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THE GALAPAGOS
Year:2002
Adventurous diving around Darwin's 'Enchanted Isles'
Season: Year-round diving (optimum: November-July)
Visibility: usually 20-25 metres, but sometimes 5-10 metres
Water temperature: 24-28°C, but down to 17-20°C in
some areas
Positioned on the equator some 1,000 km out into the
Pacific Ocean from mainland Ecuador lie the islands known as 'las
islas encantadas' or 'the enchanted islands'. Here the very tips
of huge underwater volcanoes emerge from the ocean and
occupy a unique location. The cold Humboldt current from
Antarctica and a warm current that runs southwards from
Central America intersect over this thin spot in the crust of the
earth that still, from time to time, spurts hot lava. The fusion of
these two great currents affords divers the intensely exciting
experience of encountering penguins and sealions, that may
originally have journeyed north from the ice-filled waters of
Antarctica, and also angelfish, Moorish Idols and turtles that
are more usually associated with warm, coral seas.
Look out for the weird Red-lipped Batfish with its strange
leg-like appendages and its unicorn-like spike and also for
tiny brown and orange seahorses hiding amid the corals.
Bizarrely-shaped Scalloped Hammerhead sharks school in large
numbers, sweeping their wide heads backwards and forwards as they
patrol, whilst magnificent Manta Rays, their mouths
stretched wide and their cephalic fins braced to channel the water,
glide quietly by as they scoop up huge quantities of plankton.
Diving in the Galapagos is like taking a journey in a time
machine: some of the species seem to have stepped straight from
prehistoric times and others appear to be so alien that they
could have been created on some far-flung planet.
Above the waves, the stark and beautiful islands of
the Galapagos are largely unspoilt by development and are
carefully protected as one of the most precious of the world's
natural showpieces. It was here that Charles Darwin formulated
his theories on evolution through natural selection about 150
years ago. Thanks to the isolation of the islands the plants and
animals that found their way to the Galapagos developed
along their own pathways, giving rise to species quite different
from their mainland cousins. In the islands' interiors ancient
giant tortoises lumber slowly across the volcanic landscape
whilst along the shorelines brightly-coloured Sally Lightfoot
crabs dance through the foam. Colonies of Land Iguanas feed on
cacti and grasses whilst dark-skinned Marine Iguanas, which can
dive down to a depth of 12 metres or more, swim with heads
held high above the water or dive to feed on seaweed on the
ocean floor.
A check-out dive at North Seymour will get divers used to
the currents and thermoclines that can be expected during
the course of the week and it may be here that one first
encounters an impressive school of hammerheads or the amazing
phenomenon of diving with Blue-footed Boobies, gannet-like
birds which hit the water like arrows and dive to depth of 5 or
6 metres, leaving a U-shaped trail of bubbles as evidence of
their 'flight' through the water.
Shearwaters and petrels skim the waves in great numbers
at Roca Redonda. Below the water, near the anchorage site, is
a shallow reef area and a sheer rock wall, both of which are
subject to strong currents and heavy swell. At about 10
metres, active geysers form sheets of bubbles just like those which
stream from a diver's regulator. Barnacles and sponges encrust the
warm rocks, so beware of trying to take a hand-hold as the shells
are razor sharp! Schools of Yellow-tailed Surgeonfish and
King Angelfish are common here where the slope gradually
gives way to a volcanic rubble-filled bottom at a depth of about
15 metres. Appearing out of the blue, one or two
hammerheads may be joined by more and more until the pack reaches
perhaps 60 or 70 in number. These amazing animals, some up to
3 metres in length, frequently swim very close to divers with
their scalloped heads sweeping the water as they glide by.
Naughty, playful California Sealions (of the Galapagos race) twist
and wriggle in the water, their bodies turning and diving
with streamlined elegance as if they were made out of rubber.
Some less timid individuals may tug on the diver's fins or even
grasp at a snorkel! The rocks here are plastered with large sharp
barnacles and gloves must be worn to protect the hands.
Crossing the equator to the southern hemisphere, we come
to the thrilling dive site of Cabo Marshall on the north-east
coast of Isabela, which is famous for its encounters with Manta
Rays. Here in the strong currents can be found huge schools of
the endemic Black-stripped Salema, White-tip Reef
Sharks, Galapagos Sharks and a variety of rays, eels and large groupers.
At Cousin Rock off the east coast of James Island a series
of rocky ledges like giant steps are packed with colourful
starfish and other invertebrates. A host of reef fish make their
homes amongst the profuse growth of Black and
Yellow-black Galapagos Corals, while barracudas, creolefish and several
species of hawkfish are often found here. It is, however, the
exciting selection of larger creatures that are found at this dive
site that make it truly memorable. Groups of up to 10 Spotted
Eagle Rays glide slowly around, hammerheads often cruise by
and Green Turtles, silhouetted against the sun, flap lazily
through the water while sealions happily come to play with divers.
One of the finest dive sites to be found around the central
islands is Gordon Rocks. Here divers get the unique
opportunity of diving within the cone of an old volcano, which
once stood proudly above the waves but which over the years
has succumbed to the ravages of the wind, rain and sea.
Between the two rocks that break the surface are three vertical
ridges that come to within 10 to 12 metres of the surface. Marine
life abounds and here one can regularly record several species
of sharks as well as moray eels, rays, snappers, groupers and
large jacks. Turn a corner on these rocks and you are likely to
bump into a hammerhead school! Look up and witness the
amazing site of a 'flock' of Spotted Eagle Rays flying overhead and
perhaps blotting out the sunlight! At about 30 metres the
centre of the cone is filled with sand which forms the perfect
habitat for a colony of garden eels, shyly peeping out and warily
observing the passing marine life. Friendly and curious
Galapagos Fur Seals are often encountered here.
Without doubt the finest, most thrilling diving is found
around the small islands of Wolf and
Darwin, two exceptional dive sites to the north of the equator and well away from the
usual cruise itineraries. These two sites live up to their reputation
of being 'the' place for big animal encounters. Perhaps because
of the remoteness of the area, the animals here show less fear
of divers and several people have reported Galapagos Sharks
coming to within one metre. Conditions around these remote
uninhabited volcanic rock islands can be very variable and
there are sometimes big swells. There is no landing point here
and boats must anchor in the open water. Below the water an
exciting swell can lift and drop divers up and down the water
column by up to 5 metres! At about 20 to 30 metres one can
often see clouds of hammerheads passing over. The rocks and
crevices hold Green Morays and many poisonous and
well-camouflaged scorpionfish. Watch the water here and you may see
the steely glint of silver combined with sooty black as this is a
famous mating site for jacks. The mating ritual involves the
male partner turning virtually black and pairing off with a silver
female partner. The fish life is so profuse that many divers
describe these dive sites as 'wall to wall fish'. It is well worth
sitting on a rock, or simply holding on, just as a
bird-watcher would settle down in a hide, and simply watching as quietly
as possible as the waters of the Galapagos reveal their finest
show of creatures great and small parading in their thousands.
Some of the diving cruises that visit Wolf and Darwin
encounter magnificent and awe-inspiring Whale Sharks, an
experience of which every diver dreams. Rays, hammerheads, Green
Turtles, Hawksbill Turtles the list is seemingly endless pass
by unafraid of the aliens in their midst. Here too Galapagos
Penguins, Flightless Cormorants and boobies can be observed
gracefully diving in a habitat which they merely 'borrow' in
search of food.
Several species of cetaceans can be observed in the waters
of Galapagos. Perhaps the most common is the Pilot Whale,
but Humpback Whales and Sperm Whales are also regularly
sighted, particularly to the north and west of Isabela and Fernandina.
Galapagos offers more challenging diving conditions than
most destinations. Strong currents, surge and swell can combine
with cool waters and occasional spells of poor visibility.
Although surface temperatures can reach 27°C in the hottest season
(December-March), the presence of thermoclines means that
the water at 20 metres is usually considerably cooler and divers
are recommended to wear a 5-7 mm wetsuit.
SKY DANCER
The latest addition to the Peter Hughes' Fleet,
Sky Dancer, carries a maximum of 16 passengers in 8 staterooms. The
four Master Staterooms, situated on the upper (lido) deck, have
one queen-sized bed or two single beds, private head and
shower and a window view. The four Deluxe Twin Staterooms
have two single beds with private head and shower and a
porthole view. Each cabin provides a quiet and elegant space for
relaxing, reading or sleeping. Towelling robes are provided for
your stay on the boat. Clean towels are provided daily and
clean sheets are provided mid-week. Complimentary toiletries
are placed at the wash basin and each stateroom is provided with
a hair dryer. Eight crew offer superb service at all times,
from morning coffee in your room to taking your tank at the
dive platform on your return to the boat or providing hot towels
at the end of a night dive.
The dive deck features a water fountain, mask defogging
station, weight belt area, two showers, and a supply of fresh
towels. Special rinse tanks for cameras are situated on the
dive deck. Dive information is displayed on a large board
which shows depth and marine life information. Of special interest
to underwater photographers is the spacious multi-tiered,
carpeted photo-table complete with photo supplies and small towels.
E-6 processing is available daily. Light tables are always
available for slide viewing. A full camera and video rental service is
available at daily or weekly rates. The boat has a photo pro on
board who will assist you with your photography and also, if you
wish, take a customized video of your diving holiday.
Sky Dancer offers Nitrox facilities at an extra charge and a range of
courses including PADI Advanced Open Water, IANTD, TDI
and PADI Nitrox certification, and Paul Humann Fish and
Creature Identification. A full range of diving equipment is
available for rental.
After diving most people head for the sundeck where they
can relax (either in or out of the sun) and help themselves to
iced drinks and delicious snacks. Freshly baked breads and
biscuits show up in the morning and appetizers are served in the
afternoon. Beverages and snacks are available at all times in
the salon (along with a well-stocked bar). Hot breakfasts are
cooked to order. Lunch is usually a buffet-style spread and dinner is
a waiter-served gourmet feast. Wine is served with dinner
and after dinner drinks are always offered.
Sky Dancer operates out of the harbour at San Cristobal,
Santa Cruz Island for 7 and 10 nights cruises from January-early
July and from late October-December. Seven night cruises
depart on Sundays and 10 night cruises depart on Sundays or
Wednesdays (please see dates below). All cruises include Darwin
and Wolf, subject to local conditions.
A Peter Hughes' Dancer Fleet brochure is available
from our office on request.
7 nights cruise
£1919 in a Deluxe Twin Stateroom.
£1989 in a Master Stateroom.
10 nights cruise (departures: 11 and 21 March, 22 April,
2 May, 10 and 20 June, 25 November and 5 December)
£2692 in a Deluxe Twin Stateroom.
£2763 in a Master Stateroom.
Includes:
· Airport transfers.
· 7 or 10 nights cruise on Sky
Dancer on a twin/share basis with full board, including soft drinks, wine, beer and spirits.
· 5 or 8 full days of diving (up to 4 dives per day,
including night dives) plus one or two dives on the last day, cylinders
and weights.
· Land excursions on some days.
· Galapagos National Park fee and recompression chamber fee.
Non-divers: A 10% reduction applies.
Additional Cruise: A 10% discount applies.
Single Occupancy Supplement: If you are travelling alone
and are willing to share a twin cabin with a fellow passenger of
the same sex you can avoid paying any supplement. If you prefer
to have a cabin to yourself a 50% supplement applies and the
deposit requirement is doubled.
Deposit: £600 (7 nights cruise);
£900 (10 nights cruise).
GALAPAGOS AGGRESSOR I & II
Galapagos Aggressor I and Galapagos Aggressor II
are very comfortable liveaboards that each carry a maximum of 14
passengers in seven twin-berth cabins. Each cabin has one large
lower bed and an upper single bed, private head and shower and
air conditioning with individual climate controls. Seven crew
provide superb service throughout the cruise and make sure
your diving holiday runs smoothly. Between dives guests can
relax on the sundeck (either in or out of the shade) or try the
amazing hot tub! The salon has an excellent collection of
books, videos and music to enjoy.
The dive deck covers the aft third of the main deck. Large
gear lockers double as seats and line the rails and centre. Two
tanks are mounted at the back of each locker, so it is easy to don
your equipment at your seat or ask for the tank to be taken to
the dive platform. Dive information is displayed on a large
board which shows depth and marine life information. A large
three-tiered camera table has plenty of space for camera assembly
or preparation and separate rinse tanks are kept for cameras
and videos. The photography department provides rental
cameras and accessories as well as the services of the photo pro if
you require a model or expert advice. E-6 processing is
available daily. Light tables are always available for slide viewing. A
range of PADI and NAUI speciality courses are offered on
the Galapagos Aggressors including Nitrox training and
facilities. A full range of diving equipment is available for rental by
pre-arrangement.
For after the dive there is a freshwater shower and clean
towels awaiting, as well as the chef's freshly prepared snacks to
appease the after-dive hunger pangs! Delicious barbecues,
American-style and local dishes are served; breads, biscuits and
baked snacks come strait from the oven. Most meals are served
buffet-style.
Galapagos Aggressors I & II operate from the island of
San Cristobal for 7 nights cruises, departing every Thursday
throughout the year. Both boats cover the northern part of the
archipelago, including Wolf and Darwin, and offer an average
of three dives per day plus one to two land visits daily.
A Galapagos Aggressor brochure is available from our
office on request.
£1894
Includes:
· 7 nights cruise on Galapagos Aggressor I
or II on a twin/share basis with full board, including non-alcoholic and local
alcoholic beverages
· 5 full days days of diving (an average of 3 dives per day,
including night dives) plus one or two dives on the last day,
cylinders and weights. In addition, an average of one or two
shore excursions daily. Plus services of the boat's
naturalists/dive guides.
Please note: A Galapagos National Park fee, currently US
$100 per person, and an airport tax, currently US $25 per
person, will be collected in cash on landing at San Cristobal Airport.
Non-divers: A £141 reduction applies.
Additional Week: A £141 discount applies.
Single Occupancy Supplement: If you are travelling alone
and are willing to share a twin cabin with a fellow passenger of
the same sex you can avoid paying any supplement. If you prefer
to have a cabin to yourself a 50% supplements applies.
Deposit: £650
FLIGHTS
The airfares shown are the least expensive fare category
available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the
airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class
availability, at the time of booking. The usual airfare deposit is £100.
KLM
For Sky Dancer cruises of 7 nights, depart from
London (Heathrow) on Friday afternoon by KLM, via Amsterdam,
arriving at Quito in the morning. After an overnight stay at
an hotel, you will take an onwards flight to San Cristobal
in Galapagos the following morning. On the return journey,
fly from San Cristobal to Quito on Sunday morning and then
have an overnight stay in Quito. Depart from Quito on
Monday morning, via Amsterdam, arriving back at London
(Heathrow) on Tuesday morning.
For Sky Dancer cruises of 10 nights, depart from
London (Heathrow) on Friday afternoon by KLM, via Amsterdam,
arriving at Quito in the morning. After an overnight stay at
an hotel, you will take an onwards flight to San Cristobal
in Galapagos the following morning. On the return journey,
fly from San Cristobal to Quito on Wednesday morning and
then have an overnight stay in Quito. Depart from Quito on
Thursday morning, via Amsterdam, arriving back at
London (Heathrow) on Friday morning.
For Galapagos Aggressor cruises, depart from London
(Heathrow) on Tuesday afternoon by KLM, via Amsterdam, arriving
at Quito in the morning. After an overnight stay at an hotel,
you will take an onwards flight to San Cristobal in Galapagos
the following morning. On the return journey, fly from San
Cristobal to Quito on Thursday morning and then have an
overnight stay in Quito. Depart from Quito on Friday morning, via
Amsterdam, arriving back at London (Heathrow) on
Saturday morning.
Flights are also available from the following airports (often
at no extra cost): Aberdeen, Belfast, Birmingham, Bristol,
East Midlands, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Humberside, Manchester,
Newcastle, Norwich, Southampton, Stansted and Teesside.
Please contact our office for further details.
£930 for departures 1 January-30 June, 1 September-14
December, 25-31 December.
£1005 for departures 1 July-31 August, 15-24 December.
Includes:
· Scheduled flights London
(Heathrow)/Amsterdam/Quito/Amsterdam/London (Heathrow) by KLM.
· Scheduled flights Quito/San Cristobal/Quito by
TAME (Transportes Aereos Nacionales Ecuatoriana) or SAN.
Galapagos flights only: For those not taking air
arrangements through us ex-London, we can provide the
Quito-Galapagos-Quito flights for £296 (subject to change).
Overnights in Quito: £22 per night room-only at the
Hotel Sierra Madre or similar on a twin/share basis. A single
occupancy supplement of £22 per night applies. Please note:
Airport/hotel transfers cost £8 each way for two or more
people, £16 each way for one person.)
Sample Itinerary (including 7 nights liveaboard in
the Galapagos)
Day 1 (Friday for Sky Dancer or Tuesday for
Galapagos Aggressor I & II): Depart London in the evening bound for Quito
via Amsterdam.
Day 2 (Saturday or Wednesday): Arrive Quito in the
morning. Overnight Quito.
Day 3 (Sunday or Thursday): Fly Quito-San Cristobal in
the morning. Transfer to liveaboard for 7 nights Galapagos.
Days 4-9 (Monday-Saturday or Friday-Wednesday): More
than five days diving plus optional land excursions.
Day 10 (Sunday or Thursday): Fly San Cristobal-Quito in
the morning. Overnight Quito.
Day 11 (Monday or Friday): Depart Quito in the morning
bound for London via Amsterdam.
Day 12 (Tuesday or Saturday). Morning arrival at
London (Heathrow).
Reports from previous trips to THE GALAPAGOS:
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