KUNGKUNGAN BAY, SULAWESI

Year:2003

The best 'macro diving' on earth!

Season: Year-round diving (optimum: April-November)

Visibility: 8-25 metres

Water temperature: 24-27°C

Set in the middle of the Indonesian archipelago, and astride the equator, the starfish-shaped island of Sulawesi hosts a rich marine environment. Something like 3,000 species of fish populate the Indonesian islands and seemingly a high proportion of them live in the waters that surround Sulawesi!

The secluded and exceptional dive resort at Kungkungan Bay is situated on the leeward side of the northeastern arm of Sulawesi, about 10 kilometres north of the port of Bitung. The coast of Sulawesi and the long, narrow island of Lembeh running parallel to it form the calm channel of the Lembeh Strait, where divers can experience some of Indonesia's finest diving and indeed what now ranks as perhaps the world's top location for weird and wonderful marine critters.

The coastlines of Sulawesi and Lembeh Island provide a wide variety of habitats including not only numerous coral reefs but also sandy bays, mangrove swamps, an old lava flow surrounded by jagged rock, volcanic outcrops and a newly discovered wreck. For those divers who are interested in rare or unusual species, the Lembeh Strait is the jewel in the Asian crown. The variety of marine life, which includes squid, octopus, seahorses, frogfish, scorpionfish, devilfish, crocodilefish, stargazers, dragonets, Flying Gurnards, Mandarinfish, sea spiders, crabs, shrimps and sea snakes make this area a serious contender as the world's finest diving destination for anyone with a serious interest in marine creatures and it has already attracted a long series of marine biologists, photographers and authors. Over 180 species of fish have already been listed in just one small area in the bay!

A rich supply of plankton is carried into the strait and concentrated there by the prevailing currents. Whilst this means that the water is not crystal clear, it does result in a wide and unique diversity of marine life. Both the number of species and the superb variety mean that this is the place where even well-travelled and experienced divers will find creatures they have never discovered elsewhere. It has been said that Kungkungan Bay has the densest concentration of nocturnal species anywhere in Indonesia and in 1994 a National Geographic film crew selected the Lembeh Strait to shoot a special on marine life. Year-round diving is offered at Kungkungan Bay due to its protected position from both the northeast and the southwest monsoons. Kungkungan Bay offers a unique combination of 'fun' diving opportunities and the chance to see many little-known creatures for those interested in underwater wildlife. It is a spectacular destination for the macro-photographer.

At Nudi Retreat a sandy cove is fringed by a low but beautiful coral wall. As with so many dive sites at Lembeh Strait, the sandy slopes are well worth investigating. Here Flying Gurnards hover just a centimetre or so above the surface, or glide slowly away on their wing-like fins, suggesting some strange hovercraft. Pegasus (or Short) Sea Moths are surely some of the most bizarre yet delightful fish on earth and watching a pair of these strangely-shaped creatures (complete with 'beaks' and circular, outstretched pectoral fins) shuffle along on the bottom, the female following the male, is an enthralling experience. Along the wall, keep a lookout for Ribbon Eels, the strange vertical-aligned Coral Shrimpfish (or Razorfish), frogfish of several species and a remarkable variety of colourful and oddly-shaped nudibranchs.

Dive sites like Hairball and Jahir seem at first sight to be the complete antithesis of normal warm water diving: not a coral reef in sight, just a slope of dark volcanic sand and silt stretching down into the gloom, poor visibility (perhaps 8 metres or less) and a scattering of debris. Don't be put off by the scenery, however, for here lurks a splendid collection of animals that richly rewards the diver both by day and by night. Check out the sponges that cling to bits of debris down here, for some of those yellow or orange blobs could well be frogfish (Giant, Clown and Striated are all regular). Relying on a different kind of camouflage, the sandy-coloured Hairy Frogfish (apparently an unusual morph of the more widespread Striated Frogfish), looks like some strange shaggy dog as it crouches on the sandy bottom or 'walks' slowly along on its modified pectoral fins, occasionally wriggling its remarkably worm-like lure. Ambon Scorpionfish, equally masters of camouflage, look like shredded lumps of seaweed, even 'playing dead' and drifting over the bottom like a clump of algae if threatened. Spiny Devilfish make scorpionfish look positively attractive, while the equally strange Finger Dragonet scrabbles over the surface using the finger-like spines on its modified pectoral fins. Other interesting animals here include Black-finned Snake Eels (only their heads poking out of the sand as they lie in ambush), Common Seahorse, Peacock Flounder, various mantis shrimps and many nudibranchs, including the impressive T-bar nudibranch. At night the Stargazers shuffle their way to the surface, their faces staring upwards like some strange demonic skull half-buried in the sand. Huge slipper lobsters trundle over the surface like relics of the Jurassic age and sea hares ripple as they move about their business. Black sea urchins reflect iridescent purple and red in the spotlight beam as they move across the bottom, often harbouring Urchin Cardinalfish and shrimps amongst their long spines.

One of the strangest yet most rewarding dive sites at Lembeh Strait is Mandarin, named after the Mandarinfish that live there. Mandarinfish are only active around dawn and dusk, so this is one dive that starts as a day dive and ends as a night dive! As the gloom gathers one fins over a valley of soft coral and then over a 'pass' covered in staghorn coral before reaching an amphitheatre-like structure filled with coral rubble and mushroom coral. Here one settles down to wait until, at the appointed hour, just before it gets dark, little shapes can be seen scuttling round amongst the crevices. The judicious application of a spotlight reveals these most wondrously beautiful little fish, dressed as if in patterned green, orange, red and blue silk! If you are really lucky you will see a pair mating, rising up suddenly in unison into the open water before equally suddenly retreating to the safety of the coral.

The coral-encrusted wreck of the World War II freighter Tanduk Rusa lies on its side in 17 to 30 metres of water and is still in remarkably good condition. Crinoids, trees of black corals and draping elegant soft corals have made this once sea-worthy vessel their home. Huge schools of fish gather here including the delightful swaying Teira Batfish and vast swarms of darting silversides. Moray eels peep out and 'snarl' from their crevices, but perhaps the most beautiful performance is provided by the exquisite lionfish as a chorus of up to 40 individuals besport their elegant fins in a fabulous underwater ballet.

Rough chunks of black volcanic rock mark the site of an old lava flow at Batu Angus (Burnt Rock). In this sheltered area almost every inch of the rock is covered with coral. Huge anemones, some over a metre in diameter, are sprinkled liberally over the area whilst damselfish, butterflyfish and shy gobies are abundant. This spectacularly beautiful coral garden is also a superb spot for snorkelers. At Batu Sandar, another beautiful coral garden, Ornate (or Harlequin) Ghost Pipefish drift amongst the crinoids and fans, taking up the colours of their hosts, whether black, yellow or even mauve.

Batu Kapal (Stone Ship) is situated off the most northerly point of Lembeh Island. Not a dive for the novice, as it is usually washed by fairly strong currents, this site affords superb diving and the best opportunity for pelagic observations. The Batu Kapal is in actual fact a large rock shaped somewhat like a ship and the dive begins at the bottom of the rock at about 24 metres. From here a submerged ridge runs towards smaller pinnacles at about 36 metres. Coral cover is provided by both soft and plate corals and huge mixed schools of surgeonfish and jacks swarm all over. The strong currents sweep in the nutrients that feed the food chain, attracting big fish: Grey and White-tip Reef Sharks, huge schools of barracudas, Dogtooth and Bluefin Tuna, turtles and even the occasional Whale Shark are sighted here. Visibility in this area can be up to 25 metres or more.

Shore-diving at House Reef can be rewarding. Beautiful red gorgonians grow on the wooden struts of the pier at only 10 centimetres below the surface and in the top five metres of the water column cuttlefish, scorpionfish, crabs and superbly coloured nudibranchs can be found roaming around the coral formations. Out in the bay, the sloping reef is broken by small drop-offs and ledges. Beautiful soft corals in delicate shades of pink, bright orange and red, along with large sponges and sea whips, cover most of the reef. In the north of the bay, coral bommies (heads of coral) project from a sandy slope. Everywhere anemones, each with its own shrimps and anemone fish, litter the reef. Pygmy Seahorses regularly occur on the sea fans below about 20 metres. At certain times the current in the straight forms an eddy current in the bay, known locally as 'the merry-go-round', which can be great fun to ride: divers can ride up the coast on the main current and back on the eddy!

KUNGKUNGAN BAY RESORT

The luxurious Kungkungan Bay Resort was purpose-built in 1994 and constructed in traditional North Sulawesi style from local coconut wood. The resort is almost always blessed with a mild breeze that lifts and stirs the coconut palms. The beautifully designed restaurant, glassed on all sides, perches out over the water with views of the grassy and chalk cliffs of Serena Island and the wooded ridges of Lembeh Island rising in the distance beyond. The beachfront bungalows are built around the central dining area in the midst of beautiful tropical gardens. All rooms have very large bathrooms with shower and bath. The restaurant offers international cuisine specializing in Thai, Malay, Indonesian and Mexican food as well as western-style dishes. Very extensive menus are offered and you are welcome to select whatever you like and as much as you like! Meals can be arranged at any time of the day or night! A very warm welcome and superb service from the local staff awaits the diver who seeks out this luxurious tropical hideaway adjacent to the pristine reefs of the Lembeh Strait. Kungkungan Bay Resort has been described as the finest diving resort in Indonesia, and without a doubt the local dive guides are the best in the world. Well used to catering for keen photographers and marine biologists, their ability to find strange 'critters' for their guests is legendary.

Some months at the resort are designated 'speciality months', featuring a well-known expert underwater photographer, videographer or marine biologist. Big names in the first 8 months of 2002 include video maestro John Boyle (January), fish man extraordinaire Scott Michael (May) and biologists-cum-photographers Larry and Denise Tackett (August). Check with us for details of speciality months later in the year.

Three single-tank boat dives are included each day (on three nights a week, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, the third dive is a night dive). With the dive sites only 5-10 minutes from the resort, divers return to the resort between dives. The morning briefing and boat dive take place after a leisurely breakfast and you will return in time to take advantage of the superb cuisine provided by the resort kitchens. Afternoon briefings and boat dives start after lunch. Shore diving is available at any time at the discretion of the dive master, who ensures that tides and local conditions are suitable before granting permission. Additional night dives are available on request, at an extra cost.

£598 (non-divers: £400) for 4 nights.

£763 (non-divers: £500) for 5 nights.

£928 (non-divers: £600) for 6 nights.

£1093 (non-divers: £700) for 7 nights.

Includes:

· Transfers between Manado airport (or Manado resorts) and Kungkungan Bay Resort.

· 4, 5, 6 or 7 nights full-board accommodation on a twin/share basis at Kungkungan Bay Resort.

· 3, 4, 5 or 6 days diving (3 boat dives daily and shore diving on request), dive guide for boat dives, cylinders and weights.

Additional Nights: £165 (without diving: £100).

Single Occupancy Supplement: £55 per night.

Deposit: £100

FLIGHTS

The airfares shown are the least expensive fare category available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class availability, at the time of booking. The usual airfare deposit is £100.

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

Depart by Singapore Airlines on Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday or Friday morning from London (Heathrow) bound for Singapore, arriving the following morning and connecting with a Silk Air flight arriving in Manado in the early afternoon. Return flights leave Manado on Monday, Wednesday, Friday or Saturday afternoons, connecting with a Singapore Airlines late evening departure from Singapore that arrives at London (Heathrow) the next morning.

Flights are also available from Manchester at no extra charge.

£585 for departures 1 January-30 June (excluding Easter), 1 September-9 December, 24-31 December.

£735 for departures at Easter, 1 July-31 August, 10-23 December.

Includes:

· Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Singapore/London (Heathrow) by Singapore Airlines.

· Scheduled flights Singapore/Manado/Singapore by Silk Air.

SINGAPORE STOP-OVERS

Why not take the opportunity to explore Singapore as part of your holiday? Singapore Airlines fly between London and Singapore daily and stop-overs are available at no additional airfare. We can arrange your hotel accommodation: for details please see the Southern Thailand entry in this brochure.

COMBINING KUNGKUNGAN BAY AND MANADO

As you will pass through Manado en route to Kungkungan Bay, we can, if you wish, arrange for you to stay at Nusantara Diving Centre or the Santika Manado Hotel and enjoy the fabulous diving of Bunaken Marine Park. The cost of staying at Nusantara Diving Centre or the Santika Manado Hotel can be found in the Manado brochure entry.