The Eastern Pacific
OCOTAL BEACH RESORT, COSTA RICA
Sharks, rays and whales on the volcanic western coast
Season: May to December
Visibility: 10-30 metres
Water Temperature: 22-30°C
Manta Ray (Alex Mustard)
The plankton-rich waters of the eastern Pacific are home to the evocative-sounding ‘Cat and Bat’ islands of Costa Rica. The Catalina Islands are located in the Golfo Papagayo (Parrot Gulf) off north-west Costa Rica, approximately 14 miles from Ocotal Beach. To the north lie the Bat Islands. The Catalina Islands and the Bat Islands are emerald volcanic pinnacles rising above the waves, and below they serve as cleaning stations for sharks. They can offer some truly stunning encounters with large pelagic life, and visits to these islands are undoubtedly the highlight of any dive trip to Ocotal. The currents moving in from the open Pacific bring an abundance of plankton, making the region a prime location for sharks, rays and whales, as well as larger groups of schooling and hunting fish. Among the delights that can be found here are Manta Rays, stingrays and Spotted Eagle Rays, and large schools of snappers, as well as Amberjacks and Jewfish. Whale Sharks are sighted on occasion, as are Devil Rays (Mobulas), Short-finned Pilot Whales, False Killer Whales, Orcas, Spinner Dolphins and Humpback Whales. What a wish list! May is the prime season for Whale Sharks at Ocotal, with some of these gentle giants measuring up to 18 meters long! Shark species that one is likely to encounter include Bull Shark and White-tip Reef Shark, and even the occasional Tiger Shark visits the area.
A forty-five minute boat ride from the resort are the Catalina Islands. Here, among the volcanic valleys, is Manta Ray Pass which channels the current surging in from the open ocean and often brings with it giant Pacific Manta Rays. Another favourite location is The Wall, where the bottom slopes to around 30 metres. At 13 meters lies a sandy channel, Shark Alley, where a group of White-tip Reef Sharks often seek some peace and quiet for a rest. Here you will pick up a gentle current to drift into another volcanic valley at around 20 meters where there have been sightings of up to 2500 Cownose Rays!
The Bat Islands are a National Marine Park. It can take up to one hour and forty minutes to reach these islands where you will dive what is perhaps the best known site in the area, Big Scare. This site drops off to around 40 meters but anywhere between 15 and 30 meters you might encounter the 20 strong Bull Shark family that make Big Scare their home (now you know why it is called ‘Big Scare’!). Schools of Rainbow Runners, Pompanos, Wahoos and Horse-eye Jacks often frequent this spot too. Escorting you on your ride out to and from the Bat Islands can be pods of playful Bottle-nosed and Spinner Dolphins, and at some times of year you could well come across Humpback Whales. When Mother Nature delivers her prizes she genuinely does it ‘Big Time’ at ‘Cat and Bat’.
Closer to the mainland coast are a host of other local favourites. Punta Gorda is a shallow dive at a mere 7 meters that allows plenty of bottom time to explore the nursery and to seek out the frogfish and scorpionfish among the rocks. Both Green and Hawksbill Turtles can pass through here, as well as Spotted Eagle Rays and beautiful Golden Rays. Los Meros, another shallow site with extended bottom time, is home to spotted Green Pufferfish and Guineafowl Pufferfish, as well as Porcupinefish and a number of colourful nudibranchs. Punta Argentina, a 10 minute ride away in the Pelona Islands, is home to a pair of frogfish. The gentle drift dive Tranquilo carries you gently along at a depth of 20 meters and offers a good chance of stingray sightings and yet more White-tip Reef Sharks.
During the months of January to April, visiting the marine park is restricted due to weather conditions. During this time, strong winds from come from the north making Papagayo Gulf a less favourable place for pleasant diving. While there are plenty of excellent dive sites suited to divers of all levels of experience close to Ocotal, the more distant dive sites at the Catalina Islands and at the Bat Islands are suited to the more experienced diver due to the stronger currents and surge that can occur in this area.
OCOTAL BEACH RESORT
On the edge of Costa Rica’s rolling northern Pacific coast, beside the volcanic sands of Ocotal Beach, lies Ocotal Beach Resort. A five minute drive from the small fishing village of Playa del Coco, Ocotal Beach Resort enjoys beautiful, panoramic ocean views in a comfortable and modern setting. The resort has been the recipient of the Costa Rican government’s Ecological Blue Flag award for ten years in a row! What is more, Ocotal has also been awarded the Sustainable Tourism Certification for its dedication to the preservation of the marine life in the surrounding area. The peaceful beach is one third of a mile long and has limited road access, thus making it a secluded spot and an excellent place for snorkeling or just lying back and relaxing.
All rooms are equipped with en-suite bathrooms, air conditioning, a ceiling fan, CD player, wireless internet access, cable TV, telephone, coffee maker and best of all, a private terrace or balcony with ocean view and a hammock! Upon arrival, fresh flowers will be placed in your room to welcome you to the resort and an evening turn-down service adds a great touch to this pleasant sanctuary.
Beachfront Standard Rooms are a mere nine meters from the beach. Panoramic View Standard Rooms are the closest rooms to the pool and Jacuzzi and enjoy, perhaps, the best views over the Gulf of Papagayo. The twelve newly-refurbished Bungalow Junior Suites are perched on a cliff overlooking Papagayo Gulf and offer a little extra privacy away from the rest of the rooms. Each bungalow has its own designated parking space and every two bungalows share a plunge pool. Five Suites each have a living room, fridge and a Jacuzzi. Ocean Suites are beachfront and have a king bed and their own dining and living area with fridge and private balcony. Garden Suites have two queen beds.
Guests at Ocotal are treated to the cooking of Hugo Avelleneda. Hugo trained at France’s Cordon Bleu school of cookery, and his gastronomic creations are available in both the restaurant and the pool-side K-Lamar Ranch Bistro. Here you can eat a light snack and indulge in a cocktail whilst relaxing in or by the palm-fringed beachside pool. The restaurant, Roca Bruja, is perched on a cliff top over looking the beach and offers beautiful 270 degree views of the Pacific Ocean. Within walking distance of the resort and situated in an old converted farmhouse is Father Rooster Bar and Grill where beach front views mix with low-key nightlife.
The in-house PADI 5-star dive centre is only a few short steps from your accommodation. Each morning, the dive boat departs for a two-tank dive at 0830 and afternoon boat and shore dives depart at 1330. Longer range trips to the Catalina or the Bat Islands can be provided for a supplement, payable locally, provided a minimum of 4 divers want to go. Night dives are available on request at an additional charge. Nitrox is available at an additional charge. The five 10-metre Ocotal dive boats can each hold up to 10 divers and all have a ladder for an easy water exit as well as a dive platform for easy entry. The boats also have a shaded area, a fresh water shower and a marine head. A separate fresh water tank is available for cameras. Water, soft drinks, biscuits and fruits are always readily available on the dive boat. Each day the Ocotal staff will carry and load your dive gear onto the boat and at the end of each diving day they will rinse and store it for you. You need never touch your equipment for your entire stay if you do not want to!
Non-diving facilities include kayaking, sport fishing, mountain bike rental and snorkeling. There is also a tennis court. Adventure tours can be arranged at the front desk. Why not take the opportunity to explore Guancaste province or head out to Lake Arenal and the active Arenal volcano?
You can transfer by road from San Jose to the resort, or vice versa. The journey takes abiout four and a half hours. This means you can reach the resort the same day you arrive in Costa Rica, albeit late in the evening. During daytime, the transfer takes in some beautiful views of Costa Rica as you pass over mountains and through small towns. Alternatively, there are twice daily flights from San Jose to Liberia lasting 45 minutes. Ocotal Beach Resort is a twenty-five minute transfer from Liberia airport.
Price: from about £273 for 4 nights (from about £193 without diving); from about £344 for 5 nights (from about £229 without diving); from about £428 for 6 nights (from about £275 without diving); from about £536 for 7 nights (from about £336 without diving). Longer stays can be arranged. Includes: 4, 5, 6 or 7 nights room and breakfast in a Beachfront Standard Room or a Panoramic View Standard Room on a twin/share basis at Ocotal Beach Resort; 2, 3, 4 or 5 days diving (2 boat dives daily in Ocotal region, plus unlimited shore dives, dive guide on boat divers). Supplement for an additional days diving: from about £40. Airport transfers: from about £19 one way to Liberia, from about £59 one way to San Jose (rates based on 2 persons, for one person the rates are double). Deposit: £200.
Single Occupancy Supplement: from about £23 per night.
FLIGHTS: Prices from about £853 to San Jose. There are daily flight connections to San Jose. We will quote you the airfare applicable, based on routing, season, current fare levels and booking class availability. Our quote will include all taxes and fuel supplements applicable at the time of quotation, as well as our service charge. The usual airfare deposit is £300.
If you are flying between San Jose and Liberia, the airfare is from about £58 one way.
COMBINATIONS: Why not combine a visit to Ocotal with an exciting liveaboard voyage to remote and world famous Cocos Island? Or perhaps you would like to stay at a forest lodge and see Costa Rica’s famous and truly wondrous Resplendant Quetzal (a glittering green and red bird with a tail well over 1m long!) as well as many other natural delights? Talk to us about the possibilities.
Schooling Jacks (Martin Edge)
