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SIPADAN, BORNEO Year:2002
Sipadan's underwater paradise
Season: Year-round diving (optimum: April-October) Visibility: 15-40 metres Water temperature: 27-30°C
'No other place on this planet has more marine life than this island.' Worldwide Fund for Nature
'I have seen other places like Sipadan 45 years ago but now no more. Now we have found again an untouched piece of art.' Jacques Cousteau
Twenty miles off the east coast of Sabah in East Malaysia is Sipadan island. Miles away from civilization, alone in an expanse of clear blue sea, lies this tiny, green and gold, coral island. So small that it is rarely marked on any map, you can walk around it in 30 minutes! Sipadan is in reality the very tip of a precipitous sea mountain which rises steeply and majestically through the crystal waters of the Sulawesi Sea from a depth of over two thousand metres. Whilst most Malaysian islands rest on the shallow seabed of the continental shelf, it is its awe-inspiring location which gives Sipadan the unique characteristics which combine to provide a habitat for both reef and pelagic species. The most seasoned traveller and most widely experienced diver will still be overwhelmed by the magnificence and variety of life in the waters of Sipadan.
Sipadan is home to many thousands of turtles. Both Green and Hawksbill Turtles are found commonly in Sipadan's waters and are a frequent sight on many dives: indeed the 'turtle experience' at Sipadan is sometimes overwhelming! Draping gorgonians, gigantic sea fans, sponges of every imaginable shape and design, encrusting and soft corals, and countless varieties of sea-squirts form a glorious garden of colour providing life for innumerable multi-coloured, iridescent reef fish, some only a few millimetres long, others over two metres in length. A precipitous reef wall, Sipadan's most dramatic feature, supports schools of snappers, bright surgeonfish, bizarre, long-nosed unicornfish, Bigeye Trevallys, which hunt in huge schools, and swarms of swiftly moving fusiliers. Huge, buffalo-like Bumphead Parrotfish lunge at the coral, biting off large pieces as they feed.
Divers at Sipadan regularly encounter awesome and massive schools of Blackfin Barracuda which circle and swirl like an underwater tornado. Never far away, other large pelagic species cruise the offshore waters. White-tipped Reef Sharks constantly patrol the reef or laze in groups on sandy shelves. Scalloped Hammerheads, huge tuna and the occasional Manta Ray catch the sun's rays as they glide by in deeper waters. At night the reef community appears to change: the octopus emerges from its lair to feed, and cuttlefish, some up to a metre in length, remarkably change colour to match their habitat.
It is the sheer number and amazing variety of fish that makes Sipadan so special. The spectacular reef walls, with some flat reef crests to explore at shallower levels, provide the majority of dive sites. Sometimes light currents, which may change at different levels, assist the diver, allowing for delightfully relaxed diving with plenty of time to search the fascinating crevices whilst larger ocean-going fish cruise by on the seaward side.
Close to the pier, just a few metres from the shore, the pale aquamarine waters covering the shallow reefs and sandy seabed change abruptly into an intense shade of dark blue marking the beginning of the The Drop Off. Here a spectacular six hundred metre reef wall plunges almost vertically downwards. A dawn or early morning dive here is sure to reward the diver with massive schools of jacks, fusiliers, batfish and Yellowfin Goatfish. A parade of huge Napoleon Wrasse, ugly and seemingly deformed Bumphead Parrotfish, Amberjacks, turtles and White-tipped Reef Sharks cruise by undisturbed by the diver's presence. A solitary Great Barracuda frequently hovers at the crest of the reef, watching and waiting as the new day begins.
On the shallow reefs, where waves and coral meet, huge buttresses and majestic gullies provide homes for many thousands of species, including anemones with jewel-like colours, starfish and brittle stars, tiny, well-armoured shrimps that wave their antennae to attract fish to their cleaning stations, lobsters and crabs of all shapes and sizes, oysters with zig-zag openings to their shells, clams and many other molluscs. The so-called orchids of the sea, the nudibranchs, some with filigree frills of gills, search and graze the coral. The beautiful and highly coloured lionfish with its feather-like fins and venomous spines is a spectacular and common sight. Schools of large and impressive Oriental and Harlequin Sweetlips hover near the crest of the reef as if to welcome the ascending diver returning from the depths. Coral Groupers, wrasse of many kinds, delightful schools of fairy basslets, funny little anemonefish, several varieties of triggerfish and a host of other species swirl, dance and surge around or stand guard beneath the wide tables of coral.
Impressive and weird formations of limestone make a fascinating background in flooded Turtle Cavern. After entering the dark and eerie chamber, divers may first hear, and then see, the orange-gold squirrelfish which are noted for the unusual and characteristic sound that they make. (Sometimes this sound is so loud that it can be heard above the water!) Permanently guarding the entrance lies a large and solitary pufferfish. Deep within the cave lie the remains of turtles unable to find their way out before their last breath of air was used up. Divers must possess a Cave Diving Qualification if they wish to dive Turtle Cavern.
When the morning sun's rays filter into the water, bringing light to the reef off Barracuda Point, a large school of more than 60 Bumphead Parrotfish often assembles. Below, where the blue shades darker, Grey Reef Sharks, Leopard Sharks and Scalloped Hammerheads regularly cruise by. Slumbering peacefully on a sandy shelf are groups of up to 10 White-tipped Reef Sharks, while a colony of pretty little Garden Eels shyly peep out of their holes. Frequently here, or at South Point, a school of up to 1,000 Blackfin Barracudas circle and swirl in an amazing throng. The lucky diver may enter this whirlpool of giant fish and hover in the eye of this living hurricane.
When the diving is over, the sun's rays fade and darkness falls on Sipadan, walk along the pier where the ink-black ocean below sparkles with shining spots of phosphorescence - just like a mass of underwater fireflies. A large school of strange flashlightfish cruise the edge of The Drop Off. These fish are equipped with luminescent bacteria living in a patch below each eye. A special eyelid can cover this luminescent patch, giving rise to weird and fascinating flashing effects. Like a constantly moving flicker of light, the school moves and forages beneath the pier, while a million stars light the sky above. A night time snorkel, undisturbed by scuba or lights, allows the diver the privilege of becoming part of this amazing and beautiful scene, surrounded by nature's own lights. Only the gentle sighing and puffing of turtles surfacing for air disturbs the tranquility of the moment.
Offshore dive sites are all very close, being no more than five or ten minutes boat ride away. Opportunities for underwater photography are superb and many award-winning photographs have been taken here.
From July to September is the peak turtle breeding season and, under the supervision of the local naturalist, visitors can watch in the evening as the females come ashore to lay their eggs. Fragile and tiny, but perfectly formed, the newly hatched turtles scramble out of the sand and scuttle off to start their hazardous journey to the open sea. Of course there will be many turtle encounters underwater. In fact, hardly a dive will go by on Sipadan at the height of the season without the diver seeing many of these beautiful and increasingly rare creatures, perhaps resting lazily on rocky shelves or swimming gently by. Very close encounters of the turtle kind are frequent on Sipadan during most of the year!
Sipadan is a quiet and informal island with a limited choice of dive operators. After a period when the number of divers allowed onto the island threatened to spoil the very features that made Sipadan unique, numbers are now strictly limited to no more than 80 divers even at peak times. Accommodation is in simple, wooden, native-style chalets. Densely wooded with hardwood trees towering to over 40 metres, the luxuriant rainforest is home to more than 20 species of birds, including the rare Nicobar Pigeon and the strange flightless Tabon Scrubfowl (or Megapode). The dense undergrowth of the forest contains many exotic plants and animals. Small lizards scuttle around everywhere and huge monitor lizards often raid the rubbish dump for tasty morsels. Sipadan is now the only place in Malaysia where the huge Coconut Crab is to be found.
As one strolls across the coral sands, the evening air may be filled with the perfume of the flowering fig trees, yet another reminder that nature surrounds one on Sipadan. There will, of course, be time to relax and enjoy the beauty of the island above the waves and, because it has remained relatively undisturbed for so long, there is much to see despite its small size.
SIPADAN DIVE CENTRE
Sipadan Dive Centre has a well-earned, excellent reputation for the quality of its service and its diving management. Sipadan Dive Centre, which is nowadays limited to around 14 divers at any one time, has a number of well-shaded chalets which peep out of the forest at the water's edge. Each recently-refurbished, more spacious room is equipped with two single beds, ceiling fan, desk and reading lamps. Chalets have en-suite bathrooms with a shower and hot water. An airy and spacious recreation and dining hall is where food is served five times a day. All meals are buffet-style and a delicious variety of Chinese and Malaysian dishes are prepared. Tea, coffee, water and orange squash are always available. In this friendly and relaxed atmosphere new friendships are soon forged and the latest discoveries and the finest dive stories are exchanged over a welcome and refreshing glass of beer.
To reach The Drop Off for shore diving, or for boat diving when the tide is out, a short walk of about 70 metres is required.
Boats leave for offshore dive sites three times each day, with two dives in the morning and one dive scheduled for the afternoon. The dive sites are all within a five or ten minutes boat ride. Shore diving is available at any time. Night diving is easily available on request.
Sipadan is reached by taking a short flight from Kota Kinabalu to Tawau on the east coast of Sabah and then a road transfer of about one and a half hours to the small port town of Semporna. From there it is about an hour by boat to the island.
£525 (non-divers: £480) for 5 nights £620 (non-divers: £566) for 6 nights £715 (non-divers: £652) for 7 nights
Includes: ·Scheduled flights Kota Kinabalu/Tawau/Kota Kinabalu and road/boat transfers between Tawau and Sipadan. · 5, 6 or 7 nights full-board accommodation, including tea, coffee and orange squash, on a twin/share basis at Sipadan Dive Centre. · 4, 5 or 6 full days of diving (3 boat dives daily and unlimited shore diving including night dives), dive guide on boat dives, cylinders and weights. Those arriving on Sipadan in the morning will also be able to have one or two dives on the day of arrival. · Sipadan Marine Park diving permit.
Additional Nights: £95 (non-divers: £86).
Single Occupancy Supplement: If you are travelling alone and are willing to share a twin cabin on Sipadan with someone of the same sex you can avoid paying any supplement. If you prefer to have a cabin to yourself a 50% supplement applies.
Deposit: £100 per person.
FLIGHTS
The airfares shown are the least expensive fare category available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class availability, at the time of booking. The usual airfare deposit is £100.
SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Depart on Monday or Friday morning from London (Heathrow) bound for Kota Kinabalu via Singapore, arriving the following morning. Continue via Tawau to Mabul the same day, arriving on the island in the late afternoon on Tuesday or Saturday. Return from Mabul to Kota Kinabalu via Tawau on Monday or Friday and overnight there at an hotel. Depart from Kota Kinabalu on Tuesday or Saturday morning, connecting with a late evening departure from Singapore that arrives at London (Heathrow) on Wednesday or Sunday morning.
Flights are also available from Manchester at no extra charge.
£616 for departures 1 January-21 March, 1 April-30 June, 1 September-9 December. £803 for departures 22-31 March, 1 July-31 August, 10-31 December.
Includes: · Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Singapore/Kota Kinabalu/Singapore/London (Heathrow) by Singapore Airlines.
MALAYSIA AIRLINES
Daily midday departures from London (Heathrow) to Kota Kinabalu via Kuala Lumpur, arriving the following morning or midday. After an overnight at an hotel in Kota Kinabalu, continue via Tawau early next morning and arrive on Mabul before midday. Return from Mabul to Kota Kinabalu via Tawau on any day of the week. There are daily return flights in the evening from Kota Kinabalu via Kuala Lumpur, arriving at London (Heathrow) the following morning.
Flight connections are also available from Manchester to Kuala Lumpur at no additional cost. Flights depart from Manchester on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday. Return flights leave Kuala Lumpur on Monday, Wednesday and Friday.
£624 for departures 1 January-21 March, 1 April-30 June, 16 August-9 December, 25-31 December. £686 for departures 22- 31 March. £861 for departures 1 July-15 August, 10-24 December.
Includes: · Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Kuala Lumpur/Kota Kinabalu/Kuala Lumpur/London (Heathrow) by Malaysia Airlines.
Business Class Upgrades: These are available on Malaysia Airlines between the UK and Kuala Lumpur or Kota Kinabalu at attractive rates. Please contact our office for details.
Overnights in Kota Kinabalu: £40 per night room-only at the luxurious Shangri-La's Tanjung Aru Resort on a twin/share basis. A single occupancy supplement of £40 per night applies. Please note: Airport/hotel transfers cost £7 each way.
SINGAPORE STOP-OVERS
Singapore offers an almost endless variety of fabulous shopping, gastronomic delights and entertainments. A visit to Singapore, either before or after your diving holiday, can be as relaxing or as exciting as you wish to make it. Shop till you drop, down a few Singapore Slings or take 'tiffin' (high tea) at the famous Raffles. Why not take the opportunity to explore Singapore for yourself? Singapore Airlines and Malaysia Airlines fly between London and Singapore daily and stop-overs are available at no additional airfare.
The Golden Landmark Hotel is a straightforward, inexpensive but perfectly adequate hotel with 393 rooms, all with en suite bathroom, air-conditioning, TV with in-house films, mini bar, international direct dial telephone and hair-dryer. An outside swimming pool offers guests the chance for a refreshing dip. The Landmark Coffee Shop serves a mixture of local and continental dishes and the Lobby Lounge is a relaxing spot to enjoy a cool drink or try a cocktail. The Golden Landmark is the nearest hotel to Changi Airport (about 15 minutes away by taxi), is situated a few minutes walk from Singapore's oldest mosque and is just two minutes walk from a Metro station. All of Singapore's attractions are easily reached using the very inexpensive and easy to use Metro lines.
£23 per night for room-only on a twin/share basis. Single Occupancy Supplement: £23 per night.
The Marina Mandarin Hotel, a luxurious, first-class hotel on Raffles Boulevard, just a few minutes walk from the famous Raffles Hotel, has 575 very pleasant and spacious air-conditioned rooms with en suite bathrooms, international direct dial telephone, mini bar and hair-dryer. All rooms are situated around an impressive internal atrium and have good views over the city or the nearby coastline. The Marina Mandarin has many additional facilities including a superb fitness centre and a splendid outdoor swimming pool with a bar and coffee shop adjacent. On many evenings a complementary Singapore cultural show can be seen here, featuring local dancing and singing. A Chinese Restaurant and an Italian Restaurant are available for those who wish to eat 'in house'. A 24-hour coffee shop provides breakfast, snacks and light meals and drinks are available in the impressive Atrium Lounge. The Marina Mandarin Hotel is about a 20 minute taxi ride from the airport.
£52 per night for room-only on a twin/share basis. Single Occupancy Supplement: £52 per night.
Please note that airport transfers are not included. Taxis are freely available and reasonably priced.
COMBINING SIPADAN WITH MABUL
It is very easy to extend your holiday in Borneo and visit Mabul island, only a short boat ride from Sipadan, with its fascinating 'macro life'. To calculate the total cost simply add the cost of a stay on Sipadan to the cost of a stay on Mabul, deducting £100 from the total in order to allow for reduced flight and transfer costs.
COMBINING SIPADAN WITH LAYANG LAYANG
Why not extend your holiday in Borneo and combine a visit to Sipadan with a stay on famous Layang Layang island with its superb 'open-ocean' diving'? To calculate the total cost simply add the cost of a stay on Sipadan to the cost of a stay on Layang Layang, plus appropriate international flight costs and Kota Kinabalu hotel costs. Note: if visiting Layang Layang after Sipadan, two hotel nights are required in Kota Kinabalu (one on first arrival, the other between Sipadan and Layang Layang, as the flight to the latter leaves early in the morning) if flying with Malaysia Airlines. Two nights (one between Sipadan and Layang Layang, the other at the end of the holiday) are also required if using Singapore Airlines. Reports from previous trips to SIPADAN, BORNEO: (2) (1) |