THE MANATEES OF CRYSTAL RIVER, FLORIDA

Year:2003

Sirens from the Gulf of Mexico

Season: November-March

Visibility: 20-30 metres

Water temperature: 20-22°C

Crystal River is the winter home of the largest concentration of West Indian Manatees in North America. Each year hundreds of these weird, shy, huge but strangely pathetic-looking mammals migrate from the Gulf of Mexico up Florida's Crystal River to the warmth of its hot freshwater springs.

The West Indian Manatee (Trichechus manatus), or Sea Cow, adult averages 3 to 3.5 metres in length and weighs in at 500 kilograms! Males and females are similar in size and appearance. Their plump, grey-brown, finely wrinkled bodies have a sparse covering of short hair which is often covered by algal growth, while the bodies often show scars and even have attached barnacles. With their bristly moustaches there is little doubt that they possess a certain appeal, but it is difficult to understand how sailors in the past mistook these inelegant creatures for mermaids ­ perhaps liberal doses of rum enhanced their imaginations!

Although manatees are not particularly gregarious, they do form large groups near warm water sources, especially during the cold weather (they cannot survive prolonged exposure to water temperatures lower than 20°C). Mothers and calves stay together for several months after weaning and, as mating has been observed throughout the year and there is no distinct calving season, there is always a chance to see young manatees.

Manatees can cruise at speeds of 4-10 kilometres per hour and have an average dive time of 4 minutes, but at Crystal River, where they have been well looked after and respected, they are quite used to humans and allow snorkelers to come close, even interacting with them on occasion.

Manatees are very sensitive to movement and sound and so diving is not allowed in the vicinity. Snorkeling, however, offers the the opportunity for fabulous observation and photography of these curious and playful mammals. It is against the law to pursue or frighten the manatees in any way, so if they are sleeping on the bottom or eating, they should be left alone.

Florida's winter morning light seeps through the thick skeins of lichens hanging from the trees. At first the atmosphere is almost eerie as the boat pushes quietly through the waters of the channel. Moorhens and ducks paddle in a determined way avoiding the boat and herons and egrets stare silently into the water hoping for a good breakfast, unmoved by the ripples from the wake of the boat. Look out for alligator eyes peeping at you from the water near the bank! Soon the channel opens out and there, in the shallow water beneath the boat, are large ungainly bodies: the manatees. It's time to grab your snorkel and fins and slip quietly and calmly into the water with them.

Manatee snorkeling tours are offered at 0630 and 1100 every day (but it is the early tour that offers the best opportunities!). The boat tours last for 3 hours and commence with a video on 'manatee manners'. Water time is about 2 hours and the manatees are usually found in water depths of about 3 metres. The tours are supervised to ensure that everyone gets the best manatee encounters possible. Children are accepted on the tours from any age, but must be supervised by their parents. As these trips represent a very popular local pastime, weekends can be busy and are best avoided. Taking snorkeling tours on at least two days, preferably mid-week, is recommended, especially for photographers who are keen to get that special shot!

PLANTATION INN

Plantation Inn is built in colonial style, with wide white wooden painted verandahs, and is positioned on an inlet of the Crystal River. Attractively situated in over 200 acres of rolling landscaped lawns, gardens and woods of Live Oaks and Emerald Pines, Plantation Inn also doubles as a golfing resort. (For those who might be interested in golf, the resort has a par-72, 18-hole championship course and a 9-hole executive course for training and practice.) The inn houses 126 guest rooms and has tennis and croquet courts, an open-air bar and grill. The Savannah Room serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. For a relaxed drink in the evening, try a visit to the Library Piano Bar.

The spacious and elegantly furnished, air-conditioned standard rooms have two double beds and an en-suite bathroom. Patio rooms, situated on the ground floor, have either one king-sized bed or two double beds and small refrigerator. They have sliding glass doors leading to a private verandah with chairs and a small table. All rooms have tea and coffee making facilities, hairdryers, irons and ironing boards and complimentary bottled water. There is no charge for two children up to the age of 16 years old sharing a room with their parents.

Plantation Inn is situated at the settlement of Crystal River, not far from Florida's Gulf of Mexico coast. The nearest airports are Tampa (one and a quarter hours drive) and Orlando (one and a half hours drive). Both airports are served by direct flights from London. Miami is a five or six hour drive away, or you can fly up to Tampa or Orlando and then drive. Car hire from any airport can be arranged through our office.

Standard Room

£99 from 1 November - 31 December.

£123 from 1 January - 31 March.

Patio Room

£114 from 1 November-31 December.

£138 from 1 January-31 March.

Includes:

· 3 nights room-only accommodation on a twin/share basis at Plantation Inn.

Please note: transfers between Tampa or Orlando airport and the Plantation Inn are not included. The simplest option is to rent a self-drive car for the duration of your visit. We will be happy to quote for this and arrange the rental on request. In addition, manatee boat trips are not included. The cost is currently US $25 per trip (this rate applies if there is a minimum of three people taking the trip), payable locally.

Additional Nights:

Standard Room

£33 from 1 November - 31 December.

£41 from 1 January - 31 March.

Patio Room

£38 from 1 November-31 December.

£46 from 1 January-31 March.

Single Occupancy Supplement:

Standard Room

£33 per night from 1 November - 31 December.

£41 per night from 1 January - 31 March.

Patio Room

£38 per night from 1 November-31 December.

£46 per night from 1 January-31 March.

Deposit: £100

FLIGHTS

The airfares shown are the least expensive fare category available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class availability, at the time of booking. The usual airfare deposit is £100.

BRITISH AIRWAYS

Depart from London (Gatwick) at noon on any day except Monday or Friday, arriving at Tampa in the afternoon. Return any day in the evening except Monday or Friday, arriving at London (Gatwick) the following morning.

£350 for departures 1 January-31 March (excluding Easter), 1 November-18 December, 25-31 December.

£560 for departures at Easter.

£645 for departures 19-24 December.

Weekend Supplement: Up to £10 each way for departures from London or Tampa on Fridays, Saturdays or Sundays.

Includes:

· Scheduled flights London (Gatwick)/Tampa/London (Gatwick) by British Airways.

VIRGIN ATLANTIC

Daily morning departures from London (Gatwick), arriving at Orlando in the afternoon. Return any day in the evening, arriving at London (Gatwick) the following morning.

£350 for departures 1 January-31 March (excluding Easter), 1 November-19 December, 25-31 December.

£580 for departures at Easter.

£645 for departures 20-24 December.

Weekend Supplement: Up to £10 each way for departures from London or Orlando on Fridays, Saturdays or Sundays.

Includes:

· Scheduled flights London (Gatwick)/Orlando/London (Gatwick) by Virgin Atlantic.

COMBINING CRYSTAL RIVER

WITH WALKER'S CAY, THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS OR THE CAYMAN ISLANDS

Although it is quite possible to visit the manatees of Crystal River as a 'stand alone' destination, it combines very easily with a visit to Walker's Cay, the Turks & Caicos or the Caymans. This can be done by using Miami as the 'hub' airport and taking a short flight to Tampa or Orlando (for around £115 return, plus a £50 Miami stopover charge if breaking the journey to or from the Turks & Caicos or Caymans) and then driving to Crystal River. Please contact our office to discuss your travel plans and the costs of tailor-made itineraries. Alternatively, if you have to take the kids to Disneyland (near Orlando), why not add on a few extra days and take them to look for manatees?