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Reef hooks come in handy on the currentswept reefs of Palaus southerly dive sites Mark Beaman

Chandelier Cave by Shannon Conway

Ocean Hunter 1

The garden at Palau Pacific Resort

Palau Aggressor (Aggressor Fleet)

Palau is one of those places where it sheer joy to spend the whole time at sea! (Martin Edge)

Palau sunset (Martin Edge)

An aerial view of Palau Pacific Resort (Palau Pacific Resort)

The Western Pacific

PALAU, MICRONESIA

A thrilling classic of the diving world

Palau can offer some stunning shark encounters. (Shannon Conway)

East of the Philippines, in the west of the Pacific, over 2,000 islands lie sprinkled across a vast expanse of sparkling azure tropical ocean. Known as Micronesia, this huge territory consists of less than 1% of dry land! Micronesia is now recognized as one of the top dive destinations in the world. The archipelago encompasses more than 3,000,000 square miles of ocean, reaching over 6 miles deep in some parts of the Marianas Trench.

The islands of Micronesia are rich in life, both on land and especially in the surrounding seas. Fertile volcanic soil, warm tropical sunshine and abundant amounts of rain mean that these forest-clad islands are filled with exotic flowers throughout the year. Some of the islands are edged with sandy beaches, others are so densely covered with rainforest that the trees reach the shoreline. Fringing mangrove swamps form nature’s own nurseries where most of the rich diversity of marine creatures start their hazardous lives in comparative safety before moving to the coral reefs or to the very deep waters that surround the islands. With some of the most exciting marine life in the world, it is no wonder that Micronesia’s diving is legendary!

The Republic of Palau (or Belau as it is known to its inhabitants) is the most western island group of Micronesia and is faunistically its richest part. The main town, on the island of Koror, is connected to the largest island, Babeldaob (or Babelthuap), by a bridge, while to the southwest is an archipelago of small islands, including the extraordinarily beautiful, strangely-shaped Rock Islands that emerge from the turquoise blue coral sea. The islands are thought to have been settled as long ago as 1000 BC, probably by people from what is now eastern Indonesia, but as with most places in Micronesia, Palau only really came to the attention of the outside world during World War II, when there were fierce battles for control of the heavily fortified southern islands of Angaur and Peleliu.

The southern part of Palau consists of an elongated atoll containing an archipelago of some 340 islands dotted across 400 square miles of ocean! Known as the ‘Rock Islands’, this maze of jungle-covered, mushroom-shaped outcrops is surrounded by a beautiful fringing reef offering seemingly endless drop-offs, coral gardens, caves, swim-throughs, blue holes, marine lakes and wartime wrecks. Inside the lagoon the glistening ocean hides a white and sandy sea bottom with areas of patch reef. Outside the lagoon is an encircling barrier reef where drop-offs fall vertically to 300 metres or more. Palau was voted number one in 8 out of 10 categories in a diving magazine poll – favourite drift dive, favourite wall dive, favourite photographic site... the list goes on and on! What draws divers to Palau from all over the world are the current-swept, southerly dive sites and the chance to mingle with vast schools of fish, large numbers of patrolling sharks, Manta Rays, turtles, impressive schools of jacks and visiting pelagics. Although Palau has a reputation for strong currents, more often than not the currents are quite gentle and many dives are slow drifts along the reef walls, giving divers and photographers the opportunity to study the vibrantly lively and fascinating scene that is played before them. But if you like excitement, there are several dive sites where, when the tide is running, the dive is a truly wild ride!

For real excitement try Blue Corner, one of the most famous dives in the world! Here a chunk of rock projects into very deep water and fast-moving tidal currents and cool upwellings surge across the reef bringing nutrient-rich water and many, many fish (and often Manta Rays, too)! The dive usually begins with a descent to around 25 metres before moving towards the projecting reef corner. Hook on as near to the corner as possible to be part of the incredible action. The current can blow across your body like a howling gale in the worst English weather, but once secured by a reef hook, divers become ‘invisible’ to the fish. Suddenly the whole reef starts swarming around you. Thousands of Black Snappers and Horse-eye Jacks are hurled around as the current hits the reef (ever seen fish looked shocked?). Schools of Giant Trevally swim backwards and forwards round the reef point and Grey Reef Sharks appear from above, below and behind the divers, ignoring their presence and patrolling the reef. Manta Rays in ‘trains’ of 4 or 5 sometimes pass through this area, and sometimes a Grey Reef Shark pops out and bites a wing, though with one upward surge of its ‘wing’ the shark is thrust several metres into the water column by the mighty manta! At the signal from the divemaster to unhook and drift back from the reef edge there is bound to be a wave of disappointment as one sadly leaves the rush of reef activity behind.

Clothed in colourful soft corals, gorgonians and whip corals, the Big Drop Off is an underwater photographer’s dream. The absolutely vertical wall begins at only about two metres below the surface. An abundance of invertebrates and a multitude of tropical fish display their wonderful shapes and colours against the background of the sheer wall. Schools of fusiliers patrol the reef and turtles, unicornfish and smart grey and yellow Onespot Snappers are always around, whilst Grey Reef Sharks and occasionally Blue Marlin and hammerheads can be seen.

Drop down through one of the four vertical shafts at around 4 metres into Blue Holes. All four shafts join to form into an enormous chasm containing staggeringly clear water. Look up to see the entrance holes above forming a spectacular pattern of intense blue which makes a great subject for those with wide angle lenses. Visit the entrance to the ‘Temple of Doom’ (only 2 metres wide and a metre high) where 3 Japanese divers died after silting up the entrance. There are so many creatures to see inside the cave. Brilliant flashing red Disco Clams flash electric blue lights like an electrical discharge and bubble corals hold Orang-utan Crabs. Once out of the chasm, divers find themselves on the wall that runs towards Blue Corner where patrolling Grey Reef Sharks and the odd White-tip Reef Shark mingle with vast schools of snappers and fusiliers.

Perhaps it is sufficient to say that Jacques Cousteau considered Ngemelis Drop Off to be the best wall dive in the world. The wall drops to over 300 metres and is covered in a multitude of sea fans, soft corals, whip corals, sponges and anemones. Here the reds, sunburst yellows and glorious pinks provide a colourful backdrop for numerous fish and brightly-coloured nudibranchs and other small creatures.

A relatively little known fact about Palau is that possibly 50 ships were sunk in the lagoon during one of the fiercest battles in the Western Pacific during World War II. Warships and supply ships litter the ocean floor like broken and abandoned toys. Out of the turbulent horror of war came a new and peaceful creation. Now-silent guns, twisted metal and other artefacts of war were frozen in time to be re-born as the strata on which corals and sea creatures thrive. Never again will history repeat its awful destruction and the wrecks now belong to the sea. The wreck of the Japanese freighter Teshio Maru lies on its side in 20 metres of water. The hull, which is still fairly intact, can be penetrated safely. There are still bits and pieces to be found here, particularly shards of old crockery.

Facing into the Pacific Ocean, the very beautiful Coral Gardens, famous for its abundance of busy schooling small fish and intricate coral formations, offers a chance to encounter Whale Sharks as well as Manta Rays and huge magnificent tuna.

Close to Koror, the capital of Palau, is Chandelier Cave, which is situated under the island of Ngarol. The entrance is a 3-metres wide hole in the side of the rock island. The spectacularly colourful Mandarinfish is resident here in the reef’s crevices. Once inside the cave the water is absolutely clear. Water which has filtered through the island into the cave system has formed a distinctive halocline layer that divides a crystal-clear freshwater lake from the saline waters of the ocean. Three easily-dived chambers are adorned with massive stalactites and stalagmites. Surface in each chamber and breathe fresh air! Shine your light round the spacious ‘rooms’ with their pink marble walls and ceilings, then descend and follow the light from the blue ‘window’ back to the cave entrance.

Millions of years ago a geological upheaval isolated a section of the marine lagoon in the centre of Mecharchar Island, creating a land-locked lake. A ten minutes trek through the jungle brings divers to Jellyfish Lake, surrounded by lush jungle greenery and mangroves. Trapped in this inland ‘sea’, two species of jellyfish have evolved along their own pathway, lost their stings and become a distinct subspecies compared to those still found in the open lagoon. Clouds of jellyfish move around the lake following the sun’s rays in a kind of ‘jellyfish soup’. Don mask, fins and snorkel, jump into the lake and it will not be long before you encounter the jellyfish. But be careful to swim very slowly as the jellyfish are so delicate that one swift thrust from your fins can smash them to shreds.

WEST PLAZA DESEKEL HOTEL & FISH ‘N FINS

The small West Plaza Desekel Hotel offers comfortable, straightforward accommodation for those who want to dive Palau’s incredible reefs but who prefer a much less expensive option than staying at the luxurious Palau Pacific Resort or another of Palau’s top-end hotels. Located about a 20-minutes taxi ride from the airport and close to Koror’s main shopping district, but in a quiet side-street, this simple but pleasant hotel offers spacious air-conditioned rooms with colour television and refrigerator. Most rooms have a terrace. The hotel does not have a restaurant, but there are a number of restaurants and bars nearby, including an Indian restaurant which is widely considered one of Koror’s best places to dine. The West Plaza Desekel Hotel is also situated conveniently close to the Fish ’n Fins dive centre. The hotel’s situation close to the dive centre means that divers can stroll down there in about 5-10 minutes and eat breakfast before the start of the diving day, or Fish ‘n Fins will transfer you by vehicle if you prefer.

The most established dive centre on the island, Fish ‘n Fins is famous for its wonderful service to divers. Situated a 5-minutes walk from the centre of town, Fish ‘n Fins prides itself on taking clients to some of the most exciting dive sites in Palau including many wreck sites. Fish ‘n Fins is one of the few locally owned and operated dive shops in Palau. There is the Barracuda bar and cafe at the dive centre, so one can take breakfast or other meals there, or socialize into the evening. The daily two-tank dive leaves the dock at about 0830 returning in the afternoon. A third dive of the day and night dives are available locally. Boats are equipped with marine radio and have shaded areas for protection against the sun. Drinks and snacks are provided on the boat. Most boats have a capacity of 6 or 8 divers to ensure that small groups of divers are grouped for similar skills an interests wherever possible. Nitrox and Fifteen litre tanks are available.

Price: from about £98 per night (from about £23 per night without diving). Includes: room-only accommodation on a twin/share basis at the West Plaza Desekel Hotel; 2 boat dives per day, lunch and drinks on board, dive guide; Nitrox fills up to 32%. A Koror State Diving Permit fee of US$35 (subject to change, valid for 10 days) is payable locally to the dive centre. If you dive at Peleliu, a Peleliu State Diving Permit fee of US$20 (subject to change) is also payable. Non-divers are welcome to join their diving partners on the dive boats at an extra cost. Airport transfers: from about £11 return. Deposit: £200.

Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £23 per night.

Note: Packages are available for most other Palau hotels also.

SHARK WEEK SPECIAL

Every year, between February and April, hundreds of Grey Reef Sharks migrate to the waters of Palau. Fish ‘n Fins dive centre offers a special package of shark diving from 8-15 March 2009. Evening seminars and international guest speakers including David Doubilet and Rodney Fox will be giving presentations. Participants will be key in the collection of data for the Micronesian Shark Foundation, which is invaluable in the study of migration and behavioural patterns of the local sharks.

Price: from about £671 staying at the West Plaza Desekel Hotel; from about £1153 staying at the Palau Pacific Resort. Includes: 7 nights accommodation at West Plaza Desekel Hotel or in a Garden View Room at the Palau Pacific Resort; breakfast at Fish ‘n Fins if staying at the West Plaza Desekel, breakfast at the hotel if staying at Palau Pacific Resort; 5 days of dedicated shark diving (2 tanks per day) including lunch; Gala night, Shark Week tee-shirt and DVD of the week’s diving. A Koror State Diving Permit fee of US$35 (subject to change, valid for 10 days) is payable locally to the dive centre. If you dive at Peleliu, a Peleliu State Diving Permit fee of US$20 (subject to change) is also payable. Deposit: £300.

Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £161 at the West Plaza Desekel Hotel; from about £648 at the Palau Pacific Resort.

PALAU PACIFIC RESORT & SPLASH (OR FISH & FINS)

The luxurious Palau Pacific Resort, one of the finest hotels in the Pacific region, is surrounded by the crystal blue water of the Pacific Ocean. Set in 64 acres of verdant tropical gardens that are often filled with brilliant tropical flowers, the hotel has its own private white sandy beach. Huge hammocks hanging in the gardens invite you to laze away the day. The freshwater swimming pool and outdoor heated Jacuzzi are just a few strides from the impressive hotel lobby. The tennis courts are equipped for night play, there is a fully equipped fitness centre and there are also two outdoor heated whirlpool jacuzzis. In the elegant Meduu Ribtal dining room at the water’s edge one can try Palauan delicacies or European cuisine. Enjoy casual al fresco dining and the best seafood in the region at the Coconut Terrace or sip a cocktail in the evening breeze at the Mesekui beach bar. Each of the 160 guest rooms and suites has air-conditioning, refrigerator and mini-bar as well as its own private veranda. Garden View rooms have one queen or twin beds and overlook the gardens or the large salt water fishpond. Ocean View rooms offer the same facilities but have views over the Pacific Ocean. Luxury Junior Suites and Luxury Suites are wonderfully situated just behind the beautiful beach.

Splash dive centre is a PADI five star centre and retail dive shop. It caters almost exclusively for clients of the Palau Pacific Resort and is situated by the foot of the pier at the resort. They offer boat and shore diving, and have two large dive boats complete with photo tables, freshwater showers and dive platforms. Photo offers a full service underwater photo and video centre, including instruction and rentals. There is a 2-tank dive trip every day. Additional day boat dives and night boat dives can be arranged locally for an additional charge. Shore diving is available day or night for a modest charge, payable locally.

Note: If you prefer to have your dive arrangements made through Fish ‘n Fins, Palau’s top dive centre, we can arrange this for you. They will collect you from the resort and take you back again after your diving day is over. Highly recommended for anyone who wants a more specialized dive operator, especially underwater photographers.

Price: from about £129 per night (from about £69 per night without diving). Includes: room-only accommodation on a twin/share basis in a Garden View Room at the Palau Pacific Resort; 2 boat dives per day, lunch on board, dive guide. A Koror State Diving Permit fee of US$35 (subject to change, valid for 10 days) is payable locally to the dive centre. If you dive at Peleliu, a Peleliu State Diving Permit fee of US$20 (subject to change) is also payable. Airport transfers: from about £13 return. Deposit: £300.

Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £69 per night.

OCEAN HUNTER I & OCEAN HUNTER III

Owned, designed and operated by the highly regarded and well established Fish ‘n Fins, Ocean Hunter I is a very comfortable and stable 19 metre steel-hulled motor sailing vessel designed to accommodate just 6 divers in 3 cabins. Cabins 1 & 2 each have two bunk beds, with the lower bed being much wider than a standard single. Cabin 3 is more spacious, having a king-sized bed and a single bed side by side. All cabins have private shower/WC and are air-conditioned. All cabins are on the main deck along with the lounge and dining area, where the chef prides himself on providing fresh, low-fat gourmet cuisine. There is an entertainment centre with LCD TV, DVD, VCR and stereo and a scientific library in the lounge area along with a well-stocked bar, so you can enjoy a drink while you relax after the diving is over for the day. The dive deck is also on the main deck, so it is an easy walk from your cabin or from the lounge to the dive platform. The vessel is designed for professional underwater photography with a large working area and more than 60 electrical outlets (110 volts and 220 volts). Nitrox is available on board and Nitrox certification can be undertaken.

The 29-metre Ocean Hunter III represents 25 years of knowledge in the liveaboard industry and was designed by divers for divers. Ocean Hunter III has 8 air-conditioned cabins, all with private shower and WC, to accommodate a maximum of 16 divers. Six cabins are on the lower deck and the 2 Master Staterooms are on the upper deck. Cabins 1, 2 and 5 are Standard Cabins and have a queen-sized lower bed and a single upper bed. Cabins 3, 4 and 6 are Deluxe Cabins and have a king-sized bed and a single bed. The Master Staterooms have a king-sized bed and a single bed and are more spacious. The dining room is spacious and comfortable, and there is also a salon area featuring an entertainment centre with LCD TV, DVD, VCR. There is a stereo and a scientific library in the lounge area, along with an espresso coffee maker and an icemaker, along with a well-stocked bar so that you can enjoy a drink when the diving day is over. Relax in the sun or watch the fabulous sunsets from the Sun Deck on the upper deck. The Sun Deck also has a bar and a Jacuzzi. Ocean Hunter III is designed for professional underwater photography, TV and film production, with a large working area and more than 60 electrical outlets (110 volts and 220 volts). Powerful film and video editing facilities are available. Nitrox, Trimix and Rebreather support are available, along with Nitrox certification. Ocean Hunter III has satellite communication on board for e-mail and telephone.

The Ocean Hunters offer ‘unlimited diving and unlimited bottom time’. You can dive whenever you wish. With only 6 (Ocean Hunter I) or 16 (Ocean Hunter III) divers as a maximum on any sailing, there is freedom and flexibility to create diving profiles to suit your specific needs. Personal attention, uncrowded dive sites and easy water entry are what makes the Ocean Hunters the choice for many divers (plus fabulous food, which many divers say is the best on any liveaboard!).

After giving a briefing the divemaster will enter the water with you on every dive. Night dives are offered every night. All levels of divers, from experienced to beginner, are welcome on the Ocean Hunters. Most dives are done from the main boat, with only a few dives from the chaseboat. Because of their small size and shallow draft, the Ocean Hunters will usually take you directly above the dive site so you can enter the water directly from the dive platform. Some of Ocean Hunters’ dive sites are inaccessible to day boats or the bigger liveaboards. When your dive is over, you can climb back onboard and take a warm, freshwater shower on the dive deck before enjoying a delicious snack such as home-baked cake or a fresh fruit smoothie. On the Ocean Hunters, where you live is where you dive.

A typical day on the Ocean Hunters would start at 0630 with coffee and continental breakfast followed by the fist dive of the day at 0700. A full breakfast is served at 0830 followed by the second dive. After a snack, the third dive follows before lunch. The fourth dive is offered in the afternoon and dusk and night dives are offered before dinner is served at 2015.

Ocean Hunter I and Ocean Hunter III offer a series of 7 and 10 nights cruises throughout the year departing from the Fish ‘n Fins dock in Koror.

Cruise itinerary (7 nights cruise): On your first day you will be collected from your hotel at 1030 and transported to the boat for lunch on board. In the afternoon you will take the first dive at Helmet Wreck, a shallow dive on a WWII Japanese ship where you can check out your gear and weights. In the afternoon the boat heads across the lagoon to German Channel or Big Drop Off. On days 2, 3 and 4 diving is done in the area of German Channel, Big Drop Off, New Drop Off, Blue Holes, German Wall, Blue Corner, Turtle Cove and Ngedebus Wall. On day 5 the boat moves south to the Peleliu area for dives that may include Peleliu Wall, Peleliu Corner, Peleliu Express, Orange Wall and Peleliu Cut. A land tour of Peleliu Island (a major WWII battlefield) will be offered. On day 6 the boat moves to the Ngemelis area for another dive before making its way to Jellyfish lake, after which the boat visits the Ulong Island area. On day 7 there will be a dive in the Ulong area and then, as the boat starts to return to Koror, you will visit a wreck site and then Chandelier Cave. If time permits there may be chance to do a Mandarinfish dive before returning to the dock in the late afternoon. On the day of departure breakfast is served at 0700 before disembarkation at 0800. 10 nights cruises follow the same itinerary for days 1-4. Days 5 and 6 are spent in the Peleliu area and day 7 sees the boat visit Blue Hotel and the Ngemelis area. Day 8 is spent in the area of Ngerechong Island and also visits Jellyfish Lake before moving to Ulong Channel and Ulong Wall. On day 10 the boat moves towards Koror and takes in a couple of Japanese wrecks including the Jake Seaplane where possible, before the third dive at Chandelier Cave followed by a return to dock in the late afternoon. On the day of departure breakfast is served at 0700 before disembarkation at 0800. All itineraries are subject to local weather conditions, tides and currents.

Price: from about £1714 for a 7 nights cruise, from about £2446 for a 10 nights cruise. Includes: Transfers between local hotels and the boat; 7 or 10 nights cruise on Ocean Hunter I or Ocean Hunter II on a twin/share basis with full board; 7 or 10 days of diving (up to 5 dives per day, including night dives). A cabin tax of US$35 and Koror and Peleliu State Dive Permit fees of US$55 (subject to change) are not included in the package price and will be collected on board. The Koror state permit is valid for 10 days, the Peleliu permit for 14 days. Deposit: £1200 (7 nights cruise); £1700 (10 nights cruise).

Single Occupancy Supplement: 90% of the cruise cost (but you can avoid paying the supplement if you are willing to share a cabin).

PALAU AGGRESSOR

The Palau Aggressor is a very comfortable 33-metre catamaran that carries a maximum of 18 passengers in nine twin-berth staterooms. Each of the eight Deluxe Staterooms has one double bed and one single bed, private head and shower, air-conditioning with individual climate controls and a large window. The Double Stateroom has one double bed, private head and shower, and air-conditioning with individual climate controls. Six crew members make sure that your diving holiday runs smoothly. Between dives guests can relax on the sundeck (either in or out of the shade) or try the amazing hot tub! The salon has an excellent collection of books, videos and music to enjoy.

The dive deck has racks for hanging dive suits. A large three-tiered camera table has plenty of space for camera assembly or preparation and separate rinse tanks are kept for cameras and videos. The photography department provides rental cameras and accessories as well as the services of the photo pro if you require a model or expert advice. A range of PADI and NAUI speciality courses are offered including Nitrox and Rebreather training and facilities. A full range of diving equipment is available for rental by pre-arrangement.

Because of the currents in Palau, many of the dives are done as drifts and for this the amazing Palau Aggressor ‘II-and-a-half’ is deployed. This 10-metre dynamo of a boat can cruise at 50 knots! Ladders on either side assist with water exits and a canopy keeps divers well-shaded in the tropical Micronesian sun. Divers board this little boat on the dive deck, where she stays between dives attached to a hydraulic crane, and are then lowered into the water. After each dive she is raised once more to the dive deck and divers merely step off ‘II-and-a-half’ and onto 'II’. Divers’ gear is loaded on to ‘II-and-a-half’ at the beginning of the cruise and stays there for the duration of the trip!

For after the dive there is a freshwater shower and clean towels awaiting, as well as the chef’s freshly prepared snacks to appease the after-dive hunger pangs! Delicious barbecues, American and local dishes are served; breads, biscuits and baked snacks come strait from the oven. Most meals are served buffet-style.

Palau Aggressor operates out of the harbour at NECO ‘M’ Dock/Commercial Dock, Koror for 7 nights cruises, departing every Sunday throughout the year.

Price: from about £1521. Includes: airport transfers; 7 nights cruise on Palau Aggressor on a twin/share basis with full board (except dinner on the last night), including non-alcoholic and local alcoholic beverages; 5 full days of diving (up to 4 or 5 dives per day, including night dives) plus one or two dives on the last day. Reductions for divers 65 or over, non-divers and extra weeks. A cabin tax of US$35 and Koror and Peleliu State Dive Permit fees of US$55 (subject to change) are not included in the package price and will be collected on board. (The dive permits are valid for 14 days, so you do not need to pay again if you have already obtained the permits while shore-based diving or intend to dive while shore-based after the cruise.) Dinner on the last night is not included, but guests will be provided with guidance about good local restaurants. Deposit: £750.

Single Occupancy Supplement: 50% of the cruise cost (but you can avoid paying the supplement if you are willing to share a cabin).

FLIGHTS: Prices from about £1192 to Koror. It is only possible to fly all the way through to Koror in Palau, via Manila or Honolulu, on certain days of the week. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on routing, season, current fare levels and booking class availability. Our quote will include all taxes and fuel supplements applicable at the time of quotation, as well as our service charge. The usual airfare deposit is £300.

STOP-OVERS: These are available in Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Manila, Honolulu or Los Angeles, depending on flight routing.

COMBINATIONS: If you are going all the way to Palau, why not take in Yap and its incredible Manta Rays or Truk and its remarkable wrecks? You will have paid for most of the airfare already! Alternatively, you could stop off to dive in the Philippines. Talk to us about the possibilities.