SULAWESI SEAS, SULAWESI DAYS

A sure sign of a how good any trip was is the durability of the memories. Well this trip was outstanding because the quality of my memories from it are brilliant, fresh and vivid even now, months after returning to this grey and cold place!

I had dived in Indonesia before yet, even with this previous experience, I could never have imagined I would see a fraction of the creatures we saw during this trip. Moreover I am sure if I had visited these resorts without the assistance of Malcolm, I would still not have seen as many. The names of the wonderful creatures found in Sulawesi seas are exotic and enticing, but not as stunning as the creatures themselves; Ornate Ghost Pipefish, Pygmy Seahorses, Stargazers, Mandarinfish, Pegasus Seamoths and Hairy Frogfish, to name but a few.

Picture then our reaction when on the first night we were offered the chance to submit a wish list of all the creatures we hoped to see. Many rare and special creatures were placed on the list! Then imagine our surprise, delight and amazement when at the end of the two weeks, every single creature on the combined list had been seen by most of us! Though some of us had to work harder than others to achieve our goals!

The reason for our success rate is obvious. The support from Malcolm, our leader, was great and apparent from the very beginning before we even left the country, as helpful notes and suggestions arrived by post. In fact on reflection there was always the feeling of an invisible helper around. Potential difficulties had been foreseen and preventive measures put in place so that all arrangements went smoothly. It would be possible to think that this was normal and would have happened anyway, but I doubt there are many people who could whisk twelve very conspicuously overloaded and over-weight limit individuals through the check-in procedure at Heathrow as if we were on a day's picnic outing! Nor assist each of us achieve our 'wish list'

Once arrived, we were all able to benefit from Malcolm's many years of experience of Sulawesi. The first place was a charming Indonesian-owned and run resort. Malcolm's familiarity of the

place was helpful as he knew which sites we should visit and when. He had a good rapport with the local guides who were there to help us find these creatures if our own detection skills were not as finely tuned as we'd like! Here from Molas Beach, a mangrove edged resort area, we took daily boat trips to the nearby Bunaken-Manado Tua group of islands where classic 'drop-off' walls of coral, studded with life, or gently shelving reefs provided excellent photo opportunities. The islands themselves were charming and we twice kitted up with lively musical accompaniment from an entire village singing in their local Sunday Service. As one diver said "If church was as joyous as that at home, the streets would be empty". The boat crews were friendly, happy and helpful, but not intrusive: they had great senses of humour, which was infectious and good to be around!

We were able to dive three or four times a day. This was plenty for me, but I understand that for some this was not enough! (Perhaps nothing short of 24 hour immersion will suit some people?)

The second resort at Lembeh Strait provided many contrasts. The American ownership had influenced the style of the entire operation, and this was the first visible difference. The second was apparent as soon as we submerged. Gone were the crystal clear waters: we were now back to milky viz, currents and coarse sediments so reminiscent of

many UK places, but the 'critters' that liked this environment here were remarkable! They were there in such density and variety, each dive was like discovering a luxury version of an underwater box of 'Allsorts'. We saw frogfish, and Ghost Pipefish, and Pygmy Seahorses and snake eels and seamoths, and not just singly but often several in formation! On the amenities front, this place has to boast one of the most stunning views from a restaurant anywhere. The dining area, with large open balconies on three sides faced directly over the Strait, the channel between the mainland and Lembeh Island. Frequently sea eagles performed acrobatics in the air above, and strange local fishing craft passed up and down the channel. Most wonderful of all was to see the huge number of small craft head up the channel at night lit by gas lamps on their way to fish for squid.

For anyone not hell bent on breaking the underwater endurance record, there were plenty of other sights that could be reached from these resorts. Active volcanoes, villages specializing in fishing, cabinet making, pottery, basket making and other specialities and, not to be missed, the rainforest at nearby Tangkoko where the rare and endangered Tarsier monkey and playful Black Macaques can be seen. Current Holidays to MANADO, SULAWESI: 2005

Other reports from MANADO, SULAWESI: (1)

Other reports from South-East Asia