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MEXICO’S YUCATAN PENINSULA Year:2004 The remote reefs of Mexico’s Mayan CoastSeason: Year-round diving Visibility: 20-30 metres (best in summer). Water temperature: 26-29°C Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula has for many years been a favourite with Americans visitors who travel in droves to the ever-growing resorts of Cancun and Playa del Carmen seeking warm sunshine and coral sand beaches. Now there is an opportunity to visit a wonderful dive resort, well off the beaten track, nestled between verdant tropical forests and the beautiful blue Caribbean Sea, three and a half hours south of Cancun and a world away from the crowds. Quintana Roo, the most easterly state in the Yucatan Peninsula, holds a treasure chest of attractions for the visitor. Here can be found the most stunning (and in many cases, deserted) Caribbean beaches, literally hundreds of Mayan ruins and some fine diving. Quintana Roo became a state only in 1974, after the Mexican government of the time had ambitious plans to create a Caribbean holiday resort. Their dreams became reality and Cancun was developed from a tiny fishing village into the busy and commercialized resort it is today. Away from Cancun, the rest of Quintana Roo remains unspoilt and mostly covered in thick forest. The Mayan ruins at Chichen-Itza (about 3 hours by road, just over the Merida border) or Kohunlich (about 2 hours by road) can be visited in a day trip. But to really appreciate the wonders of the Mayan world, it may be better to hire a car and spend few days exploring the region. The well-preserved ruins at Chichen-Itza stands out impressively from the jungle. Built around the 10th century, this is one of the most famous Mayan cities and is certainly a fascinating place to visit. Arrive early to avoid the crowds, if possible, and climb the huge pyramid if you dare. Stroll around the spacious ritual ball courts, where it is said the losers (or possibly even the winners) were sacrificed! Kohunlich in southern Quintana Roo, perhaps the more romantic of the Mayan ruins, has some lovely, fern-clad palaces and temples. Maya Ha is a new, dedicated diving resort on the Costa Maya region of Mexico’s southern Yucatan coast directly opposite Banco Chinchorro (Chinchorro Bank), a huge (28 miles long!) reef that is so out of the way that until recently it has been little dived. Chinchorro has been described as ‘the most biologically diverse reef of the Mexican Caribbean’ and is home to a wide variety of marine life with a good population of sponge species and hard corals. Here one can dive both on coastal dive sites, where spur and groove reefs are cut with deep canyons and swimthroughs, or at Chinchorro Bank with its ancient wrecks and coral gardens. BANCO CHINCHORRO Banco Chinchorro is a new Caribbean dive destination – a reef area that few divers have heard of, and even fewer have experienced for themselves. Happily, the Costa Maya is still so uncrowded that the dive boat from Maya Ha Resort is almost always the only dive boat in sight. A visit to Chinchorro Bank is an opportunity to explore a diverse and varied marine ecosystem: star and brain corals, basket and elephant ear sponges, carpets of deep-water gorgonians and yellow pencil corals are all to be found – all in all over 50 species of hard and soft corals and more than 60 species of sponges occur in the area. Conchs have not been over-harvested and are still common, especially on shallow dives. Garden eels colonize large sand patches and wave like sea grass in the current, until they spot the diver approach – then it is back into their holes until it is safe to venture out once more. The Banco Chinchorro is about 12 kilometres wide and almost 40 kilometres long. Lying just over 20 kilometres off the coast, it takes from one hour to one and a quarter hours to make the sea journey out to the bank, depending on the weather. Only four small cays, Cayo Centro (the largest), tiny Cayo Lobos and the twin cays of Cayo Norte break the surface of the water. Most of the dive sites are located along the western edge of the bank. Little current occurs, and when it does seldom exceeds 2 knots. The area inside the bank is too shallow for diving but provides some excellent snorkeling opportunities. In only 4 metres of water, The Wreck of the 40 Cannons, is the remains of a 17th Century Dutch ship and is the ‘signature dive’ in this area. With rarely any significant current this is a beautiful dive site that can also be snorkeled. Twenty eight cannons, thickly encrusted with coral, algae and sea fans, remain scattered at this dive site (8 more have been removed and placed in a museum at Playa del Carmen). A massive anchor, equally thickly encrusted lies with the cannons and pairs of French and Queen Angelfish can be seen gliding over the cannons and amongst the prolific corals. Underneath the cannons are large chunks of blackened wooden keel or hull. If you gently dust some sand away you may find some glass or pottery fragments along with some unidentifiable rusty metal objects, but the more interesting artefacts from the site have probably long since been removed to museums. This must be one of the easiest and most pleasant wreck dives possible, with sunlight filtering through the water and forming lovely ripples over the reef. When interest in searching for gold wanes, search the sand for marine treasures. If you are persistent you may spot Sailfin Blennies living in abandoned invertebrate tubes. La Boya is a lovely dive site with a flat sandy top at 10 metres, then a sloping reef wall with hard and soft corals that gives way at depth to another sand flat with some really enormous barrel sponges, yellow tube sponges and elephant ear sponges that must be about 3 metres across! Careful scrutiny of the beautiful crinoids will reveal small arrow crabs and squat lobsters. Lower still, at 30 metres, look out for Spotted Eagle Rays, which cruise this area frequently. Southern Stingrays can be found shuffling across the sand flats. On some days it may be possible to visit the fishermen of Cayo Centro. If you get the chance to make this visit, it is certainly worth it! Not only do they provide a delicious lunch of freshly barbecued spicy lobster (for a small fee), but it is a great opportunity to get splendid views of the reef fish which cruise the area and mooch around the fish skeletons abandoned by the fishermen. If you are not too full after lunch, take a dive at Manchones (Spotted, from the Eagle Rays) which has excellent fish life, though visibility is not always good here. Ocean Triggerfish ‘row’ themselves through the water and both Black and Nassau Groupers lurk in a kind of interested way near divers. Sandy areas are home to swaying ‘flocks’ of Brown Garden Eels as well as the endlessly fascinating shrimp and goby pairs. The blind shrimp constantly shovels grit and stones from the burrow, whilst the ever-watchful goby makes certain that the coast is clear. This must be one of the most successful partnerships in the ocean! It is not usually possible to dive the Banco Chinchorro every day and decisions on whether to dive the coastal reefs or the bank are made locally, bearing in mind local conditions and the wishes of the divers present. On average Chinchorro is visited on three days out of every five. THE COASTAL REEFS The coastal reefs near Maya Ha are just a few minutes away by boat. These spur and groove reefs drop from 10 metres to 40 metres or more and are cut with canyons and swimthroughs. Though not usually blessed with sightings of the bigger species of fish, there are excellent opportunities to search for some wonderful reef-loving species such as the glorious Spotted Drum and the retiring Peppermint Basslet (lurking in dark recesses in the reef). At Bruha del Mar (Sea Witch) a series of narrow canyons give way to sandy areas. Tiny Short-finned Pipefish can be found here, mimicking the debris at the bottom of the sand chute. Blue-stripped Grunts form small schools over the rocky tops of the reef, while smaller French Grunts form larger schools. Perrot (Parrotfish) has a slope of turtle grass that often yields good views of Southern Stingrays, usually shuffling along with Bar Jacks in attendance. Small outcrops of hard coral house anemones and it is hear that you should look out for Pederson’s Cleaner Shrimps who will give you a free manicure, if you are patient. Here too can be found the tiny Cleaning Gobies who will also shuffle up your hands and arms, rasping away at microscopic tasty morsels, if you have the patience to let them get to know you. Search for moray eels in the rocky cracks and crevices: Spotted Morays can be found here, ‘snarling’ harmlessly at passing divers. Paraiso (Paradise) comprises a slope with rich coral gardens where huge barrel sponges are found. Splendid Azure Vase Sponges also occur in this area and it is well worth shining your dive light down into the centre of any tube sponges as there are often creatures hiding there. Furled Basket Stars, tiny shrimps and Yellowline Gobies love to lurk in the sponges. At this fishy site can be found Yellowtail Snappers, clumsy-looking Porkfish, Four-eye Butterflyfish, Queen and Grey Angelfish and Great Barracudas. MAYA HA RESORT Newly-built Maya Ha Resort nestles between the edge of the forest and the sea about 15 kilometres south of the little Costa Maya port of Mahahual. The four-story Mayan-style pyramid, complete with steps running up the outside to the outer observation deck, offers terrific views across the jungle on one side, and across the azure and turquoise blue of the ocean on the other. Fourteen spacious air-conditioned bungalows, each surrounded by beautifully tended tropical gardens, face out to sea. Just walk a few steps down your own pathway to the beach and there is a wide expanse of soft, clean pale golden sand lapped by the ocean. Walk down the beach to a small wooden pier complete with shaded hammock and swing. Swinging out high over the sea, or rocking peacefully in the hammock is a great way to get into the mood for a relaxing holiday. Four bungalows have garden views but still have easy access to the beach. The gardens at Maya Ha contain a wide variety of native plants, including over a hundred trees and jungle orchids. Walking around the grounds is a fragrant experience. Each delightful bungalow has two queen-sized beds, plenty of storage space, a wash hand basin and a separate shower and toilet. Two fans keep the rooms cool and individually controlled air-conditioning is available each evening and overnight. Insect screens can be pulled over the open patio doors to enjoy the cooling breeze without the problems of small winged visitors to annoy you! Each bungalow has a private patio with seats. The resort has its own reverse osmosis plant which filters the water, rendering it safe to drink. No need to buy mineral water at Maya Ha! Within the pyramid is the restaurant, which serves a buffet breakfast and waitress served lunch and dinner. The chef is noticeably talented and produces wonderful dishes from local ingredients, influenced by Mexican cuisine, but with a modern touch. Sea food is his speciality. Don’t ask him the names of the dishes, as he invents them as he cooks! You might have a whole grilled snapper and salad at lunch, or a grilled steak with avocado sauce at dinner. Chef gets his ingredients fresh each day and then decides what to prepare when he sees what has turned up that day! The bar is housed on the first floor of the pyramid, and it is here that you enjoy a cool beer or you can try out some splendid (and fairly powerful) cocktails: Margarita, Daiquiri, or Rum Punch. Those and a choice from many more are on offer! The bar and its pool table can attract visitors from the local ex-patriot community, or can be very quiet if the resort is off-season and the ex-pats have gone home! The very pleasant swimming pool is situated on a terrace overlooking the sea, just outside the pyramid, and sun beds, chairs and tables can be moved into the sun for sunbathing or pulled into the shade if the sun gets too hot. Local activities can be arranged from the resort including bicycle hire, sea kayaking (to Ibis Island), snorkeling with non-stinging jellyfish in Chetumal Bay, visiting Lake Bacalar (which is a giant limestone sink-hole, or cenote, known as the Lake of Seven Colours) and the Mayan ruins at Kohunlich, and exploring the edge of the vast Sian Ka’an Biosphere (home to over 300 bird species). Perhaps one of the most appealing features of Maya Ha Resort is its fabulous situation on one of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean. Diver or non-diver, it would be hard to resist a holiday in such a romantic, restful and wonderful location. Chinchorro Divers are situated right on the beach within the resort. They have two boats, which can take up to 20 and 30 divers respectively. Both boats are equipped with marine heads and have both shaded and sunbathing areas along with plenty of seating. Water, soft drinks and biscuits are provided between dives. Dives are offered on either the coastal reefs or to Banco Chinchorro, subject to local conditions and the guests’ preferences. On the days when the boat visits the bank, the boat leaves the dock at 0900 returning around 1630. Three dives are offered and a packed lunch is taken on the boat. For coastal reef diving, dive sites are located very close to the resort, so the boat leaves at 0930 and returns to the resort between dives. Lunch is taken in the resort. Two or three dives are offered on these days. Divers may follow the divemaster or are free to plan their own dives as they wish. Occasionally, dives are made in the freshwater cenote (limestone sink-hole) south of the resort, Cenote Azul. After diving, gear can be rinsed off in the tanks at the dive centre or using the outside cold water shower. There is plenty of storage space for dive gear, or alternatively you may take your gear back to your room for drying on your terrace. Getting to Maya Ha: The remote location of Maya Ha Resort contributes considerably to its ambiance and we feel it is well worth making the effort to visit this charming resort. Road transfers can easily be arranged and will take about 3 and a half hours from Cancun Airport. Alternatively, you can hire a car and drive yourself. Most of the road is good. Once past Playa del Carmen and the surrounding well developed tourist resorts, you will enjoy passing through small towns and Mexican villages, where you can stop and try out your Spanish to buy fruit (great avocados!) or visit a local restaurant to try your first Mexican dishes (tortillas with everything!), plus Molé (pronounced, mow-lay), a traditional savoury Mexican dish that uses chocolate. Don’t forget to add some chilli sauce like the locals do, but you may need a cerveza to wash it down! Having left much of civilization behind, you will find the last few kilometres of road much slower. Large potholes and a rough dirt road slow the pace of the driving once you get to the coast. Watch your tyres if you are driving yourself! Should you wish to combine your stay at Maya Ha with some time exploring Yucatan, car hire is essential. Our office can assist with car hire and hotel arrangements within the region. Garden View Villa: £655 (non-divers: £391) Ocean View Villa: £688 (non-divers: £424) Includes: • 7 nights full-board accommodation (breakfast, lunch and dinner) on a twin/share basis at Maya Ha Resort. • 5 days diving (3 boat dives a day at Banco Chinchorro or 2 or 3 per day on the coastal reefs), dive guide, cylinders and weights. Supplement for 6 days diving: £46 Please note: Transfers are not included. These cost £66 per person for the return journey between Cancun Airport and Maya Ha. Important: A supplement of £17 per person per night applies during a 9-night period in the last half of November around the Thanksgiving holiday and between 26 December-2 January. Additional Nights: Garden View Villa: £109 (without diving: £56) Ocean View Villa: £114 (without diving: £61) Single Occupancy Supplement: £19 per night in a Garden View Villa, £24 per night in an Ocean View Villa. Deposit: £300 FLIGHTS The airfares shown are the least expensive fare category available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class availability, at the time of booking. The usual airfare deposit is £100. CONTINENTAL AIRLINES Daily departures from London (Gatwick) to Cancun, via Houston, arriving in the evening. Return any day from Cancun in the afternoon via Houston, arriving at London (Gatwick) the following morning. Daily flights to Cancun are also available from Birmingham, Manchester and Glasgow via Newark at an extra charge of £15. An overnight stay in Newark is required on the outbound journey, which we can arrange for you. £552 for departures 1 January-14 March, 1 November-12 December £650 for departures 15-30 March (excluding Easter), 1-31 October £759 for departures 1 April-15 June (excluding Easter), 1-30 September £823 for departures at Easter, 15 June-31 August £917 for departures 13-31 December Includes: • Scheduled flights London (Gatwick)/Houston/Cancun/Houston/London (Gatwick) by Continental Airlines. Other holidays in The Caribbean |