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Nudibranch, Bunaken Marine Park, Manado (Martyn Guess)

Cottage interior at Santika Seaside Resort

Dinner on teh edge of the Bunaken Marine Park at Santika Seaside

Cottage at Minahassa Lagoon

South-East Asia

MANADO, SULAWESI

Spectacular diving off Indonesia's starfish island

Anemonefish, Bunaken Marine Park, Manado (Martyn Guess)

Set in the middle of the Indonesian archipelago, and astride the equator, the starfish-shaped island of Sulawesi hosts a rich marine environment. Something like 3,000 species of fish populate the Indonesian islands and seemingly a high proportion of them live in the waters that surround Sulawesi!

Close to the northern tip of the island is the bustling town of Manado, easily reached by direct flight from Singapore. Only a few miles away, within an easy boat ride, is the Bunaken-Manado Tua Marine Park, an area of great underwater beauty. Here you may see varieties of fish species and invertebrates that have rarely been encountered before – the local dive guides frequently spot new species for the area or even sometimes undescribed species. Schooling species and colourful reef fish are all to be found in abundance, and with luck you may encounter a pod of Short-finned Pilot Whales or dolphins whilst travelling to the dive sites.

The Bunaken-Manado Tua Marine Park boasts one of the richest varieties of marine life in the world. Coral reefs surround each of the five islands within the reserve, beginning with a flat reef crest at about 3 metres and then sloping down steeply or dropping off vertically for hundreds of metres. The walls are crowded with hard and soft corals, barrel sponges, sea fans, whip corals and red and orange encrusting sponges. Amidst all this is an abundance of brightly coloured tunicates and a profusion of colourful feather stars perched on upstanding corals and sea fans. Vast schools of smartly coloured Pyramid Butterflyfish and masses of anthias dance around the reef edge and the upper part of the wall. Banded Sea Snakes are frequently seen winding their way through the crevices in the reef. White-tip Reef Sharks, Napoleon Wrasse, Spotted Eagle Rays and Bumphead Parrotfish are but a few of the larger fish regularly seen. Leaf Scorpionfish, the weird Giant Frogfish, blennies and gobies, and Blue Ribbon Eels (including the yellow female and black and yellow juvenile forms) are less easy to spot but are not uncommon.

There are at least 20 recognized dive sites, mostly concentrated off the south and west coasts of Bunaken Island. Most dives are slow drifts along the reef wall but some sites have an occasional stronger current offering a more exciting drift, while others are interesting ‘muck dives’ on areas of silty sand or coral rubble.

What better dive site to start with than Mandolin Point on the western side of Bunaken? A wide flat reef top only a metre or so deep is bounded by a steep drop-off where you can explore at your own chosen depth. Luxuriant coral growth on the wall provides a suitable background for an abundance of purple, yellow and white tunicates that sit like ceramic ornaments on the ledges and encrusting sponges. White-tip Reef Sharks, barracudas, sea snakes and turtles are often spotted here.

At Fukui Point the stepped profile of the reef is encrusted with an amazing ‘field’ of stony corals, including table, elkhorn, staghorn, lace, brain and cabbage, covering the gently sloping ‘hillside’. Carefully search amongst the ‘arms’ of the colourful crinoids and you are may be rewarded with a sight of an Ornate Ghost Pipefish. These remarkably camouflaged small fish (well-beloved of the underwater photographer) float head down within or close to the arms of the crinoid and at first glance may appear like a detached piece of the crinoid’s ‘arms’. The dive guides will be sure to point out to you the giant clams. Four giant clams with iridescent blue, green, purple, brown and black mantles lie in a regimented formation. Their slowly opening and closing siphons offer an amazing opportunity to gaze right inside the animal! The sloping reef gradually gives way to the deeps and at this point large schools of Teira Batfish glint and shimmer silver and gold in the sunlight while barracuda and schools of Midnight and Black Snappers drift over the reef. A curious Napoleon Wrasse is often attracted to the boat anchorage to gaze warily at the strangers from beyond his realm.

At the marvellous Engine Point (named because a brand-new boat engine was lost overboard just off here in 100 metres!) the entire dive can be completed within the top 12 metres. A pair of Blue Ribbon Eels live in adjacent holes, but occasionally pose for visitors by ‘snarling’ and gaping out of the same hole. Goldspeck Jawfish (fascinating fish who incubate their young within their mouths) can be seen warily peeping from their borrow and Mantis Shrimps, either hiding in crevices or scuttling frantically around before zooming under a rock, are a common sight here. Beautiful and brightly-coloured nudibranchs can be found in abundance and the sharp-eyed dive guides may be able to find you a strange and almost perfectly camouflaged Robust Ghost Pipefish floating like a fragment of dead turtle grass.

A night dive at Black Rock will certainly rate as spectacular, even by those who normally shun the idea of night diving! Coral bommies litter this shallow sandy shelf and the jewels of the ocean are certainly here to see. Slowly wandering sea urchins with their small ‘families’ of fish and shrimps ‘walk’ over the sand in a glow of red and black when spotlighted. Perhaps a hermit crab whose shell is decorated with swaying anemones may crawl past. Deep crimson ‘sea hares’, stroll along the sand. Peep into a crevice or under a rocky shelf to find the small elegant Banded Pipefish or perhaps a surprise if a Black-edged Conger Eel is hunting there! Why not use the safety stop to wriggle around and produce your own light show from the luminescent micro-organisms?!

The superb Bangka Archipelago dive sites can be thoroughly explored either by liveaboard boat or by staying on Gangga Island. For details please see our Gangga, Bangka & Sangihe holiday description. Those staying at Santika Seaside Resort can enjoy some of these dive sites by taking a special trip. The journey takes about one hour by Thalassa’s swift speedboat and is well-worth taking!

For those wishing to take a break from diving, Northeast Sulawesi offers some fascinating attractions. A short car drive away is the volcano Mahawu. A trek up a well trodden path through lush thick vegetation brings you to the top of the crater. Walk around the perimeter and look down on the seething turquoise cauldron. Drive alongside rich green rice fields by Lake Tondano where local fish farmers and their families live on the water in timber shacks balanced on stilts, or make a trip through small villages alive with local life. Enjoy the spectacular mountain scenery or explore the tropical rain forest at Tangkoko in search of the Spectral Tarsier, the smallest carnivorous monkey in the world, Black Macaques (four tribes of these wonderful primates live in the forest here and are easily seen) numerous bird species that are only to be found on Sulawesi and huge iridescent butterflies.

SANTIKA SEASIDE RESORT & THALASSA DIVE CENTRE

Built on a low hill above the shoreline, the attractive Santika Seaside Resort looks out across the sea to the offshore islands, including Bunaken and the conical Manado Tua. The resort aims to balance the high standards required by their western guests with the flavour of the east and local ambiance. There are 101 very well-appointed guest rooms with en-suite facilities and air-conditioning. Most rooms are situated in the main hotel, but there are also 28 cottages scattered about the grounds. All the rooms and cottages are decorated in modern style, are air-conditioned and have TV, mini bar and tea and coffee making facilities. Deluxe rooms overlook the gorgeous tropical gardens, have a large double bed or twin beds and en suite bathroom with shower. Premiere Rooms have a stunning view across the sea to Manado Tua and have a bath and shower in the bathroom. The Garden Bungalows offer especially spacious and well-equipped accommodation with a king-sized bed or large twin beds. They have a spacious, well-equipped bathroom. Separated by a low screen from the main bedroom is a small seating area with sofa and low table. A small private terrace with chairs offers the opportunity to sit outside. The hotel has a lovely swimming pool with pool-side bar. The impressive public areas are especially pleasant, being built in local style and open to any breezes blowing in from the sea.

There is a choice of two restaurants serving local Indonesian and International cuisine. The Big Tree Restaurant offers great food, a choice of drinks and a stunning view across the sea to the islands beyond. The Maleo Restaurant menu comprises mostly Indonesian dishes and often has some live musical entertainment. The Pari bar, in the main lobby area and the Lumba-Lumba bar at the swimming pool both serves an excellent variety of cocktails as well as fresh fruit drinks. But personal service is paramount at the Santika Seaside Resort, so if you would like a private barbecue in the gardens it will be arranged for you. Nothing is too much trouble.

The Amaryllis Spa is next to the swimming pool and offers a full range of massages and treatments. Choose between relaxing inside the spa or outside in the private gardens while you feel the benefit of the treatments creeping over your body. The masseuses are all professionally trained to offer the highest service.

The extensive range of facilities, which include day trips and activities, offered at the Santika Seaside Resort, along with the comfortable and safe environment, makes this an ideal choice for groups or couples with non-divers amongst them. For once you will be able to enjoy your diving knowing that your partner or friends are having an equally great holiday!

The Thalassa Dive Centre at the hotel is a PADI 5 star centre and is run by Simone Gerittson, an enthusiastic Dutch expatriate. Thalassa has all the latest equipment and their fast aluminium dive boats or powerfully driven wooden boats will whisk you out to dive sites at Bunaken in a mere 10-20 minutes! Situated close to the hotel’s swimming pool, the dive centre is connected by a long walk-way to the boat pier and your dive gear will be transported for you. At the end of the day you can take a hot shower at the dive centre and enjoy complimentary coffee and snacks in the pleasant reception area. On some evenings lively entertainment is provided in Thalassa’s bar. There is 24 hour internet service, a digital downloading and CD burning facility, dedicated charging room and photo-equipment handling room, which is air-conditioned, and a magnificent ‘care and carry’ service for your equipment. At the end of your trip Thalassa will provide a log print out of all your dives at the end of your stay.

Thalassa’s standard diving programme includes two dives at different sites and a picnic lunch taken either on the boat or on a beach, but up to 5 dives are offered each day. Thalassa is used to catering for keen underwater photographers and the dive guides here are remarkably skilful at finding rare or unusual marine ‘critters’ to fascinate and excite their clients. Thalassa divemasters often ask you to make up a wish list of what you would like to see that is smaller than 1 metre and indigenous to the area. Because you will only dive in small groups (4 divers to 1 guide) there is every chance that you will have crossed off everything, or almost everything, on your wish list before you leave. Trips to Bangka Island and to Lembeh Strait can be arranged locally for an additional charge. Night dives can also be arranged locally on Tuesdays and Fridays. Dives boats leave the dock each day at 0800, 1000, 1400, 1600 and 1800. Nitrox is available at an extra charge.

Price: from about £20 per night. Includes: airport transfers; room and breakfast accommodation on a twin/share basis in a Deluxe Room at Santika Seaside Resort. Various dive packages are available; for example a 10 dives package costs from about £227. A Bunaken Marine Park fee of US$15 (subject to change) is payable locally. Deposit: £200.

Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £15 per night.

TASIK RIA RESORT & ECO DIVERS

Set amongst tall coconut palms and landscaped gardens, the lovely Tasik Ria Resort looks out towards Manado Tua Island. This intimate resort has only 34 rooms and is situated by the sea at Tanawangko Bay, about 33 kilometres, or 45 minutes by car, from Manado’s international airport. Pool-View Rooms are situated around the larger, freeform swimming pool and have twin or double beds. All rooms are air-conditioned and have en-suite bathrooms, mini bar, cable TV, IDD telephones and safety deposit boxes. There is a choice of one king bed or two single beds. The Sea-View Cottages are tastefully landscaped and situated along the seafront. Their more secluded situation makes them ideal for honeymooners or those who are more romantically inclined! Sea-View Cottages offer the same facilities as the Pool-View Rooms but have some extra touches, such as hairdryers and bathrobes to complement their lovely situation. The hotel has a lovely, large, freshwater swimming pool with pool-side bar, which serves tropical drinks and snacks throughout the day. After the day’s diving is done why not try a cocktail at the jetty bar whilst watching the stunning sunset – a truly relaxing way to end a great day! The Bunaken Restaurant offers casual, all day dining featuring both European and Indonesian dishes. Usually, there will be an Indonesian Buffet one night of the week and a barbecue on the beach (or on the restaurant terrace if weather does not permit under-the-stars dining) on another evening.

Matana Spa is situated in beautiful tropical gardens. Services offered include a full range of massage and reflexology therapies and beauty treatments. There is a steam room and whirlpool bath. Once the treatments are complete you will be able to relax by the lily pond and enjoy delicious fruit juices made from locally-grown fruit.

Jim and Cary Yanny run Eco Divers both here at Tasik Ria Resort and at Kungkungan Bay Resort. The high quality purpose-built dive boats have all the facilities one would expect of a top dive resort. Aquatica, Nautica and Tropica have all been re-fitted to a very high standard and provide a very high level of service and comfort. Each boat has very comfortable seating, generous personal storage and generous storage space for cameras. A covered salon area means that one can be out for a full day of diving and still enjoy some time to relax between dives. The boats have fully operational lavatories (much appreciated, particularly by female divers!). All guides are PADI Divemasters or Instructors. The guest to guide ratio is 6:1, so whatever your level of experience or ability, you can feel you will be well looked after. Each boat has seating on the dive deck, two dive ladders, DAN oxygen and first aid kits, GPS, cell phone, radio and life jackets. There is a comfortable dining salon (lunches are taken on board), two freshwater showers, fully fitted environmental lavatory (what luxury for a dive boat!), two camera rinse tanks, camera table, video/lamp charging rack, kitchen, drinking water and large sundeck, with shaded area. Trips go daily to the Bunaken Marine Park and special trips to Lembeh Strait and Bangka Island are arranged at an additional charge, payable locally. Night dives can be booked locally and a full range of PADI courses are offered. Photography seminars and camera rental are available. Eco Divers’ divemasters will look after your every need, from sharing their local knowledge to organising your gear, leaving you free to relax and enjoy some of the world’s best diving.

The diving day with Eco Divers includes three boat dives, with lunch taken on board, so you can enjoy a full day exploring all that the Bunaken Marine Park has to offer, in comfort and safety. Great diving, superb diving management, very comfortable accommodation, a relaxed and friendly environment in a lovely tropical setting – what more could you want?

For non-diving partners, or for divers on their day off, why not take a trip to the Minahasa Highlands or the Tangkoko Rainforest nature reserve, try the thrill of white water rafting, relax with a cup of local coffee and a slice of coconut pie or rejuvenate tired body and mind with a massage at the spa. All these can be arranged for you.

Price: from about £290 (from about £153 without diving) for the first 4 nights, then from about £84 per night (from about £38 per night without diving). Includes: full board (breakfast, lunch and dinner) on a twin/share basis in a Pool-View Room at Tasik Ria Resort; 4 days of diving (3 boat dives daily), dive guide. A Bunaken Marine Park fee of €15 (subject to change) is payable locally. Airport transfers: from about £8 return. Deposit: £200.

Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £23 per night.

KIMA BAJO RESORT & SPA, & ECO DIVERS

The small, luxurious and romantic Kima Bajo Resort & Spa nestles amongst the gently sloping coconut groves that overlook tranquil Wari Bay and the Bunaken Marine Park. Just 25 minutes from Manado airport, the resort offers superb service and aims to provide every comfort a traveller could wish for. This is a resort that caters for divers searching for world-class diving, snorkelers who want to see fascinating fish and coral species in abundance, and non-divers who can relax round the pool (from where there are exceptional views of Bunaken Island and Manado Tua island) or take one of the resort’s ‘soft adventures’ (which include white water rafting, hiking and horse riding) into the Minahasa Highlands.

The accommodation includes nineteen Bunga Villas, each with a sunken outdoor bath and shower, twelve spacious Longhouse Rooms and an exclusive Grand Villa Suite with its own private swimming pool. Longhouse Rooms are air-conditioned and have one king-sized bed or twin beds with en suite bathrooms and fabulous tropical garden views. Other facilities include mini-bar, telephone, safety deposit box, tea and coffee making facilities, hair dryer and exclusive toiletries. Sprinkled throughout the lush grounds of the resort are the Bunga Villas, which have garden or sea views. These air-conditioned rooms have the same facilities as the Longhouse Rooms but also have an outdoor sunken bath and shower and a private balcony. The Grand Villa Suite has two exclusive air-conditioned suites with satellite TV, a private swimming pool and a covered sun deck. The main suite has a super king-sized bed, an outdoor sunken bath and shower plus an indoor bathroom and shower, a private balcony and entrance. The adjoining suite has twin beds, a private entrance and a bathroom and shower. The Grand Villa Suite has the same additional facilities as the Longhouse Rooms and Bunga Villas.

When there is time to relax, guests can enjoy the stunning sea-view swimming pool, or the sun deck which stretches out across the sea. An essential part of the holiday is to enjoy the views across the sea, which are especially beautiful at sunset.

The Nibong Bar and Restaurant offer a choice of dishes from both international and local menus. A few steps down from the restaurant is the fabulous sun deck and private beach. Can there be a more romantic setting than a table for two set just for you on the beach with the stars of Indonesia twinkling above? Irresistible!

The Mayana Spa is a very special place with several massage rooms, hydrotherapy villa and a ‘couples cove’ with a sunken hydro jet bath. Treatments are derived from Indonesian herbs and conventional aromatherapy essential oils. From invigorating massages to luxurious spa treatments, there is something to please everybody.

The well-known and respected Eco Divers have added Kima Bajo to their repetoire of dive centres and now manage the PADI 5 Star Centre. Their purpose-built boats are in traditional style with double outboard engines. These comfortable boats have sundeck, camera rinse tanks, WC and shaded salon. Each boat takes a maximum of 8 guests, with dive groups limited to 4 divers per guide. Snorkelers and non-divers are always welcome on the boats. A camera storage facility and individual lockers are available at the jetty so it is not necessary to carry gear back to the rooms. The daily programme starts with a two-tank morning dive departing at 0800 and returning around 1300. After en enjoyable lunch the boat departs from the pier at 1500, returning around 1700. Night dives, special trips to Lembeh Strait and PADI dive courses can be arranged locally at additional cost. Nitrox is also available for an additional charge.

Price: from about £391 (from about £268 without diving) for the first 4 nights, then from about £99 per night (from about £67 per night without diving). Includes: airport transfers; full board accommodation (breakfast, lunch and dinner) on a twin/share basis in a Longhouse Room at Kima Bajo Resort & Spa; 3 days of diving (3 boat dives daily), dive guide. There is a slight reduction if you only want 2 dives per diving day. A Bunaken Marine Park fee of €15 (subject to change) is payable locally. Deposit: £200.

Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £15 per night.

MINAHASA LAGOON

Opened in August 2003, the luxurious and elegant Minahasa Lagoon is situated in extensive grounds just a 45-minute drive away from Manado Airport. The cottages, hand-built from wood imported from the Moluccas, are built in traditional architectural style. Each spacious Cottage is fully air-conditioned with a view of the sea from the privates balcony. Beach-front Cottages are right at the front of the resort, by the beach. All rooms feature en-suite bathrooms. Most cottages have one large bed and two twin beds located within a smaller room off the main bedroom. The resort has two restaurants: the Beach Restaurant and the Jungle Restaurant. The Beach Restaurant and Bar serves Italian food. The Jungle Restaurant, situated higher up the hill and amidst the rainforest, has lovely views across the lagoon and serves Indonesian food. The owners of the resort have worked hard to make sure that the resort has as little impact on the environment as possible, whilst offering uniquely comfortable and luxurious accommodation with modern facilities. Telephone and internet services are available in each cottage.

The well-equipped dive centre has 2 comfortable dive boats. 2 boat dives are offered daily as standard. A third daily boat dive may be arranged locally for an extra charge. Special boat trips to Lembeh Straits and Bangka Island, or night dives, can be arranged on request at an additional charge. Nitrox is also available for an additional charge.

Price: from about £89 per night. Includes: full board accommodation (breakfast, lunch and dinner) on a twin/share basis in a Cottage at Minahasa Lagoon. Various dive packages are available: for example, a 12 dives package costs from about £341. A Bunaken Marine Park fee of €15 (subject to change) is payable locally. Airport transfers are included if staying 7 nights or more, otherwise they cost €15 one way, payable locally. Deposit: £200.

Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £32 per night.

PARADISE DANCER & NORTH SULAWESI AGGRESSOR

Both these liveaboards, which sail out of Lembeh Strait and also visit Bangka Island and other remote dive sites, spend some time at Bunaken Marine Park near Manado. For full details, please see our Gangga, Bangka & Sangihe holiday description.

FLIGHTS: Prices from about £811 to Manado. There are daily flight connections to Manado (but the quickest and least expensive routings are not every day). We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on routing, season, current fare levels and booking class availability. Our quote will include all taxes and fuel supplements applicable at the time of quotation, as well as our service charge. The usual airfare deposit is £300.

STOP-OVERS: These are available in Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta or Denpasar, depending on flight routing.

COMBINATIONS: Why not combine an exploration of the Manado region with a stay at the fabulous Lembeh Strait, situated on the south side of the northern ‘starfish arm’ of Sulawesi and world famous for its unusual creatures and especially its ‘macro life’. The cost of staying at the famous Kungkungan Bay Resort or at Lembeh Resort can be found in the following Lembeh Strait holiday description. Alternatively, why not visit Gangga and Bangka islands with their wonderful marine life, including extraordinary soft coral gardens. As you will be passing through Singapore or Kuala Lumpur en route, side trips to any of the many famous diving areas in Southeast Asia can also be arranged. Talk to us about the possibilities.

Batfish, Bunaken Marine Park, Manado (Martyn Guess)