The Caribbean
BONAIRE
Diver's paradise in the southern Caribbean
Season: Year-round diving
Visibility: 20-35 metres
Water Temperature: 26-30°C
Stove-pipe sponges make excellent subjects for the photographer. (Martin Edge)
Bonaire’s vehicle licence plates say it all: ‘Diver’s Paradise’ they proclaim! Its spectacular fringing reef of gloriously healthy coral teeming with prolific marine life, including a variety of most unusual, but easily discovered, marine creatures, makes Bonaire a prime diving destination. Some of the richest diving in the Caribbean, excellent weather, clear and warm waters, superb accommodation and food – it is easy to see why Bonaire has a reputation for excellence amongst well-travelled divers.
Just 50 miles north of Venezuela, 21 mile long Bonaire, together with the its uninhabited sister islet of Kleine Bonaire, is part of the Netherlands Antilles, a self-governing part of the Netherlands. Bonaire is seriously committed to preserving its marine heritage by making virtually the entire diving area a protected marine park with stringent rules for reef conservation. Animals that have been hunted to extinction on some other islands have been protected here for many years. There are dives sites that can only be reached by boat, but a great feature of Bonaire is that many of the best sites are accessible as shore dives, some starting only a few metres from the shoreline.
This fascinating, small, crescent-shaped island is quite different from most others in the Caribbean. Many of the visitors come to Bonaire to dive or to observe the wildlife. There are over 150 species of birds found among the inland lakes and lagoons and along the shoreline. The whole island and its surrounding water to a depth of 61 metres is a protected marine park where nothing may be removed or disturbed, and of course spearfishing has been banned for years. All boats use moorings to protect the coral. The processes of nature created this fascinating underwater world, but it is Bonaire’s serious commitment to conservation and the preservation of its marine life that allows it to remain special.
Several hundred marine species are found in the waters of Bonaire. Giant Caribbean anemones, ancient brain corals, the stinging fire coral and the beautiful and precious black coral grow in profusion. The constant temptation presented by angelfish, Frogfish, Tiger Groupers, butterflyfish and, if one is fortunate, even an elegant but shy seahorse clinging with its tail to a gorgonian makes it difficult for the fish watcher to know which way to turn. The sheer variety of invertebrates invites the diver to stop and spend some time in quiet study of the reef.
Bonaire is an excellent choice for the diver who wishes to take the family along on holiday. World class snorkeling on the reefs and excellent accommodation (including a very well organised children’s activity club) will mean the whole family can enjoy a Caribbean holiday to remember!
Because of the variety of wildlife and the almost perfect conditions, Bonaire is an ideal choice for the marine photographer. Some say that Bonaire is probably the most prolific destination in the world for fish and macro photography and many dive sites have truly wonderful populations of fish and invertebrates which can be studied in just a few metres of water.
For photography enthusiasts, sheltered pool-like Bari Reef, just in front of Sand Dollar, will soon become an underwater studio. Peacock Flounders, parrotfish, Creole Wrasse and tiny damselfish and chromis patrol the reef. Frogfish and octopus are familiar visitors too. Elkhorn, fire and brain corals are found in the shallows and the slope of the reef holds star corals, purple sponges and azure vase sponges. Deeper still are plate corals and barrel sponges, and the reef ends at a sandy bottom which holds a colony of Garden Eels. At night snake eels and Spotted Morays search for food and harmless but large (up to 2.5 metres long!) Tarpon swoop into the beams of divers’ lights to snatch a meal of fish. Bari Reef is a splendid dive site for beginners, for those who need a little easy practice to regain their diving skills after an interval or for those who love to study reef life, simply watching and leaning about incredible underwater creatures. Find a sea anemone and wait quietly before placing your fingers gently close-by. A kind little cleaner shrimp is likely to pop out and give you a personal manicure!
The most famous dive on Bonaire is, without doubt, Town Pier in the centre of the waterfront at the island’s capital, Kralendijk. This amazing species-rich site makes an excellent dive during the day as the sunlight filters through the water illuminating the vibrant orange coral and the purple and yellow tube sponges that encrust the pillars of the pier. French and Queen Angelfish glide through the water, and both the delightfully elegant Spotted Drum and schools of grunts make this special place their home. At night, when the orange cup corals come into luxuriant bloom, tiny creatures emerge from their hiding places to search for food. Shy Longsnout Seahorses sway gently to and fro, whilst Trumpetfish try to persuade the diver that they are part of the pier’s superstructure. The slender white tentacles of the anemones reach out into the water and the occasional moray eel and sometimes Tarpon, attracted by the divers’ lights, are drawn here in the hopes of a meal.
Aptly named Something Special begins with a steep wall that falls to 24 metres. The wall, encrusted with sponge and coral is home to a large population of scorpionfish – masters of camouflage, they appear to be extensions of algae-covered rock as they rest motionless. Mating groups of beautiful Blue-spotted Cornetfish, some up to 2 metres in length, can occasionally be spotted in the deeper waters and individuals can sometimes be seen cruising above the sandy ocean bed. In the sandy bottom of the reef a delightful colony of Garden Eels peep out of their burrows, turning their heads into the prevailing current to catch passing plankton.
One of the most popular dives is the beautiful Forest, named for the luxuriant growth of black coral colonies. Located on the south side of Klein Bonaire, the mooring is in about seven metres of water on the edge of a narrow shelf. The shallow zone has much hard coral and abundant sea fans and gorgonians. The drop-off is a series of buttresses and gullies, some of which are sand-filled. At 15-20 metres there are many spectacular large elephant ear sponges. Divers should remember to bring dive lights, for within the many tube sponges dwell a superb array of splendid little fish. Do not be surprised at the sight of a diver ‘standing on his head’ with a light aimed down a tube sponge! The uncommon Marbled Grouper can be found here along with snappers and filefish.
Washington-Slagbaai National Park occupies much of the northern part of the island, with Mount Brandaris rising high above the sea. The secluded beaches are particularly stunning here, with caves (some still bearing ancient Amerindian inscriptions) and cliffs still waiting to be explored. Many of these beaches provide excellent shore dives and snorkeling opportunities. Wonderful panoramic views reward those willing to hike for short distances and the wild and rugged windward seashore is a delight to explore. Natural freshwater springs attract a host of superb tropical birds, lizards and iguanas. 4000 pairs of tall, slender, pink Greater Flamingos breed in Bonaire and some can always be found at the shallow lakes in the park. The south of the island, which is barely above sea level, is dotted with lagoons and mangroves and covered with aloes, cacti and low, maquis-like shrubs. Old slave huts are a stark reminder of the dreadful days when the salt-working slaves were forced to work long hours in the blazing sun and sleep in hot, cramped conditions. Mangroves thrive in the east of the island at Lac Bay, where those interested in seeing something different can snorkel in the shallows in search of unusual fish and stingless jellyfish. The capital, Kralendijk, can be strolled through in about 15 minutes.
CAPTAIN DON’S HABITAT
Stretching across half a mile of coral bluff and overlooking the beautiful Caribbean Sea, Captain Don’s offers divers a variety of accommodations in a very friendly, relaxed atmosphere. This is a real diver’s haunt as most of the guests are divers or their non-diving family members. For sunbathing and swimming enjoy the small private beach with its lagoon or the elegant swimming pool. Sip one of Captain Don’s famous ‘Green Flash’ cocktails and enjoy the glorious oranges and reds of the setting sun in the Deco Stop Bar, a great place to meet new friends or catch up with old ones. For breakfast, lunch or dinner, Rum Runners, the casual seaside restaurant offers a selection of moderately priced food. Evenings are fun times at Captain Don’s with weekly Tex-Mex nights, local and imported live entertainment, Rum Punch Parties and great barbecue nights. For those lucky enough to be there over New Year, nothing can beat the firework display – the loudest and most spectacular we’ve ever seen! Once a week you can be entertained by the founder and ‘Great Man’ of Bonaire diving himself: Captain Don. Captain Don guarantees that 85% of his stories are true (but doesn’t tell you which bits those are!) and treats visitors to an entertaining ‘lecture’! The staff of Captain Don’s are pleased to arrange island sightseeing, horseback riding, windsurfing, sailing, bicycling and deep sea fishing, but if all you want to do after diving is to relax on a chaise-longue and listen to the rustle of the palm trees then that’s fine too. ‘Habitat’ maintain that they have mastered the art of congenial informality!
Villa Ocean View Rooms: These are mostly situated upstairs in the ocean-front villas. They comprise one air-conditioned bedroom with two single beds or one queen-sized bed and en-suite bathroom. Most rooms have a balcony.
Deluxe Ocean View Rooms: These delightful rooms are situated behind the swimming pool, with views of the ocean beyond. They are close to the dive centre, bar and restaurant. Accommodation comprises one bedroom with two queen-sized beds, complete with en-suite bathroom, coffee-maker, a small refrigerator, air-conditioning and Wi-Fi connection. Each room has an attractive balcony or terrace with rattan furniture. Rooms are either at ground level or on the first floor. With two adults, up to two children under 12 years of age can be accepted in these rooms without any additional room charge.
Villa Studios: These are situated on the ground floor of the ocean-front villas and comprise a living area/bedroom with a queen-sized bed, a small kitchen and a shower room. They have a terrace and are air-conditioned.
Villa Suites: Situated in the ocean front villas, these more spacious air-conditioned suites comprise a living area, a separate bedroom with 2 single beds (which can be pushed together to form a king-sized bed), a small kitchen and shower room.
Two-bedroom Habitat Bungalows and Flamboyant Apartments: The 16 white-washed bungalows are situated amongst well-tended gardens a short walk from the dive centre, restaurant and bar. Accommodation comprises 2 air-conditioned bedrooms, one with 2 single beds and one bedroom with a double bed, and two bathrooms. Bungalows also have a living area (which is air-conditioned), a kitchen fitted with a large refrigerator and cooker, and a large covered patio. The 4 Flamboyant Apartments are similar but are air-conditioned throughout and have a balcony or patio.
Captain Don’s Habitat has a fleet of 5 dive boats which whisk divers to various dive sites. A choice of dive sites is offered daily, and unlimited shore diving tanks are included in the package price. Shore diving is available from the dive dock at Captain Don’s.
‘Exposures’ is the on-site photo-shop where equipment hire and a variety of underwater photography courses are available. A travel shop and car rental company are also available to assist with local trips and excursions. Bonaire is of course the shore-diving capital of the world, with an array of wonderful, easy access sites.
Price: from about £72 per night (without diving from about £40 per night). Includes: room-only accommodation on a twin/share basis in a Villa Ocean View Room at Captain Don’s Habitat; 2 boat dives daily and unlimited shore diving tanks, dive guide during boat dives. Meal Plans: from about £7 per night for breakfast; from about £24 per night for half-board (breakfast and dinner); from about £34 per night for full-board (breakfast, lunch and dinner). Reduction available for shore diving only. Airport transfers: from about £14 return. Deposit: £200.
Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £21 per night.
FLIGHTS: Prices from about £885 to Bonaire. There are daily flight connections to Bonaire. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on routing, season, current fare levels and booking class availability. Our quote will include all taxes and fuel supplements applicable at the time of quotation, as well as our service charge. The usual airfare deposit is £300.
COMBINATIONS: A novel combination, made possible by the fact that KLM flights to Quito and Guayaquil stop in Bonaire, is Bonaire and the fantastic Galapagos. Talk to us about the possibilities.
Warm, shallow water and sunshine mean that underwater photographers and snorkelers can enjoy Bonaire's great reefs (Martin Edge)
