathers, with rental of Nitrox computers and rebreathing units. Three dives per day are offered from the skiff boats and optional dawn and dusk dives are offered from the mother ship. Divers may chose to dive with their buddy or may dive with the group which is guided by the divemaster.

The menu on board is a combination of American and local dishes. Food is in abundant supply with plenty of fresh tropical fruits and salads. Vegetarians can be catered for with advance notice. Soft drinks are complimentary, and beer and wine are available for sale. Spirits are not available on board but you are welcome to bring your own.

Undersea Hunter operates a series of 10, 11 and 12 nights cruises to Cocos Island out of the harbour at Puntarenas from April to December. It is recommended that you arrive in San Jose, Costa Rica the day before your cruise is due to depart and that you stay one night in San Jose after the cruise returns.

2006 Cruise Schedule: (10 nights unless specified otherwise): 28 January7 February, 10-20 February, 22 February-6 March (12 nights), 8-18 March, 21-31 March. 3-13 April, 16-26 April, 29 April-9 May, 11-23 May (12 nights), 25 May-4 June, 6-18 June (12 nights), 20-30 June, 3-13 July, 16-26 July, 30 July-9 August, 13-23 August, 26 August-5 September, 8-18 September, 21 September-1 October, 4-14 October, 17-27 October, 30 October-9 November, 12-22 November, 25 November5 December, 8-18 December, 23 December-3 January (11 nights).

10 nights cruise

£2003

11 nights cruise

£2203

12 nights cruise

£2403

Includes :

" Transfers between San Jose and Puntarenas.

" 10, 11 or 12 nights cruise on Undersea Hunter on a twin/share or triple/share basis with full board, including non-alcoholic beverages.

" 7, 8 or 9 days diving (usually 3 dives daily, plus dawn/dusk dives), cylinders and weights.

Please note: in addition there is a National Park fee of £151.

Single Occupancy Supplement: If you are travelling alone and are willing to share a twin cabin with a fellow passenger of the same sex you can avoid paying any supplement even if a cabin-mate cannot be found! If you prefer to have a cabin to yourself a 50% supplement applies.

Deposit: £700

SEA HUNTER

Sea Hunter, sister ship to Undersea Hunter, has eight comfortable air-conditioned cabins, taking a maximum of 18 guests. There are six double cabins and two triple cabins each with private head and shower. Seven crew provide superb service throughout the cruise and make sure your diving holiday runs smoothly. The boat is completely equipped with full safety equipment as well as large water storage and water making facilities. She cruises at 10 knots and has a range of 4000 miles.

Sea Hunter operates a series of 10-12 nights cruises to Cocos Island out of the harbour at Puntarenas plus some 12-15 nights trips combining Cocos Island and Malpelo Island. It is recommended that you arrive in San Jose, Costa Rica the day before your cruise is due to depart and that you stay one night in San Jose after the cruise returns.

2006 Cruise Schedule: Cocos Island Cruises (10 nights unless specified otherwise): 7-17 January, 2-12 March, 15-25 March, 17-29 May (12 nights), 20-30 August, 2-12 September, 14-26 September, 28 September-8 October, 11-21 October, 24 October-3 November, 6-16 November, 19-29 November, 3-13 December, 16-26 December, 29 December-8 January. Cocos Island & Malpelo Island Cruises: 28 March-10 April, (13 nights), 13-28 April, (15 nights), 2-14 May with Stan Waterman (12 nights), 1-16 June (15 nights), 19 June-1 July (12 nights), 5-18 July (13 nights), 21 July-2 August (12 nights, rebreather special), 5-17 August (12 nights, rebreather special).

Cocos Island

£2003 for 10 nights cruise

£2343 for 12 nights cruise

Cocos Island & Malpelo Island

£2435 for 12 nights cruise

£2778 for 12 nights cruise (rebreather)

£2590 for 13 nights cruise

£2991 for 15 nights cruise

Includes :

" Transfers between San Jose and Puntarenas.

" 10, 12, 13 or 15 nights cruise on Sea Hunter on a twin/share or triple/share basis with full board, including non-alcoholic beverages.

" 7, 9, 10 or 11 days diving (usually 3 dives daily, plus dawn/dusk dives), cylinders and weights.

Please note: in addition there is a National Park fee of £151 for 10-12 nights cruises, £173 for 13 nights cruises, or £216 for 15 nights cruises.

Deposit: £700 (10 nights cruise); £900 (12-13 nights cruise); £1050 (15 nights cruise).

OKEANOS AGGRESSOR

Okeanos Aggressor has ten very comfortable staterooms, taking a maximum of 22 guests. Nine Deluxe Staterooms have private head and shower, with six having a double lower bed and a single upper bed and three having two single beds. The Quad Stateroom has two double beds and two single beds, and private head, shower and bath, plus an additional bath and shower next door only for use by the triple stateroom occupants. Eight crew provide superb service throughout the cruise and make sure your diving holiday runs smoothly. She is completely equipped with full safety equipment including two radars, weather fax, radios and two hydraulic cranes as well as large water storage and water making facilities. She cruises at 10 knots and has a range of 3000 miles.

The dive deck provides gear lockers and storage space for equipment. Dive information is displayed on a large board which shows depth and marine life information. A large three-tiered camera table has plenty of space for camera assembly or preparation and separate rinse tanks are kept for cameras and videos. The photography department provides rental cameras and accessories as well as the services of the photo pro if you require a model or expert advice. A range of PADI and NAUI speciality courses are offered on Okeanos Aggressor including Nitrox training and facilities. A full range of diving equipment is available for rental by pre-arrangement. Diving usually takes place from the two 18-foot inflatable dinghies, apart from night dives which are conducted directly from the boat.

For after the dive there is a shower and clean towels awaiting, as well as the chef's freshly prepared snacks to appease the after-dive hunger pangs! Delicious barbecues, American-style and local dishes are served; breads, biscuits and baked snacks come strait from the oven. Most meals are served buffet-style.

Okeanos Aggressor operates out of the harbour at Puntarenas for 8 or 10 nights cruises to Cocos Island, departing on Saturdays and Tuesdays respectively, throughout the year. Arrive at the San Jose office (in the Amon Plaza Hotel) by noon on the day of departure.

2006 Cruise Schedule: 8 nights cruises: 7-15 January, 28 January -5 February, 18-26 February, 11-19 March, 1-9 April, 22-10 April, 13-21 May, 3-11 June, 24 June-2 July, 15-23 July, 5-13 August, 26 August-3 September, 16-24 September, 7-15 October, 18-26 November, 9-17 December, 30 December-7 January. 10 nights cruises: 17-27 January, 7-17 February, 28 February-10 March, 21-31 March, 11-21 April , 2-12 May, 23 May-2 June, 13-23 June, 4-14 July, 25 July-4 August, 15-25 August, 5-15 September, September-6 October, 17-27 October, 28 November-8 December, 19-29 December.

8 nights cruise

£1468 in a Quad Stateroom

£1703 in a Deluxe Stateroom

10 nights cruise

£1703 in a Quad Stateroom

£1938 in a Deluxe Stateroom

Includes :

" Transfers between San Jose and Puntarenas.

" 8 nights or 10 nights cruise on Okeanos Aggressor on a twin/share or triple/share basis with full board, including non-alcoholic and local alcoholic beverages.

" 5 days or 7 days diving (4 dives daily, including night dives), cylinders and weights.

Please note: A national park fee of US$175 (8 nights cruises) or US$225 (10 nights cruises), a dive permit fee of US$50 (8 nights cruises) or US$70 (10 nights cruises) and a fuel surcharge of US$100 (subject to change) are not included in the package price and are payable on board in cash.

Non-divers: A £118 reduction applies.

Deposit: £600 (8 nights cruise); £700 (10 nights cruise).

FLIGHTS

As it is not possible to reach the cruise starting point in Puntarenas the same day it is necessary to leave London the previous day and overnight in San Jose en route.

The airfares shown here were available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class availability, at the time of booking. Our quote, which will include all taxes and fuel supplements applicable at the time of quotation, as well as our service charge, may be higher or lower than the airfares indicated here. The usual airfare deposit is £100.

IBERIA

Depart any morning from London (Heathrow), arriving at San Jose, via Madrid, in the evening. You will overnight at an hotel in San Jose prior to the transfer next day to Sea Hunter , Undersea Hunter or Okeanos Aggressor . On the return journey, depart from San Jose in the evening and arrive back at London, via Madrid, the following afternoon.

£637 for departures 1 January-30 June (excluding Easter), 22 August-16 December, 25-31 December

£685 for departures at Easter

£819 for departures 1 July-21 August

£891 for departures 17-24 December

Includes:

" Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Madrid/San Jose/Madrid/London (Heathrow) by Iberia.

CONTINENTAL AIRLINES

Depart any morning from London (Gatwick), arriving at San Jose, via Newark, in the evening. You will overnight at an hotel in San Jose prior to the transfer next day to Sea Hunter , Undersea Hunter or Okeanos Aggressor . On the return journey, depart from San Jose in the early afternoon and arrive back at London, via Houston, the following morning.

Daily flights to San Jose are also available from Birmingham, Manchester, Edinburgh and Glasgow via Newark. An overnight stay in San Jose or Newark is required on the inbound journey.

£753 for departures 1 January-30 April (excluding Easter), 1 November-13 December

£795 for departures 1 May-22 June, 1-31 October

£904 for departures 1-30 September, 25-31 December

£927 for departures at Easter, 23 June-31 August

£936 for departures 14-24 December

Includes:

" Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Newark/San Jose/Houston/London (Heathrow) by Continental Airlines.

Overnights in San Jose: £43 per night bed and breakfast at the Amon Plaza Hotel on a twin/share basis. A single occupancy supplement of £43 per night applies. Please note: Airport/hotel transfers are not included: local taxis are safe and relatively inexpensive.

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