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THE GALAPAGOS
Year:2006
Adventurous diving around Darwin's 'Enchanted Isles'
Season: Year-round diving
Visibility: usually 20-25 metres, but sometimes 5-10 metres
Water temperature: 24-28°C, but down to 17-20°C in some areas
Positioned on the equator some 1,000 km out into the Pacific Ocean from mainland Ecuador lie the islands known as 'las islas encantadas' or 'the enchanted islands'. Here the very tips of huge underwater volcanoes emerge from the ocean and occupy a unique location. The cold Humboldt current from Antarctica and a warm current that runs southwards from Central America intersect over this thin spot in the crust of the earth that still, from time to time, spurts hot lava. The fusion of these two great currents affords divers the intensely exciting experience of encountering penguins and sealions, that may originally have journeyed north from the ice-filled waters of Antarctica, and also angelfish, Moorish Idols and turtles that are more usually associated with warm, coral seas.
Look out for the weird Red-lipped Batfish with its strange leg-like appendages and its unicorn-like spike and also for tiny brown and orange seahorses hiding amid the corals. Bizarrely-shaped Scalloped Hammerhead sharks school in large numbers, sweeping their wide heads backwards and forwards as they patrol, whilst magnificent Manta Rays, their mouths stretched wide and their cephalic fins braced to channel the water, glide quietly by as they scoop up huge quantities of plankton. Diving in the Galapagos is like taking a journey in a time machine: some of the species seem to have stepped straight from prehistoric times and others appear to be so alien that they could have been created on some far-flung planet.
Above the waves, the stark and beautiful islands of the Galapagos are largely unspoilt by development and are carefully protected as one of the most precious of the world's natural showpieces. It was here that Charles Darwin formulated his theories on evolution through natural selection about 150 years ago. Thanks to the isolation of the islands the plants and animals that found their way to the Galapagos developed along their own pathways, giving rise to species quite different from their mainland cousins. In the islands' interiors ancient giant tortoises lumber slowly across the volcanic landscape whilst along the shorelines brightly-coloured Sally Lightfoot crabs dance through the foam. Colonies of Land Iguanas feed on cacti and grasses whilst dark-skinned Marine Iguanas, which can dive down to a depth of 12 metres or more, swim with heads held high above the water or dive to feed on seaweed on the ocean floor.
A check-out dive at North Seymour will get divers used to the currents and thermoclines that can be expected during the course of the week and it may be here that one first encounters an impressive school of hammerheads or the amazing phenomenon of diving with Blue-footed Boobies, gannet-like birds which hit the water like arrows and dive to depth of 5 or 6 metres, leaving a U-shaped trail of bubbles as evidence of their 'flight' through the water.
Shearwaters and petrels skim the waves in great numbers at Roca Redonda . Below the water, near the anchorage site, is a shallow reef area and a sheer rock wall, both of which are subject to strong currents and heavy swell. At about 10 metres, active geysers form sheets of bubbles just like those which stream from a diver's regulator. Barnacles and sponges encrust the warm rocks, so beware of trying to take a hand-hold as the shells are razor sharp! Schools of Yellow-tailed Surgeonfish and King Angelfish are common here where the slope gradually gives way to a volcanic rubble-filled bottom at a depth of about 15 metres. Appearing out of the blue, one or two hammerheads may be joined by more and more until the pack reaches perhaps 60 or 70 in number. These amazing animals, some up to 3 metres in length, frequently swim very close to divers with their scalloped heads sweeping the water as they glide by. Naughty, playful California Sealions (of the Galapagos race) twist and wriggle in the water, their bodies turning and diving with streamlined elegance as if they were made out of rubber. Some less timid individuals may tug on the diver's fins or even grasp at a snorkel! The rocks here are plastered with large sharp barnacles and gloves must be worn to protect the hands.
Crossing the equator to the southern hemisphere, we come to the thrilling dive site of Cabo Marshall on the north-east coast of Isabela, which is famous for its encounters with Manta Rays. Here in the strong currents can be found huge schools of the endemic Black-stripped Salema, White-tip Reef Sharks, Galapagos Sharks and a variety of rays, eels and large groupers.
At Cousin Rock off the east coast of James Island a series of rocky ledges like giant steps are packed with colourful starfish and other invertebrates. A host of reef fish make their homes amongst the profuse growth of Black and Yellow-black Galapagos Corals, while barracudas, creolefish and several species of hawkfish are often found here. It is, however, the exciting selection of larger creatures that are found at this dive site that make it truly memorable. Groups of up to 10 Spotted Eagle Rays glide slowly around, hammerheads often cruise by and Green Turtles, silhouetted against the sun, flap lazily through the water while sealions happily come to play with divers.
One of the finest dive sites to be found around the central islands is Gordon Rocks . Here divers get the unique opportunity of diving within the cone of an old volcano, which once stood proudly above the waves but which over the years has succumbed to the ravages of the wind, rain and sea. Between the two rocks that break the surface are three vertical ridges that come to within 10 to 12 metres of the surface. Marine life abounds and here one can regularly record several species of sharks as well as moray eels, rays, snappers, groupers and large jacks. Turn a corner on these rocks and you are likely to bump into a hammerhead school! Look up and witness the amazing site of a 'flock' of Spotted Eagle Rays flying overhead and perhaps blotting out the sunlight! At about 30 metres the centre of the cone is filled with sand which forms the perfect habitat for a colony of garden eels, shyly peeping out and warily observing the passing marine life. Friendly and curious Galapagos Fur Seals are often encountered here.
Without doubt the finest, most thrilling diving is found around the small islands of Wolf and Darwin , two exceptional dive sites to the north of the equator and well away from the usual cruise itineraries. These two sites live up to their reputation of being 'the' place for big animal encounters. Perhaps because of the remoteness of the area, the animals here show less fear of divers and several people have reported Galapagos Sharks coming to within one metre. Conditions around these remote uninhabited volcanic rock islands can be very variable and there are sometimes big swells. There is no landing point here and boats must anchor in the open water. Below the water an exciting swell can lift and drop divers up and down the water column by up to 5 metres! At about 20 to 30 metres one can often see clouds of hammerheads passing over. The rocks and crevices hold Green Morays and many poisonous and well-camouflaged scorpionfish. Watch the water here and you may see the steely glint of silver combined with sooty black as this is a famous mating site for jacks. The mating ritual involves the male partner turning virtually black and pairing off with a silver female partner. The fish life is so profuse that many divers describe these dive sites as 'wall to wall fish'. It is well worth sitting on a rock, or simply holding on, just as a bird-watcher would settle down in a hide, and simply watching as quietly as possible as the waters of the Galapagos reveal their finest show of creatures great and small parading in their thousands. Some of the diving cruises that visit Wolf and Darwin encounter magnificent and awe-inspiring Whale Sharks, an experience of which every diver dreams. Rays, hammerheads, Green Turtles, Hawksbill Turtles the list is seemingly endless pass by unafraid of the aliens in their midst. Here too Galapagos Penguins, Flightless Cormorants and boobies can be observed gracefully diving in a habitat which they merely 'borrow' in search of food.
Several species of cetaceans can be observed in the waters of Galapagos. Perhaps the most common is the Short-finned Pilot Whale, but Humpback Whales and Sperm Whales are also regularly sighted, particularly to the north and west of Isabela and Fernandina.
Galapagos offers more challenging diving conditions than most destinations. Strong currents, surge and swell can combine with cool waters and occasional spells of poor visibility. Although surface temperatures can reach 27°C in the hottest season (December-March), the presence of thermoclines means that the water at 20 metres is usually considerably cooler and divers are recommended to wear a 5-7 mm wetsuit.
SKY DANCER
The latest addition to the Peter Hughes' Fleet, Sky Dancer , carries a maximum of 16 passengers in 8 staterooms. The four Master Staterooms, situated on the upper (lido) deck, have one queen-sized bed or two single beds, private head and shower and a window view. The four Deluxe Twin Staterooms have two single beds with private head and shower and a porthole view. Each cabin provides a quiet and elegant space for relaxing, reading or sleeping. Towelling robes are provided for your stay on the boat. Clean towels are provided daily and clean sheets are provided mid-week. Complimentary toiletries are placed at the wash basin and each stateroom is provided with a hair dryer. Eight crew offer superb service at all times, from morning coffee in your room to taking your tank at the dive platform on your return to the boat or providing hot towels at the end of a night dive.
The dive deck features a water fountain, mask defogging station, weight belt area, two showers, and a supply of fresh towels. Special rinse tanks for cameras are situated on the dive deck. Dive information is displayed on a large board which shows depth and marine life information. Of special interest to underwater photographers is the spacious multi-tiered, carpeted photo-table complete with cleaning materials. A full camera and video rental service is available at daily or weekly rates. The boat has a photo pro on board who will assist you with your photography and also, if you wish, take a customized video of your diving holiday. Sky Dancer offers Nitrox facilities at an extra charge and a range of courses including PADI Advanced Open Water, IANTD, TDI and PADI Nitrox certification, and Paul Humann Fish and Creature Identification. A full range of diving equipment is available for rental.
After diving most people head for the sundeck where they can relax (either in or out of the sun) and help themselves to iced drinks and delicious snacks. Freshly baked breads and biscuits show up in the morning and appetizers are served in the afternoon. Beverages and snacks are available at all times in the salon (along with a well-stocked bar). Hot breakfasts are cooked to order. Lunch is usually a buffet-style spread and dinner is a waiter-served gourmet feast. Wine is served with dinner and after dinner drinks are always offered.
Sky Dancer operates out of the harbours at Baltra island and San Cristobal on Santa Cruz island for 7 and 10 nights cruises departing throughout the year. 7 and 14 nights cruises depart on Sundays and 10 nights cruises depart on Sundays or Wednesdays. All cruises include Darwin and Wolf, subject to local conditions.
2006 cruise schedule: 7 nights cruises: all weeks not covered by 10/14 nights cruises. 10 nights cruises: 23 January-2 February, 2-12 February, 6-26 March, 16-26 March, 8-18 May, 18-28 May, 24 July-3 August, 3-13 August, 4-14 September, 14-24 September, 25 September-5 October, 5-15 October, 16-26 October, 6-16 November, 16-26 November. 14 nights cruises: 20 August-3 September.
7 nights cruise
£1703 in a Deluxe Twin Stateroom
£1821 in a Master Stateroom
10 nights cruise
£2374 in a Deluxe Twin Stateroom
£2491 in a Master Stateroom
14 nights cruise
£3406 in a Deluxe Twin Stateroom
£3642 in a Master Stateroom
Includes:
" Airport transfers.
" 7, 10 or 14 nights cruise on Sky Dancer on a twin/share basis with full board, including soft drinks, wine, beer and spirits.
" 5, 8 or 12 full days of diving (up to 4 dives per day, including night dives) plus one or two dives on the last day, cylinders and weights.
" Land excursions on some days.
Important: In addition, there is a Galapagos National Park fee of £59, a recompression chamber support fee of £21, and a fuel surcharge of £59 (7 nights cruises), £83 (10 nights cruises) or £118 (14 nights cruise), (subject to change) which must be prepaid.
Divers aged 59 or over (and BSAC members of any age): A 10% discount applies (this discount is also applicable to those actively serving in the military, police or fire service).
Non-divers: A 10% reduction applies.
Additional Cruise: A 10% discount applies.
Single Occupancy Supplement: If you are travelling alone and are willing to share a twin cabin with a fellow passenger of the same sex you can avoid paying any supplement. If you prefer to have a cabin to yourself a 65% supplement applies and the deposit requirement is doubled.
Deposit: £600 (7 nights cruise); £850 (10 nights cruise); £1200 (14 nights cruise).
GALAPAGOS AGGRESSORS
Galapagos Aggressor I and Galapagos Aggressor II are very comfortable liveaboards that each carry a maximum of 14 passengers in seven twin-berth staterooms. Each Deluxe Stateroom has private head and shower and air conditioning with individual climate controls, with six having two single beds and one having a double bed or two single beds. Seven crew provide superb service throughout the cruise and make sure your diving holiday runs smoothly. Between dives guests can relax on the sundeck (either in or out of the shade) or try the amazing hot tub! The salon has an excellent collection of books, videos and music to enjoy.
The dive deck covers the aft third of the main deck. Large gear lockers double as seats and line the rails and centre. Two tanks are mounted at the back of each locker, so it is easy to don your equipment at your seat or ask for the tank to be taken to the dive platform. Dive information is displayed on a large board which shows depth and marine life information. A large three-tiered camera table has plenty of space for camera assembly or preparation and separate rinse tanks are kept for cameras and videos. The photography department provides rental cameras and accessories as well as the services of the photo pro if you require a model or expert advice. A range of PADI and NAUI speciality courses are offered on the Galapagos Aggressors including Nitrox training and facilities. A full range of diving equipment is available for rental by pre-arrangement.
For after the dive there is a freshwater shower and clean towels awaiting, as well as the chef's freshly prepared snacks to appease the after-dive hunger pangs! Delicious barbecues, American-style and local dishes are served; breads, biscuits and baked snacks come strait from the oven. Most meals are served buffet-style.
Galapagos Aggressors I & II operate from the harbours at Baltra island and San Cristobal on Santa Cruz island for 7 nights cruises, departing every Thursday throughout the year. Both boats cover the northern part of the archipelago, including Wolf and Darwin, and offer an average of three dives per day plus one to two land visits daily.
£1849 in a Deluxe Stateroom
Includes:
" 7 nights cruise on Galapagos Aggressor I or II on a twin/share basis with full board, including non-alcoholic and local alcoholic beverages
" 5 full days of diving (an average of 3 dives per day, including night dives) plus one or two dives on the last day, cylinders and weights. In addition, an average of one or two shore excursions daily. Plus services of the boat's naturalists/dive guides.
Please note : A Galapagos National Park fee of US$100 per person and an airport tax of US$25 (subject to change) will be collected in cash on landing at Baltra or San Cristobal Airports. In addition, a port tax of US$70 per person (subject to change) is likewise not included in the package price and will be collected on board.
Non-divers: A £118 reduction applies.
Additional Week: A £118 discount applies.
Single Occupancy Supplement: If you are travelling alone and are willing to share a twin cabin with a fellow passenger of the same sex you can avoid paying any supplement. If you prefer to have a cabin to yourself a 50% supplements applies.
Deposit: £650
FLIGHTS
The airfares shown here were typical economy fares available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class availability, at the time of booking. Our quote, which will include all taxes and fuel supplements applicable at the time of quotation, as well as our service charge, may be higher or lower than the airfares indicated here. The usual airfare deposit is £100.
IBERIA
For Sky Dancer cruises of 7-14 nights, depart from London (Heathrow) on Saturday morning by Iberia, via Madrid, arriving at Guayaquil in the early evening. After an overnight stay at an hotel, you will take an onwards flight to Baltra or San Cristobal in Galapagos the following morning. On the return journey, fly from Baltra or San Cristobal to Guayaquil at around Sunday midday (7 or 14 nights cruise) or Wednesday midday (10 nights cruise). Depart from Guayaquil on Sunday or Wednesday evening, arriving back at London (Heathrow), via Madrid, on Monday or Thursday afternoon.
For Galapagos Aggressor cruises, depart from London (Heathrow) on Wednesday morning by Iberia, via Madrid, arriving at Guayaquil in the early evening. After an overnight stay at an hotel, you will take an onwards flight to Baltra or San Cristobal in Galapagos the following morning. On the return journey, fly from Baltra or San Cristobal to Guayaquil at around Thursday midday. Depart from Guayaquil on Thursday evening, arriving back at London (Heathrow), via Madrid, on Friday afternoon.
The Iberia flights stop in Quito in the afternoon, before reaching Guayaquil, so routing via Quito is a straightforward alternative and the airfares are identical. However, it is not possible to connect to London the same day on the return journey from the Galapagos if travelling via Quito. An overnight stay is required.
£698 for departures 1 January-30 June (excluding Easter), 1-30 September, 1 November-14 December
£744 for departures at Easter, 1-31 October, 25-31 December
£836 for departures 1 July-31 August
£894 for departures 15-24 December
Includes:
" Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Madrid/Guayaquil (or Quito)/Madrid/London (Heathrow) by Iberia.
KLM(
KLM also have a daily service between London and Quito and Guayaquil via Amsterdam, but the onward and return connections to/from Galapagos are not quite so good. Prices are a little higher than Iberia. Connecting flights to Amsterdam are also available from most UK airports. Contact us for price details.
GUAYAQUIL/QUITO-GALAPAGOS FLIGHTS
£239 for Guayaquil departures 1 May-14 June, 15 September-31 October
£264 for Guayaquil departures at all other times
£262 for Quito departures 1 May-14 June, 15 September-31 October
£295 for Quito departures at all other times
Includes:
Scheduled flights Guayaquil or Quito/Baltra or San Cristobal/Guayaquil or Quito by TAME (Transportes Aereos Nacionales Ecuatoriana) or SAN.
Overnights in Guayaquil: £32 per night room-only at the Hotel Continental or similar on a twin/share basis. A single occupancy supplement of £32 per night applies. Please note: Airport/hotel transfers cost £8 each way for two or more people, £16 each way for one person.)
Overnights in Quito: £22 per night room-only at the Hotel Sierra Madre or similar on a twin/share basis. A single occupancy supplement of £22 per night applies. Please note: Airport/hotel transfers cost £8 each way for two or more people, £16 each way for one person.)
Sample Itinerary (including 7 nights liveaboard in the Galapagos)
Day 1 (Saturday for Sky Dancer or Wednesday for Galapagos Aggressor I & II ): Depart London in the morning bound for Guayaquil via Madrid. Arrive in the early evening for an overnight stay. Day 2 (Sunday or Thursday): Fly Guayaquil to Baltra or San Cristobal in the morning. Transfer to liveaboard for 7 nights Galapagos. Days 3-8 (Monday-Saturday or Friday-Wednesday): More than five days diving plus optional land excursions. Day 9 (Sunday or Thursday): Fly Baltra or San Cristobal to Guayaquil at midday. Depart Guayaquil in the early evening bound for London via Madrid. Day 10 (Monday or Friday): Afternoon arrival at London (Heathrow).
COMBINING THE GALAPAGOS WITH BONAIRE
A novel combination made possible by the fact that KLM flights to Quito and Guayaquil stop in Bonaire. Please ask us about possible itineraries.
Reports from previous trips to THE GALAPAGOS:
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