WALKER'S CAY, BAHAMAS

Year:2003

An awesome shark experience!

Season: Year-round diving

Visibility: 20-30 metres

Water temperature: 28-31°C in July-September, falling to 20-24°C in December-March

Just 220 kilometres southwest of Fort Lauderdale in Florida, at the northern tip of the Bahamas, lies the exclusive and isolated tropical island of Walker's Cay. The action starts early when Walker's Cay is your destination, for many visitors reach this tiny private island by seaplane, landing in the ocean just offshore! After the spray has settled, the plane has driven up the landing ramp to the miniscule 'terminal' and you first set foot on the island, you are sure to be delighted by this lovely informal resort. On this 100-acre island can be found an airstrip, a good hotel, a few small villas, a dive centre and a small marina. The island can be walked from one end to the other in less than half an hour but you are more likely to linger on the beach listening to the splash of the sea and the rustle of the palm trees. Here there is no industry other than diving and fishing, no crowds, no cars ­ just the sea and a small coral island.

The northernmost inhabited island in the Bahamian chain, Walker's Cay is situated on the large and shallow Little Bahama Bank that is fringed by an extensive barrier reef. The dive sites are close together, many just a ten minutes boat ride away from the dock. Twenty minutes is the longest you can expect to spend getting to a dive site. Spectacular fish encounters are possible with frequent sitings of African Pompano, Amberjacks and the elegant Atlantic Spadefish. Large Nassau Groupers are particularly friendly in these waters!

By far the most famous dive at Walker's Cay is Shark Rodeo, which usually attracts between 50 and 120 of these beautiful and fascinating creatures. Shark Rodeo was designed to give divers the finest views of sharks and yet prevent the sharks directly associating the proffered food with divers. The bait is a frozen barrelful of fishheads, known as the 'chumsicle' (a combination of chum, a kind of fish bait, and icicle). Even as you back-roll off the boat and into the water you know that this dive is going to be something really special, for as soon as the bubbles clear you realize that you are poised directly above a mass of gathering sharks, cruising round and round not far below! This is the moment when, no matter how many times one has heard what harmless creatures sharks are as regards divers, the adrenalin gets really pumping and that primeval fear starts knocking at the neural gates! However, there really is nothing to worry about as 'the kids', as Gary Adkison, founder of the Walker's Cay shark programme, likes to call them, are all very well-behaved and much more interested in the chumsicle than in you.

First you descend through the gathering and circling sharks to a sandy sea bed at about 12 metres to await the arrival of the chumsicle, all the time enjoying wonderful close-up views of nature's top marine predators. After the chumsicle is lowered into the water and anchored you are free to swim around with the cruising sharks, the only restriction being that you must keep at least 6 metres (20 feet) away from the chumsicle itself so that there is no risk of being jostled by the feeding sharks. Only a small percentage of sharks actively investigate or feed on the chumsicle at any one time, but this is where the action is at its hottest. There will be fins above, below and at the side of you and it is essential that you follow the rule of keeping at a safe distance. The majority of the sharks swim leisurely around on the outside of the scrum, giving divers an excellent opportunity to take a close look and observe some fascinating aspects of shark behaviour. Would you believe that some of the sharks on the periphery of the feed actually start to yawn? This amazing phenomenon resembles the lazy, powerful yawn of lions, starting near the dorsal fin, rippling forwards and ending with a superb view of those incredible teeth and jaws! As the sharks swim by, observe the remarkably cat-like pupil of their eyes and the fine structure of the 'nose' that allows the shark to detect the most minute electrical impulses caused by the movement of their prey. One is constantly struck by their powerful but elegant beauty. You can even stroke the passing sharks, feeling their rather rough skins, as they pass close by. They seem largely unconcerned by one's presence, or perhaps simply treat one as yet another predator at the feast.

Once the feed is over and the sharks disperse you can search the surface of the sand for the shark teeth that have fallen out while the sharks fed (a natural process, for sharks constantly renew their teeth). What a superb souvenir of this amazing shark encounter! By the time you are back in the boat you will feel that you have experienced something truly awesome, a rare privilege, and you are sure to have become a lifelong ambassador for the much-misunderstood shark.

The Walker's Cay Shark Rodeo is such a unique experience that several universities and aquariums conduct long term studies here. Many of the sharks have been marked with digital tags that allow for an electronic roll-call as part of these studies. The most numerous visitors at the feed are Caribbean Reef and Black-tip Reef Sharks, but there are also smaller numbers of Spinner and Nurse Sharks, plus a few Bull Sharks. Other species which occasionally show up to join the fun include Lemon Shark, Tiger Shark and Scalloped Hammerhead. Walker's Cay offer a PADI Speciality Shark Awareness Course which is well worth signing up for.

Fascinating though it is, there is far more to Walker's Cay than the shark dive. The reefs grow on top of fossilized coral that forms limestone buttresses full of crevices and caverns. In several places you can actually swim through the reef. Every diving destination has its Coral Gardens and so does Walker's Cay. Here a 3-metre diameter brain coral (so old it started life before the Declaration of Independence!) sits on the edge of the reef. A Loggerhead Turtle, groupers, surgeonfish and jacks also reside nearby. At Shark Alley, Caribbean Reef Sharks along with solitary-cruising Black-tip Reef Sharks may be found and wonderful Spotted Eagle Rays can be seen lifting off from the sand. Here, too, you should find Queen Triggerfish, Yellowfin Groupers and Queen Angelfish. For the wreck enthusiast there are the ghostly remains of the tugboats Dorothy H and Esther K to explore, as well as the wreck of the Don Jose Evangelista, a Spanish galleon dating back to the 1750s. When you need a change from coral or wrecks, a Deep Float Dive can provide yet more variation. Outside the barrier reef depths range from 20-35 metres. Hang out in the blue and just wait to see what comes your way, whether it is a school of Crevalle Jacks or Atlantic Spadefish or a really big pelagic. When the weather is calm the divemasters sometimes take advantage of this and plan a day on one of the deserted islands, with two boat dives in the morning and lunch of conch salad and locally caught lobster cooked on the barbecue on board the dive boat. Don't forget to put a couple of beers in the cool box on the boat; they will certainly be welcome when the diving is over!

WALKER'S CAY RESORT

The island is never crowded for there are only 62 rooms in the hotel. Each room has air-conditioning, private bathroom (with either shower or bath) and either double or twin beds. Although you may not find a telephone or television in your room you will find pleasing views from the balcony, peace and quiet and a staff of friendly, helpful locals. A freshwater swimming pool with a jacuzzi and a saltwater pool offer guests the chance for a refreshing dip. There is a tennis court, lawn games and and entertainment room. The Conch Pearl Restaurant in the hotel serves Bahamian specialities and American dishes for breakfast and dinner. There is also a bar where one can either take one's drink outside in the warm tropical evening air or inside in air-conditioned comfort and a small gift shop. Down by the marina slipway is the dive shop, the charter fishing office, the grocery store, the off-license (selling beer, spirits and a limited selection of wines) and the Lobster Trap Restaurant. A lunch menu of salads, freshly-caught seafood and local favourites is offered at the latter and in the evenings there is sometimes live music.

Not only is Walker's Cay one of the most exciting dive venues in the Caribbean region, but for those with non-diving partners or families who want a restful and relaxing holiday, this luxurious but informal resort makes an ideal choice. Gary and his team are very flexible and partners and children are welcome to travel on the dive boats and can easily be taken to good snorkeling sites or landed on one of the tiny uninhabited islands for a picnic or some exploration.

A short walk from your room will bring you to the Sea Below Dive Center. Three boats: Sea Vista, Sea Below and Sea View are each equipped with head, fresh drinking water and fresh water rinse tanks as well as VHF radio, iced water, cooler box and towels. Each boat can take up to 16 divers in comfort. The dive shop offers equipment rental, including 35mm camera hire. Manager Gary Adkison and his assistant manager Barry Albury are one of the finest teams in the business. They both have an infectious enthusiasm and a knowledge of the reefs that they truly enjoy sharing with you. They are supported by a fine team of boatmen and divemasters making sure that professionalism is the key word on Walker's Cay. Boats usually leave the dock at 0900 each morning for a two-tank dive and again at 1400 for a one-tank afternoon dive. Surface intervals are relatively short, but most dives are fairly shallow. Night diving can be arranged locally. On picnic dive days only two dives are offered as the afternoon is spent at one of the offshore islands for a long barbecue lunch, snorkeling or exploring.

£634 (non-divers: £530) for 4 nights

£745 (non-divers: £614) for 5 nights

£856 (non-divers: £698) for 6 nights

£967 (non-divers: £782) for 7 nights

Includes:

· Flights from Fort Lauderdale/Walker's Cay/Fort Lauderdale by Chalk's Ocean Airways (some flights by seaplane).

· 4, 5, 6 or 7 nights half-board (i.e. breakfast and dinner) accommodation on a twin/share basis at Walker's Cay Hotel.

· 3, 4, 5 or 6 days diving (typically 3 boat dives daily including a 2-tank morning dive and 1-tank afternoon dive), dive guide, cylinders and weights. In addition one dive is often provided on the day of arrival, subject to air schedules.

·At least one shark dive per stay (and often two or more if staying a week or more).

Night diving is available on request locally at an additional charge.

Additional Nights: £111 (without diving: £84)

Single Occupancy Supplement: £56 per night.

Deposit: £100

FLIGHTS

The airfares shown are the least expensive fare category available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class availability, at the time of booking. The usual airfare deposit is £100.

AMERICAN AIRLINES

Depart from London (Heathrow) on any morning except Monday by American Airlines, arriving at Miami in mid-afternoon. After an overnight stay in Fort Lauderdale, depart for Walker's Cay by Chalk's Ocean Airways in the morning. Return any day except Tuesday from Walker's Cay via Fort Lauderdale and Miami, arriving at London (Heathrow) the following morning.

An overnight stay is required in Fort Lauderdale on the outbound journey as the Chalk's Ocean Airways flight to Walker's Cay leaves at lunchtime on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, in the morning on Saturday and in the afternoon on Sunday. (There is no flight on Tuesday.)

£370 for departures 1 January-30 April (excluding Easter), 1 November-19 December.

£470 for departures 25-31 December.

£570 for departures 1 May-30 June, 1 September-31 October.

£615 for departures at Easter.

£695 for departures 1 July-31 August, 20-24 December.

Weekend Supplement: Up to £12 each way for departures from London or Miami on Fridays, Saturdays or Sundays.

Includes:

· Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Miami/London (Heathrow) by American Airlines.

Overnights in Fort Lauderdale: £49 per night at the comfortable Waterfront Inns Beach Resort, on a twin/share basis with continental breakfast.(Single occupancy supplement: £49.) The fastest and most convenient way to make the transfers between Miami International Airport and the Fort Lauderdale Airport or the Waterfront Inns Beach Resort in Fort Lauderdale is by taxi, which costs around US$65.00 one-way and takes about 50-60 minutes. (The Waterfront Inns Beach Resort will provide the transfer to the Chalk's Ocean Airways terminal at Fort Lauderdale Airport on the day you fly to Walker's Cay at no extra charge.)

COMBINING WALKER'S CAY WITH THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS OR THE CAYMAN ISLANDS

Providing you pass through Miami en route to the Turks & Caicos or the Caymans, it is very easy to combine a visit to these marvellous islands with a visit to Walker's Cay. Simply add the total cost of a holiday in the Turks & Caicos or the Caymans, including airfare, to the cost of a stay at Walker's Cay. In addition, there is a Miami airline stopover charge of £50.

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