South-East Asia
LEMBEH STRAIT, SULAWESI
The best ‘macro diving’ on earth!
Season: Year-round diving
Visibility: 8-25 metres
Water Temperature: 24-27°C
Special Offer: Aggressor Fleet Dive The World Club Members – bring a friend for half price on selected cruises: North Sulawesi Aggressor: 2-9 May 2009, 8-15 May 2009, 24-31 October 2009. (You automatically become a member of the ‘Dive The World Club’ after taking an Aggressor cruise).
Lizardfish trying to eat Bennett's Pufferfish by Martin edge
The secluded and exceptional dive resort at Kungkungan Bay is situated on the leeward side of the northeastern arm of the starfish-shaped island of Sulawesi, about 10 kilometres north of the port of Bitung (itself not far from the city of Manado), while the new Lembeh Resort is situated opposite it on Lembeh Island. The coastline of Sulawesi and the long, narrow island of Lembeh running parallel to it form the calm channel of the Lembeh Strait, where divers can experience some of Indonesia’s finest diving. This extraordinary locale now ranks as perhaps the world’s top location for weird and wonderful marine critters.
The coastlines of Sulawesi and Lembeh Island provide a wide variety of habitats including not only numerous coral reefs but also sandy bays, mangrove swamps, an old lava flow surrounded by jagged rock, volcanic outcrops and a newly discovered wreck. For those divers who are interested in rare or unusual species, the Lembeh Strait is the jewel in the Asian crown. The variety of marine life, which includes squid, octopus, seahorses, frogfish, scorpionfish, devilfish, Crocodilefish, stargazers, dragonets, Flying Gurnards, Mandarinfish, sea spiders, crabs, shrimps and sea snakes make this area a serious contender as the world’s finest diving destination for anyone with a serious interest in marine creatures and it has already attracted a long series of marine biologists, photographers and authors. Over 180 species of fish have already been listed in just one small area in the bay!
A rich supply of plankton is carried into the strait and concentrated there by the prevailing currents. Whilst this means that the water is not crystal clear, it does result in a wide and unique diversity of marine life. Both the number of species and the superb variety mean that this is the place where even well-travelled and experienced divers will find creatures they have never discovered elsewhere. It has been said that Kungkungan Bay has the densest concentration of nocturnal species anywhere in Indonesia and in 1994 a National Geographic film crew selected the Lembeh Strait to shoot a special on marine life. Year-round diving is offered at Kungkungan Bay due to its protected position from both the northeast and the southwest monsoons. Kungkungan Bay offers a unique combination of ‘fun’ diving opportunities and the chance to see many little-known creatures for those interested in underwater wildlife. It is a spectacular destination for the macro-photographer.
At Nudi Retreat a sandy cove is fringed by a low but beautiful coral wall. As with so many dive sites at Lembeh Strait, the sandy slopes are well worth investigating. Here Flying Gurnards hover just a centimetre or so above the surface, or glide slowly away on their wing-like fins, suggesting some strange hovercraft. Pegasus (or Short) Sea Moths are surely some of the most bizarre yet delightful fish on earth and watching a pair of these strangely-shaped creatures (complete with ‘beaks’ and circular, outstretched pectoral fins) shuffle along on the bottom, the female following the male, is an enthralling experience. Along the wall, keep a lookout for Ribbon Eels, the strange vertical-aligned Coral Shrimpfish (or Razorfish), frogfish of several species and a remarkable variety of colourful and oddly-shaped nudibranchs.
Dive sites like Hairball and Jahir seem at first sight to be the complete antithesis of normal warm water diving: not a coral reef in sight, just a slope of dark volcanic sand and silt stretching down into the gloom, poor visibility (perhaps 8 metres or less) and a scattering of debris. Don’t be put off by the scenery, however, for here lurks a splendid collection of animals that richly rewards the diver both by day and by night. Check out the sponges that cling to bits of debris down here, for some of those yellow or orange blobs could well be frogfish (Giant, Clown and Striated are all regular). Relying on a different kind of camouflage, the sandy-coloured Hairy Frogfish (apparently an unusual morph of the more widespread Striated Frogfish), looks like some strange shaggy dog as it crouches on the sandy bottom or ‘walks’ slowly along on its modified pectoral fins, occasionally wriggling its remarkably worm-like lure. Ambon Scorpionfish, equally masters of camouflage, look like shredded lumps of seaweed, even ‘playing dead’ and drifting over the bottom like a clump of algae if threatened. Spiny Devilfish make scorpionfish look positively attractive, while the equally strange Finger Dragonet scrabbles over the surface using the finger-like spines on its modified pectoral fins. Other interesting animals here include Black-finned Snake Eels (only their heads poking out of the sand as they lie in ambush), Common Seahorse, Peacock Flounder, various mantis shrimps and many nudibranchs, including the impressive T-bar nudibranch. At night the Stargazers shuffle their way to the surface, their faces staring upwards like some strange demonic skull half-buried in the sand. Huge slipper lobsters trundle over the surface like relics of the Jurassic age and sea hares ripple as they move about their business. Black sea urchins reflect iridescent purple and red in the spotlight beam as they move across the bottom, often harbouring Urchin Cardinalfish and shrimps amongst their long spines.
One of the strangest yet most rewarding dive sites at Lembeh Strait is Mandarin, named after the Mandarinfish that live there. Mandarinfish are only active around dawn and dusk, so this is one dive that starts as a day dive and ends as a night dive! As the gloom gathers one fins over a valley of soft coral and then over a ‘pass’ covered in staghorn coral before reaching an amphitheatre-like structure filled with coral rubble and mushroom coral. Here one settles down to wait until, at the appointed hour, just before it gets dark, little shapes can be seen scuttling round amongst the crevices. The judicious application of a spotlight reveals these most wondrously beautiful little fish, dressed as if in patterned green, orange, red and blue silk! If you are really lucky you will see a pair mating, rising up suddenly in unison into the open water before equally suddenly retreating to the safety of the coral.
The coral-encrusted wreck of the World War II freighter Tanduk Rusa lies on its side in 17 to 30 metres of water and is still in remarkably good condition. Crinoids, trees of black corals and draping elegant soft corals have made this once sea-worthy vessel their home. Huge schools of fish gather here including the delightful swaying Teira Batfish and vast swarms of darting silversides. Moray eels peep out and ‘snarl’ from their crevices, but perhaps the most beautiful performance is provided by the exquisite lionfish as a chorus of up to 40 individuals besport their elegant fins in a fabulous underwater ballet.
Rough chunks of black volcanic rock mark the site of an old lava flow at Batu Angus (Burnt Rock). In this sheltered area almost every inch of the rock is covered with coral. Huge anemones, some over a metre in diameter, are sprinkled liberally over the area whilst damselfish, butterflyfish and shy gobies are abundant. This spectacularly beautiful coral garden is also a superb spot for snorkelers. At Batu Sandar, another beautiful coral garden, Ornate (or Harlequin) Ghost Pipefish drift amongst the crinoids and fans, taking up the colours of their hosts, whether black, yellow or even mauve.
Batu Kapal (Stone Ship) is situated off the most northerly point of Lembeh Island. Not a dive for the novice, as it is usually washed by fairly strong currents, this site affords superb diving and the best opportunity for pelagic observations. The Batu Kapal is in actual fact a large rock shaped somewhat like a ship and the dive begins at the bottom of the rock at about 24 metres. From here a submerged ridge runs towards smaller pinnacles at about 36 metres. Coral cover is provided by both soft and plate corals and huge mixed schools of surgeonfish and jacks swarm all over. The strong currents sweep in the nutrients that feed the food chain, attracting big fish: Grey and White-tip Reef Sharks, huge schools of barracudas, Dogtooth and Bluefin Tuna, turtles and even the occasional Whale Shark are sighted here. Visibility in this area can be up to 25 metres or more.
Shore-diving at Kungkungan Bay Resort’s House Reef can be rewarding. Beautiful red gorgonians grow on the wooden struts of the pier at only 10 centimetres below the surface and in the top five metres of the water column cuttlefish, scorpionfish, crabs and superbly coloured nudibranchs can be found roaming around the coral formations. Out in the bay, the sloping reef is broken by small drop-offs and ledges. Beautiful soft corals in delicate shades of pink, bright orange and red, along with large sponges and sea whips, cover most of the reef. In the north of the bay, coral bommies (heads of coral) project from a sandy slope. Everywhere anemones, each with its own shrimps and anemone fish, litter the reef. Pygmy Seahorses regularly occur on the sea fans below about 20 metres. At certain times the current in the straight forms an eddy current in the bay, known locally as ‘the merry-go-round’, which can be great fun to ride: divers can ride up the coast on the main current and back on the eddy!
KUNGKUNGAN BAY RESORT
The luxurious Kungkungan Bay Resort was purpose-built in 1994 and completely refurbished during 2004 (including the addition of a swimming pool and improvements to the dedicated camera workshop). The resort is almost always blessed with a mild breeze that lifts and stirs the coconut palms. The beautifully designed restaurant, glassed on all sides, perches out over the water with views of the grassy and chalk cliffs of Serena Island and the wooded ridges of Lembeh Island rising in the distance beyond. The restaurant offers international cuisine specializing in Thai, Malay, Indonesian and Mexican food as well as western-style dishes. Very extensive menus are offered and you are welcome to select whatever you like and as much as you like! Meals can be arranged at any time of the day or night! A very warm welcome and superb service from the local staff awaits the diver who seeks out this luxurious tropical hideaway adjacent to the pristine reefs of the Lembeh Strait. Kungkungan Bay Resort has been described as the finest diving resort in Indonesia, and without a doubt the local dive guides are exceptionally good. Well used to catering for keen photographers and marine biologists, their ability to find strange ‘critters’ for their guests is legendary.
Traditional House rooms have 2 queen-sized beds, air-conditioning, ceiling fans and well equipped bathrooms with shower. Rooms are L-shaped and provide the perfect choice for friends sharing accommodation. Cottage Suites are large and spacious with a sitting room and veranda, 2 queen-sized beds, air-conditioning ceiling fans and a large bathroom. Deluxe Rooms are air-conditioned and offer a modern, open style. They are exceptionally spacious with a living area, king-sized bed, large veranda and large bathroom. They make a great choice for couples who enjoy a more romantic style of accommodation! All rooms are beachfront.
Some months at the resort are designated ‘speciality months’, featuring a well-known expert underwater photographer, videographer or marine biologist.
Three single-tank boat dives are included each day. With the dive sites only 5-10 minutes from the resort, divers return to the resort between dives. The morning briefing and boat dive take place after a leisurely breakfast and you will return in time to take advantage of the superb cuisine provided by the resort kitchens. Afternoon briefings and boat dives start after lunch. Shore diving is available at any time at the discretion of the dive master, who ensures that tides and local conditions are suitable before granting permission. Night dives are available on request, at extra cost. Nitrox is available at an extra charge.
Price: from about £402 (from about £225 without diving) for the first 4 nights, then from about £110 per night (from about £56 per night without diving). Includes: transfers between Manado airport (or Tasik Ria, or Kima Bajo) and Kungkungan Bay Resort; 4 nights full board accommodation (breakfast, lunch and dinner) on a twin/share basis in a Traditional House Room or a Cottage Suite at Kungkungan Bay Resort; 3 boat dives daily and shore diving on request), dive guide for boat dives. Deposit: £200.
Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £16 per night.
LEMBEH RESORT
Located on the island of Lembeh, the small and intimate Lembeh Resort has a collection of air-conditioned deluxe cottages, nestled in the trees. Each spacious Deluxe Cottage has a veranda overlooking the sea and large private bathroom. After the long dives in Lembeh Strait, relax and enjoy the Balinese-style outdoor shower or bath, each with individual hot water heater! The restaurant is just short walk from the cottages and is housed upstairs in the large hexagonal building that also contains the offices, gift shop, large screen television and library.
The Lembeh Resort dive team has extensive experience diving in the strait. Their focus on personal attention means that they will do their utmost to ensure that guests will see most, if not all, the creatures on their wish lists. Up to four boat dives are offered each day, with the majority of the 40+ sites within the Lembeh Strait only minutes away by boat. Unlimited unguided shore diving is available. Divers can rest assured that they can accomplish as much diving as they desire.
The spacious camera room and equipment washing/drying facilities are only steps from the boat. Once you have made your first dive, the team will see that the equipment is carried, washed and stored, and then be on the boat ready for the next dive. Special consideration is given to photographers (whose delicate equipment often seems the centre of their universe). Nitrox facilities and courses are available.
Price: from about £737 (from about £445 without diving) for a 7 nights stay. (This is just an example: packages of almost any length are available.) Includes: Manado airport transfers by road and boat; 7 nights full board accommodation (breakfast, lunch and dinner) on a twin/share basis in a Deluxe Cottage at Lembeh Resort; 17 boat dives and unlimited shore diving, dive guide on boat dives. Deposit: £200.
Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £19 per night.
PARADISE DANCER & NORTH SULAWESI AGGRESSOR
Both these liveaboards sail out of Lembeh Strait and spend some time exploring the dive sites of the Lembeh Strait, as well as visiting the wonderful Bangka Archipelago with its extraordinary soft coral gardens (and, in the case of Paradise Dancer, some very remote dive sites in the Sangihe-Talaud Archipelago), and the famous Bunaken Marine Park near Manado. For full details, please see our Gangga, Bangka & Sangihe holiday description.
FLIGHTS: Prices from about £811 to Manado. There are daily flight connections to Manado (but the quickest and least expensive routings are not every day). We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on routing, season, current fare levels and booking class availability. Our quote will include all taxes and fuel supplements applicable at the time of quotation, as well as our service charge. The usual airfare deposit is £300.
STOP-OVERS: These are available in Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta or Denpasar, depending on flight routing.
COMBINATIONS: As you will pass through Manado en route to Kungkungan Bay, we can, if you wish, arrange for you to stay in the Manado area and enjoy the fabulous diving of Bunaken Marine Park. Alternatively, why not visit Gangga and Bangka islands with their wonderful marine life, including extraordinary soft coral gardens. As you will be passing through Singapore or Kuala Lumpur en route, side trips to any of the many famous diving areas in Southeast Asia can also be arranged. Talk to us about the possibilities.
Mandarin Fish get friendly in the Lembeh Strait by Annelise Hagan
