Holidays

SOUTH AFRICA & MOZAMBIQUE

Year:2003

Land and sea safaris on the coral coast

Season: Year-round diving

Visibility: 15-30 metres

Water temperature: 22-28°C

Now that the peaceful transition to democracy has removed the last barriers to tourism, this must be one of the most exciting times to visit the beautiful country of South Africa. This large country holds such a variety of marine life that it far surpasses better-known Indian Ocean dive destinations such as the Seychelles and Mauritius. Contrasting landscapes, an unsurpassed richness of wildlife above and below the water, including spectacular game parks that provide the opportunity to find Lion, Leopard, White Rhino, African Buffalo and African Elephant (the 'Big Five') in an untamed environment. South Africa must surely be high on the travelling diver's list of new and tempting destinations!

Despite being one of the world's poorest countries and still bearing the scars of the post-colonial civil war, the people of Mozambique are warm and friendly. The country is still very undeveloped, but is blessed with a truly magnificent, long tropical coastline and some wonderful diving. Ponta Do Ouro is just over the border from South Africa.

Diving is the main focus of the holidays featured in our programme of trips to South Africa and Mozambique, but the tours include the option to partake in some other activities, and are designed to offer an opportunity to experience the environment above the water as well as below. These optional and additional activities are not included in the holiday cost quoted in our brochure. Our featured tours consist of small groups (maximum 7 participants) escorted by Burger Edwards, a native of South Africa and a very experienced divemaster who has notched up hundreds of dives on each of his 'home reefs'. These trips will appeal especially to those who enjoy sharing their holiday experiences with others. As the single supplement is very reasonable, these holidays make an excellent choice for the diver travelling alone. Kindly note that the itineraries given below are subject to minor alterations. Confirmed itineraries will be provided one month before departure. Local changes may occasionally be necessary in response to ever-changing diving conditions.

SODWANA BAY

Sodwana Bay lies 400 kilometres north of Durban on South Africa's east coast and the reefs here form part of the Maputaland Marine Reserve. The warm Agulhas current flows south along the east coast of Africa and in these clear warm waters of the Indian Ocean are the southernmost coral reefs in the world. Unique, in that flower-like soft corals here predominate over hard corals, these reefs are home to over 1,200 Indo-Pacific fish species. No major rivers flow into these waters to disturb the excellent underwater visibility.

Behind Sodwana's high sand dunes are swamp forests dominated by magnificent fig trees. Further inland vast lakes are home to hippos and crocodiles. Weird hornbills constantly call from the bush during the night and the evenings are enlivened by choruses of delightful bright green tree frogs. In the soft, warm sands of Sodwana Bay, Leatherback and Loggerhead turtles return year after year to breed and lay their eggs.

From a narrow strip of sandy coastline tractors pull the specially built dive boats across the sand bars and you can expect an exciting and exhilarating boat entry as your experienced skipper negotiates the surf zone and crosses the more inshore reefs. Awaiting the diver is a system of parallel reefs, each with its own particular ecosystem. On these reefs you can expect regular sightings of Bottle-nosed Dolphins, moray eels, Marbled Ribbontail Rays, Moorish Idols, butterflyfish and angelfish. These waters are also famous for their variety of sharks and sightings are commonplace at certain times of year.

The reefs at Sodwana Bay run parallel to the shore, each one named for its distance from the launching point for boats at Jesser Point. The nondescript names Quarter Mile Reef, Two Mile Reef, Five Mile Reef, Seven Mile Reef and Nine Mile Reef disguise some exquisitely beautiful underwater gardens and seascapes which are some of the best dive sites in the Indian Ocean.

Lying roughly on a north-south orientation the 1.7 kilometre long Two Mile Reef dive sites vary from a depth of 12 metres to a maximum of 36 metres. Reef life varies considerably from area to area but it is here that large schools of Big-eye Trevally and goatfish are often found. One of the loveliest dive sites is Anton's Reef, where fabulously dense schools of snappers part gracefully as the diver passes. Coral heads and overhangs form spectacular vistas and interesting swim-throughs. The dense and varied corals provide the perfect environment for a kaleidoscope of juvenile fish to grow and develop. At night, cocooned parrotfish lie passively, almost inviting the photographer to try his skill. A series of sandy gullies cuts through the coral arches, pinnacles and overhangs at Gullies, Caves and Overhangs. Tiny, brave cleaner wrasse carry out their dental checks on the spectacularly huge but ugly Potato Bass (some of which are up to 1.5 metres long!). Because of the excellent light penetration and shallow depth there is a magnificent range of coral and invertebrate life. Graceful turtles can frequently be seen swimming near by.

Five Mile Reef is jealously guarded by the Natal Parks Board and to preserve its wonderful pristine state only one dive per day is granted to each dive centre and divers must be accompanied by a professional dive instructor. This large and delicate flat reef holds a profusion of soft and hard corals. Miniature staghorn coral gardens hold an abundance of multicoloured tropical reef fish, darting busily about their business.

The coral heads, canyons and pinnacles of Seven Mile Reef are known for regular sightings of Bottle-nosed Dolphins. The eerie and spell-binding sound of their echo location signals may betray their presence to the diver and these gentle and graceful creatures sometimes approach to within 10 metres. The inner edge of the reef holds turtles and rays, while a spectacular mass of brilliantly coloured Goldies hover above the coral.

Nine Mile Reef is the most dramatic reef, with spectacular underwater scenery. Big game fish frequently pass through and it is not unusual to spot hammerheads and other sharks. Enormous but gentle Whale Sharks occasionally cruise past. On the deeper sections of the reef there are thrilling caves to explore when conditions are calm. The drop-off, dipping steeply from 16 to 21 metres, holds the rare and lovely black coral and festoons of beautiful red gorgonians. Clown Anemonefish dwell amongst the swaying, abundant anemones and Moorish Idols, angelfish and butterflyfish dance and dart constantly along the reef.

On the boat trips to and from the reef, you may see dolphins and, during winter months, Humpback Whales. The humpbacks are on migration from Antarctica to Mozambique for calving every winter. The peak northward migration is in the latter part of July and, having calved, they migrate southwards in September and October. Whale Sharks are seen occasionally.

Optional afternoon activities: Most diving will be conducted in the mornings and in the afternoons you are free to relax or partake in a variety of activities (not included in the cost of your holiday). A number of excursions are available for those of an energetic persuasion. Microlight flips over the wetlands and reefs are a must (ever seen a whale shark from the air?), and quad biking and 4 x 4 beach excursions can also be arranged. A walking trail is laid out around Lake Ngoboseleni and the endless sandy beaches stretch along this coastline for miles, or if you prefer you can mount up and gallop along the beach on one of the friendly local horses. You may, however, prefer lazy afternoons, stretching out under the African sun or catching forty winks in your wooden chalet. During the summer months (November to February) Leatherback and Loggerhead Turtles come up on to the sand dunes of Sodwana at night to lay their eggs above the high-water mark. Evening trips with rangers can be arranged to observe these enigmatic creatures on a starlit beach.

Accommodation at Sodwana is in shared wooden chalets. Each chalet has two or three bedrooms, with two single beds in each room, and two or three bathrooms (bathrooms are not en-suite).

THE HIBISCUS COAST

(ALIWAL SHOAL & PROTEA BANKS)

Both Protea Banks and Aliwal Shoal boast fine reefs, with rocky base structures which provide a foothold for subtropical hard and soft coral growth. The wonderful beaches and corals are not, however, the prime attraction. Most famous for their population of Ragged-tooth (or Sand Tiger) Sharks, Aliwal Shoal and Protea Banks attract impressive numbers of these sharks between August and November. These heavy-bodied sharks have a short pointed snout, very distinctive 'ragged' teeth and small eyes. Unlike most larger sharks, they have the ability to pump water over their gills and can 'sleep' in caves or under rocky ledges. These slow-moving sharks are not aggressive, but have been known to 'lose their cool' when aggravated by over-enthusiastic divers. Both areas give divers a taste of 'white water rafting in the sea'. Known locally as 'rubber ducks', RIBs head straight out into the highly impressive surf break, sometimes reaching near vertical angles as the skipper darts in and out through elusive gaps in the wave sets. Return trips are equally, if not more, exciting as the boats ride the crest of the wave on full throttle to keep the propellers out of the sand until the last possible moment, then beach at high speed while divers cling to grab ropes with their feet firmly held with foot straps!

Aliwal Shoal is a fossilized sand dune, lying some 5 kilometres offshore, where divers can find a variety of sponges, soft and hard corals, and schools of beautiful reef fish as well as sharks. There is a fascinating convergence of warm water reef fish, such as beautiful Moorish Idols, Red-toothed Triggerfish and one endemic species, the delightful but uncommon striped Tiger Angelfish, with cold water species brought north by the Benguela Current. Turtles are regularly sighted here. Cathedral is a dive site which usually yields a good variety of stingrays and moray eels. Look out for a Honeycomb and Blue-spotted Stingrays hidden in the sand. Ragged-tooth Sharks come here to rest and are easily disturbed, so observe them from a distance. The Produce is a glorious wreck which sank on 11 August 1974 after hitting the shoal. This Norwegian bulk carrier now lies on her starboard side and provides a home for thousands of reef fish. Glassfish and lionfish can be found lurking in dark corners.

About a 15 minute boat ride from the shore, Protea Banks lies within the area washed by the Agulhas Current. When the current is strong, these dive sites can offer enjoyable drifts but, if the current allows, divers can search the beautiful soft and hard corals for tropical reef dwellers. It is, however, the shark encounters which are the main focus here and the range of species is impressive: Zambezi (or Bull), Scalloped Hammerhead, Ragged-tooth (or Sand Tiger), Tiger and Copper (or Bronze Whaler) Sharks are seen regularly. It has to be said that most divers return from these dives with no memory of colourful reef fish or invertebrates, as the sharks have grabbed all the attention!

Optional afternoon activities: Most diving will be conducted in the mornings and in the afternoons you are free to partake of other activities (not included in the cost of your holiday). Choose from visiting the Natal Sharks Board (pioneers in shark research and conservation), abseiling at Oribi Gorge (the longest commercial abseil in the world, 110 metres alongside the Lehr waterfall) or visiting the local crocodile farm or bird sanctuary. Of course you may choose to spend your afternoons relaxing or exploring the endless sandy beaches that stretch along this coastline, an infinite succession of secret lagoons, rocky outcrops and golden sand washed by the warm Indian Ocean

Accommodation on the Hibiscus Coast is in a small, comfortable guesthouse. Bedrooms have either twin or double beds and en-suite bathrooms.

PONTA DO OURO

Exhilarating beach launches can be quite an experience, but once under the water all the effort will be very worth while. The reefs here are in pristine condition and lie close to the shore. Many still remain unexplored. Between November and April, dolphins, Whale Sharks and whales are often seen at these dive sites. Pinnacles is a flat ridge with small patches of reef, and it is here that sharks frequently congregate. Scalloped Hammerhead and Zambezi (or Bull) Sharks have been recorded here as well as Manta Rays. At 35 metres, this is dive that you will remember long after the holiday has finished! Several large Potato Bass live at Bass City, where a series of sponge and coral covered rocky outcrops form an amphitheatre-like structure. Juvenile Yellow Jacks and Golden Kingfish hang around this area whilst the ubiquitous Orange Anthias flit around the rocks and Moorish Idols cruise leisurely past. Underhangs harbour sweepers and a variety of shrimps. Keep looking in all the nooks and crannies and you will find octopus and moray eels. Aquarium is a large hollow bommie (coral head) at 26 metres and is surrounded by smaller rocky outcrops. Inside the coral cavity can be found black corals. Both white and purple leafish sway backwards and forwards in the drift and Geometric Moray Eels are commonly found hiding in holes. Several species of rays can be found here.

Optional afternoon activities: Most diving will be conducted in the mornings and in the afternoons you are free to partake of other activities (not included in the cost of your holiday). The pace is slow in Ponta Do Ouro and afternoons are leisurely. You can head out to the bay with your fins, mask and snorkel in search of the resident pod of dolphins or have a go at quad biking on the sand dunes. Bargaining with the local craftsman for wooden carvings is only surpassed by drinking cerveza in the local pub.

Accommodation in Ponta Do Ouro is in very basic, beach front, twin-bedded chalets with communal bathrooms. Electricity is supplied to light bulbs but there are no power points. Batteries can be recharged at the dive centre.

THE SARDINE RUN

Often described as one of the natural world's most awesome and spectacular sights, the 'Sardine Run' in South Africa is an opportunity to witness an amazing conflict for survival, where the sardines' battle for survival is matched by the ruthless determination of their hunters. After swimming to the surface to feed under the cover of the South African night, thousands of sardines form themselves into a giant, swirling ball as a strategy for survival as they attempt to return to the safety of deep water. Unbeknown to them, predators such as dolphins, Humpback Whales, Orcas (or Killer Whales), Cape Fur Seals and many species of sharks pick up the scent of the oils left behind as the school of fish swirl through the water. Once detected, the vicious attack begins and the predators close in for the kill. The bait ball tightens, sometimes spilling through the surface in an explosion of foam and fear, as sharp teeth grasp unrelentingly. Even albatrosses, gannets, petrels, shearwaters, and terns join in the feeding frenzy, diving down to grab the tasty fish in the water. Skuas have their own strategy for getting the fish: rather than take their own catch from the water, they pursue the gannets until they give up their bounty. The remorseless attack on the sardine bait ball continues until all the fish have been eaten, or the lucky few have escaped to the safety of the deeps.

This truly remarkable event occurs off the coast of South Africa in early June, and although there is some opportunity for diving and snorkeling, some of the best views are from the boat. Consequently, this is a trip that can be highly recommended to both divers and non-divers.

Accommodation is in a good Cape Dutch hotel. Rooms have either double or twin beds with en-suite bathrooms and TV.

At HLUHLUWE/UMFALOZI accommodation is either in a bush lodge which has four thatched chalets and a lounge/dining room plus game viewing area. The twin-bedded chalets are unfenced and have no electricity. The lodge takes just 8 clients, so our group will have sole occupancy of the lodge. Our private game warden will arrange a walking safari in the game reserve. Should the lodge not be available, accommodation will be in a very comfortable game camp where the one or two bedroomed thatched chalets have en-suite bathrooms.

At the ZULU VILLAGE accommodation is at Simunye Lodge. This very comfortable, stone lodge has twin or doubles with en-suite bathrooms but has no electricity. The one hour journey to the remote Zulu lodge is on horse back, by ox cart, on foot or by 4 wheel drive vehicle (the latter is the slowest option!). Choose your own method of transport!

Seven diving and adventure itineraries, all escorted, are offered and details are shown below. Kindly note that changes to accommodations and/or the itinerary may be necessary due to local conditions.

WHALE SHARK & RHINO ADVENTURE

(Diving at Aliwal Shoal, Protea Banks, Sodwana and Ponta Do Ouro, plus Game Reserve visit)

Tour dates: 14-28 January, 28 January-11 February, 3-17 June, 19 August-2 September, 2-16 September, 17 November-1 December, 2-16 December.

Itinerary: Day 1 Evening departure from London. Day 2 Morning arrival at Durban. You will be met at at the airport and travel 60 kilometres south to the Hibiscus Coast where you will spend the rest of the day unwinding, relaxing and enjoying splendid sea views. Day 3 Morning dives at Aliwal Shoal or Protea Banks. Optional afternoon activities. Day 4 After an early morning dive you will journey into the heart of tribal Zululand where the young warrior Shaka built his mighty Impi nation. In a hand crafted stone and thatch lodge you will experience the ancient ways of the Zulu people in remote hills and valleys where tradition and ritual remain a way of life. The Zulu call this 'umlingo' (magic!). Overnight at Simunye Zulu Lodge. Days 6- 7 Prepare yourself for the call of the wild as you travel to the Hluhluwe/Umfolozi Game Reserve, the oldest game reserve in Africa and home to Africa's Big Five (Lion, Leopard, White Rhino, African Buffalo and African Elephant). Here you spend two nights in thatched chalets or authentic bush camps savouring the sights and sounds of the African bushveld, travelling with experienced rangers either in open 4x4 safari vehicles or on foot. Day 8 After an early morning game drive you begin travelling north to Sodwana Bay for a three nights stay. Days 9-10 Morning dives at Sodwana. Optional afternoon activities. Day 11 After an early morning dive, Mozambique is your destination. The route is via Kwanganase, a typical rural town with roadside hawkers, open air butchers and kwela music vibrating through the air. The last leg of the 'road' to Ponta Do Ouro is the ultimate introduction to 4x4 travelling 'African style'. The accommodation is in very simple beach chalets. Days 12-13 The bungalows are a stone's throw from the sea and after kitting up at Reed Dive Lodge prepare for the now customary surf launch to pristine dive sites. Optional afternoon activities. Day 14 A relaxed day's driving will give you the opportunity to pick up some last minute curios en route to Durban. You may also have time for a Hippo Cruise on the St Lucia Estuary, home to wild herds of hippopotamus, crocodiles and wonderful bird life. Evening departure from Durban. Day 15 Morning arrival at London.

£1595 (non-divers: £1395) Durban/Durban

Includes:

· 12 nights bed and breakfast accommodation on a twin/share basis.

· 15-18 dives

· Game drives or game walks

· Entrance to Game Reserves and Nature Reserves

Single Occupancy Supplement: £160

Deposit: £300

WHALE SHARK & DOLPHIN ADVENTURE

(Extended dive trip to Aliwal Shoal, Protea Banks, Sodwana and Ponta Do Ouro)

Tour dates: 14-28 January, 28 January-11 February, 3-17 June, 19 August-2 September, 2-16 September, 17 November-1 December, 2-16 December.

£1595 (non-divers: £1395)

Includes:

· 12 nights bed and breakfast accommodation on a twin/share basis.

· 18 dives.

· Entrance to Nature Reserves.

Single Occupancy Supplement: £160

Deposit: £300

DOLPHIN, TURTLE & RHINO ADVENTURE

(Diving at Aliwal Shoal, Protea Banks and Sodwana, plus Game Reserve visit)

Tour dates: 16-25 January, 30 January-8 February, 5-14 June, 21-30 August, 4-13 September, 19-28 November, 4-13 December.

Itinerary: Day 1 Evening departure from London. Day 2 Morning arrival at Durban. Your adventure starts with a 400 kilometre drive north to Sodwana Bay, where you will arrive in time for your first South African dinner under the stars. Days 3-4 Morning dives at Sodwana. Optional afternoon activities. Day 5 Prepare yourself for the call of the wild as you travel to the Hluhluwe/Umfolozi Game Reserve, the oldest game reserve in Africa and home to Africa's Big Five (Lion, Leopard, White Rhino, African Buffalo and African Elephant). Here you spend the night in thatched chalets or an authentic bush camp savouring the sights and sounds of the African bushveld, travelling with experienced rangers either in open 4x4 safari vehicles or on foot. Day 6 Your second day in the bushveld and you may also have time for a Hippo Cruise on the St Lucia Estuary, home to wild herds of hippopotamus, crocodiles and wonderful birdlife, en route to Durban and the Hibiscus coast. Day 7-8 Morning dives at Aliwal Shoal and Protea Banks. Optional afternoon activities. Day 9 Your last day in Africa and time to top up your tan or get in some last minute shopping. Evening departure from Durban. Day 10 Morning arrival at London

£995 (non-divers: £950) Durban/Durban

Includes:

· 8 nights bed and breakfast accommodation on a twin/share basis.

· 8 dives.

· Game drives.

· Entrance fees to Game Reserve and Nature Reserve

Single Occupancy Supplement: £100

Deposit: £300

SHARK & DOLPHIN ADVENTURE

(Shark diving at Aliwal Shoal and Protea Banks)

Tour dates: 18-25 August, 1-8 September, 16-23 November.

£695 (non-divers: £595) Durban/Durban

Includes:

· 5 nights bed and breakfast accommodation on a twin/share basis.

· 8 dives.

Single Occupancy Supplement: £75

Deposit: £300

SHARK & TURTLE ADVENTURE

(Diving at Sodwana)

Tour dates: 18-25 January, 1-8 February, 23-30 August, 6-13 September, 21-28 November, 6-13 December.

£695 (non-divers: £595) Durban/Durban

Includes:

· 5 nights bed and breakfast accommodation on a twin/share basis.

· 8 dives.

Single Occupancy Supplement: £100

Deposit: £300

SHARK & HAMMERHEAD ADVENTURE

(Extended dive trip to Ponta Do Ouro)

Tour dates: 21-28 January, 4- 1 February, 26 August-2 September, 9-16 September, 24 November-1 December, 9-16 December.

Itinerary: Day 1 Morning departure from London. Day 2 Morning arrival at Durban and begin travelling north to Mozambique. The route is via Kwanganase, a typical rural town with roadside hawkers, open air butchers and kwela music vibrating through the air. The final leg of the 'road' to Ponta Do Ouro is the ultimate introduction to 4x4 travelling 'African style'. The accommodation is in very simple beach chalets. Days 3-6 The bungalows are a stone's throw from the sea and after kitting up at Reed Dive Lodge prepare for the now customary surf launch to pristine dive sites. Optional afternoon activities. Day 7 A relaxed day's driving will give you the opportunity to pick up some last minute curios en route to Durban. You may also have time for a Hippo Cruise on the St Lucia Estuary, home to wild herds of hippopotamus, crocodile and wonderful bird life. Evening departure from Durban. Day 8 Morning arrival at London.

£895 (non-divers: £795) Durban/Durban

Includes:

· 5 nights bed and breakfast accommodation on a twin/share basis.

· 8 dives.

Single Occupancy Supplement: £100

Deposit: £300

THE SARDINE RUN

(Diving at Aliwal Shoal, Protea Banks and with the Sardine 'bait-ball')

Tour dates: 2-9 June.

Itinerary: Day 1 Evening departure from London. Day 2 Morning arrival at Durban. You will be met at at the airport and travel 60 kilometres south to the Hibiscus Coast where you will spend the rest of the day unwinding, relaxing and enjoying splendid sea views. Day 3 Morning dives at Aliwal Shoal. Optional afternoon activities. Day 4 Surf launches to Protea Banks. With at least 7 shark species frequenting these waters, including the Ragged-tooth Shark, or 'raggies', which are found on the reef for much of the year, it offers a unique opportunity to observe and interact with apex predators. Days 5-6 Prepare to be amazed! Your marine wildlife expedition starts on the water as we spend the days at sea in search of the hub of sardine and predator action. This is the marine equivalent of the Masai Mara Wildebeest migration as the annual movement of sardines up the southeast coast brings with it an incredible festival of activity. The shoals are generally measured in kilometres as they hug the coastline going north and following the sardines are many species of game fish and approximately 15,000 Common Dolphins and 3,000 Bottle-nosed Dolphins. Humpback Whales, Killer Whales and many shark species are also part of this phenomenon. In addition a wealth of bird life can be observed plunging into the sardine shoals. This is not primarily a scuba diving trip, but a marine wildlife expedition where you will see more predator action from the boat than you will see in the water. Photographers should come away with the dolphin and whale pictures of a lifetime! Day 7 A last opportunity to watch the 'greatest shoal on earth' before transferring to Durban. Evening departure from Durban. Day 8 Morning arrival at London.

£995 (non-divers: £995) Durban/Durban

Includes:

· 5 nights bed and breakfast accommodation on a twin/share basis.

· 4-8 dives plus snorkeling opportunities on the Sardine Run.

Single Occupancy Supplement: £100

Deposit: £300

FLIGHTS

The airfares shown are the least expensive fare category available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class availability, at the time of booking. The usual airfare deposit is £100.

SOUTH AFRICAN AIRLINES

Daily evening departures from London (Heathrow) bound for Durban via Johannesburg, arriving the following morning. Daily afternoon departures from Durban, connecting with an evening departure from Johannesburg that arrives at London (Heathrow) the following morning.

£660 for departures 1 April-9 July (excluding Easter), 1 November-9 December.

£710 for departures 1 January-31 March, at Easter, 1 August-31 October.

£820 for departures 10-31 July, 25-31 December.

£1045 for departures 10-24 December .

Includes:

· Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Johannesburg/Durban/Johannesburg/London (Heathrow) by South African Airlines.

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