The Caribbean
THE SOUTHERN BAHAMAS
Sharks, dolphins, reefs and walls
Season: Year-round diving
Visibility: 30-50 metres
Water Temperature: 25-29°C
Mirrowing Flyingfish reflected (Alex Mustard)
Gazing down from an aeroplane on the fabulous cays, islands and islets of the southern Bahamas makes one realize that this island nation is only just above water in some places and only just below water in others. Ocean shades of blue, from the palest turquoise to the deepest sapphire, and sand banks and coral cays shading from vanilla to cappuccino, sparkle and twinkle in the sunlight far below. Located east and south of the Florida Keys, the Bahamas are a vast series of islands with blue holes, caves, walls and shipwrecks. Their tropical location in the Atlantic means that not only sharks of all kinds, but Humpback Whales, several species of dolphins, Spotted Eagle Rays and even Whale Sharks make their way here at various times of the year. The whole region offers an amazing variety of diving experiences in an area of more than 1,000 square miles of some of the clearest oceanic waters in the world.
The Southern Bahamian islands include the Exumas, Conception, Long Island, Stocking Island and San Salvador. A necklace chain of three hundred and fifty islands and cays makes up the Exumas, and it is on Great Exuma, at George Town, that divers will join Caribbean Explorer I. A liveaboard boat is the finest way to explore these remote islands, many of which are uninhabited.
From George Town there is a two-and-a-half hour sail to appropriately-named, string-bean-shaped, Long Island. Grouper Valleys is a stunning dive of around 15-25 metres in water that can be so clear that divers can be deceived by the depth. Because there is little coral in the area, this dive site feels more like ‘blue water’ diving and the fish life here is the main attraction, with Tiger Groupers and Graysbys hiding in the channels. Nassau Groupers and huge Jewfish can also be found here. Shark Reef is one of the most popular dives on Long Island and is an area where local divemasters have been feeding sharks for some time. Blacktip and Caribbean Reef Sharks are the most commonly sighted, but there have been occasional sightings of Bull Sharks and Scalloped Hammerheads. A school of Horse-eye Jacks often frequent the dive site and barracuda are sometimes seen, but it is the sharks that are ever-present!
From Long Island the boat may move on to Conception Island, an uninhabited reef-rimmed speck on the map with a Land and Sea Park of only 6 square miles. Above water the island is a nesting site for Green Turtles and seabirds. Underwater, large coral heads are interspersed with sand chutes, and elephant ear and barrel sponges are prolific. Schooling Horse-eye Jacks, snappers and groupers can all be found here. Keep an eye on the blue beyond as turtles and sharks cruise the area. Bull sharks have been seen infrequently at Conception, so it is worth keeping your eyes open. Coral formations commence at around 5 metres and black coral can be found as shallow as 18 metres.
From Conception it is around a three-and-a-half hour trip to San Salvador, the exposed peak of a sea mount, and there are times when the boat cannot get out this far, but when it does there is a choice of around 15-20 dive sites, depending on the weather and currents. Perhaps one of the most famous is Great Cut, where a 70-metre section of the main reef wall splintered away, creating a double drop-off. Cross the first ridge at 12 metres and you will come to the chasm between the ridges, which drops to around 50 meters. The second section of the wall dips vertically out of sight. On the threshold of the open sea, one can expect the unexpected, but more common reef fish include Bermuda Chub, Blue-stripped Grunts and Midnight Parrotfish. Double Caves are like slides that start at around 15 metres and end at 30 metres. Swim up or down the tunnels! The walls have good populations of purple tube sponges and large plate corals.
At the shallow Stingray Reef on Stocking Island, French Grunts, Queen and French Angelfish, snappers and tangs can be seen as well as some large Southern Stingrays for whom the dive site is named. There are several opportunities for macro photographers as the area is great for small wrasse and blennies peeping from rocks and crevices as well as large lobsters and crabs tucked away in rocky cracks. Stingray Reef is sometimes used as a night dive location as it is only 9-15 metres deep.
The variety of dive sites from close-up reefs to wide angle, blue water dives, walls, swim-throughs and drop-offs, along with the amazing range of marine life, including a variety of sharks, make a visit to the Southern Bahamas on Caribbean Explorer II a great choice for both beginner divers and the more experienced.
CARIBBEAN EXPLORER II
The MV Caribbean Explorer II comfortably accommodates 18 passengers in 9 staterooms, all of which have private bathrooms and some of which have queen-sized beds. Three Master Staterooms on the main deck have one queen-sized bed and a private bathroom. One Twin Stateroom on the main deck has upper and lower single beds and a private bathroom. Two Owner’s Staterooms on the lower deck have two single beds or one queen-sized bed and a private bathroom, whilst the two Twin Staterooms on the lower deck have a lower double bed, a single upper bed and a private bathroom. There is one lower deck Double Stateroom with a double bed and a private bathroom. Main deck staterooms have a window, lower deck staterooms have a porthole. The semi-enclosed, air-conditioned salon on the upper deck includes dining tables, TV, VCR, CD/DVD, video library, light table and lounge area. A large sundeck with lounge chairs is aft of the main salon. The vessel’s boutique is located on the main deck and the photo/video lab is on the lower deck. The dive deck is equipped with a toilet, individual gear lockers, camera table with low pressure air hose, recharging station, air and Nitrox filling station, tank racks, and a separate fresh water rinse for both scuba and underwater camera equipment. There are two sets of stairs accessing the dive platform, where two in-water ladders hang for easy access to and from the water. The Caribbean Explorer II is also equipped with a satellite telephone for outgoing calls worldwide. Nitrox tanks and certification are offered. Dives are done from the vessel itself, taking advantage of the easy-access dive platform or from the side gates, which are about 1.5 metres above the sea.
Aboard the Caribbean Explorer II, evening meals usually consist of lots of fresh vegetables, rice, pasta, chicken, beef, turkey, pork and fish. Breakfast is the usual fare of eggs, bacon, pancakes, French toast, muffins and fresh fruits. Lunches vary from soup and sandwiches to burgers, pasta, assorted salads and quiche. Homemade baked breads, cookies and brownies are offered between dives. Almost everyone who travels on Caribbean Explorer II agrees that the food is some of the best to be found on any liveaboard!
Caribbean Explorer II operates 7 nights cruises in the Southern Bahamas from April to September, departing every Saturday from the Exuma Services Marina in George Town on Greater Exuma.
There may be opportunities to make landings and enjoy land tours (subject to local conditions), so you are not at sea for the entire week. Caribbean Explorer II is an ideal choice for those who want to try out a liveaboard for the first time. Sailing times are relatively short with the run from Conception to San Salvador being amongst the longest sailing at around three-and-a-half hours. In certain weather conditions it may not be possible to reach San Salvador.
Price: from about £910. Includes: 7 nights cruise on Caribbean Explorer II on a twin/share basis with full board (except dinner on Friday evening), including soft drinks and alcoholic drinks; 5 full days of diving (up to 4 or 5 dives daily, including night dives) plus one or two dives on the last day. Reductions for non-divers and extra weeks. A port tax of US$85 and a fuel surcharge of US$160 (subject to change) are not included in the package price and will be collected on board. Dinner on the last night is not included, but guests will go as a group to one of the local restaurants. If your log book shows that you have not dived for over a year you will have to take a short scuba review course on the first day which costs US$75, payable on board. Airport transfers are not included; taxis are freely available. Deposit: £350.
Single Occupancy Supplement: 50% of the cruise cost (but you can avoid paying the supplement if you are willing to share a cabin).
FLIGHTS: Prices from about £979 to George Town. There are daily flight connections to George Town via Nassau. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on routing, season, current fare levels and booking class availability. Our quote will include all taxes and fuel supplements applicable at the time of quotation, as well as our service charge. The usual airfare deposit is £300.
COMBINATIONS: If you are travelling to the Bahamas via Miami, you can combine a visit to the islands with any other Caribbean destination. Talk to us about the possibilities.
Dolphin on the move (Sheila Pearce)
