AT LAST!

After listening to how wonderful it was for the last four years, I actually got there. Where you may ask? Sipadan, that's where. Martin has come back, year after year, telling me of its glories and virtues. So, I decided it was about time I saw for myself and what's more, I had the added enjoyment of visiting the nearby island of Mabul.

Our journey was broken with a memorable overnight stay in Kota Kinabalu, at the luxurious Shangri La's

Tanjung Aru Resort, then we continued onwards to Sipadan via Tawau and Semporna. All-in-all, thirty-six hours worth of travelling. But don't let that put you off! For the treat which awaits puts all tiredness out of your mind. As we approached the island the blue sea met the white sand and the white sand met the green foliage, nestled in which is the Sipadan Dive Centre resort. The staff were waiting to greet us and our luggage was whisked away to our bungalow. The bungalows were basic, but clean, with en-suite facilities and sweet-water showers. The new dinning room looks out over the pier. Along side is the dive centre. Everything is well run with plenty of information on what's happening each day.

I had heard numerous tales of turtles in abundance. I soon found out that these were not tales but true facts. So many of them you soon lost count, along with all the Bumphead Parrotfish and schooling barracudas.

After five days we went to the Water Village (water being the operative word), situated on the Island of Mabul. The whole resort is built on stilts. All amenities are reached via walkways, which is fine in dry weather but a disadvantage when wet, although umbrellas are supplied! We were greeted with a cocktail on arrival and soon escorted to our bungalow. What a treat awaited: soft white sheets, hot showers, fluffy towels in abundance, gowns, slippers, bar - such luxury! Each bungalow had a lounge area, a

balcony on two sides and drying facilities.

The dive centre was well equipped and well organised, although the system takes a bit of getting used to and may appear somewhat regimented at first, but you soon get used to it. On the diving side, don't expect drop offs and walls of coral. This is strictly 'macro territory'. Good eyesight is a must, as some of the species are tiny to say the least. The house reef near the dive centre is littered with fish, eels, and octopus. In fact you name it, and you can find it. The outer reefs are well broken. Dynamiting has done a lot of damage here, but this is now outlawed, so hopefully the reefs will start to recover.

My overall impression? Well, its easy to say 'heaven on earth'. It's got its faults, but they are few and far between. The biggest one during our stay being the rain. When it does, it really does!

You must walk around both islands. Sipadan for the solitude and sunsets (if it only takes you 20 minutes then you have missed the point!), Mabul for the village and the people, so friendly and so desperate to learn your name.

Will I be back?

Oh yes.

Anyone available to children sit next year? Other reports from SIPADAN, BORNEO: (1)

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