South-East Asia
SIPADAN, MABUL & KAPALAI, BORNEO
Big fish, turtles and ‘macro critters’ – the perfect combination
Season: Year-round diving
Visibility: 15-40 metres
Water Temperature: 27-30°C
Special Offer: TURN THE CLOCK BACK PRICES Pay 2008 prices for holidays in 2009! Sipadan Water Village: Prices from £1143 for 7 nights, full board including diving and transfers.
Green Turtle (Shannon Conway)
“No other place on this planet has more marine life than this island.”
Worldwide Fund for Nature (on Sipadan)
“I have seen other places like Sipadan 45 years ago but now no more. Now we have found again an untouched piece of art.”
Jacques Cousteau
SIPADAN
Twenty miles off the east coast of Sabah in East Malaysia is Sipadan island. Miles away from civilization, alone in an expanse of clear blue sea, lies this tiny, green and gold, coral island. So small that it is rarely marked on any map, you can walk around it in 30 minutes! Sipadan is in reality the very tip of a precipitous sea mountain which rises steeply and majestically through the crystal waters of the Sulawesi Sea from a depth of over two thousand metres. Whilst most Malaysian islands rest on the shallow seabed of the continental shelf, it is its awe-inspiring location which gives Sipadan the unique characteristics which combine to provide a habitat for both reef and pelagic species. The most seasoned traveller and most widely experienced diver will still be overwhelmed by the magnificence and variety of life in the waters of Sipadan.
Sipadan is home to many thousands of turtles. Both Green and Hawksbill Turtles are found commonly in Sipadan’s waters and are a frequent sight on many dives: indeed the ‘turtle experience’ at Sipadan is sometimes overwhelming! From July to September is the time that the females come ashore to lay their eggs. Fragile and tiny, but perfectly formed, the newly hatched turtles scramble out of the sand and scuttle off to start their hazardous journey to the open sea. Of course there will be many turtle encounters underwater. In fact, hardly a dive will go by on Sipadan at the height of the season without the diver seeing many of these beautiful and increasingly rare creatures, perhaps resting lazily on rocky shelves or swimming gently by. Very close encounters of the turtle kind are frequent on Sipadan during most of the year!
Draping gorgonians, gigantic sea fans, sponges of every imaginable shape and design, encrusting and soft corals, and countless varieties of sea-squirts form a glorious garden of colour providing life for innumerable multi-coloured, iridescent reef fish, some only a few millimetres long, others over two metres in length. A precipitous reef wall, Sipadan’s most dramatic feature, supports schools of snappers, bright surgeonfish, bizarre, long-nosed unicornfish, Bigeye Trevallys, which hunt in huge schools, and swarms of swiftly moving fusiliers. Huge, buffalo-like Bumphead Parrotfish lunge at the coral, biting off large pieces as they feed.
Divers at Sipadan regularly encounter awesome and massive schools of Blackfin Barracuda which circle and swirl like an underwater tornado. Never far away, other large pelagic species cruise the offshore waters. White-tipped Reef Sharks constantly patrol the reef or laze in groups on sandy shelves. Scalloped Hammerheads, huge tuna and the occasional Manta Ray catch the sun’s rays as they glide by in deeper waters. At night the reef community appears to change: the octopus emerges from its lair to feed, and cuttlefish, some up to a metre in length, remarkably change colour to match their habitat.
It is the sheer number and amazing variety of fish that makes Sipadan so special. The spectacular reef walls, with some flat reef crests to explore at shallower levels, provide the majority of dive sites. Sometimes light currents, which may change at different levels, assist the diver, allowing for delightfully relaxed diving with plenty of time to search the fascinating crevices whilst larger ocean-going fish cruise by on the seaward side.
Close to the pier, just a few metres from the shore, the pale aquamarine waters covering the shallow reefs and sandy seabed change abruptly into an intense shade of dark blue marking the beginning of The Drop Off. Here a spectacular six hundred metre reef wall plunges almost vertically downwards. A dive here is sure to reward the diver with massive schools of jacks, fusiliers, batfish and Yellowfin Goatfish. A parade of huge Napoleon Wrasse, ugly and seemingly deformed Bumphead Parrotfish, Amberjacks, turtles and White-tipped Reef Sharks cruise by undisturbed by the diver’s presence. A solitary Great Barracuda frequently hovers at the crest of the reef, watching and waiting.
On the shallow reefs, where waves and coral meet, huge buttresses and majestic gullies provide homes for many thousands of species, including anemones with jewel-like colours, starfish and brittle stars, tiny, well-armoured shrimps that wave their antennae to attract fish to their cleaning stations, lobsters and crabs of all shapes and sizes, oysters with zigzag openings to their shells, clams and many other molluscs. The so-called orchids of the sea, the nudibranchs, some with filigree frills of gills, search and graze the coral. The beautiful and highly coloured lionfish with its feather-like fins and venomous spines is a spectacular and common sight. Schools of large and impressive Oriental and Harlequin Sweetlips hover near the crest of the reef as if to welcome the ascending diver returning from the depths. Coral Groupers, wrasse of many kinds, delightful schools of fairy basslets, funny little anemonefish, several varieties of triggerfish and a host of other species swirl, dance and surge around or stand guard beneath the wide tables of coral.
Impressive and weird formations of limestone make a fascinating background in flooded Turtle Cavern. After entering the dark and eerie chamber, divers may first hear, and then see, the orange-gold squirrelfish which are noted for the unusual and characteristic sound that they make. (Sometimes this sound is so loud that it can be heard above the water!) Permanently guarding the entrance lies a large and solitary pufferfish. Deep within the cave lie the remains of turtles unable to find their way out before their last breath of air was used up. Divers must possess a Cave Diving Qualification if they wish to dive Turtle Cavern.
When the morning sun’s rays filter into the water, bringing light to the reef off Barracuda Point, a large school of more than 60 Bumphead Parrotfish often assembles. Below, where the blue shades darker, Grey Reef Sharks, Leopard Sharks and Scalloped Hammerheads regularly cruise by. Slumbering peacefully on a sandy shelf are groups of up to 10 White-tipped Reef Sharks, while a colony of pretty little Garden Eels shyly peep out of their holes. Frequently here, or at South Point, a school of up to 1,000 Blackfin Barracudas circle and swirl in an amazing throng. The lucky diver may enter this whirlpool of giant fish and hover in the eye of this living hurricane.
MABUL AND KAPALAI
Mabul island and Kapalai are situated only a 15 minutes boat ride from the world famous Sipadan island and yet provides a completely contrasting type of diving and far better accommodation than was available on Sipadan before overnight stays were stopped at the end of 2004. Diving these small islands will appeal especially to divers seeking the fantastic variety of smaller marine life that can be found in these waters. Unlike Sipadan, around Mabul and Kapalai there are no drop-offs, there are no swirling hurricanes of jacks or barracudas and it is unlikely that you will encounter the sharks and turtles that make Sipadan diving so exciting. There is still much evidence of past dynamite fishing and many reefs bear witness to this destructive method. So why do people want to dive around Mabul or Kapalai when Sipadan may, at first sight, be the more obvious choice? Quite simply, around both Mabul and Kapalai there are a truly remarkable variety of small and strange creatures to see. The unique habitat has provided a wonderful place for fish and invertebrates to live without the pressure from the predators that are commonly associated with pristine reefs. This, coupled with the shallow water, and divemasters so dedicated to demonstrating their ability to find the unusual that they undertake a month’s training and orientation to acquaint them with the life forms around the islands before they start leading dives, has made Mabul and Kapalai the place for dedicated fishwatchers, those with a wider interest in marine biology and for the dedicated underwater photographer with the macro lens!
Dive sites around these two islands are usually at depths of between 3-20 metres, which permits unusually long dive times and a unique opportunity to study the ecology of the smaller inhabitants of the reef. The sheer variety of macro subjects is truly amazing, with both fish and invertebrate life in abundance. Many juveniles, often so very different in colour and also in shape from their adult parents, also occur in these shallow warm waters.
Paradise 1, which may be described as Mabul’s ‘House Sand Patch’, is home to a school of squid, several species of rays and a variety of gobies, shrimps and very brightly-coloured fish. Blue-spotted Fantail Rays, Blue-spotted Mask-Rays and Leopard Whiprays make this sand flat their home. Paradise ll is home to the elusive and stunningly beautiful Mandarinfish. No longer than a few centimetres, this must be one of the most colourful yet difficult to photograph species as it nips and darts about under the staghorn coral.
Ribbon Valley, as its name would suggest, is populated by Ribbon Eels that appear to snarl mildly at one from their tiny lairs. Both the gorgeous blue adults, with their gaping yellow mouths and the more difficult-to-find juveniles in elegant black will pose happily while the underwater photographer lines up his shot.
At Kapalai (an island about 2 miles from Mabul) entire sections of reef have disappeared due to the effects of dynamite fishing in the past. However, out of the devastation arises some hope: a series of exceptional and unusual creatures have managed to adapt to this new environment and, without competition from larger predators, have colonized the area. Painted Frogfish occur in many different shades and colours, perfectly matching their background and offering a real challenge to those attempting to see them. Ornate Ghost Pipefish can be found here in their elegant wedding dress-like white form, amongst others. Smart black-and-white striped Humbug Dascyllus hover over areas of surviving staghorn coral.
Mabul and Kapalai are reached by taking a short flight from Kota Kinabalu to Tawau on the east coast of Sabah and then a road transfer of about one and a half hours to the small port town of Semporna. From there it is about 45 minutes by boat to either island.
BORNEO DIVERS’ MABUL DIVE RESORT
Borneo Divers’ Mabul Dive Resort occupies a beautiful stretch of white sandy beach with easy access to the water for effortless diving. Originally built to act as a second base for Borneo Divers’ famous Sipadan Resort during the period when resorts were allowed to operate on Sipadan itself, Mabul Dive Resort is an excellent base for those who wish to dive around Sipadan and as well as Mabul Island itself and neighbouring Kapalai.
The resort is set in a quiet and uncrowded location, so that when you have finished your diving you can relax in peace. As the dive sites are quite close (Sipadan is a 15 minutes boat ride) you will usually return to the resort between dives so you can spend most of your surface interval relaxing on your private veranda. You can also treat yourself to a massage with the resort masseur, who will visit you at your bungalow.
The wooden constructed, air-conditioned, semi-detached chalets are built in local style and rooms have either two twin beds or one double bed and an en-suite bathroom with modern showers and toilets (including plenty of hot water!). Each room also has individually controlled air-conditioning, a ceiling fan, hair dryer, table with table lamp and a comfortable sofa where divers can spend some time checking out their identification guides and the photographers can study their camera manuals! There is free wireless internet connection available, so you can email your photographs to friends in the UK!
The private beach in front of the resort is a great place for swimming, snorkeling or for sunbathing, though a stroll around the island through the cool and gently swaying palm trees is very tempting. The local people are very welcoming and there is always a healthy supply of children ready to pose for your holiday snaps. There is also the added luxury of a swimming pool area for taking a refreshing dip, pampering yourself in the jacuzzi or for lounging around with a good book. There is a pool bar serving a range of refreshing drinks.
The dining hall is central to the resort and also houses the ‘front desk’, shop and entertainment centre. Borneo Divers are almost as proud of their superb meals as they are of their diving management. The chef offers Malaysian, ‘Asian’, Japanese, Chinese and ‘Western’ dishes. Try one of the ‘steamboat’ dinners or barbecue specials. Breakfast is cooked to order each day. In the evenings you can enjoy a beer from the bar, listen to the live band, watch a video or enjoy watching the Japanese indulge in one of their favourite pastimes – Karaoke. Don’t worry if this is not for you: you can always escape to your private veranda for peace and quiet!
The dive station is central to the diving activities and just a few steps from the beach. The dive staff are there to carry your gear and set up the tanks for you on the boat. Gear rental is available and there are separate rinse tanks for cameras and videos.
All divers must complete a check out dive, which is usually a boat dive at Mabul. Boats leave for offshore dive sites three times each day, with two dives in the morning and one dive in the afternoon. The dive sites at Mabul and Kapalai are all within a five or ten minutes boat ride, while those at Sipadan are about 15 minutes away(diving at Sipadan is subject to permits being available and prevailing weather conditions on any given day). Unlimited shore diving is available at the jetty house reef. Extra boat dives can be arranged locally at an additional fee, as can night dives. The diving management is of an extremely high quality, with dive staff carrying tanks and BCDs to and from the boat. Simply take your mask, fins and snorkel. The rest will be waiting for you! On return from the dive, your gear will be safely stowed away leaving you free to take a shower, eat a snack and relax.
Price: from about £107 per night (from about £85 per night without diving). Includes: road/boat transfers between Tawau and Mabul; full board accommodation (breakfast, lunch and dinner), including tea, coffee and some soft drinks, on a twin/share basis in a Standard Room at Borneo Divers’ Mabul Dive Resort; 3 boat dives daily and unlimited shore diving on jetty house reef, dive guide on boat dives. In addition, a Sipadan Marine Park diving permit (currently MYR40, about £7, per day dived at Sipadan) is payable locally. Permits are currently issued the previous day and are subject to a quota, so may not be available every day. Deposit: 200.
Single Occupancy Supplement: 50% of the applicable diver package price.
SIPADAN WATER VILLAGE RESORT
Now that staying on Sipadan itself is no longer possible, this deluxe dive resort on Mabul is the luxury option for those wanting to dive Sipadan and of course Mabul and Kapalai.
The lovely ‘floating’ cottages of Sipadan Water Village Resort are perched on stilts above the sea. Each individual cottage is built from local wood, with the floor of the cottage just one metre above the sea. As you walk out on to the veranda and hear the water lapping, you can watch the fish dart through a carpet of seaweed dotted with starfish in a peaceful underwater garden. Fish-watch from the balcony in the first light of the day, or the last red-orange light of sunset!
Each spacious fan-cooled cottage is fully equipped with en-suite shower room (with hot and cold water) and living area with tea/coffee making facilities, refrigerator and hairdryer. Standard Cottages have a choice of two twin beds or one double bed. Outside each chalet is a private veranda, providing a wonderfully peaceful spot to relax and mull over Mabul’s fascinating diving. Junior Cottages are similar but semi-detached. Deluxe cottages have a bath tub and a minibar. Grand Deluxe Cottages are similar to Deluxe cottages, but are larger and have a private spa pool.
A separate restaurant and bar offers three buffet-style meals each day featuring mainly Asian-style food. Water, tea and coffee along with fruit juice are available during the day and wine and beer are available for purchase after the day’s diving is complete. Bottled water is provided in all rooms. Hot snacks, such as freshly baked cakes or banana fritters, are served after dives.
Boats leave for offshore dive sites three times each day, with two dives in the morning and one dive scheduled for the afternoon. The dive sites at Mabul and Kapalai are all within a five or ten minutes boat ride, while those at Sipadan are about 15 minutes away (diving at Sipadan is subject to permits being available and prevailing weather conditions on any given day). Shore diving is available on the house reef with permission from the duty divemaster from 0600-1800 hours. Guided night shore diving is available, for an additional charge, subject to minimum numbers. The diving management is of an extremely high quality, with dive staff carrying tanks and BCDs to and from the boat. Simply take your mask, fins and snorkel. The rest will be waiting for you! On return from the dive, your gear will be safely stowed away leaving you to take a fresh water shower on the dive deck. A constant supply of fresh towels are available at the dive centre (apart from the room towels in your bungalow, which are replaced daily).
Price: from about £580 (from about £413 without diving) for the first 4 nights, then from about £113 per night (from about £58 per night without diving). Includes: road/boat transfers between Tawau and Mabul; 4 nights full board accommodation (breakfast, lunch and dinner), including tea, coffee and some soft drinks, on a twin/share basis at Sipadan Water Village Resort in a Junior Cottage; 3 days of diving (3 boat dives daily and house reef shore diving), dive guide on boat dives. In addition, a Sipadan Marine Park diving permit (currently MYR40, about £7, per day dived at Sipadan) is payable locally. Permits are currently issued the previous day and are subject to a quota, so may not be available every day. Deposit: £200.
Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £19 per night.
SIPADAN-KAPALAI DIVE RESORT
It may seem a little strange to see a village seemingly floating on the sea miles from anywhere, for that is how Sipadan-Kapalai Dive Resort appears as you approach, for here is a resort, just a few minutes boat ride from Sipadan, sitting on sturdy stilts above the shallow sandbanks of the Ligitan Reefs. This airy, comfortable and sunny water village, with no land in sight, comprises a series of individual wooden bungalows all with private bathrooms (with full-sized bath and plenty of hot water) and large private balconies linked by wooden walkways to the central Kapalai Lodge and dive centre. The accommodation is simple, but well designed, and offers privacy and comfort. Each bungalow has two beds and is fan-cooled. Large windows and louvered patio doors open out on to a veranda, with total privacy, that is equipped with sun chairs. And of course every bungalow and every patio has extensive sea views across the ocean! This may be an unusual resort, but think of the joys of staying in the tropics with no mosquitoes and no flies! Imagine gazing out of one’s window with the sparkling ocean all around and stunning views of the sea life swarming just below the window!
The resort has broadband internet access, satellite phone and ample supplies of freshwater which are brought in from the mainland. Extensive walkways link the bungalows and Kapalai Lodge, the central dining area where one can relax with a cool beer and check out the images captured that day. Meals are served in this terraced, open building which has a very large west-facing sundeck. Enjoy a cool beer while you chat to other divers against the background of a fabulous, fiery-red tropical sunset, or watch huge thunderheads build over the distant mainland.
Three boat dives are offered each day, of which the two morning dives are usually at Sipadan. The boats return for lunch and afternoon dives are taken at Mabul or Kapalai. Unlimited shore diving tanks are available for dives in front of the resort. Night dives are included for those who have a buddy and who are qualified to Advanced level or above.
All divers must complete a check-out dive, which is usually a shallow, local boat dive. The dive sites at Mabul and Kapalai are all within a five or ten minutes boat ride, while those at Sipadan are about 15 minutes away (diving at Sipadan is subject to permits being available and prevailing weather conditions on any given day). The diving management and service is of an extremely high quality, with dive staff carrying tanks and BCDs to and from the boat. Simply take your mask, fins and snorkel. The rest will be waiting for you! On return from the dive, your gear will be safely stowed away leaving you free to take a shower, eat a snack and relax.
Price: from about £506 (from about £324 without diving) for the first 4 nights, then reduced rates per night, falling to from about £116 per night (from about £74 per night without diving) from the 7th night. Includes: road/boat transfers between Tawau and Kapalai; full board accommodation (breakfast, lunch and dinner), including tea, coffee and some soft drinks, on a twin/share basis at Sipadan-Kapalai Dive Resort; 3 boat dives daily), dive guide; additional unlimited ‘shore dives’ in front of the resort; Sipadan marine park permits. Deposit: £200.
Single Occupancy Supplement: 50% of the applicable diver package price.
FLIGHTS: Prices from about £903 to Tawau. There are daily flight connections to Tawau via Kota Kinabalu. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on routing, season, current fare levels and booking class availability. Our quote will include all taxes and fuel supplements applicable at the time of quotation, as well as our service charge. The usual airfare deposit is £300.
STOP-OVERS: These are available in Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, depending on flight routing.
COMBINATIONS: It is very easy to extend your holiday in Borneo and visit famous Layang Layang island with its superb ‘open-ocean’ diving. Alternatively, why not visit Sandakan region and stay on Lankayan island, or see Borneo’s fantastic Orang-utans and Proboscis Monkeys, or even visit the cool uplands of Mount Kinabalu (see the end of our Lankayan holiday description for full details of these add-ons). Talk to us about the possibilities.
Chevron Barracuda (Gary Clark)
