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MANADO, SULAWESI Year:2003
Spectacular diving from Indonesia's 'starfish island'
Season: Year-round diving (optimum: April-November) Visibility: 12-30 metres Water temperature: 27-30°C
Set in the middle of the Indonesian archipelago, and astride the equator, the starfish-shaped island of Sulawesi hosts a rich marine environment. Something like 3,000 species of fish populate the Indonesian islands and seemingly a high proportion of them live in the waters that surround Sulawesi!
Close to the northern tip of the island is the bustling town of Manado, easily reached by direct flight from Singapore. Only a few miles away, within an easy boat ride, is the Bunaken-Manado Tua Marine Park, an area of great underwater beauty. Here you may see varieties of fish species and invertebrates that have rarely been encountered before the local dive guides frequently spot new species for the area or even sometimes undescribed species. Schooling species and colourful reef fish are all to be found in abundance, and with luck you may encounter a pod of Short-finned Pilot Whales or dolphins whilst travelling to the dive sites.
The Bunaken-Manado Tua Marine Park boasts one of the richest varieties of marine life in the world. Coral reefs surround each of the five islands within the reserve, beginning with a flat reef crest at about 3 metres and then sloping down steeply or dropping off vertically for hundreds of metres. The walls are crowded with hard and soft corals, barrel sponges, sea fans, whip corals and red and orange encrusting sponges. Amidst all this is an abundance of brightly coloured tunicates and a profusion of colourful feather stars perched on upstanding corals and sea fans. Vast schools of smartly coloured Pyramid Butterflyfish and masses of anthias dance around the reef edge and the upper part of the wall. Banded Sea Snakes are frequently seen winding their way through the crevices in the reef. White-tip Reef Sharks, Napoleon Wrasse, Spotted Eagle Rays and Bumphead Parrotfish are but a few of the larger fish regularly seen. Leaf Scorpionfish, the weird Giant Frogfish, blennies and gobies, and Blue Ribbon Eels (including the yellow female and black and yellow juvenile forms) are less easy to spot but are not uncommon.
There are at least 20 recognized dive sites, mostly concentrated off the south and west coasts of Bunaken Island. Most dives are slow drifts along the reef wall but some sites have an occasional stronger current offering a more exciting drift, while others are interesting 'muck dives' on areas of silty sand or coral rubble.
What better dive site to start with than Mandolin Point on the western side of Bunaken? A wide flat reef top only a metre or so deep is bounded by a steep drop-off where you can explore at your own chosen depth. Luxuriant coral growth on the wall provides a suitable background for an abundance of purple, yellow and white tunicates that sit like ceramic ornaments on the ledges and encrusting sponges. White-tip Reef Sharks, barracudas, sea snakes and turtles are often spotted here.
At Fukui Point the stepped profile of the reef is encrusted with an amazing 'field' of stony corals, including table, elkhorn, staghorn, lace, brain and cabbage, covering the gently sloping 'hillside'. Carefully search amongst the 'arms' of the colourful crinoids and you are may be rewarded with a sight of an Ornate Ghost Pipefish. These remarkably camouflaged small fish (well-beloved of the underwater photographer) float head down within or close to the arms of the crinoid and at first glance may appear like a detached piece of the crinoid's 'arms'. The dive guides will be sure to point out to you the giant clams. Four giant clams with iridescent blue, green,purple, brown and black mantles lie in a regimented formation. Their slowly opening and closing siphons offer an amazing opportunity to gaze right inside the animal! The sloping reef gradually gives way to the deeps and at this point large schools of Teira Batfish glint and shimmer silver and gold in the sunlight while baraccuda and schools of Midnight and Black Snappers drift over the reef. A curious Napoleon Wrasse is often attracted to the boat anchorage to gaze warily at the strangers from beyond his realm.
At the marvellous Engine Point (named because a brand-new boat engine was lost overboard just off here in 100 metres!) the entire dive can be completed within the top 12 metres. A pair of Blue Ribbon Eels live in adjacent holes, but occasionally pose for visitors by 'snarling' and gaping out of the same hole. Goldspeck Jawfish (fascinating fish who incubate their young within their mouths) can be seen warily peeping from their borrow and Mantis Shrimps, either hiding in crevices or scuttling frantically around before zooming under a rock, are a common sight here. Beautiful and brightly-coloured nudibranchs can be found in abundance and the sharp-eyed dive guides may be able to find you a strange and almost perfectly camouflaged Robust Ghost Pipefish floating like a fragment of dead turtle grass.
A night dive at Black Rock will certainly rate as spectacular, even by those who normally shun the idea of night diving! Coral bommies litter this shallow sandy shelf and the jewels of the ocean are certainly here to see. Slowly wandering sea urchins with their small 'families' of fish and shrimps 'walk' over the sand in a glow of red and black when spotlighted. Perhaps a hermit crab whose shell is decorated with swaying anemones may crawl past. Deep crimson 'sea hares', stroll along the sand. Peep into a crevice or under a rocky shelf to find the small elegant Banded Pipefish or perhaps a surprise if a Black-edged Conger Eel is hunting there! Why not use the safety stop to wriggle around and produce your own light show from the luminescent micro-organisms?!
For those staying at the Santika Manado Hotel, trips can be arranged to the wonderful and remote Bangka Island with Thalassa Dive Centre. The journey takes about one hour by Thalassa's swift speedboat and is well-worth taking! Sahaung Island has most extensive soft coral gardens of a type rarely seen in this area. Descend to about 20 metres and look up at the glowing 'flowers' of orange, yellow, white, pink and blue corals festooning the low walls. To add to this enchanting technicolor display one may also witness black coral polyps feeding, along with the gorgeous citrus yellow polyps of the tubastrea corals.
For those wishing to take a break from diving, Northeast Sulawesi offers some fascinating attractions. A short car drive away is the volcano Mahawu. A trek up a well trodden path through lush thick vegetation brings you to the top of the crater. Walk around the perimeter and look down on the seething turquoise cauldron. Drive alongside rich green rice fields by Lake Tondano where local fish farmers and their families live on the water in timber shacks balanced on stilts, or make a trip through small villages alive with local life. Enjoy the spectacular mountain scenery or explore the tropical rain forest at Tangkoko in search of the Spectral Tarsier, the smallest carnivorous monkey in the world, Black Macaques (four tribes of these wonderful primates live in the forest here and are easily seen) numerous bird species that are only to be found on Sulawesi and huge iridescent butterflies.
SANTIKA MANADO HOTEL
Built on a low hill above the shoreline, the attractive Santika Manado Hotel looks out across the sea to the offshore islands, including Bunaken and the conical Manado Tua. There are 101 very well-appointed guest rooms with en-suite facilities and air-conditioning. Most rooms are situated in the main hotel, but there are also 28 cottages scattered about the grounds. Superior and Deluxe rooms have a large double bed or twin beds, en suite bathroom (with shower only in Superior Rooms) and balcony. Deluxe Rooms have a more scenic view across the sea to Manado Tua. The Deluxe Cottages offer especially spacious and well-equipped accommodation with a king-sized bed or large twin beds. They have a spacious, well-equipped bathroom. Separated by a screen from the main bedroom area is a small 'living area' with sofa and low table. A small private terrace with chairs offers the opportunity to sit outside. The hotel has a lovely swimming pool with pool-side bar. The impressive public areas are especially pleasant, being built in local style and open to any breezes blowing in from the sea. The restaurant serves local Indonesian and International cuisine. A very pleasant bar area serves an excellent variety of cocktails! If you want high quality accommodation while diving at Manado, this is now the obvious choice. Non-diving partners will certainly appreciate the comfortable facilities.
The Thalassa Dive Centre at the hotel is a PADI 5 star centre and is run by Simone Gerittson, an enthusiastic Dutch expatriate. Thalassa has all the latest equipment and their fast aluminium dive boats or powerfully driven wooden boats will whisk you out to dive sites at Bunaken in a mere 10-20 minutes! Situated close to the hotel's swimming pool, the dive centre is connected by a long walk-way to the boat pier and your dive gear will be taken to and from the boats for you. At the end of the day you can take a hot shower at the dive centre and enjoy complimentary coffee and snacks in the pleasant reception area. On some evenings lively entertainment is provided in Thalassa's bar.
Thalassa's diving programme includes two dives at different sites and a picnic lunch taken either on the boat or on a beach. Those opting for three dives per day leave the dock earlier and take two dives in the morning and one in the afternoon. Thalassa is used to catering for keen underwater photographers and the dive guides here are remarkably skilful at finding rare or unusual marine 'critters' to fascinate and excite their clients. Trips to Bangka Island and also to Lembeh Straits can be arranged locally for an additional charge (currently US $15.00 per person for the former, US $17.50 for the latter). Night dives can also be arranged locally.
Superior Room £295 (non-divers: £127) for 5 nights £361 (non-divers: £151) for 6 nights £427 (non-divers: £175) for 7 nights
Deluxe Room £320 (non-divers: £152) for 5 nights £391 (non-divers: £181) for 6 nights £462 (non-divers: £210) for 7 nights
Deluxe Cottage £340 (non-divers: £172) for 5 nights £415 (non-divers: £205) for 6 nights £490 (non-divers: £238) for 7 nights
Includes: · Airport transfers. · 5, 6 or 7 nights room and breakfast accommodation on a twin/share basis at Santika Manado Hotel. · 4, 5 or 6 days diving (2 boat dives daily, including lunches), dive guide, cylinders and weights.
Supplement for three boat dives daily: £21 per day.
Supplement for dinner to be included: £13 per night.
Additional Nights:
Superior Room £66 (without diving: £24)
Deluxe Room £71 (without diving: £29)
Deluxe Cottage £75 (without diving: £33)
Single Occupancy Supplement: £19 per night in a Superior Room, £23 per night in a Deluxe Room, £28 per night in a Deluxe Cottage.
Deposit: £100
NUSANTARA DIVING CENTRE
Nusantara Diving Centre was established in 1975 and pioneered diving activities in Manado. This simple and quirky but much-loved establishment is situated on the water's edge close to the village of Molas, a little to the northeast of Manado. Set in several acres of garden, the accommodation consists of fan-cooled or air-conditioned rooms located in scattered single-storey buildings. All the rooms have private 'garden' bathrooms (part of the bathroom is open to the sky and contains a variety of tropical plants) with ample supplies of hot water. The bedrooms are simply furnished but clean with either one double or two single beds, a wardrobe and a table.
Breakfast is served in the 'reception area', which is dominated by a huge 8 metre-tall 'heroic' statue of a diver complete with mask, fins and snorkel! Lunch is prepared every morning and carried on to the boat. You will usually be offered fish, rice and vegetables along with fruit and bottled water, which can be taken on the boat or sometimes on one of the islands.
When you get back from your dive relax and enjoy reliving the day's dive experiences with your fellow divers whilst you have an 'afternoon tea' of local delicacies such as sticky rice cakes. While you are winding down, Nusantara's staff will be carrying back your dive gear, rinsing it off and storing it ready for the next day's diving. 'Dress up' for dinner in T-shirt and shorts and while you are eating Indonesian or Chinese specialities you may well be entertained with live music by the resident group (some of the dive staff wearing a different hat!). Self service buffets consist of a tasty variety of dishes which may include satay chicken, barbecues and freshly grilled fish with a choice of rice or noodles and vegetables. Desert is usually fresh fruits such as mango, papaya or deliciously ripe pineapple. The fun-loving Indonesian staff enjoy music and love to sing. Each night provides new 'stars' as they take the stage and take over the microphone! Of course you too can join in the sing-song or you can retire to the bar and enjoy a cool beer in peace.
Nusantara Diving Centre use traditional wooden local boats which leave the jetty in the morning, after breakfast, returning mid-afternoon. Your dive gear will be carried onto the boat for you and the journey to the dive sites typically takes between 30-60 minutes on a generally calm sea. Nusantara's diving programme includes two dives at different sites and a picnic lunch taken either on the boat or on a beach. An optional third dive is available. Night dives can be arranged locally. For a small extra charge, non-divers are welcome on the boats and can snorkel while the divers dive. Each boat will typically carry between 4-10 divers and 2-3 dive guides. The diving regime is relaxed and divers are free to buddy up, dive with a dive guide or swim along in a group. The guides have an amazing skill at pointing out any unusual marine life. Many underwater photographers find this of great value in their quest for the ultimate photograph! There are no hard and fast rules about depths or dive times but divers are reminded to stay within safety limits and decompression diving is discouraged. Day trips can be arranged to Lembeh Straits for an extra fee. Divers will travel by road to Bitung (about one and a half hour) where they will join a local boat for the day's diving. The charge for this is currently US $20.00 per person if there are two or more divers and US $40.00 if only one diver.
Important: Nusantara Dive Centre is a simple 'rustic' kind of place and not to be compared with the kind of accommodations we mostly feature. The locally-made wooden boats are seaworthy but have flaking paintwork and you should rely on your own first-aid kit rather than expect the boat to have one! Flotsam and jetsam from nearby Manado washes up at the dock on every tide, defeating all attempts to keep the place tidy. Many people like Nusantara because its dive centre is the most experienced in the area, with dive guides who are expert at assisting keen photographers find their target species, and also because it has a very friendly, relaxed atmosphere making it suitable for single travellers as well as couples and groups. It is also inexpensive, reflecting the fairly basic nature of the accommodation. You can enjoy some of the Asia's best diving here without spending a lot.
Standard Room (fan-cooled) £347 (non-divers: £110).
Air-conditioned Room £420 (non-divers: £163).
Includes: · Airport transfers. · 7 nights full-board accommodation on a twin/share basis, including tea, coffee and orange squash, at Nusantara Diving Centre. · 6 days diving (2 boat dives daily), dive guide, cylinders and weights.
Supplement for three boat dives daily: £11 per day.
Additional Nights:
Standard Room (fan-cooled) £56 (without diving: £16).
Air-conditioned Room £66 (without diving: £23).
Single Occupancy Supplement: £4 per night in a Standard Room (fan-cooled), £7 per night in an Air-conditioned Room.
Deposit: £100
BUNAKEN CHA CHA DIVE LODGE
Bunaken-Manado Tua Marine Park includes five inhabited islands: Bunaken, Siladen, Manado Tua, Mantehage and Nain. Situated on the quiet eastern side of Bunaken Island itself, is the small and intimate Bunaken Cha Cha Dive Lodge, which takes a maximum of only eight people in four twin or double wooden bungalows. Raphael Downey (an Irish-Italian brought up mainly in Britain) and Reiko (his Japanese wife), the couple who designed and built the resort (which is also their home) wanted to make this the finest small dive resort in the area. With the help of a local dive guide with many years of experience, they first opened their doors to clients in October 1999. Their aim is to offer attention to detail and the quality of personal service which can only be achieved in such an intimate resort.
The five double/twin cottages are constructed of local timber in traditional style. Each has its own bathroom with shower (tropical temperature only), toilet and wash basin. There is a ceiling fan, mosquito net, a vanity table with mirror and wardrobe. Outside there is a large verandah overlooking the private beach and to the outer islands in the distance. A short walk through the garden brings you to the main reception and dining area. Relax on the balcony perched on stilts above the sea and enjoy a cool beer or a local cocktail while watching local fishermen pass in their canoes, or maybe a pod of dolphins returning to open water. In the evening a moonlit sky and myriads of stars makes a most romantic setting.
Meals are a mixture of Indonesian, Italian and Japanese, with fresh fish a speciality. The menu is set, but with sufficient variety to suit everyone. Guests with special requirements can be catered for by prior arrangement. A small bar is available for the purchase of refreshments including local beer, local spirits and fresh fruit juices (in season).
Electricity is supplied to the island for 12 hours each day from 1730 until 0530, but the resort has a generator should the supply fail. Water is scarce on the island, so guests are asked to be conservative with their consumption. For all drinking and cooking, bottled mineral water is used.
All dives are conducted from the dive boat and groups of divers are kept very small (usually 3 divers per guide).
Guests will be met at the Airport in Manado and transported by road to the town. The boat to the island is moored on the muddy river and accessed through one of the local shops. This is makes a fascinating and 'colourful' introduction to Indonesian local life as you enter an egg shop and depart by boat from the rear of the shop. As you leave the town and journey up the river towards the sea you will witness Asian life in full swing! The journey to Bunaken Cha Cha Dive Lodge will take about 40 minutes. The trip to the island is a special journey in itself with ample opportunity to admire the approaching islands or to look back to the mainland for a panoramic view of the mountains. It is a 'wet' landing at Bunaken, so guests are requested to wear shorts and sandals. Arrangements can be made for guests to change out of their travelling clothes into 'island dress' before embarkation if required. On arrival your luggage will be taken to your room while you will be invited to the dining area to relax.
Bunaken Cha Cha Dive Resort with its stunningly romantic setting makes an excellent choice for couples or groups of friends with a reasonable level of diving experience. Single travelers may also enjoy the peaceful, family-style atmosphere.
£407 (non-divers: £211) for 5 nights. £498 (non-divers: £252) for 6 nights £589 (non-divers: £293) for 7 nights
Includes: · Transfers between Manado International Airport and Bunaken Cha Cha Dive Resort by road and boat. · 5, 6 or 7 nights full-board accommodation on a twin/share basis, including mineral water, tea and coffee at Bunaken Cha Cha Dive Resort. · 4, 5 or 6 days of diving (2 boat dives daily), dive guide, cylinders and weights.
Supplement for 3 boat dives daily: £18 per day. Supplement for a night dive: £22.
Additional Nights: £91 (non-divers £41).
Single Occupancy Supplement: £24 per night.
Deposit: £100
FLIGHTS
The airfares shown are the least expensive fare category available at the time of going to press. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on current fare levels and booking class availability, at the time of booking. The usual airfare deposit is £100.
SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Depart by Singapore Airlines on Sunday, Tuesday or Friday morning from London (Heathrow) bound for Singapore, arriving the following morning and connecting with a Silk Air flight arriving in Manado in the early afternoon. Return flights leave Manado on Monday, Wednesday or Saturday afternoons, connecting with a Singapore Airlines late evening departure from Singapore that arrives at London (Heathrow) the next morning.
Flights are also available from Manchester at no extra charge.
£585 for departures 1 January-30 June (excluding Easter), 1 September-9 December, 24-31 December. £735 for departures at Easter, 1 July-31 August, 10-23 December.
Includes: · Scheduled flights London (Heathrow)/Singapore/London (Heathrow) by Singapore Airlines. · Scheduled flights Singapore/Manado/Singapore by Silk Air.
SINGAPORE STOP-OVERS
Why not take the opportunity to explore Singapore as part of your holiday? Singapore Airlines fly between London and Singapore daily and stop-overs are available at no additional airfare. We can arrange your hotel accommodation: for details please see the Southern Thailand entry in this brochure.
COMBINING MANADO AND KUNGKUNGAN BAY
Why not combine an exploration of the Manado region with a stay at the fabulous Kungkungan Bay Resort, situated on the south side of the northern 'starfish arm' of Sulawesi and world famous for its unusual creatures and especially its 'macro life'. The cost of staying at Kungkungan Bay Resort can be found in the Kungkungan Bay brochure entry. Reports from previous trips to MANADO, SULAWESI: (1) (2) |