WAKATOBI, INDONESIA

Year:2002

Indonesia's paradise island

Season: March to December (optimum April-November)

Visibility: 20-60 metres

Water temperature: 26-29^oC

"Probably the finest diving site in the world", or so Jacques Cousteau is reported to have said about the Tukang Besi archipelago, when he passed through this island group off southeast Sulawesi in Indonesia. Those who have since made the journey to the Wakatobi Dive Resort, opened on the remote island of Tolandono in the mid-1990s, are inclined to agree.

Six degrees south of the Equator in the Tukang Besi National Marine Reserve, and benefiting from the amazing biodiversity of the Banda Sea, the Wakatobi Dive Resort is situated in a remote tropical paradise setting. So remote in fact, that all but a few of the local inhabitants live without electricity, running water and telecommunications. The dive resort's usual greeting is 'Welcome. You may not have reached the edge of the world, but you can see it from here!' Sitting in a picture postcard setting on the edge of a powder sand beach framed with leaning palm trees swaying in the breeze, you are able to enjoy a total sense of freedom and distance from civilization as well as enjoying diving on some of the world's best coral reefs. No traffic, no pollution, no nightclubs, and no crowds.

Early visitors to the Wakatobi Dive Resort had to make their way via Ujung Pandang (recently re-named Makassar) in southwest Sulawesi, fly to Kendari in the southeast and travel onwards to Tolandono by an 18-hour boat journey. Now the resort has built its own airstrip to carry its guests by private charter from Bali, via Makassar, to the neighbouring island of Tomia just a short boat-ride away from the resort.

With over 3,000 species of fish classified so far in the Sulawesi seas, the region is now recognized as the epicentre of marine diversity in the world. The most striking features of Wakatobi's diving are the incredible marine diversity coupled with the pristine condition of the coral reefs.

Diving is on reef walls, seamounts, ridges, and coral gardens stretching out like vast undersea flower gardens. Slopes, reef tops, seagrass beds and sandy floors ­ all provide habitats for a myriad of marine creatures. The closer you look, the more you will see. Soft corals in vibrant reds, pink, purple, orange and yellow extend their flower-like polyps to feed on passing plankton delicacies. Gold, black, yellow and red featherstars cling on to huge barrel sponges and gorgonian sea fans lean out from coral walls. Schools of fusiliers chase up and down the reef's contours in continuous waves of colour.

Some large pelagic fish move seasonally within the area, but Wakatobi does not claim to be a 'big fish' destination. However, when you have your eyes close to the reef studying the array of colour and life to be found there, most divers will forget to look behind them!

The popular dive site named Mari Mabuk, just a 15-minute boat ride from the dive centre, is a long ridge running at right angles to the shoreline and with its peak ranging from a depth of 25 metes to 5 metres under the surface. Huge sea fans, barrel sponges and coral heads are adorned with dazzling feather stars and colourful soft corals blooming in the frequently swift current. Many species of anemonefish (or clownfish) dance in the protection of their host anemones, and who can resist stopping to watch or photograph them? Check out the pink muricella sea fans for pygmy seahorses. Lionfish glide out gracefully from their usual cover to investigate passing divers. Saron shrimps hide in the crevices of coral outcrops.

Roma, close by, is a series of undulating mounds endowed with pristine coral and anemones. A solitary Pinnate Batfish teases the photographer, swimming on before the shutter clicks and returning moments later. Clown Triggerfish seemingly have learned the same prank. Two small bommies covered in corals harbour lots of macro life, one being home to up to seven leaffish: green, white, yellow and black, sometimes 'perching' in a pink sea fan. The rare and beautifully patterned Comet is sometimes seen under reef boulders, but a torch will be needed to locate these dark-loving fish. Along the reef an impressive plate coral formation has earned the name 'the rose' because of the beautiful and unusual shape that it has formed over the years.

A 20-minute boat ride to the neighbouring island of Sawa brings one to the Fan Garden, a wall dive and steep slope with craggy ledges in the upper area. Here you will find lots of pink, orange and red soft corals, purple and orange sea fans, and barrel sponges ­ the latter providing a chance to search out the tiny pink hairy squat lobster that hides away in the crevices, looking like a small piece of discarded angora wool.

Take a gentle drift along Inca's Palette, which begins as a moderate slope and then plummets into the depths with multiple overhangs. Huge leather corals, tube sponges, a giant Tridacna clam and the palette of hard and soft corals are features of this site. To get the most advantage from the dive, drift along when the current is running and the corals open.

At Table Coral City, one of the favourites amongst a plethora of outstanding dive sites, two adjacent seamounts rise to within seven metres of the surface. Swim over an extensive garden of cabbage coral. Sea fans of all colours protrude from the slopes, a gigantic multi-layered pink sea fan taking pride of place close by an equally enormous barrel sponge. A large area of layered table coral gives the site its name. But do not be too distracted by the pristine corals. Spend some time searching out the little creatures like the tiny Mushroom Coral Pipefish, Robust Ghost Pipefish, bold mantis shrimps and beautiful anemone shrimps.

By now you will be wanting to return to the dive sites that you have already marked down as your favourites. The dive operators, however, will be anxious to show you more of their outstanding sites. It is a difficult choice for you. You want to get back to your favourites, but the dive operators are right ­ at Wakatobi the good gets even better! The Blade, comprising a chain of pinnacles towering to heights varying from 25 metres to 6 metres below the surface is arguably the most spectacular and exhilarating dive of all, and is so named because of the sharp edge along the top of the ridge. It is a little over an hour's boat ride from the dive centre, but the journey is justified by the dramatic underwater scenery. Like a fairy-tale castle, the pinnacles are festooned with towering corals, barrel sponges, sea fans and soft corals. The dive ends with a safety stop in the shallows above one of the pinnacles. Here you will want to hang, admiring the panorama and draining every last minute from your dive.

The icing on the cake is Wakatobi's spectacular House Reef. Just 20 metres from your bed you can enter the water and swim just a few fin strokes before you start to encounter Wakatobi's marine life. Even before you reach the seagrass bed, 15 metres from the water's edge, you might have encountered snake eels poking their heads out of the sand and flounders skimming over the sandy bottom. Over the seagrass bed, still with only one or two metres of water above you, the sharp-eyed can observe Robust Ghost Pipefish, Black-lined Filefish and Pavo Razorfish. Then in a short stretch of patch reef check out the Ribbon Eels, Gold-specs Jawfish, the occasional Blue-spotted Ray and the shrimp gobies standing watch whilst their associate blind shrimp works hard excavating their communal burrow. Only 50 metres from the shoreline you reach a gully leading to the drop-off. But before you go over the edge you will want to stop and watch the shoal of resident Bigeye Jacks and spend a few minutes with the Blue-lined Fangblennies that have made their home in ready-made holes in the concrete mooring base. Down now to 12 metres for the house reef's pièce de résistance ­ an un-named species of pygmy seahorse, resident on a sea fan! So much to see and you've only just reached the drop-off. A gentle drift along the craggy wall reveals beautiful pristine corals, anemones with their anemonefish friends, Periclimenes shrimps and porcelain crab guests, nudibranchs, scorpionfish, lionfish and batfish. Do not forget to keep a watchful eye out towards the blue ­ turtles and eagle rays are frequently seen here. Needless to say, night dives along this wall are an explosion of colour. Try them!

WAKATOBI DIVE RESORT

The environmentally-friendly Wakatobi Dive Resort was founded by Lorënz Mader, a Swiss eco-pioneer who, disappointed by the influences of mass tourism, set out to pursue his dream of setting a better example in virgin territory, unspoilt by overcrowding and pollution. The traditional architecture of the Indonesian longhouse and the four Grand Bungalows embrace sound ecotourism principles and were all constructed by local craftsmen using traditional hand tools.

The longhouse building contains 7 guest rooms at first floor level accessed from a balcony overlooking the sea. The rooms are simply furnished but clean, each being equipped with two single beds, mosquito nets (though mosquitoes are a rarity), ceiling fan, bedside and writing tables, reading lamp, generous hanging space and storage cupboard. (Note: the room walls in the longhouse are thin, so privacy is somewhat limited!) Toilets, washroom and shower amenities with hot and cold water are provided in a separate area at ground level with separate facilities for men and women. In contrast, four spacious beach side Grand Bungalows have en-suite bathrooms, ocean-side verandas, a king-size bed (or twin single beds on request), ceiling fans and a generous provision of furniture.

The dive centre briefing point, equipment rooms, gear rental store and camera room with well-equipped workstations and 220v charging points are within the longhouse at ground level. At a slightly elevated position in the longhouse the dining hall and lounge area occupy a prominent position overlooking the sea.

The resort has its own gourmet chef preparing local and international cuisine. With three cooked meals a day and snacks in between, guests are unlikely to go hungry. Fresh vegetables and fruit are bought regularly from markets on the mainland and, in accord with the resort's conservation principles, only pelagic fish bought from local fishermen and caught by hook and line are served at the table. Typically, evening dinner would be sushi, soup, fish, savoury rice and vegetables followed by an exotic dessert and fruit. Coffee and tea are available round the clock.

Two pre-lunch boat dives, accompanied by divemasters who are familiar with the dive sites, are included. On the first dive of your holiday you will be asked to demonstrate your buoyancy, air-sharing and mask-clearing skills. There are no petty diving restrictions, but divers are urged to comply with safe diving and reef protection practices. Within your safety limits take your time. Few other resorts will ask you to limit your dive time to 75 minutes. Unlimited diving on the extensive house reef is available throughout the day ­ and night! Tender boats are on stand-by in the afternoon to facilitate easy access to all sections of the house reef.

Snorkelers are welcome at Wakatobi Dive Resort (the non-diver price is applicable).

Wakatobi Dive Resort offers a series of 10, 11 and 14 nights stays from March to December. Your first day starts with an early morning scheduled Garuda Airlines flight from Denpasar to Makassar, followed by a charter flight (1 hour and 40 minutes) to Tomia. After a short drive to the jetty, a 20 minute boat ride will bring you to Wakatobi. On the return journey clients leave Wakatobi in the morning and are due to arrive back in Denpasar in the early evening. Overnight stays in Denpasar are therefore generally required before and after Wakatobi trips.

2002 Itineraries

10 nights stays: 12-22 March, 16-26 April, 21-31 May, 25 June-5 July, 30 July-9 August, 3-13 September, 8-18 October, 12-22 November, 17-27 December.

11 nights stays: 22 March-2 April, 26 April-7 May, 31 May -11 June, 5-16 July, 9-20 August, 13-24 September, 18-29 October, 22 November-3 December.

14 nights stays: 2-16 April, 7-21 May, 11-25 June, 16-30 July, 20 August- 3 September, 24 September-8 October, 29 October-12 November, 3-17 December.

10 nights stay

£1680 (non-divers £1118) in a Standard Room in Longhouse

£2031 (non-divers £1470) in a Grand Bungalow

11 nights stay

£1786 (non-divers £1168) in a Standard Room in Longhouse

£2137 (non-divers £1519) in a Grand Bungalow

14 nights stay

£2102 (non-divers £1315) in a Standard Room in Longhouse

£2523 (non-divers £1736) in a Grand Bungalow

Includes:

· Air and boat transfers between Denpasar Airport, Bali and Wakatobi Dive Resort.

· 10, 11 or 14 nights full board accommodation on a twin/share basis, including coffee, tea and biscuits 24 hours per day.

· 9, 10 or 13 days diving (2 boat dives daily plus daily afternoon house reef tender boats and unlimited shore diving tanks 24 hours per day), dive guide for boat dives, cylinders and weights.

Important: On the Makassar/Tomia flights there is a 125 kgs per person total weight allowance, including your personal body weight, hold luggage and hand baggage! Usually extra weight allowance can be allocated.

Single Occupancy Supplement: If you are travelling alone and are willing to share a room with someone of the same sex you can avoid paying any supplement. If you prefer to have a room or bungalow to yourself a the following supplements apply:

10 nights stay

£847 in a Standard Room in Longhouse

£1320 in a Grand Bungalow

11 nights stay

£974 in a Standard Room in Longhouse

£1389 in a Grand Bungalow

14 nights stay

£1155 in a Standard Room in Longhouse

£1645 in a Grand Bungalow

Deposit: £600 (Standard Room in Longhouse); £700 (Grand Bungalow).

FLIGHTS

The airfares shown are the least expensive fare category available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class availability, at the time of booking. The usual airfare deposit is £100.

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

Daily midday departures from London (Heathrow) to Denpasar via Singapore, arriving the following afternoon. There are daily return flights in the evening from Denpasar, via Singapore, arriving at London (Heathrow) the following morning.

Flights are available from Manchester at no additional charge.

£608 for departures 1 January-21 March, 1 April-30 June, 1 September-9 December.

£795 for departures 22-31 March, 1 July-31 August, 10-31 December.

Includes:

· Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Singapore/Denpasar/Singapore/London (Heathrow) by Singapore Airlines.

MALAYSIA AIRLINES

Daily midday departures from London (Heathrow) to Denpasar via Kuala Lumpur, arriving the following afternoon. There are daily return flights in the afternoon from Denpasar, via Kuala Lumpur, arriving at London (Heathrow) the following morning.

Flight connections are also available from Manchester to Denpasar at no additional charge. Flights depart from Manchester on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. Return flights leave Denpasar on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays.

£624 for departures 1 January-21 March, 1 April-30 June, 16 August-9 December, 25-31 December.

£686 for departures 22- 31 March.

£861 for departures 1 July-15 August, 10-24 December.

Includes:

· Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Kuala Lumpur/Denpasar/Kuala Lumpur/London (Heathrow) by Malaysia Airlines.

Business Class Upgrades: These are available on Malaysia Airlines between the UK and Denpasar at attractive rates. Please contact our office for details.

Overnights in Bali: £20 per night bed and breakfast on a twin/share basis at the Sativa Hotel, Sanur. This pleasant hotel comprises mostly detached bungalows in Balinese style. Rooms are well-appointed with en-suite facilities, air conditioning and a balcony or veranda overlooking the landscaped swimming pool. The Rose Restaurant serves European, Chinese and local specialities, while the unique William Bar, a sunken bar in the pool, provides drinks and light snacks. Other facilities include safety deposit box, 24 hour reception, room service, money changing facilities, fax service and car rental. A single supplement £20 per night applies. Please note: pre-arranged airport/hotel transfers cost £5 each way per person or per couple.

SINGAPORE STOP-OVERS

Why not take the opportunity to explore Singapore as part of your holiday? Singapore Airlines and Malaysia Airlines fly between London and Singapore daily and stop-overs are available at no additional airfare. We can arrange your hotel accommodation: for details please see the Sipadan entry in this brochure.

COMBINING WAKATOBI

WITH BALI OR KOMODO

As all holidays to Wakatobi start and end in Denpasar, Bali, why not add on some time exploring the diving available in Bali or cruise by liveaboard to remote Komodo. Simply add the cost of your chosen Bali or Komodo diving holiday to the cost of your Wakatobi adventure and include the cost of any necessary additional overnight stays along with the cost of international flights.

BALI