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South-East Asia

MINDORO & NEGROS, THE PHILIPPINES

Glorious beaches, stunning coral and some weird creatures

An anemone fish gazes up at Jeremy Cuff

The Philippines, with its glorious beaches and fabulous diving, is often overlooked by divers seeking to holiday in Asia, but for those wanting a really good value destination with lovely diving (including a truly fantastic selection of ‘macro critters’), outstanding diving service, and comfortable and friendly accommodations, it is a natural choice. This huge archipelago possesses many thousands of miles of beautiful coastline and beneath the waves lie many thousands of miles of coral reefs! From shallow reefs ideal for underwater photographers, critter-watchers or those beginning their diving career, to tall, sheer and dramatic walls with schools of ocean-loving fish, you are sure to find what you are looking for in the Philippines. Here also you will find palm-fringed beaches with the softest, silver-white sand, cascading waterfalls and seas that shades from the palest blue to the deepest sapphire.

With so many resorts to choose from, of very varying quality, we have been very careful in our selection, choosing two resorts which combine the very best western management with superb Indo-Pacific diving and service. Both Atlantis Dive Resorts are PADI Five Star resorts with first class accommodation. Atlantis Puerto Galera and Atlantis Dumaguete not only offer wonderful diving but also gracious hospitality and the security of knowing you are diving with a truly competent and professional outfit. Why not combine a week or more in each resort?

PUERTO GALERA

One of the oldest Spanish settlements in the Philippines Puerto Galera is situated on the northern peninsula of the island of Mindoro, 160 kms from Manila and separated from the island of Luzon by the Verde Island passage, an area which can have strong currents bringing waters from the South China Sea and making for spectacular and exhilarating drift dives accompanied by turtles, barracudas and pelagic species riding the current with you. But around the sheltered coastline there are many bays and lagoons where one can enjoy a ‘lazy’ dive with the smallest creatures and schools of brightly coloured reef fish. The hard and soft corals are amongst the most spectacular in the world.

Every tropical diving area has its Coral Gardens and Puerto Galera is no exception. The dive starts at just 3 metres and descends to 10 metres, so bottom time is never an issue. Coral heads and brain corals rest on a background of lovely pearl-coloured sand. Almost all the commoner species of reef fish can be found here: angelfish in bright colours, tiny pipefish sneaking through the coral, dancing orange anthias and damselfish aplenty. Who can resist settling on the sand to watch waving garden eels or those tireless little shovelling shrimps and their goby partners? Check out small cavelets and shelves, for White-tipped Reef Sharks love to sleep in these nooks and crannies.

There are two small wrecks, collectively named the Sabang Wrecks, where the bottom is at a maximum depth of 18 metres. A school of friendly and photogenic batfish are usually waiting to watch you descend the shot line to the sandy sea bottom, where the wreck of a Vietnamese fishing boat lies swarming with damselfish and covered in marine life. Some divemasters fish feed here to encourage the batfish and surgeonfish. Look out for White-eyed and Snowflake Moray Eels, frogfish and fabulous mantis shrimps. Just a short swim away you will find the steel hull of a sailboat scuttled by a local dive shop to create a new artificial reef. Though time has not yet been sufficient to carpet the wreck in corals, this is more than made up for by the superb fish population, which includes the largest of the surgeonfish, the Yellowfin. The wrecks are also superb to dive at night, with lionfish and scorpionfish feeding, stargazers gazing ‘soulfully’ from the sandy sea bed and even schools of small squid attracted to divers’ lights.

A day trip to Verde Island involves a 30-40 minutes boat ride for this three-dive adventure, which includes refreshments and lunch. The Verde Island Drop-off can be taken to whatever depth you are qualified to dive, and this dramatic wall has something for all levels and usually stunning visibility. Shallower levels have good staghorn coral teeming with damselfish and anthias. Parts of the wall are sponge-encrusted and provide homes for beautiful brittle stars, colourful nudibranchs that appear to be dressed in ball gowns, and furled crinoids. Larger species such as tuna and jacks appear and then make off into the deep. Technical divers can make the most of the depths. Some Trimix divers have descended to 100 metres and claim the wall just gets deeper!

In 2003 the MV Almajane, a 30-metre cargo vessel, was sunk close to the resort. She now sits upright with the base of her hull resting on the sandy bottom and offers a very safe and fascinating dive with all the species common to the area found here. Sweetlips, snappers, jacks, catfish and batfish occur in large numbers. Almajane makes a great night dive.

For those who love to search for fascinating creatures, Sabang Bay, especially in the late afternoon, is the place to find Ornate Ghost Pipefish, Robust Ghost Pipefish, seamoths, octopus, Crocodilefish, lionfish and a fabulous variety of shrimps. Underwater photographers will be spoilt for choice on this dive site. Watch as an arrow crab neatly steps over soft coral or what appears to be a strawberry walking across the reef. Frilly Ornate Ghost Pipefish hover like strands of weed. Their close relatives Robust Ghost Pipefish mimic broken-off chunks of seagrass. Settle on the sea bed and watch the endless work of the shrimps as they tirelessly dig their burrows, guarded by their goby friends. Stunning examples of marine behaviour are here for you to see: Twinspot Gobbies mimic a sideways-walking crab, glassfish form ‘colonies’ that move and swirl before your eyes like action art, pretty Humbug Dasycllus dart in and out of staghorn coral and maybe you will see a Banded Sea Snake as it disappears beneath a rock in an attempt to escape from you.

DUMAGUETE

On the southern tip of the island of Negros, 500 kilometres from Manila and twenty minutes by road from Dumaguete airport is where you will find Atlantis Resort Dumaguete. Negros is the sugar cane island of the Philippines. Now there is also a thriving farming industry in Black Tiger Prawns, a delicacy much enjoyed by the Japanese.

Beneath the waves lies a whole host of diving favourites, with the House Reef and The Pier being just two super dive sites. The Pier (which can be dived any time with permission from the dive centre, due to local boat use) is a real feast for photographers. During the day there is some spectacular marine life to be seen, but at night the list grows longer and longer. Look out for a Leafy Dragonet cryptically camouflaged in the sand. Pretty yellow and black spotted pufferfish hover over the reef. Cuttlefish, hermit crabs, many species of shrimps and technicolour nudibranchs in shapes that could be alien sculptures all reveal themselves under the diver’s light. Apo Island is within its own Marine Sanctuary and fishing is allowed for the islanders’ use only. There is usually an extra fee for visiting Apo Island, which is 3-dive day trip taking about 30 minutes to reach in the fast boat. The visibility is usually excellent around this small volcanic hump in the ocean. Due to its unique marine reserve, superb coral reefs and a good reef fish population have managed to survive. Here you will find a unique ‘clownfish city’, a rare phenomenon with literally hundreds of clownfish and their anemone hosts living side by side. Soft corals and hard corals are numerous. There can be some quite strong currents at some sites making for enjoyable drift dives.

Bahura is dived at dusk because this is when those tiny technicolour Mandarinfish come out to play. Dauin has both sandy areas and a ‘true’ reef and was declared a Marine Sanctuary in 2000. The reef is divided by sandy channels, which provide a habitat for a population of wavy Garden Eels, and here one can see some good reef life including schools of Bumphead Parrotfish noshing their way across the reefs like underwater bison (and dropping their ‘waste’ coral on you if you happen to be underneath them at the time!). Schools of Yellowtail Barracuda are often located here. Another Marine Reserve protects the reef at Masaplot where a couple of schools of mackeral and snappers hover above the reef. The ‘action art’ starts when the two schools combine in a swirl of colour and silver flashes. Look out for Epaulette Sharks (a member of the Bamboo Shark group). These blotchy individuals rest on the bottom of reefs or hide amongst the staghorn coral.

ATLANTIS PUERTO GALERA RESORT

The island of Mindoro, around 160 kilometres from Manila, is where you will find Atlantis Puerto Galera Resort. The excellent service offered by the hotel and the dive centre starts as you leave Manila Airport to find your private air-conditioned vehicle waiting for you for the road transfer. On arrival at Batangas you will be transferred by air-conditioned boat for the last part of your journey, which ends in a beach landing at the reception of the resort and a cool welcome drink. All the rooms and suites are designed to offer you maximum comfort, privacy and an opportunity to relax. The en-suite rooms and suites are situated throughout the resort gardens and all have climate-controlled air-conditioning, fully stocked mini-bars, ceiling fans, solar heated hot water, cable TV with movie and sports channels, coffee and tea making facilities, wireless internet connections and DVD players. Deluxe Rooms have either a double bed or a double bed and a single bed. Coconut or Seaview Terrace Rooms have twin beds, are on the first and second floor and are more spacious and have a large balcony. (Seaview Terrace Rooms are on the second floor and have enhanced views.) The delightful Executive Suites are situated at the back of the resort garden at a raised elevation and have very large rooms, with a king bed, a living area, a refrigerator, a furnished balcony and sea views. The resort has its own swimming pool in the gardens and you can enjoy sunbathing or perhaps take a massage round the pool. The Massage Room offers a full spa service including manicures, pedicures, body scrubs and fabulous aromatherapy massage.

Toko’s Restaurant prides itself on coming up with a unique dining experience using fresh local products and flavours. A daily changing menu is offered for lunch and dinner,. with theme nights, buffets and even a lunchtime Mongolian Wok! Oven fresh bread, homemade breakfast, catch of the day, superb roasts, prime beef, aromatic and hot curries, freshly picked tropical fruits and vegetables all add up to Lonely Planet describing the restaurant as having “world class cuisine”. There is great emphasis on cleanliness in the kitchen and the kitchen itself has been specially imported from Germany and the staff trained in health and safety to avoid those stomach problems that can be encountered when Europeans visit Asia.

The Multimedia Room is equipped with a high-speed broadband connection and internet computer rental is also available. Wireless connection is available throughout the resort. The Multimedia Room also has areas for working on cameras and videos. A small shop sells local jewellery, sarongs and practical items such as sunscreen. You will find a complete range of dive equipment and computer accessories offered amongst the local art, travel books, fish ID guides and postcards.

Atlantis Dive Shop is one of only a very few dive centres in Asia with the rating of Five Star PADI Career Development Centre. They are proud to offer the highest standard of dive education (from children’s SASY and Bubblemaker programmes up to Divemaster and Instructor level), facilities, service and dive guides. They can offer support services for, and teaching in, both rebreather and technical diving. Four day boat dives, Mandarinfish dusk dives and night dives are offered daily (dusk and night dives are paid for locally), and there is a wonderful range of dive sites to choose from. Divers are encouraged to discus their diving requirements with the dive guides so that they can try to fulfil diver expectations. Just 6 divers to each dive guide, most dive sites just 10 minutes from the resort and a choice of longer day trips makes this resort an excellent choice for the keen diver. Private diving trips can be arranged. Photographers will find the superbly equipped Multimedia Suite indispensable. Here you will find multi-sockets for charging, a matted workbench with good lighting, laptop and camera storage facilities, air guns, internet facilities and CD/DVD burning facilities.

Price: from about £589 (from about £339 without diving). Includes: 7 nights full board accommodation (breakfast, lunch and dinner) on a twin/share basis in a Deluxe Room at the Atlantis Puerto Galera Resort; up to 4 boat dives daily (between 0800-1600), dive guide. Supplement for a 3-tank dive trip in the Verde Island area: from about £32. Manila Airport/Atlantis Puerto Galera Resort/Manila Airport transfers: from about £122 per person for 2 or more people; from about £218 for 1 person. Deposit: £200.

Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £20 per night.

ATLANTIS DUMAGUETE RESORT

After your arrival at Manila Airport a local resort representative will assist you with the transfer to the domestic terminal and help you check in for your flight to Dumaguete, (or take you directly to the Domestic Terminal if you are coming in from Puerto Galera). You will be met at Dumaguete airport and transferred by air-conditioned vehicle to the resort. Upon arrival at the resort you will be greeted by the friendly staff and offered a welcome drink as your bags are taken to your room for you. The resort is located on a quiet beach just outside Dumaguete, directly on the waterfront, with a seafront restaurant and bar. The atmosphere is serene and relaxed, with lots of shaded areas and seating beneath mature foliage – a true hideaway and an ideal location for a romantic holiday or a haven from the stresses of modern life. All rooms are designed to offer you maximum comfort, privacy and an opportunity to relax, but for those seeking that little extra privacy why not stay in the Honeymoon Hut? The en-suite rooms and suites are situated throughout the resort gardens. They are both ground floor and first floor, and all have climate controlled air-conditioning, fully stocked mini-bars, ceiling fans, solar heated hot water, cable TV with movie and sports channels, coffee and tea making facilities, wireless internet connections and DVD players. Deluxe Rooms have either a double bed or twin beds. The Seaview Rooms are smaller rooms right on the beach, so you can wake up to the sound of the sea if you wish. The Garden Suites are larger and more spacious, have attractive furnished balcony, and either a double bed or twin beds. The Honeymoon Hut is similar and is a detached bungalow in a quiet part of the gardens offering more privacy. The resort has its own swimming pool in the gardens and you can enjoy sunbathing or perhaps take a massage round the pool. The Massage Room has an authentic sauna imported from Finland, a Jacuzzi and offers a full spa service including manicures, pedicures, body scrubs and fabulous aromatherapy massage.

Toko’s Restaurant prides itself on coming up with a unique dining experience using fresh local products and flavours. A daily changing menu is offered for lunch and dinner,. with theme nights, buffets and even a lunchtime Mongolian Wok! Oven fresh bread, homemade breakfast, catch of the day, superb roasts, prime beef, aromatic and hot curries, freshly picked tropical fruits and vegetables all add up to Lonely Planet describing the restaurant as having “world class cuisine”. There is great emphasis on cleanliness in the kitchen and the kitchen itself has been specially imported from Germany and the staff trained in health and safety to avoid those stomach problems that can be encountered when Europeans visit Asia.

The entire resort is built within a wonderful tropical garden with many rare and indigenous plants, trees and birds. The full time gardeners are proud of their garden and keep it very well tended. Take a stroll around the resort. Admire the lotus blossoms in the fish ponds, enjoy the sweet aroma of the local flowers and relax…

The Atlantis Dive Shop at Dumaguete has all the same facilities as detailed above for Puerto Galera, with the exception of the Multimedia Suite (though plans are afoot to build one). Four day boat dives and night dives are offered daily (night dives are paid for locally). Longer, full day dive trips are available.

Price: from about £641 (from about £391 without diving). Includes: 7 nights full board accommodation (breakfast, lunch and dinner) on a twin/share basis in a Deluxe Room at the Atlantis Dumaguete Resort; up to 4 boat dives daily (between 0800-1600), including two full day dive trips, dive guide. Manila Airport/Atlantis Dumaguete Resort/Manila Airport transfers: from about £125 per person for 2 people; from about £142 for 1 person. Deposit: £200.

Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £13 per night.

FLIGHTS: Prices from about £842 to Manila. There are daily flight connections to Manila (and onwards to Dumaguete if visiting Negros). We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on routing, season, current fare levels and booking class availability. Our quote will include all taxes and fuel supplements applicable at the time of quotation, as well as our service charge. The usual airfare deposit is £300.

STOP-OVERS: These are available in Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, depending on flight routing.

COMBINATIONS: If you are travelling to Manila, you are not far from extraordinary Palau with its famous ‘Rock Islands’ and some of the most exciting diving on our planet. Yap with its famous Manta Rays and Truk with its renowned wreck-diving are not that much further. Alternatively, as you will likely be passing through Singapore or Kuala Lumpur en route, side trips to other wonderful diving areas in Southeast Asia can easily be arranged. Talk to us about the possibilities.

Green Moray Eel (Jeremy Cuff)