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Nai'a

Island Dancer (Peter Hughes Fleet)

The South Pacific

FIJI

The world’s best shark encounters and soft coral glory

World class shark encounters at Beqa (Doug Perrine)

Coral sands, clear blue seas, islands covered with a lush canopy of thick green vegetation – a land where trees vastly outnumber people – this is Fiji. A rare and treasured find whose intangible magic separates it even from the most beautiful and exciting dive destinations in the world. Here, far from the stresses and strains of everyday life, you will find some of the world’s best diving in a wildly romantic setting. Dazzling white coral sands, magnificent waterfalls and high peaks combined with an impressive collection of extraordinary dive sites makes Fiji a perfect destination for a diving holiday. It may seem that the above-water delights of the islands would be hard to beat, but the underwater world of fish and coral is a diver’s dream come true. Much of the diving in Fiji remains unexplored, so the rewards for those who are prepared to venture further afield are great!

The seas surrounding the islands of Fiji are known world-over for their glorious and colourful soft corals and rich diversity of fish and invertebrates. Dozens of superb reefs rank amongst the finest dive sites in the world. Coral outcrops known as ‘bommies’ rise from the ocean floor or the walls of the reef, mushrooming into fantastic shapes. These in their turn provide yet another substratum on which the soft corals ‘bloom’ – draped over every ledge, filling each crevice with a profusion of vibrant living colour. Bulging brain corals, the fantastic lacy filigrees of fan corals and the flower-like blossoms of soft corals adorn this underwater landscape. Fabulous as the soft corals are, there is much more to diving in Fiji. Most notably, Pacific Harbour at the island of Beqa now offers some really world-class shark diving and also some great wreck diving.

BEQA

Beqa, a small island off the south coast of Viti Levu (the largest island in the Fiji archipelago), is famous for its world class shark diving, described by shark expert Valerie Taylor as “The best, the very best of shark diving”. On the fringes of Beqa Lagooon, Shark Reef Marine Reserve was created to protect the resident shark population for studies that in turn might aid the long-term conservation of sharks elsewhere. For divers who love big fish, imagine a swirling throng of jacks, snappers and groupers, then throw in to the mix up to 8 species of sharks including Bulls, Tigers, Sicklefin Lemons, Silvertips, Grey Reefs, White-tipped Reefs, Black-tipped Reefs and Tawny Nurses! Little wonder that it has also been described as “Unquestionably one of the best shark dives in the world”. A shark dive day at Beqa consists of two shark dives. The first dive takes place on a reef ledge next to the drop off into the abyss of the Beqa Passage. At 30 metres, the main attraction is the presence of enormous and bulky Bull Sharks. The Bull Sharks live off the wall of Shark Reef Marine Reserve, in the deep waters of the passage. It is believed that they may have territories down in the depths, with individuals whose territories are closest to the reserve being the most frequent visitors to The Arena. After around 17 minutes here it is time to head to the shallows for the second part of the shark dive at The Den, where some of the smaller shark species are to be found. An hour-long surface interval allows divers to relax and enjoy refreshing tropical fruits, tea or coffee before heading out to the second shark dive, which takes place on a reef slope at about 16 metres, known as The Take Out. Tawny Nurse Sharks come in to feed first, but give way to the Bulls when they arrive (well, wouldn’t you?!). Silvertip Sharks, Sicklefin Lemon Sharks and Grey Reef Sharks feed when the Bulls allow, but if a Tiger Shark turns up then even the Bulls give way! A bottom time of around 35 minutes signals the end of the dive before a safety stop and the return to the boat. And all this before lunch!

The Bull Sharks in the area total around 50 individuals and have been observed feeding in mixed sex groups of between 10-50 animals. The on-going database tracks all the individuals (which have names) and tries to identify if there is a pattern to their movements. Meet the large female, Stumpy, or her even bigger ‘friend’ ‘Big Mamma’, who is a whopping 3 metres in length, or some of the lads; ‘Blackbeard’, a large male with a fishhook caught in the right corner of his mouth, and ‘Chopper’, who has probably escaped a shark-finning vessel as his tail fin has been chopped clean off! Of all shark species the Silvertip is surely the most elegant. The graceful lines and exquisite markings make them unmistakable. There are around seven individuals who are regular visitors. Their favourite trick is coming straight toward you, then turning at the last second! The biggest animals in the Shark Reef Marine Reserve are the Tiger Sharks, who put in an appearance around once a month. It is known that they have incredibly large territories, sometimes trans-oceanic. But with luck you will meet ‘Scarface’. At 4 metres she is a massive fish with a scar on the left-hand side of her face and is the most regular Tiger Shark to visit. All the other sharks give way to ‘Scarface’! Sicklefin Lemon Sharks are not regular visitors and usually disappear from December to January but the two individuals who make appearances are the 3 metre ‘Whitetail’ and the smaller ‘Minnie’. All the Tawny Nurse Sharks who visit are males. They have become so bold that they have even been observed keeping the Bulls away from the bait. They disappear during the months of December and January. White-tipped Reef Sharks are too numerous to count. On any given day there will be 10-15 individuals in the reserve. Black-tipped Reef Sharks inhabit the reef flats on top of Shark Reef Marine Reserve. Between 15-20 animals race around the area. Grey Reef Sharks are found on every dive. The population numbers over 50, but they are not seen all at one time, but more often in groups of 15-20. They are in the Reserve year-round and found at all depths.

But there are more big fish around at Beqa apart from the sharks. A ‘young’ Napoleon Wrasse weighs in at 100 kgs. He enjoys hovering in diver’s bubbles. A Giant Grouper, ‘Ratu Rua’, enjoys feeding here, as does a Java Moray. Javas are the largest of the moray species and this photogenic female can be found on the shallow slopes of the reserve.

Beqa Lagoon has been called ‘The Coral Capital of the World’ (there can be few places that can compete with it for soft coral beauty), but it also a great place for wrecks. Carpet Cove features not only soft coral, but also the wreck of a fishing vessel sunk in 30 metres of water in 1996. The wreck is now clothed in soft corals, with a swirl of Chevron Barracudas and trevallies curling above or round the wreck. Caesar’s Rock, named after a local village chief, is a cluster of 5 current-swept pinnacles rising from 30 metres to 5 metres below the surface. When the current runs the soft corals burst into bloom and giant sea fans comb the water with their tentacles for food. Lionfish lurk in the shadows of the sea fans. Tasu II is a decommissioned longline fishing vessel sunk on the sandy bottom at Seven Sisters. At 30 metres long from bow to stern, she lies upright on her keel next to the coral pinnacles that make up the seven sisters. Rarely anything other than fairly calm, the conditions allow for some good bottom time to take photographs. Search around and you will find wriggly little pipefish making their way across the deck or up the sides of the ship. Resting at 32 metres, Rusi’s Pinnacle has the largest wreck in Beqa Lagoon. Here, a double-decked fishing vessel was scuttled in 2000 and is now smothered in soft coral. Divers can search for Giant Frogfish well camouflaged amongst the encrusting sponges. Just a short fin away is the solitary pinnacle that gives its name to the dive site and which rises to 5 metres from the surface. What better way to spend your safety stop than enjoying the five different species of anemonefish each with their different host anemone?

NORTHERN & EASTERN VITI LEVU

Nai’a and Fiji Aggressor II explore the fabulous dive sites off northern and eastern Viti Levu, many of which those pioneers of Fiji diving on Nai’a discovered themselves! There can be little doubt that by travelling that little bit further on a liveaboard boat you will be well rewarded with visits to dive sites that very few divers have been privileged to explore.

Discovered by the crew of Nai’a during a private charter flight to search out undiscovered dive sites, E-6 is a seamount rising from 1,000 metres in the centre of the narrowest part of Bligh Water, where it intercepts a flow of nutrients funnelled between the two large islands of Viti Levu and Vanua Levu. Pelagics are usually found on the two sides of the pinnacle that are flushed with current , while delicate soft corals and seafans decorate the protected lee side where Nai’a moors. Day dives here feature schooling barracudas, trevallys, surgeonfish, eagle rays and occasional hammerheads. Smaller fish include anthias, fusiliers and Leaf Scorpionfish. At night giant cuttlefish, the amazing flashlightfish, arrowhead crabs and cowries can be found here. 

A seamount similar to E-6, though smaller, is located four miles away at Mount Mutiny. Named in honour of Captain Bligh who passed nearby shortly after the mutiny on the Bounty, and also in honour of the Nai’a passengers who threatened mutiny if they were not allowed to dive here again and again and again, Mount Mutiny has a spectacular Rainbow Wall of unusual thin-stalked Siphonogorgia soft coral in a spectrum of colours which blankets the south flank of Mount Mutiny for a distance of 200 metres between 20-40 metres deep. This has to be one of the most beautiful soft coral dives in the world!

At Nigali Passage, near the island of Gau, a narrow cut in the surrounding barrier reef concentrates pelagics from miles around. Nigali is home to a population of between 8 and 25 female Grey Reef Sharks, depending on the season. Huge schools of trevally and three age-segregated schools of barracudas are found here. Unusually at this site, because of the unique configuration of the channel, the incoming current does not coincide with the rising tide. With over many years of experience of diving Nigali and with a computer database, the captain of Nai’a has become expert at identifying the four hour window of opportunity to dive here. Nai’a’s skiff is able to drop divers well up-current and pick them up again half a mile away after having drifted through the channel. Nai’a initiated a small-scale shark feed in Nigali Passage as a means of drawing the residents closer to photographers. The crew are extremely careful to organize the shark feed so as to minimize the impact on the resident population of female Grey Reef Sharks, but it does draw curious sharks near enough to the circle of divers for the photographers to capture full-frame photographs and also for everyone to get a close-up view of these elegant and sleek predators.

It was the diving at Grand Central Station that first drew Cousteau to Fiji! On an incoming current divers drop into the clear blue water and swim along a sheer wall . On the plateau above the wall giant schools of Bigeye Trevally, scad and barracudas are watched over by several Grey Reef Sharks. White-tip Reef Sharks lie napping in preparation for their night-time feeding jaunts. From here divers let the current carry them deeper into the channel where a line of bommies rise nearly to the surface. Two of these bommies are connected by a huge arch. The sides and tops of the bommies are covered in colour: gorgonians, black coral, soft corals in wonderful colours and, of course, a host of reef fish. Further on, divers can drift into Kansas, a small bommie covered in soft coral that looks just like wheat fields swaying in the wind. Two days diving are recommended to fully explore the underwater marvels here!

LAGOON RESORT & BEQA ADVENTURE DIVERS, BEQA

The Lagoon Resort in Pacific Harbour on the small island of Beqa was originally built as a casino in 1988, but today is a small, relaxed and friendly resort set in 3 acres of landscaped grounds on the banks of the Qara-ni-Qio River, which leads out into Beqa Lagoon. The resort has just 21 rooms, all of which have views of the river or the lagoon. All rooms are prettily furnished with marble bathrooms, air-conditioning, ceiling fans, telephone, satellite TV, refrigerators and tea and coffee making machines. Standard Rooms have two queen-sized beds and the Deluxe Rooms have a king-sized and a single bed. There is a bar and restaurant within the grounds and a variety of tours and trips can be arranged, including local charter boats for big game fishing, snorkelling and island cruises. Surfing, wind surfing, white water rafting and horse riding are available, and there is a golf course next door to the resort.

Beqa Adventure Divers are based at the resort. A small and personal PADI dive centre, there are two dive boats (one taking up to 14 divers, the other up to 6 divers), storage lockers and hot showers. Towels, drinks and snacks are provided on the boats. The dive boats leave for 1-tank dives every morning and afternoon. Shark diving is available on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Coral and wreck diving is done on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays.

Stays can be of any length. Prices given below relate to a stay of 7 nights.

Price: from about £777 for 7 nights. Includes: airport transfers by road and boat (from Nadi or Suva); 7 nights full board accommodation (breakfast, lunch and dinner) on a twin/share basis in a Standard Room at Lagoon Resort; 2 boat dives daily, dive guide. A Shark Reef Marine Reserve levy of FJ$20, about £7, per diving day (subject to change) is payable locally. There is currently a fuel surcharge of FJ$5 (about £1.65) per dive trip, payable locally. Reduction for non-divers.

Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £214 for 7 nights.

NAI’A

Designed specifically for keen divers and underwater photographers, the elegant and luxurious MV Nai’a (Hawaiian for ‘dolphin’), now widely considered one of the world’s top liveaboards, explores the remote reefs north and east of Viti Levu. In calm seas Nai’a also visits the most spectacular soft coral sites of Namena island south of Vanua Levu. The 33-metre luxury Nai’a is designed to carry up to 18 guests in 9 spacious, air-conditioned, twin-berth staterooms, all with en-suite bathrooms. The dive deck has bench seating and plenty of storage space for gear as well as hangers for wetsuits. Once you have set up your gear on arrival, with the exception of mask, fins, snorkel and cameras, the crew will handle and manage your gear for the rest of the cruise. Underwater photographers are particularly well catered for on board Nai’a. An enclosed, dedicated camera room with tiered tables for the storage, servicing and recharging (both 110V/220V) of camera equipment is forward of the dive deck. Two large fresh-water tanks are available for camera/video gear. A multi-system Sony monitor is available in the main salon for videographers.

The crew of Nai’a are well-known for their expertise in diving management. Divers can usually expect four guided dives daily (including night diving) with two custom-built skiffs to drop and pick up divers at exactly the right place. Diving is truly ‘unlimited’ if you wish. Computers are encouraged as the Nai’a diving protocol is tailored to the needs of the more experienced diver. Nitrox is available.

Nai’a usually operates out of Lautoka wharf near Nadi. Cruises are of 7 or 10 nights duration and depart through most of the year. Occasionally cruises end in Suva.

Tonga Humpback Whale Expeditions: In July Nai’a sets sail for Tonga in a unique quest to discover and follow Humpback Whales. The main focus of the trips is to swim and snorkel with the Humpbacks at every available opportunity, and with any other cetaceans, such as dolphins, that are encountered. It is envisaged that there will also be an average of at least one conventional dive per day. The time spent travelling will be either at night or moving with the whales. All cruises begin and end in Tonga.

Price: from about £1950 for a 7 nights cruise; from about £2786 for a 10 nights cruise; from about £3034 for a 10 nights Tonga cruise. Includes: airport transfers; 7 or 10 nights cruise on Nai’a on a twin/share basis with full board, including non-alcoholic drinks and house wine with dinner; more than 6 or 9 days diving (an average of 4 guided dives daily, including night dives, with ‘unlimited’ dives in between), or in Tonga 9 days swimming and snorkeling with the whales as well as an average of at least one conventional guided dive per day. Nitrox supplement: about £93 for 7 nights cruises; about £130 for 10 nights cruises. Reductions for returning clients, non-divers and extra cruises. Please note: a few cruises with special guest tutors have a price supplement. A fuel surcharge of US$14 per night (subject to change) is not included in the package price and will be collected on board.

Single Occupancy Supplement: 50% of the cruise cost (but you can avoid paying the supplement if you are willing to share a cabin).

ISLAND DANCER

The Island Dancer is a very comfortable liveaboard that carries 10 passengers in five staterooms. Each of the four Deluxe Staterooms has one large lower bed and an upper single bed, private head and shower and air conditioning with individual climate controls. The Owner’s Stateroom has one double bed, private head and shower and air conditioning with individual climate controls. Six crew provide superb service throughout the cruise and make sure your diving holiday runs smoothly. Between dives guests can relax on the sundeck (either in or out of the shade) or try the amazing hot tub! The salon has an excellent collection of books, videos and music to enjoy.

The dive deck covers the aft third of the main deck. Large gear lockers double as seats and line the rails and centre. Two tanks are mounted at the back of each locker, so it is easy to don your equipment at your seat or ask for the tank to be taken to the dive platform. Dive information is displayed on a large board which shows depth and marine life information. A large three-tiered camera table has plenty of space for camera assembly or preparation and separate rinse tanks are kept for cameras and videos. The photography department provides rental cameras and accessories as well as the services of the photo pro if you require a model or expert advice. A range of PADI and NAUI speciality courses are offered on Island Dancer including Nitrox training and facilities. A full range of diving equipment is available for rental by pre-arrangement.

For after the dive there is a freshwater shower and clean towels awaiting, as well as the chef’s freshly prepared snacks to appease the after-dive hunger pangs! Delicious barbecues, American-style and local dishes are served; breads, biscuits and baked snacks come strait from the oven. Most meals are served buffet-style.

Island Dancer operates from Suva on the island of Viti Levu for 7 or 10 nights cruises throughout the year.

Price: from about £1736 for a 7 nights cruise; from about £2481 for a 10 nights cruise. Includes: airport transfers (from Suva); 7 or 10 nights cruise on Island Dancer on a twin/share basis with full board (except dinner on the last night), including non-alcoholic and alcoholic beverages; 5 or 8 full days of diving (up to 4 or 5 dives per day, including night dives) plus one or two dives on the last day. Reductions for divers 65 or over, non-divers and extra cruises. In addition, a cruising tax of about £93 (7 nights cruise) or about £130 (10 nights cruise) and a Kabulau’s Namena Barrier Reef Park Fee of about £9 (subject to change) must be prepaid. Dinner on the last night is not included, but guests will be provided with guidance about good local restaurants.

Single Occupancy Supplement: 65% of the cruise cost (but you can avoid paying the supplement if you are willing to share a cabin).

FIJI AGGRESSOR II

New to the fleet in September 2002, the Fiji Aggressor II is a 106-foot, 18-passenger catamaran built and powered for comfort, safety and stability. With her diesel-powered engine she cruises at 18 knots and has 110-volt power on board. The Fiji Aggressor II has a wide 30-foot beam, which ensures stability and offers very spacious accommodation. Nine luxurious Deluxe Staterooms are located on the main level. Each features a queen-sized bed with single bed above, carpeted flooring, a large window, individual climate control, vanity unit and private head and shower.

Travelling toward the stern of the Fiji Aggressor II, divers enter the large dive deck. This is the area where divers suit up and prepare their gear. Each diver has his own personal dive station complete with seat and locker. A dive briefing area, camera table with low-pressure air hoses, camera rinse tank and head are all part of the roomy dive deck.

Dive information is displayed on a large board which shows depth and marine life information. A large three-tiered camera table has plenty of space for camera assembly or preparation and separate rinse tanks are kept for cameras and videos. The photography department provides rental cameras and accessories as well as the services of the photo pro if you require a model or expert advice. A range of PADI and NAUI speciality courses are offered on Fiji Aggressor II including Nitrox training and facilities. A full range of diving equipment is available for rental by pre-arrangement.

All dives are made from the high-speed, jet-driven skiff. The 30-foot skiff accommodates all divers. Each diver has a tank rack and seat on the skiff. Tanks are filled in place on the skiff with either air or Nitrox, via tank whips from the compressor banks on the mother ship. Divers board the skiff at deck level and then the skiff is lowered into the water by a hydraulic lift. After the dive the skiff cruises into the lift and returns to deck level where divers safely disembark. There are two freshwater showers on the dive deck.

For after the dive there is a freshwater shower and clean towels awaiting, as well as the chef’s freshly prepared snacks to appease the after-dive hunger pangs! Delicious barbecues, American-style and local dishes are served; breads, biscuits and baked snacks come strait from the oven. Most meals are served buffet-style.

A few steps up from the dive deck is the salon, dining area and indoor/outdoor wet bar. The salon is an attractively furnished area designed for relaxation. The entertainment centre features a large screen TV, VCR with all video camera capabilities, CD player and a well-stocked library of books and magazines, videos, compact discs and slides. A full-service indoor/outdoor bar is open 24 hours a day. The bar, a popular gathering place, is constructed of solid teak and has retractable windows for a fresh open air feeling. Three large dining tables are also part of this huge room. Breakfast and dinner are eaten indoors with lunch usually served alfresco at the bar. Try a soothing post-dive soak in the hot tub, located on the open deck near the bar. The third level features a ‘moon deck’, a 30-foot wide partially covered deck. Here divers may relax in the sun on a chaise longue, nap in a hammock or cool off with a beverage from the wet bar.

The Fiji Aggressor II is a handicapped-accessible live-aboard, complete with HSA certified instructors and dive buddies, a specially-designed hydraulic wheelchair elevator and shower stalls with seats. Dive lockers, padded seats, camera tables, tank racks, low gunwales and retractable ladders all help assure everyone's carefree diving.

Fiji Aggressor II operates from Suva on the island of Viti Levu for 7 nights cruises, departing every Saturday throughout the year.

Price: from about £1674. Includes: airport transfers (from Suva); 7 nights cruise on Fiji Aggressor II on a twin/share basis with full board (except dinner on the last night), including non-alcoholic and alcoholic beverages; 5 full days of diving (up to 4 or 5 dives per day, including night dives) plus one or two dives on the last day. Reductions for divers 65 or over, non-divers and extra weeks. A cruising tax of US$150 and a Kabulau’s Namena Barrier Reef park fee of US$15 (subject to change) are not included in the package price and will be collected on board. Dinner on the last night is not included, but guests will be provided with guidance about good local restaurants.

Single Occupancy Supplement: 50% of the cruise cost (but you can avoid paying the supplement if you are willing to share a cabin).

FLIGHTS: Prices from about £994 to Nadi (plus from about £102 if travelling onwards to Suva, or from about £142 if travelling onwards to Taveuni). There are daily flight connections to Nadi (less frequent connections to Tonga). You may have to overnight en route in Nadi and/or elsewhere, depending on cruise dates and air routing.

STOP-OVERS: These are available in Los Angeles, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur or Sydney depending on flight routing.

COMBINATIONS: Combining a liveaboard trip in Fiji with some time at Beqa for its fantastic shark diving makes a lot of sense, as does a relaxing stay in a fine resort on Taveuni island with the enjoyable diving of the Somosomo Strait on the doorstep. It is also straightforward to combine a diving holiday in Fiji with a visit to Vanuatu (for the extraordinary President Coolidge wreck), the Solomons or Papua New Guinea. Alternatively, for ‘The Ultimate Shark Trip’, you could combine the awesome Great White Sharks of Guadalupe Island, off northern Baja California, with Beqa’s extraordinary shark encounters! Talk to us about the possibilities.

Gorgeous reefscapes (Doug Perrine)