South-East Asia
KOMODO & THE NUSA TENGGARA
Diving Dragon Island and Beyond
Season: Year-round diving
Visibility: 10-40 metres
Water Temperature: 26-28°C
The weird and wonderful Hairy Frogfish (Malcolm Hey)
The long chain of islands extending eastwards from Bali are known to Indonesians as the Nusa Tenggara (or Southeast Islands). Lying just south of the equator, these dry volcanic islands number around 600 and some are uninhabited. The amazing diving in this area is characterized by its incredible variety of reef types and the sheer diversity of its marine life, ranging from tiny critters to very big fish. Caves, walls, drop-offs and superb reefs are all easily accessible. Above water one may see pods of dolphins or Short-finned Pilot Whales migrating to the Pacific Ocean. In summary, almost whatever you are looking for, you should find! The western part of this little-known region is now explored by three top quality liveaboards: Mermaid I, Siren and Komodo Dancer. No visit to the western Nusa Tenggara would be complete without a visit to Komodo, the island known worldwide for its population of Komodo Dragons, the planet’s largest extant lizard – an agile predator that can grow up to 3 metres in length! All three liveaboards include a shore visit to Komodo in their programmes.
The easternmost islands of the Nusa Tenggara, often referred to as the Alor Archipelago and including the islands of Lembata, Pantar and Alor, are remote and surrounded by little-dived, clear blue waters. At certain times of year Komodo Dancer explores this little-known region, which offers frontier diving experiences.
THE WESTERN NUSA TENGGARA (INCLUDING KOMODO NATIONAL PARK)
During the cruise you will dive some beautiful sites around the islands of Satonda, Banta, Sangeang, the Gilis (off the island of Lombok) and Rinca (the island to the southeast of Komodo). All cruises spend time at Komodo Island itself, where there will be an opportunity to look for Komodo Dragons. The reefs of the Nusa Tenggara are for the most part very well preserved, although there is some minimal damage from blast-fishing in some areas. Both schooling fish and larger pelagics, plus turtles, dolphins and, possibly, pods of Short-finned Pilot Whales, make for interesting and varied diving. Whale Sharks have been seen in the area and there are a couple of Manta Ray cleaning stations. Gently sloping reefs, steep walls covered in soft and hard corals, underwater seamounts and soft sandy seabeds form the backdrop for some great fish-watching. Black, Picasso and Clown Triggerfish, Regal and Emperor Angelfish and the startlingly brilliant yellow angelfish with big blue lips, known as Three-spotted Angelfish, are colourful and common in this area.
Satonda Island, half way along the northern coast of Sumbawa, has some fascinating dive sites where the reefs are in excellent shape and hold a wide range of corals and fish life. Sand Chute consists of a sandy slope with coral and sponge outcrops, but the highlight here is ‘magic rock’ – a bommie at 22 metres that packs a multitude of marine life into every nook and cranny! Juvenile angelfish abound, presenting everyone with identification problems as the young fish are so different from the adult forms. Hingebeak shrimps, cleaner shrimps, nudibranchs in fabulous green, orange and black, sweepers, a variety of leafish, wonderfully camouflaged decorator crabs, upside down jellyfish, Crocodilefish and Stargazers illustrate the variety of species that occur here.
Within the Komodo National Park is the habitat for about 1000 fish species, over 250 species of reef-building corals, at least 105 species of crustaceans and over 70 species of sponges. Little wonder this relatively newly discovered area is proving highly appealing to more adventurous divers. At Larry’s Yellow Wall two yellow-clad reef walls are separated by a sand valley, and were recently described by our own Malcolm Hey as “the most beautiful walls I have ever seen”! An abundance of yellow crinoids, yellow cascading coral and plentiful soft Dendrophyllia corals in shades of soft yellow cover every spare centimetre. A unique dive site! Tora Longkoi, in the south of Komodo is home to a Manta Ray cleaning station with, so far, a 99% success rate in witnessing these wonderful giants of the reef. Watching these amazing creatures circle and loop the loop is one of diving’s most captivating experiences.
Gili Lawa Laut, a submerged rock to the north east of Komodo has several stunning dive sites. The diving at this coral-covered rock is famous for warm, clear water full of schooling fish. The lovely, sulky-looking Oriental Sweetlips (the Angelina Jolie of the underwater world!) hang out here. Venture out seawards to the areas where the current picks up and you should be rewarded by stunning views of jacks and some very large tuna.
Cannibal’s Rock is a pinnacle rising to within a few metres of the surface where Pygmy Seahorses, anchored to sea fans, have been spotted by some keen-eyed divers. Both hard and soft corals cover the pinnacle and hide a stunning variety of creatures. Crinoids, tunicates, cowries, fire urchins, pretty spotted Coleman Shrimps and zebra crabs find Cannibal’s Rock a suitable home. Larger creatures attracted to this area include huge tuna and ocean-roaming jacks.
Sangeang Island lies at the eastern end of Sumbawa. Underwater photographers are advised to take the wide-angle lens if offered a dive on Mentjeng Wall where a shore-line wall at 15 metres leads to a point which is covered with very pretty soft corals and crinoids. Below the wall a rubble slope hosts colonial anemones, a variety of nudibranchs (mating pairs make excellent subjects for photographers!), Ornate Ghost Pipefish, and those superb walking ‘plants’– crinoids – hanging on to the rubble.
We don’t usually write-up inland locations amongst our dive sites, but there has to be an exception when it comes to Komodo Island for everyone will want to be amongst those who ‘hunt’ for the famous Komodo Dragon, the world’s largest and most ferocious lizard. Up to 3 metres in length, their diet consists mainly of wild deer, wild boar and sometimes other ‘dragons’. They can eat up to 80% of their body weight at one sitting! According to local reports (or perhaps legend), at least 8 humans have been attacked or eaten by dragons. However, it is most likely that you will encounter these creatures lying on a log in the morning sun, or seeking shade later in the day. The flicking tongue will not be issuing forth smoke and fire, but is used as an organ for detecting smell. With luck, you may catch a glimpse of one ‘jogging’ along the beach.
THE EASTERN NUSA TENGGARA (INCLUDING THE ALOR ARCHIPELAGO)
The waters that flow between Pantar and Alor sweep round small islands and islets, and connect the Savu and Banda Seas. The currents created by this water movement provides some thrilling drift diving and some great pelagic sightings. Tuna, sharks, Manta Rays, Napoleon Wrasse and schools of Big-eye Jacks can be seen. There are even reports of sightings of the elusive and magnificent Mola Mola, or sunfish, from time to time. But there are tranquil reefs too, often covered by soft and hard corals with their many-coloured fishy inhabitants dodging through the nooks and crannies. The Volcanic nature of this area gives rise to the ‘black gold’ sand and rubble sites which are endlessly fascinating to divers who enjoy their fish and invertebrate identification and, of course, underwater photographers.
The islands themselves are dominated by jagged mountains and steep valleys, making travel to the interior extremely difficult, but keeping the islands’ indigenous ethnic groups isolated from the outside world and even from each other. Shore trips on the tiny island of Ternate will provide a fascinating insight in to the lives of the people who live here Their Ikat textiles, for which the locals are famous, are woven from local materials. The Alor Archipelago is becoming recognised as a ‘hidden’ diving area of Indonesia where good visibility and warm waters combine to offer superb diving. Diving The Edge at Ternate offers superb wall diving with caves and overhangs too. But the big attraction of this area (where visibility regularly reaches 45 metres!) is pelagic spotting. Sharks, Dogtooth Tuna and Manta Rays can be seen here, and several sightings of Whale Sharks have been confirmed. At the southern tip of Pulau Buaya, an underwater wall stretches around the island. Punctuated with caves, there is much to explore, if you can see through the curtains of fusiliers that swarm all over the wall! Bigeye Jacks, those buffalos of the sea – Bumphead Parrotfish, and Napoleon Wrasse are common in this area where healthy Acropora and Tubastrea corals cover every available nook and cranny.
For those who enjoy the fascination of smaller marine life, the sand and silty bottom of a dive in front of a village close to Kalabahi holds many secrets. Search amongst the rocks and the odd coral heads to find ghost pipefish, Cockatoo Waspfish and a plethora of different coloured seahorses.
MERMAID I
For full details of Mermaid I, please see our India’s Andaman Islands holiday description. Mermaid I offers a series of 9 nights cruises from June to November, visiting Komodo and the western Nusa Tenggara. Cruises depart from, and return to, Benoa Harbour, near Denpasar on Bali.
Cruise Itinerary: Day 1: Board Mermaid I between 1400-1600 in Benoa Harbour. Enjoy dinner and cruise overnight to Moyo Island off northwest Sumbawa. Day 2: Three dives today at Angel Reef, Moyo Island. Cruise to Satonda for macro diving and a night dive. Cruise to Sangeang Volcano, north of Sumbawa. Day 3: Explore more dive sites in the Nusa Tenggara, including the Sangeang Volcano. Head off to Gili Banta if the weather is holding. Day 4: Depending on currents, start the day with diving on Gili Banta, then enter the Komodo National Park. Dive Gili Lawa Laut. In the evening the plan is to dive Pink Beach , an amazingly colourful dive. Day 5: Walk with the Komodo Dragons in the National Park, then cruise to Horseshoe Bay and Cannibal Rock later in the day. Day 6: More dives in the Cannibal Rock area before enjoying the wall dives at Larry’s Yellow Wall and a night dive in Torpedo Alley. Day 7: It is manta day today! Tora Longkoi or Manta Alley is the place to watch them. Day 8: Dive Gili Lawa Laut to enjoy calm blue water and loads of fish. Night dive at Gili Banta followed by cruising overnight to Satonda and Sumbawa. Day 9: This is your chance to see or shoot anything you missed on the way out around Sumbawa and the Moyo Islands before the crew wash off your gear and you enjoy a good dinner. Day 10: Arrive back in Bali and transfer to shore after breakfast at around 0900, having completed up to 28 dives.
Price: from about £1847. Includes: 9 nights cruise on Mermaid I on a twin/share basis with full board, including tea, coffee, soft drinks and drinking water; 8 days diving (28 dives in total, including night dives where the location is suitable); escorted shore excursions where appropriate. Nitrox fills cost €6 each, payable on board. A port/national park fee of €60 (subject to change) is payable on board. Reduction for non-divers. Airport/hotel transfers are not included, but local taxis are inexpensive. Single Occupancy Supplement: 90% of the cruise cost (but you can avoid paying the supplement if you are willing to share a cabin).
SIREN
For full details of Siren, please see our India’s Andaman Islands holiday description. Siren offers a series of 10 nights cruises in Komodo and the western Nusa Tenggara from May to November 2010. Cruises depart from, and return to, Bima on the island of Sumbawa. Local flights are required between Denpasar on Bali and Bima. Cruise Itinerary: Day 1: Fly from Denpasar to Bima. Board Siren at 1500 and settle in to your cabin. There will be a check-out dive in the late afternoon. Day 2: Four dives around Sangean Island. Day 3: Four dives in the Banta Islands region. Day 4: Diving within the Komodo Marine Park, heading overnight to Sangeang Island. Days 5-9: These days will be spent diving in the Komodo Marine Park as well as taking some fabulous shore excursions (including one to see the famous Komodo Dragons). Day 10: Enjoy the final 2 dives of the trip before sailing back to Bima. Day 11: Disembark Siren at 0800 and transfer to Bima for the flight back to Bali.
Price: from about £2222. Includes: 10 nights cruise on Siren on a twin/share basis with full board, plus coffee, tea, fruit juice, soft drinks, fresh fruit and beer; 7 full days of diving (up to 4 dives per day) plus one on the first day and two on the last full day; air or Nitrox fills; dive gear including wetsuit, regulator, BCD and fins; escorted shore excursions where appropriate. A port/national park fee of €65 (subject to change) is payable on board. Reduction for non-divers. Airport/hotel transfers are not included, but local taxis are inexpensive. Single Occupancy Supplement: 80% of the cruise cost (but you can avoid paying the supplement if you are willing to share a cabin).
INDO SIREN
The 40-metre Indo Siren is being built in Sulawesi from ironwood and teak and in the style of a gaft-rigged Phinisi and is due to commence cruises in spring 2011. The Worldwide Dive and Sail team have used valuable lessons from their previous sailing yachts to incorporate features that offer luxurious comfort and safety and are proud to say “built by divers for divers”. Indo Siren can take up to 16 divers in 8 spacious, air-conditioned, luxury cabins which offer a choice of bed configurations. Cabins 1 and 3 have queen-sized beds. Cabins 4 and 5 can be configured as double or twin beds and Cabins 6 and 7 have three single beds, but are only ever allocated to two guests unless requested as triples by families or friends. Cabin 8 is the ‘owner’s cabin’ and has a double bed. The cabin is a little smaller but has the advantage of a separate entrance and is the most stable cabin on the boat. Each of Indo Siren’s cabins has a personal computer, audio visual system and en suite bathrooms. Luxury touches such as hair dryers, individually controlled lighting and air-conditioning, along with a massage service and a laundry service mean that quality is not compromised. There is an expansive leisure deck area for relaxation and an air-conditioned saloon with cocktail bar, large flat screen and computer server supporting the inter-cabin network. The covered outdoor dining area offers super sea views while one enjoys some gourmet dining.
Special services for underwater photographers include individual computers in each cabin along with multiple power outlets. The computer has a large flat screen and is integrated in to the yacht’s network server. There are workstations for the preparation and maintenance of cameras and large rinse tanks used only for cameras and videos. Diving usually takes place from one of Indo Siren’s two powerful zodiacs. Nitrox is included in the holiday price for all nitrox certified divers.
Safety is of paramount importance, so Indo Siren has been designed and constructed to the highest safety standards based on Lloyd’s Standards, the leading international body of maritime safety standards. The crew is specially trained in all aspects of safety, including emergency and evacuation procedures. The yacht is equipped with life rafts, life jackets, fire extinguishers, smoke alarms, emergency long distance radios and satellite phones. Indo Siren will operate a series of 10 nights cruises to Komodo National Park, operating out of Bima on the island of Sumbawa, from April to October, commencing in April 2011.
Price: from about £2222. Includes: 10 nights cruise on Indo Siren on a twin/share basis with full board including non-alcoholic and local alcoholic beverages; 9 days of diving (up to 4 or 5 dives per day, including night dives) and maybe one or more dives on the last day, air or Nitrox fills; escorted shore excursions where appropriate. A port/national park fee of €65 (subject to change) is payable on board. Reduction for non-divers. Airport/hotel transfers are not included, but local taxis are inexpensive. Single Occupancy Supplement: 80% of the cruise cost (but you can avoid paying the supplement if you are willing to share a cabin).
KOMODO DANCER
Komodo Dancer, a member of the famous Peter Hughes’ Dancer Fleet, is a traditionally crafted, two-masted wooden motor sailor, 30 metres long and 9 metres wide, that accommodates a maximum of 14 passengers in 7 staterooms, each with private head and shower. Two Deluxe Staterooms on the Dolphin Deck each have one queen-sized bed beneath a single upper bed. Four Twin Staterooms each have two single bunk beds. The Owner’s Suite on the Lido Deck has one queen-sized bed and picture window views. Each cabin provides a quiet and elegant space for relaxing, reading or sleeping. Towelling robes are provided for your stay on the boat. Clean towels are provided daily and clean sheets are provided mid-week. Complimentary toiletries are placed at the wash basin and each cabin has a built-in hairdryer. Eight crew offer superb service at all times, from morning coffee in your room to taking your tank at the dive platform on your return to the boat or providing hot towels at the end of a night dive.
The dive deck features a water fountain, mask defogging station, weight belt area, a shower, and a supply of fresh towels. Special rinse tanks for cameras are situated on the dive deck. Dive information is displayed on a large board which shows depth and marine life information. Of special interest to underwater photographers is the spacious multi-tiered, carpeted photo-table complete with cleaning materials. A full camera and video rental service is available at daily or weekly rates. The boat has a photo pro on board who will assist you with your photography and also, if you wish, take a customized video of your diving holiday. Komodo Dancer offers Nitrox facilities at an extra charge and a range of courses including PADI Advanced Open Water, IANTD, TDI and PADI Nitrox certification, Rebreather certification and Paul Humann Fish and Creature Identification. A full range of diving equipment is available for rental.
After diving most people head for the sundeck where they can relax (either in or out of the sun) and help themselves to iced drinks and delicious snacks. Freshly baked breads and biscuits show up in the morning and appetizers are served in the afternoon. Beverages and snacks are available at all times in the salon (along with a well-stocked bar). Meals are one of the highlights of the day. Hot breakfasts are cooked to order. Lunch is usually a buffet-style spread and dinner is waiter served. Wine is served with dinner and after dinner drinks are always offered.
Komodo Dancer operates a series of 10 nights cruises throughout the year. For much of the year the boat starts in Benoa Harbour, near Denpasar on Bali and cruises via Komodo to Labuhanbajo on Flores, or vice versa. A one-way flight is required from Labuhanbajo to Denpasar, or vice versa. In April/May and October/November there are some special cruises to the islands of the Alor Archipelago, departing and returning to Maumere on Flores. For the latter cruises, return flights are required between Denpasar and Maumere.
Komodo Cruise Itinerary (Flores to Bali): Day 1: Early morning flight from Denpasar to Labuhanbajo on Flores. Transfer to Komodo Dancer and depart for a check-out dive. Days 2-3: Four dives each day at Sangeang Island searching for fascinating creatures. Days 4-9: Four dives each day within the Komodo National Park. Day10: Three dives at Satonda followed by cruising back to Bali during the afternoon and overnight. Day 11: Early morning arrival at Benoa Harbour, Bali. Transfer to local hotel or to the airport. For those taking the Bali to Flores itinerary, the order is reversed.
Alor Archipelago Cruise Itinerary: Day 1: Early morning flight from Denpasar to Maumere, transfer to Komodo Dancer and depart from Flores Island. A check-out dive is arranged for this first day. Day 2: Cruise towards the small island of Alor, stopping for dives at the small islands of Pantar, Buaya and Ternate. Days 3-8: Throughout these six days the boat cruises between the islands of Pantar and Alor with opportunities to dive around tiny islands and islets as well making a land excursion to Ternate Island, famous for its textile production. Days 9-10: Komodo Dancer commences its return to Flores through the Alor Archipelago, with diving en route. Day 11: Arrive back at Maumere in the morning. The flight to Denpasar is scheduled for the afternoon.
Price: from about £2084. Includes: airport transfers prior to embarkation on Komodo Dancer and following disembarkation; 10 nights cruise on Komodo Dancer on a twin/share basis with full board, including soft drinks, wine, beer and spirits; 9 full days of diving (up to 3 or 4 dives per day, which may include a night dive) plus one dive on the first day. Reductions for divers 65 or over, non-divers and extra weeks. In addition, there is a National Park Fee of about £56 (subject to change) which must be prepaid. Single Occupancy Supplement: 65% of the cruise cost (but you can avoid paying the supplement if you are willing to share a cabin).
FLIGHTS: Prices from about £607 to Denpasar (plus from about £148 return to Bima in connection with Siren cruises, or from about £77 one-way between Denpasar and Labuhanbajo or from about £208 return to Maumere in connection with Komodo Dancer cruises). There are daily flight connections to Denpasar (and onwards to Bima, Labuhanbajo and Maumere).
STOP-OVERS: These are available in Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, depending on flight routing.
COMBINATIONS: As all holidays to Komodo & The Nusa Tenggara start and end in Denpasar, Bali, why not add on a visit to this fascinating island? Alternatively, why not visit extraordinary Wakatobi in southeastern Sulawesi. Talk to us about the possibilities.
Yet another weird and wonderful creature, the Mola Mola, or Sunfish, eyes up Eleanora (Alex Mustard)
