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Fantastic light 'showers' at St Johns (Martin Edge)

Red Sea reefscape by Martin Edge

Red Sea

THE SOUTHERN RED SEA AND SUDAN

Classic Wrecks and Classic Sharks in the Red Sea’s Deep South

White-tip Reef Shark. (Royal Evolution - Simon Rogerson)

First explored by Hans and Lotte Hass in the 1950s and then by Jacques Cousteau in his famous boat, Calypso, the Red Sea is a classic destination for all divers. Rich with coral, laden with fascinating wrecks, populated by an incredibly diverse fish population including the ‘big boys’ of the sea, Manta Rays and sharks, the deep south of Red Sea offers some of the best diving in the world.

Leave behind the day boats and over-dived reefs as you head south through Egypt’s finest dive sites and enter the world of the hammerhead and the Manta Ray. Explore some fantastic wrecks, visit Jacques Cousteau’s ‘underwater world’ and float through grottoes and around coral covered pinnacles. Fish life is here in profusion and you will enjoy your re-union with your old friends: batfish, sweetlips, Napolean Wrasse, lionfish, anthias, glassfish, triggerfish, cuttlefish, anemmonefish, not to mention rays and sharks. Maybe the amazing and beautiful Oceanic White-tip Shark may just glide by in search of food … Sudan has much for the diver to enjoy

South of Marsa Alam is Fury Shoal, an area of which is famous for its coral pinnacles and swim-throughs with some healthy, large and colourful coral heads. Here you will see some classic images with colourful anthias darting over the corals and inquisitive pufferfish peeping round the corals. St John’s Reef lies about 138 nautical miles north of the Sudanese border and is collection of small reefs, coral pinnacles and drop offs where some swift drift diving offers encounters with sharks, tuna and jacks.

Just 20 nautical miles Sudan is Sanganeb Reef consisting of a north and a south plateau. The North Plateau is famous for the British-built lighthouse that marks its location as well as the reef wall with its visiting sharks, jacks and barracuda. At the end of the plateau those ‘bison of the sea’, the noisy Bumphead Parrotfish may be encountered and maybe, in the deep waters, a school of scalloped hammerheads may be found. At the surface there are also interesting encounters to be had as a pod of dolphins enjoys a visit to the boat and a chance to snorkel with some ‘divers’. The South Plateau has superb soft and hard corals and is a good place to see Grey Reef Sharks. The shark list can be very good here and can include Scalloped Hammerheads, Silky and the occasional Oceanic White-tip as well as Manta Rays.

It is at Sha’ab Rumi that Jacques Cousteau conducted his famous Conshelf II Underwater Living experiments, where five men spent more than a month underwater to study the effects of long-term underwater stays. The remains of the 1963 expedition, called Precontinent II, are still on the site and it is possible to dive the Cousteau Conshelf and also see the remains of the shark cages that were used.

Hans Hass named the wreck of the Umbria as one of the world’s finest wrecks and most wreck-enthusiasts will be in agreement. In World War II the Red Sea was an important route linking Europe to the British colonies such as India. On the day Italy declared war on Britain the Umbria was just 20 miles from Port Sudan and heading for the Italian colony of Eritrea. The Umbria’s crew scuttled the boat when the captain heard that Italy had entered the war, denying the Allies her cargo of bombs and guns. The 153m long wreck now lies on the sea bed, listing at a 60 degree angle; its precious cargo is still onboard - 360,000 aircraft bombs weighing 5,510 tonnes!

The Blue Belt (or Toyota Wreck) lies upside down on a slope, and contains a cargo of cars, trucks, tractors and spare parts, in depths of 10-36 metres. It is possible to enter the wreck through a gap in the hull and work upwards, but the coral-encrusted remains of the cars, tyres, lights, steering wheels and other spare parts are perhaps more fascinating.

The small island of Dahret Abid, 20 miles north of Eritrea and around 30 miles east of the Sudanese shoreline lies at the point where a reef wall slopes down to the watery depths, so if the current permits, the first part of the dive will usually be spent hanging in the blue keeping a look out for the school of Scalloped Hammerheads that is often hanging around the area. At around 30 metres is a small collapsed balcony where many schooling reef fish can be found. The wall here has black coral and some highly photogenic Long-fin Batfish.

The Suakin group of islands in Sudan are scattered over a vast area. Beneath the waves coral heads grow from the reef and reach towards the surface. Many of these coral heads, known as ‘habilis’, are just a couple of metres below the surface and attract an marine life in vast quantity. It is these habilis and tiny islands which cause the fast flow of water and attract huge numbers of fish. The southern Red Sea has always been a magnet for divers seeking shark encounters and sharks are here to be seen. There are well-recorded encounters of elusive Great Hammerheads, elegant Oceanic White-tips, sleek silkies, huge tigers and other ‘wish-list’ sharks, though there is little doubt that there has been a steep decline in the shark population worldwide and the southern Red Sea sharks have suffered at the hands of man in the same way.

Add to this a variety of swim-throughs, beautiful coral gardens, shallow lagoons and the habilis in combination with the almost-ever-present current and it is easy to see why all the reef fish are here: Great Barracudas, Black-fin Barracudas, Napolean Wrasse, Bumphead Parrotfish, triggerfish, Spotted Sweetlips, fusiliers, surgeonfish, and anthias in profusion. At any time it is worth gazing around on these dives, not just to look for the shark approaches, but to see the silhouettes of cruising Manta Rays that seem to want to seek out divers and turtles resting on the reef or nipping up for a quick slurp of air.

A minimum diving qualification of PADI Advanced (or equivalent) and a minimum of 50 logged dives are a pre-requisition for joinng Royal Evolution cruises.

ROYAL EVOLUTION

The arrival of Royal Evolution brought luxury-grade liveaboard diving to the Southern Red Sea and Sudan! With the latest safety and navigation equipment and built for long-distance cruising Royal Evolution has already established an enviable reputation for catering for diving enthusiasts and underwater photographers who not only want first-class diving and photographic facilities but also a level of service, safety and creature comforts which are second to none.

The 39 metre Royal Evolution carries a maximum of 24 passengers in 12 en-suite, air conditioned cabins each with a sound system, small ‘bar’ fridge, DVD player, TV, Marine satellite receiver, which allows guests to connect to international news and events, and safe. Two main deck cabins have a queen size bed and two have twin beds which are ‘disabled-friendly’ . The main deck cabins have superb picture windows through which one has lovely sea views. Eight cabins on the lower deck have two twin beds side by side. The crew offer superb service at all times and pride themselves on working towards making sure your diving holiday is the best you have ever had.

The dive deck features air and nitrox filling stations along with storage facilities for each diver and crew member. There is a camera station for the storage of underwater photographic and video equipment complete with two air guns for drying. There are two hand held showers, and two fresh-water rinse tanks for diving gear as well as hanging racks for wetsuits.

The shaded upper Sun Deck has plenty of outdoor sofas, chairs and sun-loungers for relaxing after the dive. Soaking in the Hot Tub/Jacuzzi is a great way to get warm if you have the post-dive shivers! When diving is over for the day, why not enjoy a drink at the bar? The fully air conditioned dining area on the main deck has seating for all 24 guests at individual tables. Also on the main deck is a bar and lounge area with comfortable seating for all guests. There are coffee tables and light tables along with a sound system, TV/VCR system which is connected to a home theatre audio system and a marine satellite receiver. There is a DVD and video library along with a selection of books and magazines for those relaxed moments.

Royal Evolution sails from Port Ghaleb, Marsa Alam for 13 nights cruises.

Two itineraries are offered on Royal Evolution. There is a Sudan itinerary and a Sudan Deep South itinerary, which includes the Suakin group of islands. Please contact our office for details of sailing schedules.

FLIGHTS

7 nights cruise: Saturday afternoon departure on Egyptair from London (Heathrow), arriving at Cairo in the evening. Late evening onward flight to Marsa Alam. Morning return flight to Cairo on Saturday, connecting with Egyptair morning flight to London, arriving at London (Heathrow) in the early afternoon. 9 nights cruise: As 7 nights cruise, but for Wednesday night departures you leave London on Wednesday afternoon and return to London on Friday, while for Saturday night departures you leave London on Saturday afternoon and return to London on Monday.

Royal Evolution. (Royal Evolution)