NEW IRELAND, PAPUA NEW GUINEA

Year:2001

Melanesian Magic: the outer limits

Season: Year-round diving (optimum: April-November)

Visibility: 15-40 metres

Water temperature: 28-30°C

New Ireland is a long narrow tropical island that forms part of the Bismarck Archipelago. Situated to the north of the island of New Guinea, it divides the Pacific Ocean from the Bismarck Sea. Off its northwestern tip is the island of New Hanover, whose people were once known for their strange 'cargo-cult' beliefs. The inhabitants came to suppose that with only the correct worship, or magic, ships and planes loaded with goods would arrive for their use! Arching towards the south east, New Ireland points towards the larger island of New Britain and far off Bougainville Island, where political problems mean it is unlikely that visitors will be welcome for some time.

KAVIENG & NEW HANOVER

Situated beside a wonderful natural harbour at the tip of the island of New Ireland is the small provincial town of Kavieng, capital of New Ireland Province. Between here and New Hanover is a truly amazing series of islands, straits and passages that create some really exciting diving: Steffen Strait, Northeast Pass, Planet Channel, Albatross Passage and Byron Strait. Currents can be strong here at times, but as the tide comes in, so too, come the fish to feed and the soft corals bloom in the rich waters. The tidal currents that sweep backwards and forwards between the myriad of tiny islands bring nutrients to tempt the larger fish from their open ocean homes. Although many dive guides emphasize the superb pelagic encounters to be found in the waters off Kavieng, there are also many beautiful and colourful smaller fish and invertebrates. Lagoons and mangroves around the islands form nurseries for many species of fish while sandy shelves, too shallow for large fish to hunt, provide some fascinating dive sites.

Nusa Blowholes near Nusa Island is formed from an eroded limestone costal reef, with blowholes that send fountains of water several metres into the air each time a wave hits the shore. In spite of the surge that is characteristic of this dive site it is one well worth visiting with a long 'wish-list' of creatures to seek, perhaps ranging from the amazing mantis shrimp to a resting Tawny Nurse Shark beneath a rock. Several species of nudibranchs can be found here, many of them very brightly coloured: some green and orange, others in shades of blue and white. Search carefully and you may find the amazing decorator crab, beautifully adorned with small pieces of sponge or seaweed.

Situated in one of the channels between New Ireland and Binnegem Island, Albatross Pass, in Albatross Channel can be subject to strong currents, but on an incoming tide this can be an exhilarating and rewarding dive. The sandy reef top is home to a colony of garden eels, but appears mostly barren due to the wave and current action on its surface. If the current runs too strongly it is worth dropping down the anchor line, hand over hand, until the current becomes weak at about 30 metres. Here, large black coral 'bushes', gorgonians and soft corals decorate the walls and overhangs, and swim-throughs create interesting diving. Grey Reef Sharks are often found here and from time to time are joined by Manta Rays. Barracuda patrol in large schools and beautiful black, silver and gold Teira Batfish seem to enjoy the diver's presence.

It may be a long boat ride out to Silvertip Reef (also known as Valerie's Reef) in the Northeast Pass, close to New Hanover, but it is certainly worth the trip. Initially discovered by Valerie Taylor, this shallow dive on an otherwise fairly unremarkable reef is the place for really close encounters of the Silvertip kind. Divers drop close to the reef surface, above the hard corals, and look around through the water searching for the sharks. It is not long before these creatures appear: first one, then another, then perhaps three or four of these big elegant sharks, swimming in the characteristic 'S' shape and seemingly un-bothered by the divers. Closing to within a metre of two of the divers, the sharks know exactly what they are looking for as they can scent the small piece of fish that is usually brought by the divemaster for their treat! What can be more exhilarating or exciting than being truly so close to these wild and wonderful fish. The dive time simply flies by as the sharks weave about between the coral heads, disappearing into the blue beyond only to suddenly reappear behind one! All too soon it is time to ascend. Watch out. Perhaps the sharks are coming too!

Lissenung Island itself offers some great shore diving and photographic opportunities. At least six species of anemonefish can be found on the 'house reef', as well as many other reef fish including the strange Bigmouth Mackerel (schools of which open their mouths in unison to trawl for food), hawkfish, delightful little Black-tailed Dascyllus and shrimp gobies. Juvenile Black-tip Reef Sharks hunt the border between the sand flat and the reef. At night there are iridescent squid, octopus and numerous shrimps and crabs.

LISSENUNG ISLAND

For those who really want to get away from it all and stay on a tiny tropical island, this has to be the place to stay. The Austrian owner of the dive centre here, Dietmar Amon, also manages a tiny resort comprising only two semi-detached wooden chalets with banana-leaf roofs and offers a maximum of 8 guests the chance to stay on the island itself. It is unusual for there to be full occupancy, and you might even be the only guests here! Lissenung is surrounded by a fringe of beautiful coral sand beach that shelves gently into the warm blue sea. Tall palm trees sway in the breeze and flowering bushes and scrub form a dense fringe of undergrowth that hides the tiny resort from the outside world. Within the fringe of vegetation, in the more open centre of the island, sandy pathways have been formed that link the dive centre, the restaurant, the bungalows and the shower and toilet block.

Bungalows, built in traditional local style on stilts, are reached by climbing several steps to a verandah. The decidedly spartan rooms are furnished simply with two beds, each covered by a mosquito net. Open shelving provides basic storage space for clothes and there is a ceiling fan and simple lighting. Electricity is provided from seven in the morning until about eleven at night. Forget the torch; simply 'feel' your way back to your room in the glorious velvet dark night with the light of the stars and moon to show you the way.

Simple meals are taken in the restaurant area, where there are books, magazines and easy chairs for those moments of relaxation. There are plans for upgrading the accommodation, but as yet they remain simply plans and, if you are the romantic type, it may be better to visit the island now before the 'improvements' take place!

There is one dive boat which takes divers to the various dive sites, taking from 10 minutes up to an hour and a quarter depending on the chosen venue. The boat usually leaves the island in the morning for two or three dives, with lunch and surface intervals being taken on the boat. The boat usually returns to the island some time during the afternoon.

Excellent shore diving and snorkeling is available, as are night dives.

£361 (non-divers: £205) for 5 nights

£454 (non-divers: £246) for 6 nights

£547 (non-divers: £287) for 7 nights

£640 (non-divers: £328) for 8 nights

Includes:

· Transfers between Kavieng and Lissenung Island by open motor boat.

· 5, 6, 7 or 8 nights full-board accommodation, including tea, coffee and orange squash, on a twin/share basis at Lissenung Island.

· 3, 4, 5 or 6 days diving (2 boat dives daily and unlimited use of tanks for shore diving), dive guide on boat dives, cylinders and weights.

Kindly note that divers will be required to pay a local recompression chamber fee of US $2 per day per person.

Supplement if you want 3 boat dives per day: £25 per day.

Additional Nights: £93 (without diving: £41).

Single Occupancy Supplement: £2 per night.

Deposit: £100

MALAGAN BEACH RESORT

Malagan Beach Resort is Kavieng's best hotel and offers a much more comfortable standard of accommodation than the basic but pleasant little 'resort' on Lissenung Island. With its wooden built, air-conditioned rooms and en suite facilities, the Malagan Beach Resort overlooks Kavieng Bay with a view of the islands beyond. Each room has a refrigerator, along with telephone and satellite TV. A pleasant bar and beach-front restaurant offers local and 'continental' meals. The hotel is a few minutes walk from the centre of the town.

Divers who wish to stay at Malagan Beach Resort will dive with Lissenung Island Divers and will be collected by boat from the beach in front of the hotel each morning and returned in the afternoon.

£331 (non-divers: £175) for 5 nights

£418 (non-divers: £210) for 6 nights

£505 (non-divers: £245) for 7 nights

£592 (non-divers: £280) for 8 nights

Includes:

· Airport transfers

· 5, 6, 7 or 8 nights room-only accommodation on a twin/share basis at Malagan Beach Resort.

· 3, 4, 5 or 6 days diving (2 boat dives daily), dive guide, cylinders and weights, including boat transfers between the hotel and Lissenung Island.

Supplement if you want 3 boat dives per day: £25 per day.

Additional Nights: £87 (without diving: £35).

Single Occupancy Supplement: £35 per night.

Deposit: £100

FE BRINA

The refurbished Fe Brina, usually skippered by Alan Raabe, a larger-than-life character and a great pioneer of New Guinea diving, is a smaller, more intimate boat offering a maximum of 12-14 passengers accommodation in 7 cabins, each with a porthole view. The Owner's Stateroom has a double bed, private head and shower and a porthole view. The two Deluxe Cabins have one lower single bed and one upper single bed, private head and shower and a porthole view. The two Deluxe Twin Cabins each have two lower single beds and two upper single beds, a washbasin and a porthole view. The two Twin Cabins have one lower single bed and one upper single bed, a wash basin and a porthole view. The Deluxe Twin Cabins and the Twin Cabins share two bathrooms. Towelling robes are provided for your stay on the boat. Clean towels are provided daily and clean sheets are provided mid-week. Complimentary toiletries are placed at the wash basin and each cabin has a built-in hairdryer. A crew of seven is on hand to look after the divers. All the cabins are located on the lower (Dolphin) deck and have individually-controlled air-conditioning. Fresh towels are provided daily and personal laundry is done every day at no extra charge.

The dive deck features a water fountain, mask defogging station, weight belt area, two showers, and a supply of fresh towels. Special rinse tanks for cameras are situated on the dive deck. Dive information is displayed on a large board which shows depth and marine life information. Of special interest to underwater photographers is the spacious multi-tiered, carpeted photo-table complete with photo supplies and small towels. E-6 processing is available daily. Light tables are always available for slide viewing. A full camera and video rental service is available at daily or weekly rates. The boat has a photo pro on board who will assist you with your photography and also, if you wish, take a customized video of your diving holiday. Fe Brina offers Nitrox facilities and a range of courses including PADI Advanced Open Water certification and Paul Humann Fish and Creature Identification. A full range of diving equipment is available for rental.

After diving most people head for the sundeck where they can relax (either in or out of the sun) and help themselves to iced drinks and delicious snacks. Freshly baked breads and biscuits show up in the morning and appetizers are served in the afternoon. Beverages and snacks are available at all times in the salon (along with a well-stocked bar). Meals are one of the highlights of the day. Hot breakfasts are cooked to order. Lunch is usually a buffet-style spread and dinner is waiter served. Wine is served with dinner.

Fe Brina operates a series of 8-10 nights cruises between northern New Ireland and Kimbe Bay in New Britain, departing from Kavieng in New Ireland or Walindi in New Britain. During August the boat operates a series of exciting 6-8 nights cruises, departing from Kavieng, that explore the channels and islands of northern New Ireland and also make a loop around New Hanover to dive the recently discovered dive sites in that area. Please contact our office for cruise dates and itinerary details. Fe Brina cruises are designed to cater for the more experienced diver or the keen underwater photographer.

6-10 nights cruises

£175 per night for a Twin Cabin.

£181 per night for a Deluxe Twin Cabin.

£195 per night for an Owner's Stateroom or a Deluxe Cabin.

Includes:

· Airport transfers.

· 6 nights, 7 nights, 8 nights, 10 nights cruise on Fe Brina on a twin/share basis with full board, including soft drinks and wine with dinner.

· 4, 5, 6 or 8 full days of diving (up to 4 or 5 dives per day, including night dives) plus one or two dives on the last day, cylinders and weights.

· Port tax.

Additional Cruise: A 10% discount applies.

Single Occupancy Supplement: If you are travelling alone and are willing to share a twin cabin with a fellow passenger of the same sex you can avoid paying any supplement, even if the boat operator cannot find you a cabin-mate! If you prefer to have a cabin to yourself a 50% supplement applies (except in the case of the Twin Cabins, where the single-occupancy supplement is reduced to £59 per night).

Deposit: £500 (6 and 7 nights cruises); £700 (8 and 10 nights cruises).

Important: Additional hotel nights in Kavieng (or Walindi) may be required by those travelling from London to join Fe Brina, depending on the cruise dates. Please see the Malagan Beach Resort (or Walindi Plantation Resort in New Britain) entry for the cost of additional nights there (with or without diving).

FLIGHTS

Depart on Wednesday or Friday evening from London (Heathrow) by Singapore Airlines, arriving at Singapore the following afternoon. Connect with an Air Niugini evening flight to Port Moresby, arriving on Friday or Sunday morning respectively in time for an onwards flight to Kavieng on the island of New Britain. On the return journey you leave Kavieng on Wednesday or Saturday morning and travel via Port Moresby to arrive at Singapore the same evening. After connecting with a Singapore Airlines evening flight, you will arrive at London (Heathrow) on Thursday or Sunday morning respectively.

Flights are also available from Manchester at no extra charge.

£1178 for departures 1 January-5 April, 15 April-30 June, 1 September-9 December.

£1310 for departures 6-14 April, 1 July-31 August, 10-31 December.

Includes:

· Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Singapore/London (Heathrow) by Singapore Airlines.

· Scheduled flights Singapore/Port Moresby/Kavieng/Port Moresby/Singapore by Air Niugini (or by another local carrier between Port Moresby and Kavieng).

Deposit: £100

Business Class Upgrades: These are available between the UK and Singapore at attractive rates. Please contact our office for details.

Travel via Australia: It is also possible to fly to Port Moresby via Australia, with a stop-over in Australia, at equivalent or slightly higher fares. Please contact our office for rates.

SINGAPORE STOP-OVERS

Why not take the opportunity to explore Singapore as part of your holiday? Singapore Airlines fly between London and Singapore daily and stop-overs are available at no additional airfare. We can arrange your hotel accommodation: for details please see the Sipadan entry in this brochure.

COMBINING NEW IRELAND

WITH NEW BRITAIN

Why not extend your holiday in Papua New Guinea and visit New Britain. Walindi Plantation Resort offers a superb range of shore-based diving with marvellous 'macro life' as well as good numbers of big fish. Alternatively take a week on the wonderful Star Dancer out of Rabaul. Liveaboard junkies can really have a ball if they combine a Fe Brina cruise with a Star Dancer cruise! See the New Britain brochure entry for cost details. A small additional airfare will also be applicable. Kindly note that additional hotel nights in Kavieng, Walindi or Rabaul may be required between liveaboard cruises.