Search Divequest

Galapagos Aggressors

Sky Dancer

Galapagos Eco Explorer

The Eastern Pacific

THE GALAPAGOS

Adventurous diving around Darwins Enchanted Isles

Eagle rays grace the waters of the Galapagos Islands. (Wayne Hasson)

Positioned on the equator some 1,000 km out into the Pacific Ocean from mainland Ecuador lie the islands known as ‘las islas encantadas’ or ‘the enchanted islands’. Here the very tips of huge underwater volcanoes emerge from the ocean and occupy a unique location. The cold Humboldt current from Antarctica and a warm current that runs southwards from Central America intersect over this thin spot in the crust of the earth that still, from time to time, spurts hot lava. The fusion of these two great currents affords divers the intensely exciting experience of encountering penguins and sealions, that may originally have journeyed north from the ice-filled waters of Antarctica, and also angelfish, Moorish Idols and turtles that are more usually associated with warm, coral seas.

Look out for the weird Red-lipped Batfish with its strange leg-like appendages and its unicorn-like spike and also for tiny brown and orange seahorses hiding amid the corals. Bizarrely-shaped Scalloped Hammerhead sharks school in large numbers, sweeping their wide heads backwards and forwards as they patrol, whilst magnificent Manta Rays, their mouths stretched wide and their cephalic fins braced to channel the water, glide quietly by as they scoop up huge quantities of plankton. Diving in the Galapagos is like taking a journey in a time machine: some of the species seem to have stepped straight from prehistoric times and others appear to be so alien that they could have been created on some far-flung planet.

Above the waves, the stark and beautiful islands of the Galapagos are largely unspoilt by development and are carefully protected as one of the most precious of the world’s natural showpieces. It was here that Charles Darwin formulated his theories on evolution through natural selection about 150 years ago. Thanks to the isolation of the islands the plants and animals that found their way to the Galapagos developed along their own pathways, giving rise to species quite different from their mainland cousins. In the islands’ interiors ancient giant tortoises lumber slowly across the volcanic landscape whilst along the shorelines brightly-coloured Sally Lightfoot crabs dance through the foam. Colonies of Land Iguanas feed on cacti and grasses whilst dark-skinned Marine Iguanas, which can dive down to a depth of 12 metres or more, swim with heads held high above the water or dive to feed on seaweed on the ocean floor.

A check-out dive at North Seymour will get divers used to the currents and thermoclines that can be expected during the course of the week and it may be here that one first encounters an impressive school of hammerheads or the amazing phenomenon of diving with Blue-footed Boobies, gannet-like birds which hit the water like arrows and dive to depth of 5 or 6 metres, leaving a U-shaped trail of bubbles as evidence of their ‘flight’ through the water.

Shearwaters and petrels skim the waves in great numbers at Roca Redonda. Below the water, near the anchorage site, is a shallow reef area and a sheer rock wall, both of which are subject to strong currents and heavy swell. At about 10 metres, active geysers form sheets of bubbles just like those which stream from a diver’s regulator. Barnacles and sponges encrust the warm rocks, so beware of trying to take a hand-hold as the shells are razor sharp! Schools of Yellow-tailed Surgeonfish and King Angelfish are common here where the slope gradually gives way to a volcanic rubble-filled bottom at a depth of about 15 metres. Appearing out of the blue, one or two hammerheads may be joined by more and more until the pack reaches perhaps 60 or 70 in number. These amazing animals, some up to 3 metres in length, frequently swim very close to divers with their scalloped heads sweeping the water as they glide by. Naughty, playful California Sealions (of the Galapagos race) twist and wriggle in the water, their bodies turning and diving with streamlined elegance as if they were made out of rubber. Some less timid individuals may tug on the diver’s fins or even grasp at a snorkel! The rocks here are plastered with large sharp barnacles and gloves must be worn to protect the hands.

Crossing the equator to the southern hemisphere, we come to the thrilling dive site of Cabo Marshall on the north-east coast of Isabela, which is famous for its encounters with Manta Rays. Here in the strong currents can be found huge schools of the endemic Black-stripped Salema, White-tip Reef Sharks, Galapagos Sharks and a variety of rays, eels and large groupers.

At Cousin Rock off the east coast of James Island a series of rocky ledges like giant steps are packed with colourful starfish and other invertebrates. A host of reef fish make their homes amongst the profuse growth of Black and Yellow-black Galapagos Corals, while barracudas, creolefish and several species of hawkfish are often found here. It is, however, the exciting selection of larger creatures that are found at this dive site that make it truly memorable. Groups of up to 10 Spotted Eagle Rays glide slowly around, hammerheads often cruise by and Green Turtles, silhouetted against the sun, flap lazily through the water while sealions happily come to play with divers.

One of the finest dive sites to be found around the central islands is Gordon Rocks. Here divers get the unique opportunity of diving within the cone of an old volcano, which once stood proudly above the waves but which over the years has succumbed to the ravages of the wind, rain and sea. Between the two rocks that break the surface are three vertical ridges that come to within 10 to 12 metres of the surface. Marine life abounds and here one can regularly record several species of sharks as well as moray eels, rays, snappers, groupers and large jacks. Turn a corner on these rocks and you are likely to bump into a hammerhead school! Look up and witness the amazing site of a ‘flock’ of Spotted Eagle Rays flying overhead and perhaps blotting out the sunlight! At about 30 metres the centre of the cone is filled with sand which forms the perfect habitat for a colony of garden eels, shyly peeping out and warily observing the passing marine life. Friendly and curious Galapagos Fur Seals are often encountered here.

Without doubt the finest, most thrilling diving is found around the small islands of Wolf and Darwin, two exceptional dive sites to the north of the equator and well away from the usual cruise itineraries. These two sites live up to their reputation of being ‘the’ place for big animal encounters. Perhaps because of the remoteness of the area, the animals here show less fear of divers and several people have reported Galapagos Sharks coming to within one metre. Conditions around these remote uninhabited volcanic rock islands can be very variable and there are sometimes big swells. There is no landing point here and boats must anchor in the open water. Below the water an exciting swell can lift and drop divers up and down the water column by up to 5 metres! At about 20 to 30 metres one can often see clouds of hammerheads passing over. The rocks and crevices hold Green Morays and many poisonous and well-camouflaged scorpionfish. Watch the water here and you may see the steely glint of silver combined with sooty black as this is a famous mating site for jacks. The mating ritual involves the male partner turning virtually black and pairing off with a silver female partner. The fish life is so profuse that many divers describe these dive sites as ‘wall to wall fish’. It is well worth sitting on a rock, or simply holding on, just as a bird-watcher would settle down in a hide, and simply watching as quietly as possible as the waters of the Galapagos reveal their finest show of creatures great and small parading in their thousands. Some of the diving cruises that visit Wolf and Darwin encounter magnificent and awe-inspiring Whale Sharks, an experience of which every diver dreams. Rays, hammerheads, Green Turtles, Hawksbill Turtles – the list is seemingly endless – pass by unafraid of the aliens in their midst. Here too Galapagos Penguins, Flightless Cormorants and boobies can be observed gracefully diving in a habitat which they merely ‘borrow’ in search of food.

Several species of cetaceans can be observed in the waters of Galapagos. Perhaps the most common is the Short-finned Pilot Whale, but Humpback Whales and Sperm Whales are also regularly sighted, particularly to the north and west of Isabela and Fernandina.

Although not particularly difficult, Galapagos offers more challenging diving conditions than the average tropical diving area. Divers should be experienced before exploring this wonderful place. Strong currents, surge and swell can combine with cool waters and occasional spells of poor visibility. Although surface temperatures can reach 27°C in the hottest season (December-March), the presence of thermoclines means that the water at 20 metres is usually considerably cooler and divers are recommended to wear a 5-7 mm wetsuit.

GALAPAGOS ECO EXPLORER

The latest addition to the well-respected Explorer Ventures fleet, Galapagos Eco Explorer is now scheduled to commence service in 2009. Until the final confirmation of the dive permits for all dive sites has been received, the well-known Estrella del Mar is being used in place of Galapagos Eco Explorer. It is envisaged that Galapagos Eco Explorer will be available for all or most 2009 trips, but please check the up to date situation with us.

Galapagos Eco Explorer has 9 air-conditioned Staterooms and carries a maximum of 16 passengers. Eight of the staterooms have queen-sized or twin beds and private en suite bathroom with shower, and are situated on the main and upper decks. The spacious and comfortable rooms have extensive storage areas and a seating area with large sliding windows and panoramic views to the islands or across the ocean. The Owners’ Suite has a king-sized bed and also has a private sitting room in addition to the facilities outlined above. The interior of the boat is beautifully appointed and this is considered to be one of the most luxurious boats in Galapagos. There is a large dining room and salon on the main deck, an open-air salon on the upper deck and an extensive sundeck on the top deck, so finding a spot to relax is certainly not a problem on Galapagos Eco Explorer. The salon is equipped with a stereo system, TV and DVD, video library, comfortable seating areas and plenty of re-charging facilities. There is an extensive array of professional-standard audio and visual editing facilities for computer files. The boat is equipped with 2 large, stable pangas, used for both dive trips and for taking guests to enjoy shore excursions. The dive deck has a bathroom with shower and WC, individual lockers for each diver’s equipment , a camera table with low pressure air hose and separate rinse tanks for cameras and dive equipment. Nitrox is available.

The diving day usually starts around 0630, followed by breakfast. Dives are then offered at 0930 and 1100 before the break for lunch at 1230. An afternoon dive is scheduled for 1430 and dinner is served at 1900. On days when sailing to or from Wolf and Darwin, only 3 dives are scheduled due to the additional sailing time. Night dives may be offered if local conditions and sailing schedules allow. Galapagos Eco Explorer offers 7 nights packages throughout the year sailing from Galapagos (either Baltra or St Cristobal) on Mondays.

Galapagos Eco Explorer requires all divers to be experienced (it is recommended that divers have over 100 logged dives) and that you have at least one logged dive during the 6 months prior to your cruise.

Price: from about £2090. Includes: airport transfers; 7 nights cruise on Galapagos Eco Explorer on a twin/share basis with full board, including non-alcoholic and local alcoholic beverages; 5 full days of diving (usually 3 or 4 dives per day) plus one or two dives on the last day; an average of one or two shore excursions daily; services of the boat’s naturalists/dive guides. A Galapagos National Park fee of US$100, a Tourist Card fee of US$10, a Chamber Support Fee of US$35, and a fuel surcharge of US$160 (subject to change) are not included in the package price. The park fee and Tourist Card fee will be collected on arrival in Galapagos and the other charges will be collected on board. Deposit: £750.

Single Occupancy Supplement: 65% of the cruise cost (but you can avoid paying the supplement if you are willing to share a cabin).

SKY DANCER

The latest addition to the Peter Hughes’ Fleet, Sky Dancer, carries a maximum of 16 passengers in 8 staterooms. The four Master Staterooms, situated on the upper (lido) deck, have one queen-sized bed or two single beds, private head and shower and a window view. The four Deluxe Twin Staterooms have two single beds with private head and shower and a porthole view. Each cabin provides a quiet and elegant space for relaxing, reading or sleeping. Towelling robes are provided for your stay on the boat. Clean towels are provided daily and clean sheets are provided mid-week. Complimentary toiletries are placed at the wash basin and each stateroom is provided with a hair dryer. Eight crew offer superb service at all times, from morning coffee in your room to taking your tank at the dive platform on your return to the boat or providing hot towels at the end of a night dive.

The dive deck features a water fountain, mask defogging station, weight belt area, two showers, and a supply of fresh towels. Special rinse tanks for cameras are situated on the dive deck. Dive information is displayed on a large board which shows depth and marine life information. Of special interest to underwater photographers is the spacious multi-tiered, carpeted photo-table complete with cleaning materials. A full camera and video rental service is available at daily or weekly rates. The boat has a photo pro on board who will assist you with your photography and also, if you wish, take a customized video of your diving holiday. Sky Dancer offers Nitrox facilities at an extra charge and a range of courses including PADI Advanced Open Water, IANTD, TDI and PADI Nitrox certification, and Paul Humann Fish and Creature Identification. A full range of diving equipment is available for rental.

After diving most people head for the sundeck where they can relax (either in or out of the sun) and help themselves to iced drinks and delicious snacks. Freshly baked breads and biscuits show up in the morning and appetizers are served in the afternoon. Beverages and snacks are available at all times in the salon (along with a well-stocked bar). Hot breakfasts are cooked to order. Lunch is usually a buffet-style spread and dinner is a waiter-served gourmet feast. Wine is served with dinner and after dinner drinks are always offered.

Sky Dancer operates out of the harbour at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal island for 7 night cruises departing on Sundays throughout the year. All cruises include Darwin and Wolf, subject to local conditions.

Price: from about £2036. Includes: airport transfers; 7 nights cruise on Sky Dancer on a twin/share basis with full board, including soft drinks, wine, beer and spirits; 5 full days of diving (up to 4 dives per day, including night dives) plus one or two dives on the last day; Land excursions on some days. Reductions for divers 65 or over, non-divers and extra weeks. In addition, there is a Galapagos National Park and tourism fee of about £59, a recompression chamber support fee of about £19 and a fuel surcharge of about £86 (subject to change) which must be prepaid. Deposit: £500.

Single Occupancy Supplement: 65% of the cruise cost (but you can avoid paying the supplement if you are willing to share a cabin).

GALAPAGOS AGGRESSOR I & GALAPAGOS AGGRESSOR II

Galapagos Aggressor I and Galapagos Aggressor II are very comfortable liveaboards that each carry a maximum of 14 passengers in seven twin-berth staterooms. Each of the six Deluxe Staterooms has private head and shower and air conditioning with individual climate controls and two single beds. The Master Suite is similar but has a double bed. Seven crew provide superb service throughout the cruise and make sure your diving holiday runs smoothly. Between dives guests can relax on the sundeck (either in or out of the shade) or try the amazing hot tub! The salon has an excellent collection of books, videos and music to enjoy.

The dive deck covers the aft third of the main deck. Large gear lockers double as seats and line the rails and centre. Two tanks are mounted at the back of each locker, so it is easy to don your equipment at your seat or ask for the tank to be taken to the dive platform. Dive information is displayed on a large board which shows depth and marine life information. A large three-tiered camera table has plenty of space for camera assembly or preparation and separate rinse tanks are kept for cameras and videos. The photography department provides rental cameras and accessories as well as the services of the photo pro if you require a model or expert advice. A range of PADI and NAUI speciality courses are offered on the Galapagos Aggressors including Nitrox training and facilities. A full range of diving equipment is available for rental by pre-arrangement.

For after the dive there is a freshwater shower and clean towels awaiting, as well as the chef’s freshly prepared snacks to appease the after-dive hunger pangs! Delicious barbecues, American-style and local dishes are served; breads, biscuits and baked snacks come strait from the oven. Most meals are served buffet-style.

Galapagos Aggressors I & II operate from the harbour at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal island for 7 nights cruises, departing every Thursday throughout the year. Both boats cover the northern part of the archipelago, including Wolf and Darwin, and offer an average of three dives per day plus one to two land visits daily.

Price: from about £2412. Includes: airport transfers; 7 nights cruise on Galapagos Aggressor I or II on a twin/share basis with full board, including non-alcoholic and local alcoholic beverages; 5 full days of diving (an average of 3 dives per day, including night dives) plus one or two dives on the last day; an average of one or two shore excursions daily; services of the boat’s naturalists/dive guides. Reductions for divers 65 or over, non-divers and extra weeks. A visitor’s card fee of US$10 and a port tax of US$70 (subject to change) are not included in the package price. The visitor’s card fee will be collected on arrival in Galapagos and the other charge will be collected on board. Deposit: £1100.

Single Occupancy Supplement: 50% of the cruise cost (but you can avoid paying the supplement if you are willing to share a cabin).

EXPLORING THE ECUADOR MAINLAND

You will need to break your journey to and from Galapagos, so why not take some time to explore beautiful Ecuador itself? Below are just two of the possibilities, one in the Andes and the other in the Amazonian rainforest. Talk to us about all the possibilities.

BELLAVISTA CLOUD FOREST RESERVE

Just two hours easy drive from the bustling Ecuadorian capital city of Quito, Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve is an fascinating and relaxing place to visit either before or after a dive trip to the Galapagos. Bellavista is set in a private reserve of 700 hectares of pristine cloud forest in the Upper Tandayapa valley, on the west slope of the Andes and enjoys superb views of the surrounding area.

Hummingbird feeders are arranged all around the lodge buildings and relaxing here will give you the opportunity to see up to 16 different species of hummingbirds. Wonderfully evocative names match their iridescent plumage and you will soon see Velvet-Purple Coronets and Andean Emeralds, plus many others, zipping back and forth flashing jewel-like colours of ruby, emerald, sapphire and jade green. From just a few centimetres away it is possible to sit and watch their frantic comings and goings throughout the day. Each room has its own hummingbird feeder, so you can enjoy this fantastic spectacle from your own private balcony.

The more adventurous can explore some of the reserve’s 7 kilometres of easy forest trails (either alone or with a local naturalist guide), strolling through the beautiful cloud forest with its colourful birds and moss-strewn trees, laden with epiphytes (‘air plants’ which grow on other plants) such as bromeliads and orchids.

The lodge is based round a 4-storey, bamboo geodesic dome and has just 15 simply furnished but comfortable rooms with en-suite bathrooms. Each room, either in the main lodge or in the ‘bamboo house’ close by, has one double or two twin beds. Meals are taken in an atmospheric central dining room and include both Ecuadorian and international cuisine. The 360 degree view from the dome allows you to gaze upon the rugged volcanic cones of Pinchincha and Cotacachi towering above the rainforest in the distance. Daily walks, guided by local naturalists, are available for you to join if you wish, but you are free to explore alone should you wish to.

Price: from about £129. Includes: 2 nights accommodation on a twin/share basis in a room with private bathroom at Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve Lodge; all meals from lunch on arrival day to lunch on departure day; naturalist guided hikes. Deposit: £100.

Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £11.

NAPO WILDLIFE CENTER

Napo Wildlife Center is widely acknowledged as the one of the most comfortable lodges in Ecuador’s Amazon rainforest and is the way to sample another of the world’s natural wonders.

Reaching this fantastic area deep in the Amazon basin is an adventure in itself. You will fly from Quito to Coca and then transfer down the Napo River, firstly by motorized canoe and then by paddling canoe, until you reach Napo Wildlife Center’s excellent lodge.

In the wonderful nearby rainforest, blinds (or hides) built at ‘clay licks’ are often attended by a colourful throng of hundreds of noisy parrots and parakeets. A dense whirring mass of emerald green, flashes of indigo and cobalt can be seen as the parakeets visit this area. An occasional rainbow-coloured flash will be a visiting macaw. The parrots are at the clay lick to eat clay as a supplement to their diet because it contains minerals which neutralises toxins in the nuts they feed on. On guided excursions into the surrounding rainforest and to a large lagoon there are regular sightings of awesome, two metre long Giant Otters, various species of monkeys and a bewildering array of tropical birds.

The lodge itself consists of 10 very comfortable cabañas, a large dining hall and a well-stocked bar! The cabañas, with private porches and lake views, feature large rooms with one king-sized bed and one twin-sized bed. All cabañas have private bathrooms with ‘on-demand’ hot water showers and both ceiling fans and secure, bug-proof screens. Despite its remote location the lodge offers 24 hour electricity with plenty of lights and power points. Two tall viewing towers offer commanding views over the surrounding forest canopy and are an excellent way to observe the secret lives of the rainforest’s inhabitants, as well as to enjoy spectacular views over the surrounding area.

Price: from about £453 for 3 nights; from about £561 for 4 nights. Includes: flights Quito/Coca/Quito; Coca airport/lodge transfers; 3 or 4 nights full board (breakfast, lunch and dinner) on a twin/share basis at Napo Wildlife Center; guided excursions. Departure from Quito can be on any day of the week except Sunday. Longer stays than 4 nights can be arranged. Deposit: £200.

Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £193 for 3 nights; from about £247 for 4 nights.

FLIGHTS: Prices from about £935 to Quito or Guayaquil (plus from about £229 onwards to Galapagos).There are daily flight connections to Quito and Guayaquil. It is always necessary to overnight in one of these cities en route to Galapagos and sometimes on the return journey also. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on routing, season, current fare levels and booking class availability. Our quote will include all taxes and fuel supplements applicable at the time of quotation, as well as our service charge. The usual airfare deposit is £500.

COMBINATIONS: A novel combination, made possible by the fact that KLM flights to Quito and Guayaquil stop in Bonaire, is the Galapagos and Bonaire. Talk to us about the possibilities.

Whale Shark (Explorer Ventures)